MadModder
The Shop => Tools => Topic started by: Rob.Wilson on September 20, 2011, 03:49:28 PM
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Hi Lads
Thought i would start yet another project .. like i don't have enough on the go :lol: :lol: .After using the Denford CNC mill for a wile and starting to get to grips with this CNC lark ,, i found the mill was getting a bit limited ,, cracking machine just a tad small for my needs ,,, The machine i really wanted is way way out of my price rang for possibly the next century :lol: ,, so i decided to sell off the Denford and other spares i had to fund this project :med: , dont you just love Ebay :D anyway enough drivel .
Some of the hardware arrived a week ago ,, 25mm 5 mm/P ballscrews and nuts , three 12Nm steppers , couple of couplings , two breakout boards and a pendant .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030816.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030820.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030821.jpg)
The Drives and PSU should be here this week ,,,,,,,,,,,, i hope !
So i thought i would pull the table and compound ways of the mill and try a ballscrew for size.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030807.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030809.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030810.jpg)
Not allot of room ::) ,,,,,, a bit of machining required me thinks ,,,,,, i set the table and slide up on the surface plate to check that the outer face was parallel with the ways ,,,,, turned out to be not to shabby.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030811.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030812.jpg)
I used this face to clock the job in on the mill so that the section i machine out will be square to the table ways .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030814.jpg)
Milled out the area for the nut mounting plate .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030817.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030819.jpg)
Rob
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Hi Rob. :wave:
Well, that's me clocked in! :thumbup:
Never got much much of an opinion on these CNC conversions...... So I'll be watching, quietly.(http://freesmileyface.net/smiley/winks/mini-wink-glasses.gif) (http://freesmileyface.net/free-winks-smileys.html)
Good luck with it!
David D
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The 626 is the mill I want... When I get the room and the cash. So I will be watching!
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Off to a great start Rob :thumbup: :thumbup:
No turning back now :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
John
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12nM ?
That's a bit overkill isn't it.
Problem with these big motors is they have that much detent torque to overcome it takes a while to accelerate to speed and you will find the larger motors are a 'lot' slower than a smaller motor that can get up to speed easier.
John S.
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12nM ?
That's a bit overkill isn't it.
Problem with these big motors is they have that much detent torque to overcome it takes a while to accelerate to speed and you will find the larger motors are a 'lot' slower than a smaller motor that can get up to speed easier.
John S.
Hi John
overkill just a bit :lol: :lol: :lol:
I had taken into consideration that the large motors will be slower to accelerate due to rotor mass etc i am after more grunt than speed :med: , and at 12Nm i can drive the X,Y screws directly if i decide to go that way .
Rob
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Another one watching this thread with great interest.
When I did my cnc conversion I would have given my 2 front teeth to have access to another mill to modify the X2 parts to accept the ballscrew hardware.
Looks like you are off to a good start there :thumbup:
Tim
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Hi Rob
OK, that's me lost the plot .... :loco:
Let me get this straight ..
You take the mill to bits ....
Then set it up on the mill to machine it ???
How many mills does that make ???
Has Tim cracked it ???
Or summat else ???
BC
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Of to a great start. :thumbup:
Will also be following quietly.
:beer:
Abraham
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Man, you must have found out how to take advantage of the 25th hour of the day. That looks like a big project to undertake, but you seem up to the challenge.
Might I ask where you got the pendant/jog wheel? I've looked for one of these on and off without success. Maybe I haven't been using the right search terms?
-Sparky
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Interesting project Rob, I keep thinking I'll have to fit a small CNC mill in someware.
I'll be keeping an eye on this
:nrocks:
Stew0
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Nobady can say that you ara lazy Rob.... :lol:
Good luck :D
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Nobody can say that you are lazy Rob.... :lol:
Good luck :D
He's lazy....................
John S.
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very :jaw: :jaw:
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Cheers lads :headbang:,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, and John S :coffee: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Dave BC ,,,,,,,, something like that :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Might I ask where you got the pendant/jog wheel? I've looked for one of these on and off without success. Maybe I haven't been using the right search terms?
-Sparky
Hi there Sparky ,,,,,,,,,,, Bought the pendant from here http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=233 ,, photo is a bit naff on the web site ,, and the wiring instructions are in Chinglish :zap:
You into CNC ?
Rob
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Hi there Sparky ,,,,,,,,,,, Bought the pendant from here http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=233 ,, photo is a bit naff on the web site ,, and the wiring instructions are in Chinglish :zap:
You into CNC ?
Rob
Thanks for the info, Rob. Yes, definitely into CNC though not quite as much as I used to be. My final project in school (going back a few years now) was to retrofit a mill for CNC. I scratch-built the driver boards based on the Allegro A3977 (if memory serves) and home fabricated pretty much everything except the steppers.
I don't use the machine under CNC much anymore though mostly because of the extreme amount of backlash that caused me many broken end mills. Eventually I'd like to put ballscrews in there, or simply upgrade to a bigger/better machine. I've been holding off until I have more space/money. :)
I have access to a myriad of CNC equipment where I work, but those machines are usually too busy paying for themselves to be used for personal projects.
I'm interested in what you're doing here because it looks very much like the sort of thing I'd like to do "when I get around to it".
-Sparky
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Hi Lads
Made a few more chips today ,,,,, machined up a block of steel for the nut carrier .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030857.jpg)
after getting a wiz over with the shaper to make the job nice and square ,the block was ground up to be a snug fit in the compound slide
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030864.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030868.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030870.jpg)
A bit more shaper action :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030874.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030875.jpg)
i do like the good finish you get with these old machines :D
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030876.jpg)
still a tad tight in places , the underside of the bed is all shapes ::)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030877.jpg)
Rob
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Nice work Rob. :clap:
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:bow: :bow: :bow:
Looking great Rob
John
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A nice lump of engineering there, Rob! :thumbup:
David D
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A nice lump of engineering there, Rob! :thumbup:
David D
Isn't it just eh ???? :thumbup:
Seems a lot of engineering to carry his nuts though... :scratch:
Mine come from Sainsburys in a little bag ...
BC
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No wonder Newcastle is sinking into the North sea.............................................
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Cheers for looking in lads :beer: :)
Dave its a big nut :lol: :lol: :lol:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: its a bit lighter now i have poked a few holes in it John :lol: :lol: :lol:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030878.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030881.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030882.jpg)
Rob
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I dont think that will flex much :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
Propper job :bow: :bow: :bow:
John
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You have bought a RH leadscrew, they should be LH on a 636 :doh:
John S.
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You have bought a RH leadscrew, they should be LH on a 636 :doh:
John S.
BUGGER :doh:
Rob :lol: :lol:
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John you should no better :wack:....It's CNC so does not matter, just tell the motor to go the other way :loco:
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John you should no better :wack:....It's CNC so does not matter, just tell the motor to go the other way :loco:
Fun, while it lasted though....... :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Just hope Rob speaks Chinese so he can tell it to do so :lol:
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Just hope Rob speaks Chinese so he can tell it to do so :lol:
Looking at the pendant manual now Swarfing ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, QUOTE " The angle encoder of axle of photoelectricity belongs to the instument of high accuarcy, forbid beating and beating colliding at the time of installation, installation or unwise use of performance and life-span that will infuence the encoder "
not a problem sounds just like Geordie ,,,,,,,,, dont whack with hammer :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
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LOL! :lol:
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No if it was Geordie it would read WHACK with hammer..............
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No if it was Geordie it would read WHACK with hammer..............
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: true
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Rob,
Following you closely, got all the main castings of a new Myford VM-B from the Myford sale, missing motor, spindle, pulleys and all the respective drive gubbings but the main castings are complete, tatty but brand new.
Looks like it's been robbed for spares. Having a measure up at the moment for ballscrews. The rest is all on stock, power supply, drivers, motors etc.
Still got to decide what to do over a spindle. I want it for one job only, drilling division plates so max drill size will be 4mm max. Might use an outrunner motor driving an ER 16 extended collet chuck via belts but know sod all about these are what they need to run.
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Hi John
I would not follow too closely ,,,,, you may fall into a hole with me :doh: :lol: :lol: :lol:
You going to mass produce your division plates :dremel: ,,,,,,,, " outrunner motor " ,,,, new one on me :scratch:
still thinking about the spindle in my mill ,,,,,,,, needs to be a bit more zippy ... somewhere up around the 5000 rpm range .... :zap:
Rob
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Hi Rob,
Interesting build as usuall. How's things going?
How about a spindle speeder? Hemingway kits sell a kit for one.
Pete
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Hi Rob,
Interesting build as usuall. How's things going?
How about a spindle speeder? Hemingway kits sell a kit for one.
Pete
Hi Pete :thumbup:
Things are going slowly at the moment ,,,, cant get my brain cell to work :lol: :lol: :lol: Cheers i will have a look at the Hemingway kit :dremel:
Hope your doing well :beer:
Rob
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:beer: Things are..........ok, Somewhere I've got the Hemingway kit stashed away. It looks good, But going by memory it's set up with a single 6 mm hole in the spindle for tooling. After I'd scanned thru the plans I thought it would be far more versitile if the spindle working end was redesigned to use one of the smaller series of ER collets.
Pete
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....How about a spindle speeder? Hemingway kits sell a kit for one.....
....After I'd scanned thru the plans I thought it would be far more versitile if the spindle working end was redesigned to use one of the smaller series of ER collets....
I had a look at that kit a couple of years ago and was a little concerned about the provision of bearings, even without adding anything extra like an ER collet, - I seem to recall that at least one of the shafts only had a bearing at the top or at the bottom. Also, from memory, the output direction was reversed, so when in use under CNC you'll have to make sure that your CAM transposes M04 and M03 when the speeder is deployed ....
My impression was that it might be appropriate for light horological work, but not for long CNC runs.
In my case, I opted to add a Kress 1050 as a secondary high-speed spindle.
Dave
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Cheers Dave ,,,,,,for the heads up :thumbup:
Well being under the weather today STILL ,, due to a self inflicted injury :beer: ,, i thought i would have doodle with the ye olde CAD and see what i could come up with for mounting the ballscrew ends .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_ballscrew%202.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_ballscrew%201.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_ballscrew%20section%202_SLDPRT.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_ballscrew_SLDPRT.jpg)
something like that
Rob
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It's not a good design, in fact it's very flawed.
One it reverses rotation, secondly no top support bearing and it only uses one planet wheel so it's trying to force the top of the spindle out of mesh and the missing bearing helps.
Using the same components and one extra planet redesigned it can be made to go the same way and have a 4:1 increase instead of the 3:1 of the original.
Original design.
(http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk/files/speed%20increaser.jpg)
Improved design using same parts but two planets
(http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk/files/speed%20head2.jpg)
Four bearings for stability and can use an off the shelf collet chuck as the output shaft.
John S.
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Very interesting John :thumbup: the redesign looks a big improvement on the original and making one would save the work of modifying the original head :dremel:
Rob
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Rob,
Seriously look at using Oldham couplings, those jaw type couplings are often used but they cannot handle any misalignment in two planes.
In fact any misalignment is only handled by imposing sideways forces.
(http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk/files/x3xaxis.jpg)
That square alloy block contains two angular contact bearings, the preload nut and the coupling, can't get much neater than that?
John S.
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Hi John
Now that is a very compacted design :thumbup:
I was planning on boring the motor joining piece to key snugly over the flange shown in the drawing , the other end will be bored for the motor ,, if you get my drift .
Do have a question ,,, do you think i should key the coupling to the ballscrew ?
Rob
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John,
Much thanks for the redesign, Now why didn't I ask about Hemingways design before I bought it? :doh:
Pete
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Rob,
Really very nice :thumbup: :thumbup: :clap: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
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Rob,
Do away with the bearing retaining nut.
Two bearings followed by the first half of the Oldham coupling, clamp type, which is threaded to suit the ball screw.
Drill and tap on the non split part for a grub screw and brass pad for a belt and braces approach.
Ball screw only need enough machined for the bearings to sit and the Oldham coupling to screw and clamp on. Nice compact job.
John S.
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Rob,
Do away with the bearing retaining nut.
Two bearings followed by the first half of the Oldham coupling, clamp type, which is threaded to suit the ball screw.
Drill and tap on the non split part for a grub screw and brass pad for a belt and braces approach.
Ball screw only need enough machined for the bearings to sit and the Oldham coupling to screw and clamp on. Nice compact job.
John S.
I have been wondering how you got it so compact ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, smart arse :med: :thumbup:
Already machined two screws :coffee:
Rob
Cheers Dave H :beer:
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Already machined two screws :coffee:
Rob
No probs, just saw the parallel bit off that the crap lovejoy coupling was going to fit on, tap the Oldham same size as the thread on the screw.
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Rob,
Do away with the bearing retaining nut.
Two bearings followed by the first half of the Oldham coupling, clamp type, which is threaded to suit the ball screw.
Drill and tap on the non split part for a grub screw and brass pad for a belt and braces approach.
Ball screw only need enough machined for the bearings to sit and the Oldham coupling to screw and clamp on. Nice compact job.
John S.
John... You have a picture of this? Having a hard time visualizing it... :smart:
Eric
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I really do think this a bad idea? having the coupling fixed with a grub screw allows something to give when a lockup happens. Threading this coupling on will allow something more expensive to crap out, 5p grub screw verses £100 ballscrew?
