Acrylic pens.... Easy Xmas gifts?

[Divided he ad]

Hi Guys, been a while 


I've been AWOL for quite a bit I know.... Summer is a very busy time for me and my workshop was pretty much neglected.

But with a new found want for cheep Xmas prezzies and a reason to get machining again I thought I'd have a go at some pen kits I purchased about 5 months ago. Here are a few stills out of the 300 or so I have already 


First the basic. I started with a generic Chinese pen kits that you can buy of e-blag etc. Added to that were some acrylic pen blanks and some wood blanks too..



The wooden ones mostly didn't go to plan.... I'm sticking to acrylic 

I made a rough and ready pen mandrel and an assortment of brass bushings (as needed to fit the kits I purchased)

 I then started by chucking up the square blanks in the 4jaw chuck. Roughly centred using the cutting tool and the corners of the blank.  ( roughly cause the blanks are far bigger than the final pen size). Drilling them with a long series 7mm drill bit with a long spiral for easy swarf clearance.

The blanks are then cut to slightly longer than required and the brass pen tubes are glued in using a 5min epoxy clear resin.





The resin sets to a glass like hardness quite quickly and was easier to remove any overspill that dripped into the tubes after 2 mins ish, while it was still elastic.

I squared off the blanks to the tube ends and then mounted them on the mandrel with the bit to become the tip of the pen to the left (just the way I did it)  then a spacer bushing then the other blank, a spacer bushing and then a nut to hold it all there tight for turning.

First pen was an experiment and was made to basic "just turn it all down and press it together" spec.










With that under my belt I started getting a little adventurous..... 








And more adventurous....










I ran into a but of a niggle with squaring the blanks off after gluing.  I had changed the chucks back over to use the mandrel and found it annoying changing back to the the 4 jaw in order to square the blanks.
So I made a little rough and ready arbour ( I was rushing to make more pens so no slitting saw was employed... Rough but functional)

First, I turned the mandrel/arbour to size (6.3mm - 1/4")  Then I turned away the centre section to make it easier to mount the blanks. Drilled and tapped using only the starter tap to make a tapered thread inside the tip.



As said, Rough and ready... Terrible hacksaw cross cut      Screwing in a grub screw forces the 4 sections apart due to the tapered thread created using only the tip of the number 1 tap.



I can now mount blanks quickly in the 3 jaw and square them off.




This is my first week or so's efforts... I have 20+ done now! All sorts of different sized and types are starting to enter the collection. Some would say I'm becoming obsessed 






That's all for now.... I may post some pic's of the others when I get around to transferring them from my phone





Ralph.



Oh, BTW  I'm using the super sharp carbide inserts for aluminium to do the turning. Razor sharp and cuts this stuff like butter 

[millwright]

I can see those being very popular Ralph, was expecting them to light up as well. whats the best way to get tthe machining marks out of acrylic, Ive used  fine scotchbrite pads soaked in WD40 followed by a soft cloth and WD. it can be slow though depending on the surface finish. A Nice looking job well done 
John

[AussieJimG]

Great idea and very timely. Might even have time before (this) Xmas.

And good tutorial - I needed that.

Jim

[mattinker]

I've used Brasso  or Mirror metal polish with good results on perspex. It's actually a very fine abrasive paste. Could be used on scotch bright and then with a rag.

Regards, Matthew

[DaveH]

Very nice Ralph,  .
I am however deeply hurt " How to hold square bar in a 3 jaw Chuck"  Here is another way    http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,6581.msg70137.html#msg70137

I did that post specially for you Ralph ........... I just knew you were going to do some pens ........... one day 
 
DaveH

[wongster]

Another job well done!!!

Do you just play with the dial on the cross slide to to create the curves?

Wong

[Brass_Machine]

Hiya Ralph!!

Glad to see you pop in!  That is a great idea for a gift. I have thought about your key ring torch too (Along with the GID fob) as gifts. You have some good ideas and a good eye.

Eric

[Divided he ad]

Hi Guys, Glad you like them 

I'll try and answer these best I can without pic's to back it up.... I haven't taken any action shots or videos yet.


