My Lathe has stopped turning on!

[Ross]

Hi guys,

My lathe has stopped working, I pulled the gaurd up to take the workpiece out of the chuck and put it back in. I went to turn on the machine and nothing happens. No light no noise nothing!

I've check the fuses and they are intact. I've changed plugs and still nothing.

I'm thinking it's a switch problem maybe? If anyone has any ideas or a wiring diagram or anything to help that would be great.

Here is my lathe it's a CJ06 18A

[Chuck in E. TN]

Check for loose connections in the controler box. I've had the same problem in both my lathe and mill.
 
Chuck

[winklmj]

You mention it but I don't see it in teh pic, it's common for the flip-up chuck-guard that to cause that exact problem. Check or bypass the switch on that.

[Ross]

I've taken the chuck guard switch off and The mechanism inside is the problem I think.

One of the parts holding the spring seems to have snapped letting the spring run free, just fell out when I took it off. I'm going to try and fix it but I thnk a new switch will be needed,

[Troutsqueezer]

This is the reason that I removed the guard switch the very first day I owned my lathe. 

[Stilldrillin]

Ross.
I disconnected the wires inside the switch body. Then connected both into one connector.

This left things tidy, until I had the opportunity to get inside the control box, and remove the unnecessary wiring.

I'm not telling you to remove a safety feature! Only telling you what I did to remove a pain in the a-se...... 

David D

[rdhem2]

A bit late on this post but something I may know something about.  Remember boys, when a seeming electrical problem rears it's ugly head- itis 95% of the time a mechanical problem and 5% electrical.  Like the spring coming loose.  Keep that in mind while trouble shooting and you will be back to making chips sooner!     

This after 44 years as an electrician fixing "electrical" problems that mostly only existed because it had a wire connected to it.  Now I am doing while retired what I really wanted to do 44 years ago, machining and learning from you guys!   

[minerva]

Hi Ross,
A little on the late side perhaps but  take a quick look at my site under the mini lathe electrics tab.

minervasmiscellany.com

Should enable you to nail down to component level.
Regards
Terry T

[andyf]

Hi Terry,

I like the logic of your system for testing Real Bull electrics, though it might be as well to include a warning that lathes originating from Sieg may differ. That is offered as a constructive comment, rather than criticism.

Near the end, you say:
"The function of terminals 9-10  &  11-12 control connections to the daughter board  and potentiometer needs further investigation , they almost certainly  are an integral part of the switching / interlock and speed reduction when Rev is selected. As previously stated no circuit diagram is as yet available for the daughter-board  so further research is necessary."

There is a schematic of the daughter/auxillary board in the files of the Yahoo 7x12 Minilathe Group < http://groups.yahoo.com/group/7x12minilathe/ > , but you have to join to see it. However, Pat (the retired electronics engineer who drew it up) kindly allowed me to reproduce it on this webpage; it's at the bottom:
< http://andysmachines.weebly.com/variable-speed-controls.html >

Not having a Real Bull lathe myself, I haven't bothered to trace how the motor is slowed down when run in reverse, but R4 (the lonely-looking resistor at the top left) is brought into the speed control pot circuit when reverse (or forward; I'm not sure) is selected.

Though you may of course make whatever use you wish of the diagram for your research, I don't think it would be fair on Pat to reproduce it on your website. It would be better to refer folk to the 7x12 Group  or to my web page as above.

Hope this helps with your analysis of the wiring.

Andy

[modeldozer]

Hi all,

For those interested attatched is the circuit from my Einhell MTB3000, witch is in reality a real bull, as I have traced it.

Cheers
Abraham