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I really do think this a bad idea? having the coupling fixed with a grub screw allows something to give when a lockup happens. Threading this coupling on will allow something more expensive to crap out, 5p grub screw verses £100 ballscrew?
Not so, I have driven plenty of screws hard onto stops, all that happens is the motor stalls.
Only machine I had a problem with was my big CNC when I had a job over hanging the back of the table, big set of V twin flywheels. because the flywheels hit the casting before it was anywhere near the limits it sheared the flexible element inside the Oldham coupling.
Never had any of the smaller machines shear a coupling element.
Another reason I like Oldham couplings, if the element goes it looses drive, if a Lovejoy smashes the flexible coupling the metal parts will still drive.
John S.
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See what you are saying, my brain is quite dead tonight so agree whole heartedly :doh:
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Little know fact is the Oldham coupling was invented by an Irishman called John Oldham to get by a problem they had with paddle steamers.
if they hit a submerged log the force was enough to break a drive shaft or paddle which meant the steamer was out of action for quite a while.
By fitting an Oldham coupling with iron or steel sides and a wooden element when they hit a log it sheared the coupling and all they had to do was slide one coupling to one side, insert a new disk and reset the coupling.
So next time you cram the table onto the stops remember to throw a lifebelt after it. :lol:
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Good bit of trivia John :med:
the Oldham coupling was also used on some models of traction engines , Tasker ,Fowler .
Rob
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A wee bit more progress :zap:
I had a lump of 1/4 thick ally plate 18 x24 lying round the shop , that i had taken out of some machine somewhere back in time thinking it would come in handy some day :med: , just the job to mount the drivers, PSU's and breakout boards too :dremel: space left for fourth axis (one day )
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040007.jpg)
Still a bit more wiring to do ,,,,I now have the motor i am using to test spinning after lots of arse scratching ,, the manuals leave ALLOT to the imagination , breakout board settings for mach3 that are in the manual dont work and missing driver info :coffee:
Rob
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Looks great rob
All you need now is a
BIG START BUTTON
:bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
then it will be making bits :D :D :D :D :D
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Hi Rob
I've been watching your inspirational project
if you have not solved the Mach 3 settings for the board
what info do you have for the breakout board?
a table showing the function of the printer port pins ?
John
PS is this any help ?
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Hi Rob
I've been watching your inspirational project
if you have not solved the Mach 3 settings for the board
what info do you have for the breakout board?
a table showing the function of the printer port pins ?
John
PS is this any help ?
Hi John :wave:
I have sorted the first breakout board inputs and out puts ,, and all configured in Mach3 ,, Estop,Home switches and all motor spin .
Its the second breakout board (the one in the photo with nowt plugged into it ) inputs and out puts for the hand controller ,,, i have the same drawing as you witch shows the connections to the 15 pin plug ,,,, but what pins do they correspond to on the 25 pin plug :scratch: ,,,,, first i need to fined out what pins are inputs and outputs on a second PP card .
Chers Rob
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Hi Rob
what are the two large IC's ? I expect the 3 others are 74LS14 hex inverters (can buffer 18 signals )
just looking at the table I'd expect the step and direction siglals from the computer and hand control are OR'ed together in pairs
step and direction signals
PC remote
25w = 15w
2 = 6
3 = 13
4 = 1
5 = 3
6 = 11
7 = 4
8 = 12
14 = 7
18 = 5
17 = 2
25w pin1 = enable for all motors ? 15w pins 8 , 14 ,15 could enable the motors , or may be one enable the spindle ?
25w pin 9 =spindle relay could be 15w pin 8 , 14 or 15 if remote can switch the relay ?
I guess one possibility is the enable signals from the remote could be pin 8 = printer port pin 1 = motor enable
remote pin 14 switch control to the remote control and pin 15 enable = switch on the spindle
John
PS do you have a link to the remote controle you have ?
its possible the breakout boards are for the simple hand control used with the TB6560 boards
and are not correct for your remote control
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HI John
Now that sounds logical ,,, just need to test it,,,, any ideas :scratch: ,,,,,,,,,,,the two larger chips are 74HC244D .....three smaller ones are 74HC14D hard to read ,, me thinks i need specs :lol: :lol:
couple of photos of hand control
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040010.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040009.JPG)
way way to many wires sprouting from it for my liking :lol: :lol:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040012.JPG)
Rob
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Hi Rob
if you power the manual pulse generator from a usb port ,
you may be able to connect the switches directly to the second printer port ,with pins 2 to 9 programmed as inputs
(or via a 56 ohm resistor, this would limit the current if your switch grounds a pin that is an output at +5V !!)
better still another breakout board using two 74hc245 octal buffers that can be switched to give you more inputs on pins 2 to 9
you need to set up mach 3 to use the A & B manual pulse generator outputs ,pins 3 & 4 (or inverted A & B outputs, pins 2 & 5 )
the switches need to go to input signal pins programmed as OEM trigger (I think ,now I've downloaded the mach 3 manual ! )
not sure what voltage the LED indicator is for , the resistor value is not readable in your diagram
I think I'd connect the E STOP button in series with another lowvoltage STOP switch on the machine and not use it via the printer port
John
just had a look at the limited info for the TB6560 boards and on the 15w D type connector they have used
pin 14 for GND and pin 15 for +5v
link -- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handle-Controller-FR-TB6560-5-Axis-Stepper-Motor-Driver-/220859461910?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D3567783428599467203
the long white connectors on you breakout board is for this type of display -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320762884378?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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Hi John
Cheers for the wiring diagram :beer: ,,,,,,, I was planning on using P9 5V and P10 G on the 15pin connector on the second BOB to run the MPG , do you think that would work ?
Yes your correct the switches need to be configured in Mach3 ,,,,, i have a list of OEM codes that Mach uses for external switches.
Looking at the board all the 25pin connections have a 56 ohm resistor fitted to them already :thumbup:
Cheers Rob
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Hi Rob
the only picture of your breakout boards I've found is an advert for the TB6560 boards
I'm not convinced it will let you use printer port pins 2 to 9 as an input into the PC
but the 15 way D type connector does have a +5v supply for the simple "blue"control sold for the boards
I'll see if I can find out which pin
for you initial test just connect the switches to see if the breakout board will let the PC detect the switches
and not the manual pulse generator
John
PS --- just looked at the limited info for the 15 w D type connector as used on the TB6560 boards and they have used
pin 14 for GND and pin 15 for the +5v to the "blue" remote control
link -- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handle-Controller-FR-TB6560-5-Axis-Stepper-Motor-Driver-/220859461910?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336c3ff116
the long white connector on your breakout board is for a display like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320762884378?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649link --
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:doh: well the second breakout board is no good for the job at hand :coffee: no connection's between the 15 and 25 plugs :doh:
so i need a plan B :med: ,,,,,,,, So i rigged the hand control up to the inputs i had left on the two BOB,s just to test some set-ups.
boring video , really crappy camera work
Rob
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Hi Rob
just an initial idea for a DIY breakout board using two 74HTC245 IC's and vero board
the 56 ohm resistors are optional
so I've not found somewhere that sell an old style of D-Type connector that is ideal for use on veroboard
the 25 way plug will only need one wire to GND with pin2 1 to 13 connected directly to the board
but the 15 way D-type will need 6 wires for pins 9 to 15
John
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Hi Rob
just an initial idea for a DIY breakout board using two 74HTC245 IC's and vero board
the 56 ohm resistors are optional
so I've not found somewhere that sell an old style of D-Type connector that is ideal for use on veroboard
John
Like these ??? Or not the same/similar ???
http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Right-angle-39-D-39-connectors-63708
BC
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Hi Dave BC
for a printed circuit board the connectors from rapid are OK
but the ones in my picture are better for veroboard
because you can bend the long pins from the top row to fit the 0.1" grid
the solder tag version is the alternative I'm likely use ?
John
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Cheers John ,,,,,,,,, Now that looks like a great plan B :thumbup:
Cheers Dave ,,,,, looks like i better setup an account with Rapid :headbang:
Just an idea ,, i could have the 25 pin on a lead and fix it so it comes through the side of the enclosures :zap:, it would make it easier to hook the computer up .
Cheers lads Rob :)
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Hi John
What are the two capacitor values ? ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, is it better to have the resistors ?
Rob
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Hi Rob
sorry its a bit too small on the diagram but any thing around 0.1uF will do
If you use ribbon cable you can place both connectors on the side of the enclosure
IDC D-types and IC headers could make the connections easier
how are you going to use the stop switch ?
John
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Hi John
cracking diagram :headbang: just printed it off .
I think i have a header cable some were , plan gets better .
the E stop i will connect across to the first BOB E stop pins .
Just need to fined some 74HCT245 chips ,,,,,,, was hoping maplins would have them ,,,,,but they dont :(
Rob
-
Rob,
RS have them 156-9803
Check your email.
-
Just need to fined some 74HCT245 chips ,,,,,,, was hoping maplins would have them ,,,,,but they dont :(
Rob
MAPLINS .... ??? ::) :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Did you check Tesco's while you were fantasising ???
I only have 17, but they are 74HC245's ...
Want some ???
BC
-
Hi Rob ,
the circuit can be rearranged to use the 74HC541 that maplin have cat no UB93B but it looks like you have to order it
John
-
Cheers John S ,,,,,,, i will call in tomorrow :thumbup:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: i new that would make you laugh Dave ,,,,,, will let you no ,,,, see how i get on at RS .
Hi John ,,,,, made a note of that part number too :thumbup:
I would like to have ago at making it at the (tomorrow night) weekend ,,, have board , found plugs,,and chip mounts ,,,,,,JUST NEED CHIPS :zap:
Rob
-
Hi Rob,
now I've had a look at the data for the 74245 and 74541 , the new revised the layout can be use with either IC
assuming the D type connectors are connected via a ribbon cable
note when pin 1 is connected to 0V the input and output pins are on opposite sides ! (74541 o/p pins 11 to 18 , 74245 o/p pins 2 to 9 )
pin 1 on the 74245 controls the direction of data flow
and at +5v the data in and out will match that of the 74541
as before the 56 ohm resistors are optional
just a thought ,the break out board you have could be used
if you make a cable / adaptor ,connecting the manual control to the breakout boards 25Way connector
and wire a 25way D-type to the 5 pairs of step and direction terminals to connect to the printer port
John
PS - without a copy of the manual I am not sure if an enable input needs connecting to GND , assuming open circuit = logic 1 ?
-
Wow John ,,,,, you have been busy :thumbup:
I have already started on BOB 1.0 :dremel: just needs soldering .
just a thought ,the break out board you have could be used
if you make a cable / adaptor ,connecting the manual control to the breakout boards 25Way connector
and wire a 25way D-type to the 5 pairs of step and direction terminals to connect to the printer port
I would rather keep that as a spare ,,,,,, more fun building your design :)
PS - without a copy of the manual I am not sure if an enable input needs connecting to GND , assuming open circuit = logic 1 ?
Its only one page ,,, mostly chinglish :lol: ,,,,,,,I had it connected to ground , What i can tell you is when the enable button is pressed the selected pin in Mach goes High and stays High , only goes Low when another pin is selected and enable is pressed ,, any help ?
i will scan handheld sheet :thumbup:
Thanks Rob
-
Hi Lads
Not allot done today ,,, soldered the parts to the board as per Johns diagram :med: ,, although i did move the E stop to the other side of the board so i can just link it straight across to the first BOB E stop input .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040025.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040024.jpg)
Hopefully i should get time to pick up the chips tomorrow :zap: ,,,,, i also still have the leads to solder to the board .
Rob
-
Hi Rob
thats looking great
for now you can check you have +5v on pin 20
and 0v on pins 1,10 & 19
as soon as you receive the IC's you can test the board
with the notched end of the ICs nearest to the other breakout board
you will find all the remaining pins at +5v until the control switches or MPG
connects a pin to 0v (GND)
John
-
Cheers John :thumbup:
for now you can check you have +5v on pin 20
and 0v on pins 1,10 & 19
Got Those voltages at those pins :thumbup:
as soon as you receive the IC's you can test the board
with the notched end of the ICs nearest to the other breakout board
you will find all the remaining pins at +5v until the control switches or MPG
connects a pin to 0v (GND)
Installed chips ,,,,,, dont have +5v on the other pins :scratch: ,,,,,,,, all pins on the left side of chips at 0v ,,,,,, nothing on the Right side
Rob
-
Hi Rob
just had a look at your pictures and it looks OK ,should of worked
double check the ICs are in the right way up --- see the diagram
with nothing on either the input or output pins
its as if the level on the output enable pin 19 is wrong
and the i/o pins are high impedance ,but it says in the data its active low
easy way to prove the enable input is correct , unplug the IC and put it back in with pin 19 bent out to miss the socket ,
if the ic now works the connection is wrong
an unconnected TTL IC input should count as a logic one
I'll have a look to see if I have an IC to prove the circuit
John
-
Hi John
Did that ,,,,,, and with pin 19 out ,,,, there is nothing on both sides of the pins :scratch: .
Rob
-
Hi Rob ,
I've found an IC on an old board and de-soldered the DM74LS245N
connecting pins 1 , 10 and 19 together to 0v
and pin 20 to +5v with a few wires dead bug style
this is what I measured from pin 10 (0v / GND)
pin 20 = 5.08v (positive supply pin)
input pins 11 to 18 = 2.5v ( pin not connected to any thing)
output pins 2 to 9 = 4.85v
connecting an input to 0v , the corresponding output =0.1v
so it works as expected
whats RS part number of your IC's ?