John,
After stepping out the basic shape I use files where possible to remove the bulk of the material. then step down through grades of emery tape and wet and dry (all dipped in water... Keeps the heat down and stops you burning the acrylic) from 100, 280,400and 600 grits.

Then again with the 600 with some brass polish added to the water. Then final cutting using this "micromesh" stuff in 3600, 8000 and finally 12000 grits. All wet and with a few dots of the brass polish added.

Remove residue between grits with a soft cloth and use a clean soft cloth for a final buff. Not sure if this is a prescribed method. But it works for me.

(Of course making sure the lathe bed is very well oiled before and after due to the use of water)


Jim,
 Give it a go.... Just remember razor sharp tooling and easy cuts (1-2mm)  I tried a larger cut under power and stopped the lathe... .Just before a huge chunk flew off and clacked me under the chin     I'll find the pic's to show the screw up and the recovery job!



Matthew,
Sounds similar to my methods... These brass polishes work on all metals and plastics it seams. Does stainless a treat 



Dave,
I remember this method. But there is an issue with these blanks. They are far from uniform! Some "16mm" square blanks are 16x18mm! The same issue with the 20mm ones. So 4 jaw is the only way to get reasonably accurate centre holes.

Nice post though 



Wong,
Yep. Just playing with the dials. I use the main carriage and cross slide wheels (rarely use the compound myself).

Some of the cuts are done with a powerd cut in the Z axis and turning the cross slide handwheel  five, one quarter turns in and 5 back out. Some times slow count some times fast. Some times a much higher count. it gives me some interesting stepped curves to smooth out 

Howdy Eric   

Figured it was about time I joined in again   
I needed a new Xmas gift idea.... Any more keyrings (fobs) and my family and friends would start developing funny walks with all that brass in their pockets! 
No idea what to do next year though!! 




I'll post some more pic's tomorrow of the "incident"  described above and some of the new (jumbo) editions I have recently completed.







Ralph.

[vtsteam]

Those are pretty wild, Ralph! Thanks for explaining how you did that profiling and polishing. I'd never heard of 12000 grit before. Lots new to learn. 

[Pete49]

VT the micro mesh is usually found at places that sell pen parts or woodwork stores. For those that have wives with Avon products snaffle their cattle dog and look under nail stuff (her terminology) nice gear there and been using it for years on wood and acrylic pens.
As for acrylic I don't use it much now as there are many available in shops and I prefer the wide variety of woods available world wide at reasonable costs. Fruit woods are nice as well as some of our native trees which lose a limb now and again (pruning saw is handy). I have also found the fumes to be harmful from acrylic blanks....it sets of my wife's asthma every time.
Pete

[Divided he ad]

Evening folks,

As promised I've got a few pic's of the "incident"

I was making the second of the Jumbo pencil kits I purchased and got a little excited and put a cut at a higher feed than should have... It  simply was too much for the lathe to take.

Started off with this...



And rapidly turned into this....



This simply would not do!
I had seen some "deluxe" versions of these with chromed domed tops. I had no chromed domes so Stainless steel would have to do...

I cleaned up the breakage.


Made a cap like this one.


Saved 


This is now my finishing method for the cheaper pencil kits. I have made a deluxe version Chrome dome with a clip)  and a "mini" gold plated version of these too, it's 10mm shorter in length and has a 3mm lead instead or a 5.8mm lead.



My pencils so far...



Oh and showing off a few more pens While I'm at it...   

A teachers pen - red one end black the other.


And some stubby pens...








 
If anyone else makes pens could you post a few pics?



Ralph.

[AussieJimG]

Flash as a rat with a gold tooth!

Jim

[Brass_Machine]

I am seriously considering doing this in about 4 weeks. Would make great gifts for co-workers.

[Pete49]

OK here are a few from my collection. The only 2 acrylic are the bright yellow and the bright blue pens. The blue is made from cut offs and a piece of stone which are also the other grey pens. The stone (from West Aust) I can't remember the name of it but its softish   . All the rest are timber, mostly Australian wood with a piece ebony (black pen) cocobolo and amboyna thrown in.
The roller ball and fountain pen set is Tasmanian blackheart sassafras.  The reddish orange is a desert timber from the NT called conkaberry. Anyhoo enough dribbling I'll let the pics say it for me.
Pete

[Divided he ad]

That's some very nice looking pens there Pete   

Stone sounds interesting! I'd have thought you'd need carbide or diamond tipped tooling for stone.
Looks like it polishes up really well though 

Do you turn these on a wood lathe?

