Author Topic: Reamers  (Read 5403 times)

Offline ieezitin

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Reamers
« on: June 12, 2012, 08:14:04 PM »
What are your allowable tolerances for getting close to push a reamer in to size?

Chucking reamers what are your thoughts on advantages disadvantages?

Hand reamers, what are your allowable tolerances for getting close to push a reamer in

Anthony.
If you cant fix it, get another hobby.

Offline Lew_Merrick_PE

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Re: Reamers
« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2012, 12:06:51 PM »
Anthony,

If I understand your question properly, I would reword it as:  What pilot hole diameter should I use in reaming and how does the type of reamer (chucking vs. hand) affect that?  If that is a correct restatement of your question, then:

The diameter of the pilot hole is a proportion of the diameter of the finished, reamed hole size dependent on the material being reamed and whether or not you are driving it with a machine or by hand.  Low-shear-strength materials such as aluminum and brass my use smaller pilot holes than high-shear-strength materials such as alloy or high carbon steels (etc.).  There is also a dependency on how well made and properly sharpened your drill bits are (cheap or poorly sharpened drill bits drill a significantly oversized hole in most cases).  There is a section in the SME Manufacturing Engineer's Handbook that gives formulae for such things if you are interested in a more complicated answer.  But:

Machine Reaming:
In Aluminum and other "soft" (low-shear) materials, I use the general rule of thumb of: ø - .010/.015 (in inches) for holes that end up 5/16 inch or smaller; ø - .015/.025 for holes between 5/16 and 1/2; and ø - 1/32 for holes between 1/2 and 1.

In alloy steel and other "tough" (high-shear) materials, I use a general rule of thumb of: ø - .005/.010 (in inches) for holes that end up 1/4 or smaller; ø - .008/.012 for holes between 1/4 and 3/8; ø - .010/.016 for holes between 3/8 and 5/8; and ø - .015/.025 for holes between 5/8 and 1.

Hand Reaming:
Back in the dark ages when I actually did quite a bit of hand reaming (excluding tapered pin reamers), I tried to use about 1/2 the allowance I used when machine reaming.  I was also (A) using my hands in the shop for 6-10 hours/day and (B) a serious high-angle ice and rock climber, so I could remove quite a bit of material merely with my wrists.  I would hate to try to hand ream a ø1.000 hole today from a 63/64's pilot hole in 4130-HT steel.  I don't think my wrists are up to such a task today.

Your mileage may vary...

Offline PekkaNF

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Re: Reamers
« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2012, 02:23:11 PM »
Lew answered well.

I'll expand a little.

Most common reamers sold to a "normal consumer" here in Europe are of H7 tolerances.
http://www.precisiondormer.com/sandvik/2531/internet/USA_English/s005479.nsf/Alldocs/Product*2DPDFsVarious*2AReamingPDFs/$file/Reaming-Tolerance.pdf

If you have to use prepared material you can order reamers to accomondate pretty much any fit you like, but it will cost you some.

I find it easier to use common H7 reamer for hole and size shaft (arbour) according to fit.

Best document (in respect of layman terms!) for fits and applications, that I can come up is this:
http://web.iitd.ac.in/~achawla/public_html/201/lectures/fits.pdf

This explains some too:
http://books.google.fi/books?id=M1y4_cfXy0AC&lpg=PA69&ots=3yQ_FFCoHi&dq=h7%20reamer%20tolerance%20easy%20fit&hl=fi&pg=PA69#v=onepage&q=h7%20reamer%20tolerance%20easy%20fit&f=false

One stop site is:
http://www.wisetool.com/limit.htm#shaft

Bottom of page it has table "Chart limit and fit" where you check fit and then check the table "ISO tolerance for shafts"

But if you have to accomondate certain size shaft, then you need to consult table "for ISO tolerances for holes" to know which size reamer you need to order, if the reamer will produce correct surface roughness at the first place.

I know that many hobbyists don't use much tolerances, but least for me they give me good numerical values that I know I should aim to produce.

There used to be three flute drills that produced much nicer hole than old two flute drills. Now there are pretty good drills that can produce useful tolerances without reaming on machining centres, like
http://www.nachiamerica.com/catalog/Drills.pdf
page 9 and 21. If you can buy something like that and standard size would get you close enough it probably would work out much cheaper than having reamer grind to size.

But then again this might not be what you asked for!

Pekka
Pekka