John
-
hi John
RS p# 156-9803
good too here you got yours working :thumbup:
Rob
-
You have soldered the chips in and not MiG welded them haven't you ? :poke:
John S.
-
Hi John
Did that ,,,,,, and with pin 19 out ,,,, there is nothing on both sides of the pins :scratch: .
Rob
Rob,
Maybe I can hazard an O/T guess why you can't find any voltage - in this picture you showed us the electrickery to consume the power, and the igniter - but there's no sign of the steam plant or dynamo to generate the power?
Dave ::)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040007.jpg)
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: John S ,,,,,,, thats were i went wrong :doh:
Dam its needs electrickery :hammer: Dave ,,,,,,,, bit short on that up north :lol: :lol: :lol:
Well looks like it my fault ,,,,,,,, nowt wrong with the chips wired them up on a bread board ,,,,,, and they work :coffee: just as John said it would :med:
Rob
-
Hi Rob ,
I am sure your board is correctly wired
the only thing I can think of is the HCT version being a CMOS device , needs the input pins connecting to +5v via a resistor
unlike earlier devices like the 74LS245 version I've tested
you can prove this by connecting one inputs of a 74hct245 to +5v (with pin 19 back into the socket !)
if you now have +5v at the output ,
then you need to use pull up resistors connecting the input pins to the +5V
(or another version of the IC like the 74LS245)
if you re-used the 56 ohm resistors for the switch inputs the switch will pass 0.1A to GND
without any info on the manual pulse generator
try 4k7 resistors to connect the A & B inputs to +5V
the connect the un used 74hct245 inputs to either 0V or +5V
another way is to use single in line resistors
John
-
Hi Chaps :wave:
I made a start on making new table ends yesterday as the original ones could not be modded :Doh:
They should look like this ,,,,, i hope
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_Bearing%20support.jpg)
Now if i had of finished my cupola furnace i would have cast them :coffee: but as its still under a tarp in the yard un-finished it will be of welded construction :zap:
a few bits of bright mild steel with the weld prep done
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040036.jpg)
the parts tacked together ready to be welded
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040038.jpg)
welded :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040043.jpg)
Then into the furnace at blast mark 5 for half an hour :)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040046.jpg)
There they will stay to cool slowly ,ready for tomorrow night :med:
Rob
-
Rob,
Nice bit of welding :clap: :thumbup:
And blast mark 5 looks hot!!!
:beer:
DaveH
-
That is better than elecrronics
Welds look a bit dry :Doh: :Doh: :Doh:
Spot on mate :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
John
-
Hi Rob,
they look great
wouldn't be any better if you had cast them
can't wait to see how you machine them
John
-
Very nice Looking welding, but can I ask why did you space it is it to get the weld to penetrate more, Not from a metal background , whatever it still looks nice and neat ( compaid to the attempt I made once)
Peter
-
Peter,
It's a cunning Geordie trick to save metal :scratch:
John S.
-
Still working on it, I thought you was finish by now :lol:
-
Hi Chaps :wave:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_Bearing%20support.jpg)
Rob
Rob,
How do you get a surface finish like this in the bores ? :coffee:
John S.
-
Hi Chaps :wave:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_Bearing%20support.jpg)
Rob
Rob,
How do you get a surface finish like this in the bores ? :coffee:
John S.
Aahh....that'll be another cunning Geordie trick.... :D
Nice work Rob, keep the pictures coming..
-
Hi Chaps :wave:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_Bearing%20support.jpg)
Rob
Rob,
How do you get a surface finish like this in the bores ? :coffee:
John S.
Aahh....that'll be another cunning Geordie trick.... :D
Nice work Rob, keep the pictures coming..
I wonder why you can never see Robs reflection in a mirrored surface, WOO Scary :lol: :lol:
:ddb: :nrocks: :ddb: Peter :ddb: :nrocks: :ddb:
-
Good going Rob :thumbup: - very nice welding as always.
Nice to see the furnace fired up; must be getting colder there :poke: :D
:beer:, Arnold
-
.....How do you get a surface finish like this in the bores ? :coffee:
John S.
Tis the special lubricant they have up there - Newc'y Brown ! (even if the finish isn't any better, you can't focus on the fine detail!)
P.S. not casting any aspersions (or nasturtiums!) on Rob's sobriety in the least ....
cheers / Dave :beer:
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Cheers Lads ,,,,,,,,,,,, SPECIAL STEEL shiny all the way through :med:
P.S. not casting any aspersions (or nasturtiums!) on Rob's sobriety in the least ....
cheers / Dave :beer:
:lol: :lol: :lol: ,,,,,fell over pi%$ed Sunday night ,a bit over lubricated :ddb: :ddb:,,,bust my knee :Doh: :coffee:
Rob
-
Clumsy bastard...................
-
Clumsy bastard...................
Priceless
John
-
Clumsy bastard...................
Priceless
John
Priceless but inaccurate.
Judging by his projects, I see no sign of ' clumsy ' ... :lol:
BC
-
Evening Chaps
Had a good couple of afternoons in the shop ,, The welded assemblies came out of the furnace black and crispy :) ,, so they were given a quick blast .
Then they required truing up , as welded a assembly always moves a tad :med: skimmed up on the mill/drill
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040051.jpg)
Next onto the HZ mill to machine off the excess material , setting the table to 27.5 deg
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040069.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040076.jpg)
Chamfers machined on with a 45 deg HZ cutter
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040081.jpg)
Then onto the shaper to clean up the underside
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040096.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040109.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040113.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040111.jpg)
Rob :dremel:
-
They look even better in the flesh :bow: :bow:
John
-
Hi Rob
good to see your making progress
as expected , they look better than the machines original parts :D
John
-
Nice Rob :bow: :bow:
-
Rob,
Must say very nicely done :thumbup: :clap:
And I hope your knee is feeling better.
(Unsympathetic lot on here) :lol: :lol: :lol:
:beer:
DaveH
-
Those came out fantastic!
Eric
-
Nicely done Rob! :clap:
Almost as pretty as the cad pictures..... :thumbup:
David D
-
Cheers Lads :headbang: thanks for looking in :beer:
A bit of tooling required so that i can carry on with the build :dremel: ,, i need a box angle plate for a set up on the mill , when i got a new shaper I decided to recycle the old Alba shaper :med: i kept the table as it would make a cracking box angle plate .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040118.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040119.jpg)
I gave it a bit of a scrub up and checked it for square ,,,,,,,,,, then chopped of the excess material were it would have fitted on the ways.
Set up on the mill and the underside was mill flat and true and a few slots milled into the bottom .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040120.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040122.jpg)
Next the closed end was milled and slotted
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040130.jpg)
Couple of clamping shots .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040128.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040126.jpg)
Job done all bar some deburing :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040133.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040131.jpg)
I even have a use for the three tapped holes that were for the gib adjust screws ,,,,,,, just the job for fitting a fence :med:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040134.jpg)
Another job off the list and a dam handy bit of kit for an afternoons work :)
Rob
-
Didn't think there was much demand for box angle plates any more? Just weighed three in :Doh:
John S.
-
You did what John :doh: :doh:
Most of the ones i have seen on Ebay are either to large or go for over £100 plus P&P .
Rob
mmmmmmm :scratch: quid symbol dose not work £££££££ $$$$$$
-
££££££££
You know, he's right :scratch:
-
€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€
BC
Edit Seems the euro is clobbered too unless you got here via 'Recent Posts', in which case it does work.
Far too clever for the likes of me ... :scratch:
-
mmmmmmm :scratch: quid symbol dose not work £££££££ $$$$$$
Working on it. Will look into it tomorrow...
BTW... looks OK in the reply box. Lets see how it posts
-
A wee bit more progress :dremel:
The 626 table mounted on the mill using my new box angle plate :med: so that a can redo the dowels that hold the table ends in position .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040136.jpg)
I had to use a second angle plate to give me a tad more room for clamping ,, the spring between the clamp and plate is there so that the clamp and packing would stay in position wile i lifted the 626 table into position .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040143.jpg)
I used a coaxial indicator to pick up the old dowel holes .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040144.jpg)
Then drilled and reamed for the 10mm dowels
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040149.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040151.jpg)
Dowels fitted and i also drilled and tapped the nut fixings , I used a couple of roll pins to lock the nut ,roll pins need a trim .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040154.jpg)
Rob
-
Bloody magic rob
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
I just love cleaver set ups like that
Stew
-
Bloomin' good set up Rob! :thumbup: :clap: :clap:
David D
-
Very clever :thumbup: :thumbup: :bow: :bow:
Be a handy tool that box angle plate
John
-
The 626 table mounted on the mill using my new box angle plate :med: so that a can redo the dowels that hold the table ends in position .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040136.jpg)
Oh, that looks familiar.... :lol: I couldn't use an extra angle plate for clamping though, I'd run out of table!
(http://lister-engine.com/pics/sump/108-SettingUp.jpg)
PS: Blimey, I just read this whole page, that's some really nice work you're doing there Rob! One day, I shall be at your level of skill (by which time, I'll be too old and infirm to use them doh!)
-
Good going Rob :bow: :bow: - and nice setup picture on using that box angle plate :thumbup: :thumbup:
:beer:, Arnold
-
Thanks lads :thumbup: :mmr:
Hi Ade :lol: :lol: :lol: your job trumped mine ,, my drill was only 5 inches long ,,,,,not 2 foot :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Managed to get the table ends fitted today , not allot to show .
But the method i used to locate the fixing holes may be of interest to someone :coffee:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040159.jpg)
I made up a couple of screw in transfer punches from a couple of 6mm screws
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040158.jpg)
simply made by cutting the head off and turning a point on the cut end .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040156.jpg)
then two flats were filed on the end .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040157.jpg)
Then they are screwed into the holes using pointy nose pliers so the point is just proud .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040161.jpg)
The ends are then mounted on the dowels .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040163.jpg)
And with a tap from a soft mallet the points will mark the job were the holes require drilling .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040170.jpg)
I changed the fixings to M8 as M6 was a bit on the small side .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040171.jpg)
Rob
-
Hi Rob ,
its learning simple techniques like that helps
those of us who's day job is not mechanical engineering :bow:
John
-
A most efficient solution to get the punch marks where they should be! :thumbup:
I have seen this solution described in an MEW issue some time back, but then the author at the time also hardened the transfer punch screws, did you do it as well or just used the screws as they are???
BR
/Peter
-
Cheers John ,,,,,,,,,, it may come in handy one day :dremel:
Hi Peter ,,,,,,,,,,,,, just as they are , no need to harden them for a quick one off job :thumbup:
Rob
-
Thanks Rob :thumbup:
That's true, and if the need re-occurs over and over again it will be easy to sharpen the point when needed, of course.
BR
/Peter
-
Great way to make some dimples!
And, BTW, :jaw: :jaw:
That looks like it belongs there...
Eric
-
Anybody know where you can buy sets of these screw-in transfer punches? Been looking for them for ages, can't seem to find them though...
-
You can get nearly the same result using a ball bearing, choose a size just big enough not to get stuck in the hole.
I personally use an allen grub screw wound in backwards so it leaves the point sticking out
John S
-
Cheers Eric :thumbup:
Now that the ends are fitted to the table , i could now mark out the position for the bearings , working from the nut .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040177.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040179.jpg)
the other way .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040181.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040182.jpg)
And if i have positioned the table ends correctly ,, the scribed lines should be smack bang in the centre of the bearing block .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040183.jpg)
they were :coffee:
With both ends marked up ,, i now needed some way of boring out the ends , i decided to use the CUB lathe and mount them on the face plate .
To do this i had to machine up a fixture plate , the end bolted to the plate ,plate bolted to the faceplate .
The fixture plate was machined up from a bit 1"x6"x6" hot rolled steel .
Method i used to hold the plate wile i machined the face's flat .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040184.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040185.jpg)
Finished fixture plate ,, with built in screw jack .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040187.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040190.jpg)
Set up on the lathe ready for boring tomorrow :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040196.jpg)
Rob
-
:bow: :bow: :bow:
Even the jig is perfect :clap: :clap: :clap:
I bet the final cut has your arse twitching :D :D :D :D
I think you are on the home straight now
John
-
Good going Rob :bow: :bow:
I really like the way you mounted the plate for facing the flats; never thought to use the clamping kit like that :thumbup:
Great write-up and photos as well :bow:
:beer:, Arnold
-
Thanks John and Arnold :beer:
Well that one machined up ,,,,,,,,,,,,, still need to decide what bearings to use on the other end of the ballscrew ,,, i will have a rummage tomorrow and see what i have in my box of bearings .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040201.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040203.jpg)
Rob
-
I wish the pieces I made for my tooling looked half as good as that!
Eric
-
That really looks the part now :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
I must get some steel that is shiney on the inside :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
John
-
My work seems to be the opposite to Rob's I take a nice piece of shiny metal and make it look Crap, :doh:
people say "what is the thread for " and I have to say it is supposed to be smooth :doh: :doh:
very interesting post thanks for the detail.
Peter
-
Thanks Lads :beer: ,,,,,,,,,I am pleased with the way the CUB
-
Thanks Lads :beer: ,,,,,,,,,I am pleased with the way the CUB
DOES WHAT ???