You have some of the more expensive kits there and interesting colours of wood.......  Not that I could tell you which is what colour! But I can see they are different and have nice patterns in them.

Are the kits expensive over there? Some cost a fortune here!






Thanks for posting the pic's.


Ralph.

[DaveH]

Ralph,

I wouldn't mind having a go at this. I think I will stick to acrylic to start with.
When you say kits - what do I get in a kit, or more importantly what should I get in a kit.
 
DaveH

[Pete49]

Thanks for the compliment Ralph. I'll see if I can find the name of the stone. Here's a link to one of the suppliers I use and the prices.
http://www.cws.au.com/..... DaveH follow the link and you can see what's in the kits, some more than others.....basically 2 tubes, the ends and clip and a refill. There are also plenty places in the States that supply some really exotic blanks and parts like laser cut piano keyboard blanks,flags, snake and cane toad skins even a circuit board pen blank. Some pen turners even use metal to make some great looking pens.
I have even made a pens from 308 cartridges from the target crowd. Nearly all my pens are made on a mini wood lathe similar to the jet mini but I have used the metal lathe on some like the brass pen I made for a friend . Imagination is good
Pete

[Divided he ad]

"Imagination is good "  indeed it is Pete   


 Exactly as Pete says Dave. The kits are available from a lot of places. I spent hours searching out the sites with the best value for money.  Also shown in the 6th picture down in the first post.

I get some pens from one site and pencils from another etc.... The difference can be over a pound per kit! this means you could almost get 2 for 1 by shopping right!

Pete, I went to have a look through the site.... On comparison using a currency converter it's quite expensive over there! Eg, workshop pencils on there 6.80GBP here 4.50GBP.

It does have more things available that some of my sites though.... I must search more 

Thought I might have a go at a metal pencil..... But it'd be one for me. Thinking a heavy pencil for the workshop? Too many others to do first though 




Good luck with your projects Dave. Just do what feels right I say 





Ralph. 

[Deko]

Hi Folks,
             I was lucky enough to hold a few of Ralph's pens a few weeks ago, and I can tell you they are

really great.  We are due to start making some at "men in sheds" on Monday and I can only hope that

they come out as good as Ralph's.

Cheers Dek 

P.S.  looks like you made it home OK Ralph. Hope the repairs were not TOO expensive !!!!!

[DaveH]

Thank you  Pete and Ralph 

I will have a good look around.
 
DaveH

[Divided he ad]

Hi Dek,

Yeah, overheated at Oulton park and finally found the leak   

Quick roadside repair, got home and ordered new parts..... Just waiting for the after effects to show themselves!



Good luck with the pens on Monday 






Ralph.

[Pete49]

yep Ralph we get ripped a lot but then our wages are high according to some. Mine workers get around $100k a year in the lower grades and a friends son was getting 5k a week as a tradie but things are slowing down poor bugger is only on 3k week now. This is for 12hrs on 12hrs off 2 weeks straight 1 week day shift 1 week nights then 5 days off. Also get ripped of by importers because of our low population. In some ways I would like to live in the northern but I like the weather here very rare to get 13 degree winter days where I live though summer temps regularly hit 40C and above and I don't like crowds so I guess I'm stuck here
The stone stuff is cut with HSS lathe tools and don't blunt them much at all.  YAY found it  It is a form of talc called steatite.
Pete

[ddoyle]

OH GOD!!!! Not another hobby for me..... LOL...these are absolutely amazing.

[Divided he ad]

Hi,

Happy you like them   

Oddly I've spent the last 3 hours scouring websites for more kits and blanks at the best prices.... only found 297 pounds worth of bits I want 

Better get the ones I have made up and swapped for spendy tokens rapid..... Need funds to sport my habit 



Fun and quite quick to make though 





Ralph.

[ddoyle]

I haven't made one yet...but I have a couple kits on the way....Hoping for the best....but not expecting it .  What do you use for finish on your wooden pens?