BC
-
Thanks Lads :beer: ,,,,,,,,,I am pleased with the way the CUB grafts :dremel:
Apologies Petter ,,,,,,,,,, Just re-read the thread and realized i had misses your question about the weld prep :Doh: ,,,,, You got it, it is to get good penetration and also i new the job would distort a tad and would need machining back square .
Rob
-
Thanks Lads :beer: ,,,,,,,,,I am pleased with the way the CUB
DOES WHAT ???
BC
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :Doh: Now how did that happen Dave :scratch:
Must have pressed something wile typing :Doh:
Rob
-
Nice done Rob :clap: :clap: :clap:
-
.....
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040203.jpg)
......
Well, I know there were at least one set of raised eyebrows when Rob showed his 3D model with a shiny bore - but I think we'd have to admit that the results aren't that different!
Dave :thumbup:
-
Rob,
Do you mind me asking why you decided to do this operation on the lathe rather than the mill? Is it because the mill is in pieces/you don't have another one, or is it advantageous to do it on the lathe?
-
Thanks Benni :beer:
Cheers Dave ,,,,,,,,, I it looks close enough :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob,
Do you mind me asking why you decided to do this operation on the lathe rather than the mill? Is it because the mill is in pieces/you don't have another one, or is it advantageous to do it on the lathe?
Hi Loply ,,,,,,,,,,,,Dont mined at all ,,, its allot easier/quicker to do a boring operation in the lathe if the job will fit ,better range of feeds and speeds , if i had used the other mill and a boring head i would have had to hand crank the Z feed ,no power feed , much better to sit back have a brew and watch the lathe do all the work :med: I also wanted the use the old CUB lathe as since its rebuild it has only done one other real job :dremel:
Just to add , the fixture plate will be used for other jobs that come up ,,not just on the lathe :med:
Rob :beer:
-
its allot easier/quicker to do a boring operation in the lathe much better to sit back have a brew and watch the lathe do all the work
Err more like a pint of Newcy Brun Ale....than tea...( why cant I do a Goerdie accent in typology... :D )
Nice job there Rob....very nice...
-
Looking great Rob
To take a worn out machine restore it and then turn out parts like that
Is a true insperation :bow: :bow:
-
Cheers John and John :beer:
John ,,,,,,,,,,,,, :lol: :lol: i prefer a higher alcohol content in my bottle :ddb: :ddb:
A bit more done ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,not allot but its a step closer to the finish line :med: ,,,,,, Turned up the locking rings for want of a better name ,, these
do three jobs , lock the bearing outer ,hold the shaft seal and to locate motor . And i also machined up the end cap for the other end :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040215.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040217.jpg)
Rob
-
That looks like the mistery metal that is shiney on the inside :bow: :bow:
Cracking job as usuall :thumbup: :thumbup:
John
-
:thumbup: :thumbup: Cracking job as always Rob :D :D
:beer:, Arnold
-
Thanks John and Arnold :headbang:
Thought i would make a start on the Y axis today ,,, the knee casting needs a wee bit of work :dremel: ,, cleaned up the cast slot and increased the travel to 220mm :)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040237.jpg)
before
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040238.jpg)
after
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040245.jpg)
Rob
-
Wilson,
Will you stop pissing about with this thing and just get one with it.
Talking about dragging a job out, you in a union ? :(
John S.
-
Wilson,
Will you stop pissing about with this thing and just get one with it.
Talking about dragging a job out, you in a union ? :(
John S.
-
Wilson,
Will you stop pissing about with this thing and just get one with it.
Talking about dragging a job out, you in a union ? :(
John S.
:lol: :lol: :lol: it is going on a bit John :lol: :lol: :lol:
After been a bit crook for the passed few day i felt the need for a bit metal bashing today and i need a couple of bits of kit to make life a bit easier for a couple of machining set ups further along in this conversion ,, (any excuse :coffee: )
Piss artists impression ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, WITHOUT chrome finish on render :lol: :lol: Keats type angle plate and plain angle plate , designed to fit the slot pattern on the CUB face plate ,,,, saves having to poke holes in the face plate for fixing :med:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_Angle%20plates.jpg)
Got a bit carried away with the build before a remembered the camera :Doh: ,,, anyway some 5/8" plate was burnt up and stuck together :zap:
Furnace shot ,,,,,,,,,, i do like making stuff glow a tad :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040250.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040251.jpg)
And after a quick clean up , ready for machining tomorrow .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040255.jpg)
All piss taking comments welcome :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
Cant really think of owt nasty to say at the minute
I will have a think :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
-
Rob,
There are 3 pieces shown on your drawing (ignoring the face plate).
Seems you have only made 2 pieces ?
:beer:
DaveH
-
Rob,
There are 3 pieces shown on your drawing (ignoring the face plate).
Seems you have only made 2 pieces ?
:beer:
DaveH
:Doh: Hi Dave ,,,,,,,,,,,,thats nowt ,,,,, just need to bend a bit bar that shape for the clamp :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
Rob,
Thanks, .......... and they are made from 5/8" thick plate? so I assume they were welded. Just that those inside fillets look really good.
:beer:
DaveH
-
He rubs the welds with his finger to make them smoothe :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
John
-
:lol: :lol: Cheers John ,,,,,,,,,, i used the ruff skin on my hands actually :lol: :lol: :lol:
Thanks Dave ,,,,,,,, ran the welds in vertical down hand with the MIG,, quick zap with die grinder just to improve the appearance on the clean up shot :dremel:
Rob
-
Nice Rob, some fine work there :clap: :clap:
-
Rob.
You Jammie Barsteward!. I got a small job in my shop right at the moment that needs a Keats, im too tight to buy one of the Asian clones so I am devoting about an hour a day at work in fabricating one out of stainless angle and plate and its becoming a lot of work!. Those dam castings look good and when painted will be the real Mc coy!. I wish I could foundry at work!!!!!!!. Nice job old boy.
Anthony
-
Rob.
You Jammie Barsteward!. I got a small job in my shop right at the moment that needs a Keats, im too tight to buy one of the Asian clones so I am devoting about an hour a day at work in fabricating one out of stainless angle and plate and its becoming a lot of work!. Those dam castings look good and when painted will be the real Mc coy!. I wish I could foundry at work!!!!!!!. Nice job old boy.
Anthony
Castings, I thought he said welded them up then hit them with a dia grinder, the welding he does is the best I have ever seen , I wish I was closer as I would get him to alter my wheel chair.
Peter
-
You obviously have experience in welding then? :lol:
Seriously tho' thats an excellent bit of fabrication.. :bow: :bow:
-
Rob.
You Jammie Barsteward!. I got a small job in my shop right at the moment that needs a Keats, im too tight to buy one of the Asian clones so I am devoting about an hour a day at work in fabricating one out of stainless angle and plate and its becoming a lot of work!. Those dam castings look good and when painted will be the real Mc coy!. I wish I could foundry at work!!!!!!!. Nice job old boy.
Anthony
Anthony, there's a small Keats plate, made by folding along the dotted lines, here:
http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/keats-type-angle-plate.html
Andy
-
Rob,
My welding doesn't look anywhere near as good as yours - even after I've milled off all the lumps, filled the holes with Plastic Padding and painted over it!
Superb work again! :clap:
Phil.
-
Cheers Lads :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
The fillet welds are not structural just me faffing about , the parts were welded all the way through from the other side ,after welding the parts up i was not happy with the look of the square internal corners so i decided to tart the job up a bit :loco:
:lol: :lol: :lol: Phil ,,,,,,,,,, its just practice mate keep at it :thumbup:
Hi ,,Anthony ,,,,,,,,,, you going to post some photos of your Keats angle plate :poke: :)
Late start in the shop today ,so not allot done :bang: ,,,,,,,,,,, milled the slot in the angle plate .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040262.jpg)(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040270.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040272.jpg)
Next bolted to the shaper and one face cleaned up
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040274.jpg)(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040276.jpg)
And one of the flame cut edges was sorted :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040278.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040282.jpg)
Rob :)
-
:drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
-
Hi Rob ,
that's looking Great ,
a made to measure angle plate wins every time :bow:
unless you're short of time and had to make do with a ready made one :lol:
John
-
Bloody hell Rob, wish you had told me you wanted one.
I threw 7 away last week, still in makers wrapping grease :poke:
John S.
-
Bloody hell Rob, wish you had told me you wanted one.
I threw 7 away last week, still in makers wrapping grease :poke:
John S.
Have you got a AC/DC Tig set you are going to throw away before i buy my present off the wife :lol: :lol: :lol:
John
-
I have actually but I don't think you can afford to run it.
I reckon you can get more heat off the electric meter gimbal than the torch :zap:
Seriously it works but plays up [ DC bit not working right ] so I bought a new one, the old one is just insurance because when you have two the first one never breaks down.
I bought one of the Chinese £500 quid ones off Ebay, a bit wary as they are all full of things that go zapp and if it goes wrong there is no way I can fix this.
Then I bought a small plasma cutter, again off eEbay from www.cut40.com [ web site down - don't bother ] but they are local and can also repair these welders so I can breath easier.
John S.
-
What make of TIG set did you get John ? There is a local Wallsend company selling those imported TIG sets ,,,,,, me and John are looking into getting a couple of new sets ,,,,, both or TIG's are just DC looking for AC/DC units .
Rob
PS STOP chucking stuff in the skip :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
EDIT ,,,,,,,,,, anyway my angle plate is special :med: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
-
Rob,
Got this one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180708746280
Not from these people, bought mine from the UK from Corbel Welding but they are only box shifters.
John S.
-
HI rob thats sum nice work you is on with
-
....The fillet welds are not structural just me faffing about , the parts were welded all the way through from the other side ,after welding the parts up i was not happy with the look of the square internal corners so i decided to tart the job up a bit :loco: .......
No Rob, that's not the correct terminology - the fillets were balancing welds!
Dave
-
....The fillet welds are not structural just me faffing about , the parts were welded all the way through from the other side ,after welding the parts up i was not happy with the look of the square internal corners so i decided to tart the job up a bit :loco: .......
No Rob, that's not the correct terminology - the fillets were balancing welds!
Dave
:lol: :lol: :lol: Hi Dave ,, they would have had to of been a bit heavier :thumbup:
Rob,
Got this one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180708746280
Not from these people, bought mine from the UK from Corbel Welding but they are only box shifters.
John S.
Hi John ,,,,,,,,,, Looks the same spec as the ones we have been looking at :zap:
Rob
-
Hi Lads
A bit more progress today on the angle plate ,,machined up the long leg of the angle .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040288.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040292.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040306.jpg)
I still have to machine the radius on the short leg and a couple of chamfers here and there .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040304.jpg)
Made a start on the Keats angle plate ,,,,,,, marked out the cutter centre end points of the slot pattern .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040294.jpg)
Using the centre finder the angle plate was adjusted so the two end points of the slot to be machined were parallel with the travel of the mill table and the table stops locked .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040296.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040297.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040300.jpg)
Next onto the shaper to have the top face machined ,, there is a bit of twist on this ,, but it should machine up OK
The Keats was bolted to another angle plate roughly in position , set level to zero on the shaper box
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040302.jpg)
Then the level was placed in the Vee and the two screw jacks adjusted until the level read 45 deg.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040303.jpg)
top face machined up .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040308.jpg)
Not happy with the finish ,, there is a hard spot that kept killing my tool ,,,,,,, quick lash with the surface grinder should fix that :dremel:
Rob
-
keep at it you will soon be at the end
-
I think this is the first time I've actually seen machinist's jacks used in a real setup! So they do have a purpose other than just a "first project"!
-Sparky
-
Rob
Great job there on those parts. You always make it look so simple and easy. I don't always say a lot but I'm always looking over your shoulder
:D :D.
Cheers :beer:
Don 5649
-
Cheers Bob ,,,,,,,,,,, still along ways to go ,,,,,,,,,,still hours of shop time in this project :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
Hi Sparky ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: yes they do come in handy ,,,,,,,,,,,, think i have some four sets of jacks ,,,,,, :dremel:
Thanks Don ,,,,,,,,,,, Thought i could feel a presence in the shop this week :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
Grabbed a couple of hours in the shop tonight and finished off the machining the angle plate :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040320.jpg)
One down :coffee:
Rob
-
Grabbed a couple of hours in the shop tonight and finished off the the angle plate :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040320.jpg)
One down :coffee:
Rob
I see you've satin chromed it too! :lol: :lol:
Very nice work, Young Man. :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
-
Nice work Rob :bugeye: :bugeye:
-
It would be a shame to paint those and cover up all that lovely work. While you obviously can't judge any weld penetration by eye. Due to my job, I've looked at many 10s of thousands of welds. Pretty well none of them looked as good as those do. Awesome work as usuall Rob. :beer:
Pete
-
Rob,
I think you must have a very special digital camera with 'Shiny Metal' and 'Smooth Fillet' settings - brilliant.
:thumbup:
Phil.
-
:thumbup: :thumbup: Looks great Rob :D
:beer:, Arnold
-
Rob,
Rather splendid :clap: :clap: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
-
Thanks for all your comments Lads :beer:
Just about finished off machining the the body of the Keats today ,, cut a slot in the bottom of the Vee .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040317.jpg)
Set the job up at 45deg so that i could machine one of the Vee faces .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040324.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040334.jpg)
The job was then rotated and the machined face clocked in vertically and the other face then machined .
Job done , just have to decide weather to machine the off two sharp corners , either to radius or chamfer them
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040339.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040337.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040342.jpg)
I still have the clamp bar to make :dremel:
Rob
-
HI well its no good me siting her will have to get me tom tom out and go and av a look at robs workshop and av a poke a round :) :) :)
-
just waiting for the phone call Bob :thumbup:
Well not allot done this week :coffee: ,,,,,,,, made a start on the clamp bar ,, this was knocked up from a bit 2"x3/4" HRS .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040345.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040349.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040347.jpg)
Made a start on machining it up ,,,,,,,, handy having a pair of vices :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040351.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040354.jpg)
Rob
-
God, you aren't half making a meal out of those two bits of bent tin.....................
-
God, you aren't half making a meal out of those two bits of bent tin.....................
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: John ,,,,,,,,,,,,, i no what you mean , its not very exciting :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
Great looking bits mate :thumbup: :bow: :bow:
So, next shop session you have two holes to drill then... You're getting as bad as me :poke: :lol: :lol: :lol:
:beer:, Arnold
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: Cheers mate :beer: ,,,,,,,, I am trying to put Mr Stevenson to sleep :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: Cheers mate :beer: ,,,,,,,, I am trying to put Mr Stevenson to sleep :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
Rob,
Give 'im a pint of Newcy Brown....G'teed to put anyone to sleep..... :beer:
Job's coming on quite well...and I recognise some of the machinery in your shop.... :D
-
Cheers Arnold and John :beer:
Call again John when your next up :thumbup:
Finished of the Keats today :dremel: ,,, machined a 11/16" rad on the angle plate and the ends of the clamp . My box angle plate came in handy .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040364.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040363.jpg)
I decided to slot the clamp bar ,, so that i would get a better range of parts that Keats would hold . I also only machined were needed on this part , no need to machine it all over .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040370.jpg)
Next the Keats was mounted on a turned length of bar in the CUB lathe so that the back face could be turned true .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040395.jpg)
Job done :)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040375.jpg)
Suppose i better get on with what i was originally doing in this thread ,,,,,,, if i can remember what that was :scratch:
Cheers Rob
-
Wot no paint!
Enjoying the mini series as much as the main feature.
J
-
Hi Rob ,
it looks too good to hide under a coat of paint :ddb:
what speed did you face the underside of the plate with it being unbalanced ?
John
PS can't wait for the next instalment of the cnc mill
-
:lol: :lol: No paint Jason :Doh:
PS can't wait for the next instalment of the cnc mill
Hi John ,,,,,,,,, so thats what i was doing :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I think i will leave the angle plate's O natural :med: i quite like the look of em .
The lathe was set to 190 rpm's any faster and it started to move across the shop :palm:
Rob
-
Rob,
How did you fashion the clamp plate from such heavy flat bar? :scratch:
You're obviously a 'Madmodder' of great talent.. :D
ps thnx for the invite :thumbup:
-
Hi John
Rob,
How did you fashion the clamp plate from such heavy flat bar? :scratch:
Geordie no how ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I cheated and welded it up ,,,, its made from four bits stuck together :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
HI nothing wrong with them rob I will place my order gnaw can I have 10 please :) :) :) :)
-
:bow: :bow: Great looking Keats plate mate :thumbup:
Suppose i better get on with what i was originally doing in this thread ,,,,,,, if i can remember what that was :scratch:
:lol: let's see now could it be the r....e......, k..... h.. & m..., ... ... ... - No; hang on... :poke: It was putting J.S. to sleep... I better shut my trap :lol:
:beer:, Arnold
-
I better shut my trap :lol:
:beer:, Arnold
:lol: :lol: :lol: i shut your trap :hammer: :lol: :lol:
Getting distracted again mate :palm:,,, wile looking at the Keats and thinking what a pain it can be to set things up vertical both ways on the mill to do work on the end of long parts i doodled this up :Doh:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DB%20Angle%20Plate.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DB%20Angle%20Plate%201.jpg)
Probably all been done before ,, cos there is nowt new in this game :dremel:
Rob
-
Suppose i better get on with what i was originally doing in this thread ,,,,,,, if i can remember what that was :scratch:
I'm fairly sure you were making some scrap metal so the rest of us would feel a little less inferior? :lol:
Seriously - blummin good work as usual Rob, that keats thingy looks fabulous.
-
Rob,
Just to comment on the Keats.
Looks terrific, nicely made, and well finished. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Good post.
:beer:
DaveH
-
Rob rather than that mill contraption can't you just bolt your new Keats plate to the mill table to do the same job?
J
-
Rob, your drawing looks a bit like a Rike vice I think its called.
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2304
Nowt new like you said :beer:
Lee
-
Hi Rob, :wave:
What happened to the CNC mill, just kidding it has been an interesting read. :beer:
:proj: :mmr: :headbang: :headbang:
You do a great job of taking photos all the way through. I do some photos and know how easy it is to forget and how much extra time it takes , so thanks as it makes it a good read.
I also do the weld and machine type of of jobs because getting casting done over here is near impossible.
Keep up the great threads
Dave
-
Thanks Ade and Dave :beer:
Rob rather than that mill contraption can't you just bolt your new Keats plate to the mill table to do the same job?
J
The Keats would be OK for shorter lengths ,,,, as i said Longer lengths of stock/jobs For example this operation on the clamp bar .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040363.jpg)
The Keats would be no good whats so ever .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040399.jpg)
Yes i could faff about and packing it up ,, also the Keats has a large foot print so it could not be used so well on the surface grinder .
As i have at a rough guess a Ton ++ of steel :) i may as well use a bit up and build one :dremel:
Rob, your drawing looks a bit like a Rike vice I think its called.
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2304
Nowt new like you said :beer:
Lee
Hi Lee ,,,,,,,,,,,,,Looks very much the same ,,, slightly different clamp :med:
Hi Rob, :wave:
What happened to the CNC mill, just kidding it has been an interesting read. :beer:
:proj: :mmr: :headbang: :headbang:
You do a great job of taking photos all the way through. I do some photos and know how easy it is to forget and how much extra time it takes , so thanks as it makes it a good read.
I also do the weld and machine type of of jobs because getting casting done over here is near impossible.
Keep up the great threads
Dave
Thanks Dave
Pleased you liked the photos :thumbup: you should take your camera in the shop more often :poke: Have you ever thought about setting up your own foundry ? ,,,, I probably would have cast these if i had got my butt in gear and sorted the furnace :Doh: :proj:
Cheers Lads Rob
Edit : Thinking allowed again :palm: ,,, maybe a smaller version that would fit the mill vice may come in handy .
-
Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic. :Doh: its been that long :lol:
Picked up a couple of 8mm pitch/20mm timing pulley's tother day for the Z axis .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040930.jpg)
Part machined up the mounting block for the Y axis nut to see how much room i had left to fit the Z lead screw pulley .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040919.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040920.jpg)
mmmmmmm there is no room to fit the pulley :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040927.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040928.jpg)
I can turn the nut 90 deg that would give me another 7 mm to play with . Wont look as nice :(
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040929.jpg)
I was never impressed with the section of casting that houses the Z axis bearings , and there was not allot i could do with it as it is to fit the new bearings ect ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, so i removed the offending lump :)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040924.jpg)
No going back :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040931.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040933.jpg)
Rob
-
so i removed the offending lump :)
No going back :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
Now, that's a bit drastic. Even for you......... :bugeye:
I hope you've got a plan, Rob! :smart:
David D
-
You got plenty of cutting discs mate :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
John
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Hi Rob,
Your doing some fantastic work as usual.
I know your probably well aware of this, but I just thought I would mention that cast iron gusset helps hold the Y axis ways apart, so when tightening the gib it wont squash the ways in.
I will keep watching to see what your doing, but as with all your projects I am sure you have it all worked out and under control.
I was thinking about you the other week when I was chasing up one of your posts for someone, and got thinking I have not seen much of your work lately, then I remembered you did your back, how is that going? I have a broken C3 disc, and I know how these things can lay you up.
Keep up the great work and posts. Always interesting to read and the clear pictures are a bonus.
Dave
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:D :D Good to see you back on the mill job mate :thumbup:
Even if you look like you might be making even more work for yourself on it :Doh: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
:beer:, Arnold
Now, just keep it up :whip: :whip: :D
-
well dun rob
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Cheers Lads :)
Now, that's a bit drastic. Even for you......... :bugeye:
I hope you've got a plan, Rob! :smart:
David D
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: i like drastic David :lol: :lol: :lol: ,,,,,,,,,,, Sort of have a plan :dremel:
Hi Rob,
I know your probably well aware of this, but I just thought I would mention that cast iron gusset helps hold the Y axis ways apart, so when tightening the gib it wont squash the ways in.
Dave
Cheers Dave ,,, my back is much better now thanks :beer: ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Good to see your paying attention :med: ,,,,,,,,,,,,, I had measured the casting at a few reference points before and after i had copped that portion of the casting , so i could check for any movement in the casting , there was none :thumbup: ,, i will be replacing the part i chopped out :dremel:.
Even if you look like you might be making even more work for yourself on it :Doh: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
:beer:, Arnold
Now, just keep it up :whip: :whip: :D
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: no point doing it the easy way Arnold :Doh: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
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Evening Lads
The two lugs that i had left on the casting will be used to mount the new Z axis bearing support :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040934.jpg)
Using my HZ arbour vertically allowed me to reach into the casting to machine the lugs . :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040950.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040937.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040938.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040943.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040953.jpg)
Now i have something to work from :med:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040963.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040966.jpg)
Rob
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Very nice Rob :clap: :clap: :clap:
I see the casting is shiney on the inside :) :) :) :)
John
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I think this says it all:
:jaw: :loco: :bugeye: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Really nice work Rob, those lugs cleaned up a treat, and what a stonking setup.
Note to self: Once finances recover, buy horizontal arbour to use as spindle extension....
-
Cheers John :thumbup:
Thanks Ade ,,,,,,,,,HZ arbours do save the day sometimes :dremel: :D
Spun the nut 90 deg and machined of the excess from the nut mount .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040970.jpg)
Plenty of room for the pulley and the nut to pass :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040969.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040968.jpg)
I will have to make a new nut mounting block as it looks naff as is :coffee:
Rob
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I will have to make a new nut mounting block as it looks naff as is :coffee:
Rob
I agree :poke:
Should be playing catchup in a couple of weeks with my VMB.
Got rid of that big TOS lathe [ well hiab truck comes in the morning 8:30 to drag it to the scrap yard ], problem is the debris left from the move.
There must have been ten big tins of "useful material - come in handy one day " under the lathe. Trouble is it's been there 10 years.
Started to sort it out and thought **** it, don't have time for this so threw a big Edgwick tool cupboard on its back and shovelled the bloody lot in, got to borrow a 3 tone fork truck in the morning, mine won't lift the bastard.
Got 40 metres of 2" box section coming tomorrow to make a new bench for the small CNC's to stand on, 4 CNC's on small production work will earn far more than this big old lathe and a lot easier.
John S.
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so threw a big Edgwick tool cupboard on its back and shovelled the bloody lot in
Mutter grumble...
-
Got 40 metres of 2" box section coming tomorrow to make a new bench for the small CNC's to stand on, 4 CNC's on small production work will earn far more than this big old lathe and a lot easier.
John S.
Interesting John ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and what will ye be making with 4 CNC'S ? :dremel:
you will probably have your VMB ,,,,,,,,,,,,converted before I :Doh:
Made a start on the Z axis bearing mount ,,,,,, chopped a wee bit of one of my large lumps of scrapbinium .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040971.jpg)
Slapped it in the CUB lathe ,, for turning and boring ,,,,,,,,,,,,ruffing shot.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040978.jpg)
And a few hours later ,,,,,,,,,, all the turning and boring done .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040984.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040985.jpg)
Enough for today ,,,,,,,,,,,,,i will stick it on the mill tomorrow .
Rob
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Interesting John ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and what will ye be making with 4 CNC'S ? :dremel:
A fifth ????
BC
-
...
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040985.jpg)
...
Do you chrome plate after you turn on the lathe? That sure is shiny!!
Eric
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Very nice Rob :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
I see you have had that lens on your camera again :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
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Rob,
Don't waste your time on that CNC conversion. Start making and selling those chrome camera lenses on Ebay.
Gotta be a big market for them
John S.
-
Very nice Rob :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
I see you have had that lens on your camera again :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
Wish he'd lend it me, occasionally......... :thumbup:
Nicely, shineyly done Rob! :clap: :clap:
David D
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:lol: :lol: :lol: Cheers Lads ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, probably just the strong light in my shop :palm:
Interesting John ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and what will ye be making with 4 CNC'S ? :dremel:
A fifth ????
BC
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: your probably right Dave :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Must be hush hush as Mr S is keeping stumm :coffee:
Rob
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:lol: :lol: :lol: Cheers Lads ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, probably just the strong light in my shop :palm:
Interesting John ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and what will ye be making with 4 CNC'S ? :dremel:
A fifth ????
BC
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: your probably right Dave :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Must be hush hush as Mr S is keeping stumm :coffee:
Rob
Can we have a competition to guess what he is making ? I bet he is going to make lenses like on your camera rob because he has always dreamed of having a finish like yours :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: or maybe he can already
:ddb: :nrocks: :ddb: Peter :ddb: :nrocks: :ddb:
-
No I can't and that's what's pissing me off :doh:
-
I think Rob's secretly popping out and buying these bits. There's probably a massive pile of scrap behind his workshop... :lol: :lol: :lol:
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: you lot crack me up :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I did not get as much done to this today as i would have liked ,, i had a few other small projects to get out of the way :dremel: ,,,,,, milled up the edges of the block as i had just left them ruff sawn as the job was gripped in the four jaw for turning .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040991.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1040995.jpg)
now it fits into the knee.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050007.jpg)
turned up a gauge from a bit scrap bar , to gauge the fit between the lugs .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050012.jpg)
Rob
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He even uses the"special camera on scrap test pieces" :drool: Now that is showing off, come on Rob lets see some of your cockups , I have had to move my mill away from the wall there was that much crap pieces getting tossed there :doh:
:ddb: :nrocks: :ddb: Peter :ddb: :nrocks: :ddb:
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Peter ,you no i am the first to show when things go tit's up :Doh: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Grabbed a couple of hours in the shop this afternoon , machined the tenon (cant think of better word ) on the block . This is were i used my precision scrap gauge to get the distance between the shoulders machined to the correct size .
One shoulder machined finishing cut on second shoulder . set gauge on parallel ,same one first shoulder is sitting on , set hight gauge to zero.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050016.jpg)
Measure off second shoulder ........0.12mm to machine off .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050017.jpg)
Machine to size .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050019.jpg)
Jobs a good one .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050023.jpg)
Still more milling to do to the block ,,,,,,,,save that for another day .
Rob
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Well done, a shame the block cant be seen on the finished machine. Maybe you should put a window in the machine, so it can be seen from the outside :)
Stefan
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well dun rob
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So, you're going to mount this machine on its side and lay down on the floor to use it, right Rob?
Else, how will anyone be able to see that block?
-
:lol: :lol: Cheers Lads ,,,,,,,, :)
Well i finished up the machining on the block tonight ,,,,,,, Just needs bolting into its final position , i will do that after i have finished all the machining that needs doing to the knee casting :med:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050031.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050035.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050036.jpg)
I will re-make the Y axis nut mounting block tomorrow :headbang:
Rob
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Beautiful work Rob as usuall :clap: :clap: :clap:
It looks like it has been plated :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
John
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Beautiful work Rob as usuall :clap: :clap: :clap:
It looks like it has been plated :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
John
John....... Do you mean, it hasn't been plated?? :bugeye:
Sheesh! :scratch:
The usual, super quality work there Rob. Well done! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Aahh shoot,
No way I can compete with this, anyone want to buy a load of workshop bits and pieces that just look ordinary ? :palm:
Decided to take up ju-ju doll making in bulk.
John S.
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Holy fluff! Every machined piece looks like is going to end hung on rap artists neck and not hidden into depths of a lowly machines. I haven't seen such a nice silver plating on jewelery on long time.
I'll go fishing and if my machining does not improve I'll take up knitting or crafting garden fourniture ( I actually have to make two tables, four benches and such in a hurry). Envious mumbling, gruntting and sulkking.......replacing lawn with concrete slabs might be my calling from now on.
Pekka
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Thanks lads :palm:,,,,,,,,, BLUSH :beer:
Made a new Y AXIS nut mount today ,,,,,, as i jut could not leave/use the other one . :palm:
A bit RT work required :ddb: :ddb:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050045.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050046.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050048.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050054.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050059.jpg)
Looks a bit better now.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050063.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050064.jpg)
Plenty of room for the pulley and bearing adjuster nut .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050066.jpg)
Now i will need to re-bore the hole for the leadscrew to pass through the knee casting ,, as is looks like they used a rotary rat to chew it out .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050071.jpg)
Rob
-
Thanks lads :palm:,,,,,,,,, BLUSH :beer:
.........
Now i will need to re-bore the hole for the leadscrew to pass through the knee casting ,, as is looks like they used a rotary rat to chew it out .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050071.jpg)
......
And while you're at it, are you going to Rhodium plate the knee? :coffee:
just envious really - maybe its the coolant - is it IrnBru I wonder ?
cheers / Dave
-
Is it just me or is there really a coherent interference pattern on those bores they look SO TRUE!
I never seen rotary rat tool but it must be a chinese version of rotabroach? Seen plenty of those holes thoug.
Very nice. How did you centre that Y nut mount on rotab? Did you had a bespoken spacer that fitted inside the mount bore?
Pekka
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:bow: :bow: :bow: Fabulous work as always Rob - your hidden-away bits look better than my proudly-on-show bits :drool:
I see you've craftily numbered all your clamps "3" - this must be some clever Geordie system?
-
Thanks Lads :wave:
maybe its the coolant - is it IrnBru I wonder ?
cheers / Dave
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: tis unicorn piss Dave :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Is it just me or is there really a coherent interference pattern on those bores they look SO TRUE!
Very nice. How did you centre that Y nut mount on rotab? Did you had a bespoken spacer that fitted inside the mount bore?
Pekka
Hi Pekka ,,,,,,,,,, The finish in the bores is straight from the lathe , i used a tipped tool :dremel: ,,,,, To set up the job on the RT i just clocked the bore into the RT axis .
I see you've craftily numbered all your clamps "3" - this must be some clever Geordie system?
Cheers Ade ,,,,,,,,,, :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: no Geordie system ,,,,,,,,,,they came like that :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Well i did a bit more tonight :dremel: set up the knee on the mill for boring .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050087.jpg)
Picked up new centre .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050085.jpg)
Used a hole saw to remove the bulk of the material , quickest way to do it .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050088.jpg)
Finished to size with a boring head .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050091.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050096.jpg)
It needed boring this size for the nut to pass through when fitted to the screw , also the bore will be used as a register for the Y axis bearing block .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050098.jpg)
Rob
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(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050096.jpg)
What did you use to chamfer the edge Rob?
-
What did you use to chamfer the edge Rob?
Knowing Rob, probably a plastic fork from KFC.
Bugger it, down to some serious Juju doll making, this is pissing me off....................
-
Rob, you need to have the police provide protective custody for you each night. Else, the Chinese are going to
kidnap you and torture you for info on how to do these machines right the first time! Watch over your shoulder, mate!
-
Well Lads.......
It's 07.20, and I've just clocked in, before breakfast, at the start of an unsure day.
I just have to say, what a boost/ lift, this continually developing posting gives me........ :D
Thanks Lads. Your humour/ friendship does more than you realise...... :thumbup:
David D
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whats happening today David ?
-
So I read the title of his tread and thought "Not really into CNC..... ahh, I'll take a look,"
So I did, I read through it and thought... "nothing special, just a few little repairs to an old machine"
Dunno what's wrong with some of this lot eh Rob? :loco: Like no one had ever seen a machine repaired before :scratch:
Ralph. :thumbup:
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What did you use to chamfer the edge Rob?
Knowing Rob, probably a plastic fork from KFC.
Bugger it, down to some serious Juju doll making, this is pissing me off....................
I'm pretty sure he's got a robot in there John:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050098.jpg)
There's no way that's a human hand... :lol:
-
Probably is because they look like the gloves some bastard pinched out my workshop some while ago. :zap:
Getting serious for a minute these gloves are what's know as PU gloves, do a search on Ebay. They are a light weight fabric glove that has been sprayed on the front with some thin plastic, the back remains open weave.
Now years ago in an earlier life i used to work on trucks, bloody hard and heavy work, we were supplied gloves but it was impossible to work in them other than for lifting and grunt work, even then it wasn't comfortable and i have always been against gloves.
Fast forward to 2 years ago and that bloody cold winter we had, one of the guys at the body shop across the road gave me some of the PU gloves and what a boon, warm hands and you can even work with small screws etc.
I am now fully converted and buy these all the while, they last ages anyway and I keep the dirty ones for dirty work, shop around and they cost about 80p a pair.
A pair lasts me probably the best end of a week and that's full time use.
If you get a chance to try a pair do so, I never regretted it and others I have put onto them also swear by them.
OK back to the normal program and keep taking the piss out of Rob. :zap:
-
Mr Stephens have you got a picture of the back of a pair what writing they have on the ones you use I have found so many types on the net and also a supplier up the road from me so it would be handy to make shore I get the right ones as the blue nitride ones I use when working brass make me sweat like a donkeys D***
Peter
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Peter,
Who's this Mr Stevens ? it's Stevo, John, dipshìt, or cretin to you.
Have a look at this picture.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150552556116
Don't buy the black ones, the grey or blue are better as they seem to be thinner on the coating, the black are more heavy duty.
-
thank you for that John, sorry about the Mr Stevenson , but I was always told to respect my Elders I will call you John now
Pete
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Thanks John, I've been using white or blue nitrile ones like Peter, they are OK but make your hands sweat, and leave chalk all over your clothes...
I'll give the PU ones a go. If they last you a week, they should do me for about 6 months/pair...
-
I can't get on with the nitrile ones, put a pair on and rip them off with 10 minutes, the PU ones I wear all day and it's now got to the stage where I feel lost without a pair on, even in summer.
If someone had told me two years ago i would be wearing gloves I'd have been the first to burst out laughing.
Ade, might only last you as long as me if you are working oily stuff, believe it or not my job is quite clean in that it's all new metal and most of the time cleaned components.
In hard conditions I wonder what nitrile over PU would be like ? the problem with nitrile is when it's next to your skin.
Might walk over the road to the body shop and scrounge some nitrile ones to try out.
Mind you thinking about why i don't like nitrile is they stick to handles when you are cranking away on the machines
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Mind you thinking about why i don't like nitrile is they stick to handles when you are cranking away on the machines
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: been there crank knee up ten turns ,,,, bastard hand stuck to hand wheel ,,,,, wined knee down ten turns :Doh: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob, you need to have the police provide protective custody for you each night. Else, the Chinese are going to
kidnap you and torture you for info on how to do these machines right the first time! Watch over your shoulder, mate!
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Wish hey would Dean ,,,,,,,,,,i love noooooodles :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
What did you use to chamfer the edge Rob?
Hi Ade ,,,,,,,,,, i used a chamfer bit i ground up from a bit HSS .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050100.jpg)
Enjoying the crack lads :beer: PS me thinks JS has a rubber fetish :coffee:
Rob
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PS me thinks JS has a rubber fetish
No doubt. But then again, who doesn't...?
-
Hi
It is looking very good :clap: :clap: :clap:
Rob gave me some of those gloves :D :D
The next time i bore a hole i will wear them
They may help me get it the correct size :Doh: :Doh: :Doh:
John
-
Those gloves? I've just ordered two pairs! :thumbup:
Correct size holes don't attract me. I just want the shiny components....... :D
David D
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PS me thinks JS has a rubber fetish
No doubt. But then again, who doesn't...?
Phew, thanks mate that was close, can breath again now............................
-
Anyway sod all this stuffing about with old lumps of metal converting into what not.
Had a brain fart today and ordered a new laser cutter, let see you make one of those Wilson. :zap:
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Anyway sod all this stuffing about with old lumps of metal converting into what not.
Had a brain fart today and ordered a new laser cutter, let see you make one of those Wilson. :zap:
Not a problem ,,,,,,,,,, A bit tape rapped around a laser pointer,for a precision fit , rammed up the mill spindle will do the job :zap: ,,,,,,,,, that should do the trick ,,,, bet mine cost less :lol: :lol:
How way then ,,,,,,,,,,,,,link to new toy :coffee:
Rob
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How way then ,,,,,,,,,,,,,link to new toy :coffee:
Rob
Nope, have to wait it's on the secret list :wave:
If I posted the link now I'd have to kill you.................... :smart:
-
Or maybe ,John , just maybe ,,,,,,,,,,,,my laser pointer stuck up the mill spindle is better :poke: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Spoil sport ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, :wack:
Rob
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Gotta agree about those gloves - we wear them at work. With revolving machinery you have to be careful which type to get though. The super-stretchy ones (we use ninja-flex) have a very grippy palm-side coating and will grip onto the smoothest revolving surface even when wet, causing some pretty nasty injury. I don't use them when drilling (concrete) but I do use them when wire sawing for the extra dexterity. On the drill I use a heavier glove with a thicker and shinier coating (ours are called pro-lite) which is not grippy at all on a smooth wet surface so you can safely handle a spinning core drill.
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I'm no expert, and I'm conscious that we're going O/T, but I did read a rather extensive document some time ago from the American equivalent of the HSE (are they called OSHA or something?) about most common causes of accidents with machinery, and they basically broke down various types of injury and what causes them eg finger amputation, hand amputation, arm amputation and so forth.
Bottom line was the vast majority were caused by gloves or sleeves getting caught in moving parts, pulling the attached body part with them.
I've only ever worn latex gloves since as I think they're fine, but I'd be wary of heavier gloves. Even a drill bit can grab a glove and break your fingers off, assuming you have the spindle power.
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I'm no expert, and I'm conscious that we're going O/T, but I did read a rather extensive document some time ago from the American equivalent of the HSE (are they called OSHA or something?) about most common causes of accidents with machinery, and they basically broke down various types of injury and what causes them eg finger amputation, hand amputation, arm amputation and so forth.
Bottom line was the vast majority were caused by gloves or sleeves getting caught in moving parts, pulling the attached body part with them.
I've only ever worn latex gloves since as I think they're fine, but I'd be wary of heavier gloves. Even a drill bit can grab a glove and break your fingers off, assuming you have the spindle power.
Very true Loply ,,,,,,,,,,,,, I would not recommend wearing gloves wile operating machinery in the shop .
John DB ,,,,,,,,,,,time for Walters finger me thinks ,, just as a reminder on what can happen wile wearing gloves .
Don't worry about the O/T
Rob
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DO NOT WEAR GLOVES WHILE MACHINING
My mate was only drilling a 1/4 inch hole when his glove got stuck in the drill
It pulled the end of his index finger off just leaving the bone poking out
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii63/john970s0/Millingmachineblunder003.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii63/john970s0/Millingmachineblunder001.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii63/john970s0/Millingmachineblunder002.jpg)
A bit graphic i must admit
But this is what happens and it happens very fast
This lad has worked with machinery for 40 years
He just forgot to take his gloves off
I hope this post has not offended any one but on the other hand i hope it stops you from wearing gloves with machine tools
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Hi double boost ,
Graphic , but if you save one person you have done a good job
its better to be shocked by the pictures than go into shock after having the same sort of accident
John
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I'm with Loply on this one - I'll wear fake latex gloves, on the basis they will rip away rather than drag me into any rotating machinery. Probably the nearest miss I've had is with a shop coat getting wrapped around the drive leadscrew of the lathe, fortunately my lathe goes so slowly that as soon as I felt it tugging I could pull back, no harm done.
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Evening chaps
Made a start on the Y axis bearing/motor mount block ,,,, whittled from a bit mystery metal .
Setup in the lathe for boring .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050109.jpg)
Bored for bearings and seal .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050115.jpg)
Still needs a tad more machining.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050121.jpg)
JS must have past me in the CNC build off by noow :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
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No mate, build is on hold whist I get a new bench put in.
Doesn't sound much but this had to come out.
(http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk/files/Dday1.jpg)
Which left this mess,
(http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk/files/dday10.jpg)
And so far we are here.
(http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk/files/dday16.jpg)
12 foot long, 700 mm wide.
Well actually just a bit further on, 5 steel bins in a rack at the far end for steel offcuts in assorted sizes. 2 Machine mart tool chests for tooling and inserts etc out of the wall cupboard and that can then go.
Large two door cupboard with shelf inside for some computers and heavy gear on the bottom. next space is a 2 door cupboard on the bottom and a sliding drawer in the top to take the little engraving machine. It only need access to the front to change plates so no point it taking valuable real estate up on top. The two end shelves have already been changed to a new smaller one piece cabinet.
It needs doors fitted, front of drawer fitted, top fitted and the frame painted, all the doors top etc have been cut.
This will leave room on the top for the original CNC X3, the Myford VMB and I went up to HPC Laser in Halifax last week and bought one of the bigger desktop lasers so that will sit on the end nearest the camera.
Should get this in a couple of weeks, after playing with it for a bit i can then get on with the VMB build
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:thumbup: ,, Looking good John ,,,,,,,,,,,,you going to slap some paint on that steel work :poke:
Laser sounds fun ,,,,,,,,,,,, you going to let on what ye plan to do with it ,,,,,,,,,,at a guess etch parts ?
Rob
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Paint ? Hang on let me google that......................
Laser is to do about 4 jobs in a niche market, one is some very complex gaskets for hydraulic valves.
Can't etch on steel without using some stuff called Thermark, comes in paste or aerosol and mega expensive. Paste is £85 a small tub, like a pill bottle and the aerosol is £100 :drool: Trouble is you spray on or paste on then laser it and wash more off than you have used. It also sits on top of the work melted to it, it's some form of glass slurry so if you say did feeler gauges everytime you closed them it would pare some off. So we will forget that.
You can do anodised aluminium but the lettering is always white or parent metal colour, no good doing plain anodised as you get the same as an Italian flag, white letters on a white background.
Black comes out nice.
(http://www.908ltd.co.uk/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/AA25_Black_Anodi_4d5022e94faea.jpg)
From the web site of the people selling the sheets.
Make ace screwcutting charts for older machines that you can't read :wave:
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I can see were it would be great for cutting gaskets ,,,,,,,,, some of the one i fit that go between the transmission body and valve block are really complicated ,,,,not cheap either ,,,,,,,,,,, suppose ,just thinking out loud , bye one new gasket , scan it , use Scan2cad and you could wiz out as many or when ever you need one ,,,,,,,,,,, mmmmmmmmm slap ye oldie motor bike casing on the scanner and off you go .
The laser/water jet company i do work for etch SS sheet ,,,,,,,,wonder if it has some coating .
Rob
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Lasers can etch SS but they either need more power than a desktop or a different laser, this one of mine is only 40W but a 7W YAG laser will cut 7 thou steel, only problem is a 7W YAG is about 12 grand.
I'm having a job done at the moment in 1.6mm stainless, the cutting costs are very good but if you ask they to engrave the company logo on the price triples or they are not interested, just wanting to block as much out as possible.
Can't blame them a 7KW Bystronic with self loading and twin beds is about 70 pence short of half a million quid.
That's what the little Roland engraver is for, drag engraving a company logo on these plates.
When I get setup Rob, scan one and sent the file down, don't bother with scan2cad VCarve pro can convert a picture anyway. Do you one on a cornflake box.
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Do you one on a cornflake box.
:lol: :lol: :lol: no experience spared :Doh:
Dose Vcarve do a better job of converting an BW image to DFX than Scan2cad ?
Rob
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Thinks so. send me a image / logo
john [at] stevenson-engineers.co.uk and I'll send you the DXF back
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Will do John :thumbup:
Rob
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,,,, whittled from a bit mystery metal .
...
Would the mystery metal be CHROME??
or is that just the camera lens?
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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No he's got a secret weapon,
He takes the bits down to Newcastle United's ground puts them on a trestle table and turns all the floodlights on.
That why they look shiny.
Can you laser cut ju-ju dolls ? :loco: :poke:
John S.
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:lol: :lol: :lol: its the camera Eric ,,,,,,,,,, no idea what steel it is ,,,,,,,,,was a free bit :med:
Some were i have never been in John ,,,,,,,, everyone in the street is raving on about my neighbour ,, Olivier Bernard ,,,, some football bloke ,, bet he cant weld :coffee:
:lol: :lol: :lol: do you reckon the laser would lop a finger off :scratch:
Rob
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Try it on yours ?
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Fantastic work and enjoying the banter ... have you been hacking bits off the angel of the north during the night? Looks quite good under all the rust!
I sort of want you to scrap the Chinese bits and make the rest of the machine yourself though!
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Try it on yours ?
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: not that stupid ,,,,,yet :palm:
Hi Nick ,,,,,,,,,,,were you bin ? ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Some days i wish i had started from scratch ,,,,,,,,,next one will be :dremel:
Well grabbed an hour or so in the shop tonight .Mounted block on the fixture plate i used to machine the table ends and set the job up on the face plate to machine the spigot that locates the block on the knee.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050129.jpg)
Ruffed the job out .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050139.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050143.jpg)
Had to leave it there for tonight and let the job cool down and check that nothing has moved as i was riving on.
Rob
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Looking great Rob :thumbup: :thumbup:
You can not beat a bit of "riving on"
John
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Riving!
Now, that's a term I'd forgotten. :scratch:
Tare-arsing is another one.......
Thanks for the memories! :thumbup:
David D
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Hi Rob, I thought if I stopped watching peoples projects I might find the time to do some of my own. But it didn't work, I'm too lazy :( !
Me and mates hear that term a lot when working on cars ... usually trying to get a rusty old bolt out or something!
Well one thing's for sure, this machine is going to be transformed! :bow:
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Hi Rob,
Do you mind me asking where you manage to acquire such large lumps of steel from?
I feel like I'm forever finding ways of building big parts by bolting little ones together, due to a shortage of large stock.
I rummage around the local scrapyard and the offcuts sections of some of the metal suppliers, but rarely find any solid steel above 50-60mm dia either as square or round.
Cheers,
Rich
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Tare-arsing is another one.......
David D
:lol: :lol: :lol: forgot about that one David :headbang: :headbang:
Hi Nick ,,,,,,,,,,,,, thought you may have finished that loco :poke: :)
Hi Rob,
Do you mind me asking where you manage to acquire such large lumps of steel from?
I feel like I'm forever finding ways of building big parts by bolting little ones together, due to a shortage of large stock.
I rummage around the local scrapyard and the offcuts sections of some of the metal suppliers, but rarely find any solid steel above 50-60mm dia either as square or round.
Cheers,
Rich
Hi Rich ,,,,,,,,,,,, All my stock is scrounged ,i am luck in that my job gets me into a few places were getting hold of 8"x12"x24" lump of scrap steel is not a problem ask John DB LOL , I also do work for a metal supplier on the valley so i get to raid ,or a better word would be rape there scrap skips LOL .
Working with forklift trucks means i have access to any amount of say 50mmx100mm by about 400mm long , I cut the back section of the fork out, between the hanger .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030488.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030490.jpg)
ending up with a very usable lump of tough steel . :)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050031.jpg)
I also when i can be arsed strip the rods from hydraulic cylinders , maybe its just me but when i look at something i think what usable material is there for me hidden within .
just noticed your just down the road from me ,,,,,, Have you tried Grievsons scrap yard on Station road walker ?
Rob
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I also when i can be arsed strip the rods from hydraulic cylinders , maybe its just me but when i look at something i think what usable material is there for me hidden within .
Rob
Oy! How do you process hydraulic cylinder rods? They are hard chromed? Turn under it and use juicy steel under? What kind of material it is?
Pekka
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I also when i can be arsed strip the rods from hydraulic cylinders , maybe its just me but when i look at something i think what usable material is there for me hidden within .
Rob
Oy! How do you process hydraulic cylinder rods? They are hard chromed? Turn under it and use juicy steel under? What kind of material it is?
Pekka
Hi Pekka
Yes its hard chrome same gear as ballscrews etc ,,, just turn under the chrome ,, no idea what grade of steel ,,, turns fine :thumbup:
The cylinder tubes come in handy too :med:
Rob
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Hydraulic cylinder rods are induction hardened so only the skin is hard - once you're through that it's esy eough to turn. Only trouble you'll get is if there are any drillings in it coz you'll the interrupted cut in the hard skin will break your inserts.
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A bit more done tonight ,,,,,,,,,,,,,did naff all last night :palm:
Finished the turning on the block .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050146.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050147.jpg)
The spigot is a nice snug fit in the knee .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050151.jpg)
Still a bit to do :dremel:
Pondering which way to mount the motor .
The lazy way ,straight out using a coupling .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050152.jpg)
Or stick it under the knee ,belt and pulleys ,,,,,,,,,more machining.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050155.jpg)
Rob
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You know yourself how it should be mounted :Doh: :Doh:
John
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just noticed your just down the road from me ,,,,,, Have you tried Grievsons scrap yard on Station road walker ?
Rob
Hi Rob,
I know Grivesons but never been in. Might have to pop in one day.
Funny you should mention forklifts, I work just opposite Permat in Camperdown, I might have a word with the lads there about any surplus forks! They seem to deal with some huge machines, saw one the other day which looked like it could lift a house.
I think I just need to "up my game" on scrap metal collection :clap:
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Another beautifully done piece, Rob. Someday afar off, some guy will be looking at this mill and think to himself;
"Wow, a real machinist has had his way with this thing".
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Nah - they'll say 'they don't make Chinese stuff now like they used to' :D
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Nah - they'll say 'they don't make Chinese stuff now like they used to'
Well, they never have. ; )
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Cheers Lads :beer:
Dean ,,, our they may say what the F%$k was he thinking :loco: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Well finished the machine work to the Y axis block , well all bar a few holes for the motor mounts .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050162.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050161.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050169.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050170.jpg)
I slapped the knee back onto the mill and there is enough room or the Y axis motor to fit underneath , so i may as well mount the X axis motor under the table , i will loose a tad, 30mm of travel , but the machine will have a much smaller foot print and it gets rid of those couplings Mr JS said were **** LOL . So i have a weee bit more machining to do :headbang:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050174.jpg)
Rob
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I wish my parts came out that nice... :drool:
I swear, you must have machinist elves living under your workbench. Nice work my friend. :bow:
Eric
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I don't mind the perfect surface finish - I'm guessing most of this is done on the shaper, and I believe shapers give fabulous finishes. So I can cope with that.
What I can't get my head around is those radiused corners. They are perfect. Perfect. Every single one of them. Smooth, shiny, consistent and not a hint of a ridge* where the cutter was 0.0001" out of position either on the X or Z axis. Rob how the f****k are you doing that?!?
I am not worthy: (http://helmies.org.uk/AllHailTheKing.gif)
So, I tried to get a finish even close to resembling yours. And my lathe spat its chuck at me. I can't say I blame it...
* There's only one thing I can produce which is smooth, shiny, consistent and without ridges. And it sure ain't metal. :doh:
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I swear, you must have machinist elves living under your workbench. Nice work my friend. :bow:
Eric
Close Eric ,,,,,,,, i have a midget helper that dose al the work :lol:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030493.jpg)
Thanks Ade ,,,,,,,, I used the HZ mill to do the radius ,then a few licks with a file , very fine file, two of the rads were completely filed ,the two that run up to the bolt flange ,using a rad gauge to check :dremel:
Rob
PS no shaper work on this part :palm:
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It is all true Ade
I have seen him file a radius before :clap: :clap: :thumbup: :bow: :bow:
That is a great photograph rob :D :D
I have a couple of little helpers as well :Doh: :Doh:
John
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well dun rob keep it up
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I swear, you must have machinist elves living under your workbench. Nice work my friend. :bow:
Eric
Close Eric ,,,,,,,, i have a midget helper that dose al the work :lol:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1030493.jpg)
Thanks Ade ,,,,,,,, I used the HZ mill to do the radius ,then a few licks with a file , very fine file, two of the rads were completely filed ,the two that run up to the bolt flange ,using a rad gauge to check :dremel:
Rob
PS no shaper work on this part :palm:
Is that a steel boiler I spot on the floor behind you're little helper ?
Stew
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Thanks John n Bob :beer:
Hi Stew , it is a boiler for a 4" Tasker tractor ,something i started way back before the boiler regs changed , meaning now you have to be a coded welded :palm: , all the plate , tube ,welding rods are boiler spec (with paper work), just not me LOL .Actually over spec i used 5/16 pate and tube instead of 1/4 .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P7170014.jpg)
So it just sits there getting in the way , the drawings for the engine are very poor too, lots of mistakes :(
Rob
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That looks a very nicely built boiler Rob Pity about the change of regs, rendering it US, don't supose ther's a way round it.
You can use it as a door stop or a paper weight :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Drawing errors is something of a perenial headache, with models, just got to read ME to see that, but I look at it this way sorting out the errors is just part of the game that makes the hobby interesting, my experience from industry is that drawing errors are not unusual:- come across some howlers in my time.
Stew
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It is still use able , for my own use , just could not sell it , or i could get coded ,all welds have been crack tested ,all passed , the thing is i weld jobs at work that operate at a much higher pressure 3000psi :bang: , I may turn it into a Portable engine .
There are drawing mistakes and mistakes , when i complained about the drawings , i got a letter back from the lad who did the drawings saying they were fine , then a week latter Camden books sent me an error list 1 and 1/2 sides of A4 ,so the drawings are good REALLY ! , so now that i have CAD i may re-draw it and do a copper boiler .
Meccano ,, actually put mistakes in there build instructions to get you to think :med:
Rob
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Rob, you don't have to be coded, just submit some test welds to an independant boiler inspector (not a club inspector) and they will test and I'm sure yours will pass then you will have a legal boiler. It will cost a bit but not as much as buying a ready made boiler.
Was chatting to someone yesterday at tehe Guildford show and a new copper boiler for my 2" Fowler is £2200 thats a 50% increase since I bought mine.
J
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Hi Jason
Now that has brightened my day up , i will look into that cheers :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :beer: i thought i was doomed .
"2" Fowler is £2200" wow ,but still worth it , when you take into consideration the time and materials , the price of copper has rocketed and the Silver solder bill for a boiler that size would be a few quid , also not everyone has the equipment to heat such large lumps of copper . No rust to deal with .
Thanks Rob ,,,,,,,,BIG smiles
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Retrospective approval is likely to be tricky. It only shows what your welds are like now - not necessarily what they were like when the boiler was welded. Test pieces are typically done before commencing manufacture - the approval of a welder will only be valid for a period of time for the particular weld procedure used.
If you do find a way forward, I'm sure others would be interested.
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Retrospective approval is likely to be tricky. It only shows what your welds are like now - not necessarily what they were like when the boiler was welded. Test pieces are typically done before commencing manufacture - the approval of a welder will only be valid for a period of time for the particular weld procedure used.
If you do find a way forward, I'm sure others would be interested.
I'm sure Rob wouldn't do this, but a less scrupulous person might be a bit economical with the truth over the fact that the boiler existed before the test weld was submitted, and delete any evidence that it had been made at an earlier date from internet forums (e.g. Madmodder) just in case either inspector happened to read them.
Andy
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Retrospective approval is likely to be tricky. It only shows what your welds are like now - not necessarily what they were like when the boiler was welded. Test pieces are typically done before commencing manufacture - the approval of a welder will only be valid for a period of time for the particular weld procedure used.
If you do find a way forward, I'm sure others would be interested.
Good point David , these rules an regs are enough to make you go mad , one year its OK to weld the job up yourself the next its not , same boiler in copper no such regs , anyone without any previous silver soldering experience/training can solder up the boiler , if it passed the hydro test its good to go .
I'm sure Rob wouldn't do this, but a less scrupulous person might be a bit economical with the truth over the fact that the boiler existed before the test weld was submitted, and delete any evidence that it had been made at an earlier date from internet forums (e.g. Madmodder) just in case either inspector happened to read them.
Andy
Hi Andy , yes there are a few unethical ways i could get round the problem , but i will not be going down that route I will play by the rules ,however maddening they are.
Rob ,,,,,not smiling LOL
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If commercially produced, the 'rules' are independent of material - it's the Pressure Equipment Directive that would apply, classification is based purely on Fluid Type, Max Working Pressure and Contained Volume. PED specifically mentions 'Permanent Jointing' in its Essential Safety Requirements - this is usually interpreted as Welding, but would (almost certainly) include Silver Soldering.
By its very nature, Silver Soldering shouldn't lead to any nasty deterioration of materials properties of Copper - Inappropriate welding procedures in Steel can leave problems with heat affected zones or embrittled material. Silver Soldering of Copper therefore probably doesn't need such tight controls (It is hard to imagine a brittle failure of a copper boiler).
Steam generators are especially hazardous, so have their own classification chart in PED.
I believe that a document was drawn up some years ago in consultation with the HSE as a Model Engineer's / Society's 'sensible guide' to how to comply with the spirit of PED, but avoiding too much bureaucracy. I have no idea of the current status of such a document. [EDIT - here is a link to a 2004 version of said document http://www.alanstepney.info/HSE.pdf , it refers to a mix of PED and PSSR. It does require a 'competent welder' but gives no guidance on what that might be. Edit ends ]
I do some work for companies that have to comply with PED - the whole system is quite a pain for any 'one off' even when there isn't any 'permanent jointing' involved.
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Thanks David
Very interesting document , so going by what is written i can weld up my own boiler ,all the plans specify are the material and to be welded by a competent person.
I wonder if the document still stands .
Silver solder joints can be overheated and can also have a lack of penetration ,leading to a bad joint . overheating the copper can also have an adverse affect on the copper too .
Rob
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'Competent Person' also required for silver soldering of copper. The interesting point is defining/demonstrating competence.
Copper/Silver Solder has far less potential for catastrophic brittle failure than steel. Failure still possible but likely to be less dramatic than is possible with steel.
Does anyone know of an updated version of the document I linked to ?
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The "Blue book" would be the best document in the UK and the Australian codes are very good, they have one each for Copper, steel and Duplex boilers.
Also mention of test welds here
http://www.16mm.org.uk/newsite/insurance/Examinaton_Testing_of_Boilers_Nov_2008.pdf
The two things that worry me about your boiler are the fact you have ground down the welds and all those dummy stays. On all the steel boilers I've seen the welds are left as is and any dummy rivits added to the hornplates or false throatplate never into the actual boiler.
J
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The two things that worry me about your boiler are the fact you have ground down the welds and all those dummy stays. On all the steel boilers I've seen the welds are left as is and any dummy rivits added to the hornplates or false throatplate never into the actual boiler.
J
You presumed wrong about the stays Jason ,dummy stays what never , screw through both plates and riveted on the outside , welded in the fire box .As the drawings states.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P7160013.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P7170023.JPG)
Dose it not look more like it should do with the weld on the back head ground and riveted, more authentic ?
Rob
Edit ,,, and the material used is 2mm thicker than required .
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Photos like that from throughout construction should be very helpful to show the inspector stuff that you can't see now (e.g. weld preps).
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Photos like that from throughout construction should be very helpful to show the inspector stuff that you can't see now (e.g. weld preps).
Photo's of Rob's workmanship generally are more than enough to convince me that the boiler is sound (not that I know anything about boilers)
He doesn't appear to bodge anything :)
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Hi Guys,
The aim is to get away from any Blue book or model engineering activities and join the real world, where the is an element of sense left, just. A real world boiler cert is just as valid as a model one.
Do you have to, in fact, claim "new build" can't you just let the tester assume it is old and let him do his ultra sonic thickness tests and hydraulic, then steam tests?
Ned
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I think this thread should get an award for the widest gap of discussion subject matter.
All the way from hi-tech computer machine control to steam boiler construction. Yay!! :clap: :clap: :clap:
Now, back to the mill conversion! :)
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Hi David ,, yes i do have a few photos (ye oldey type film ) of the weld prep and route welds etc , i must get round to the scanning them into the computer.
Thank you Bill .
Hi Ned ,I could give it ago , but i will have a dig around and see what other info i can finned first .
:lol: :lol: :lol: Dickey ,,,,,,, this thread dose ramble a bit :Doh:
Rob
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yes i do have a few photos (ye oldey type film )
I bet everything will still be nice and shiny - even in sepia :D :D
:whip: :whip: Come on mate, back to work on the mill - seeing as you're doing such a grand job of it :clap: :clap:
:beer:, Arnold
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Hi Arnold :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: wonder were i can get my Daguerreotype processed :scratch:
Cheers mate , i am working on it , resisting all other temptations , well nearly all :palm:
Rob
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Hi Rob,
Newbie here. Excellent thread. I have a Mford version of this machine and plan to convert it.
A couple of questions.
Are you going to replace the Z axis screw with a ball screw?
Are you going to counter balance the weight of the knee ie with a gas spring?
TIA
Bob
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Hi And Welcome too Madmodder Bob :thumbup:
Yes i am replacing the Z axis screw with a 25mm 5mm Pitch ball screw , i am using a 12Nm motor 2:1 reduction . Allot more power than i need , so there should be no need to counter balance the knee IF i have my sums correct :palm:
Rob
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Thanks for the welcome & replies Rob.
I noted you were using 12Nm motors. As part of my initial experimentation into steppers and drivers, I fitted a 3Nm motor to the existing X feedscrew with 1:1 drive as a power feed and that is just adequate.
With the lower friction of ball screws and 12Nm I reckon you will have loads-a-power for X & Y.
I'm envious of your workshop facilities. I'll be trying to do my conversion with only a ML7RB (plus angle grinder :lol:) for any machine ops that I forget to do before disabling the Myford VMC.
Based on the shortage of space that you experienced with 25mm screws/nuts, I think I might use 20mm x 4 or 5mm screws.
The machine will only be for hobby use so I hope this will be adequate.
Did you get everything from Zapp? Would you use them again especially thinking of poor documentation with some items?
Apologies for all the Q's - I'll try and keep them to the minimum but there seem to be few write-ups on conversions of this machine.
My area of expertise is in induction motors so if I can return the favour anytime, feel free to ask.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/bob.minchin/Induction%20motors%20-%20Issue2.pdf
Bob
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Hi Bob
Now that is a very well written motor document ,lots of info , i can see it coming in hand on phase two of the CNC conversion , when i change /mod the head of the machine . Thanks for sharing . :med:
no problem about the questions , fire away i will try my best to answer them .
Being lazy i did do a one stop shop at Zapp ,, bought the motors,drivers ,PSU,BOB, pendant,screws, and nuts from them , at the time they were the cheapest for most of the kit , I found there service to be spot on , everything was VERY well packed and they were very willing to help with any queries i had over the phone .Looks like there not too far away from you .
As to the documentation i cant really fault it , Driver manual and BOB manuals are great , yes the pendant info is a tad iffy, but not hard to work out .
The belts ,pulleys,bearings i am just getting local .
20mm screws will be fine for the XY , but things will still be tight ,there is not allot of difference in the nut size , thats why i went for the largest i could get in , also there is less force required to move a 25x5 screw than a 20x5 screw , there is loads of room for 25mm or larger on the Z .
I hope take the time to share your CNC conversion with us here :poke:
Rob
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Hi Rob,
Thanks for your kind words.
I think that the standard you have set during your conversion will be soooo much better than what I will achieve but yes I will do a write up from time to time in a separate thread. I've been taking a few work in progress photos already.
I have just added a 1200N adjustable gas spring on the Z axis and have now balanced the table with a vice fitted and a few blocks of steel to represent a workpiece.
I had previously estimated the weight of the knee to be about 100kg (bathroom scales under the Z nut :bugeye:)
It felt very strange to put more effort in to lower the table than raise it before letting some gas out from the spring.
I now need about 6Nm torque to move it either up or down using the standard feedscrew and the helical gear drive.
I am just about to order a 12Nm motor and a 2:1 ish belt drive. I realise the motor rating is the holding torque rather than the driving torque. If it is not man enough, I can put in a ballscrew instead or apply the drive direct to the screw to loose the gearing losses.
Zapp do seem to carry just about everything I'll need and as you say they are nearby if I do need to visit.
Cheers
Bob
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Hi Bob
Any chance of a photo or two of your gas spring set up ?
Drew up the X,Y motor mounts
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_two~0.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_Motor%20mount%20front.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_Motor%20mount%20rear.jpg)
The Y axis motor mount will be 30mm longer between centres so the motor can clear the underside of the knee casting .I was going to make them both the same as the Y axis ,but the X looked naff with the longer mount
Rob ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and JS no they will not be blue LOL
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Looking good as usual Rob, how long would it take you to draw out something like that ? is it quite quick once you know what you are doing ? I look forward to seeing them getting machined . Cheers Mick.
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Very nice drawings Rob :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
I would have thought you would have made them a bit more "shiney like"
John
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Hi Bob
Any chance of a photo or two of your gas spring set up ?
I've started a new thread Rob so as not to clutter yours.
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=7345.0
Bob
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Hi Mick ,I actually have no idea how long it took to draw :palm: i just do a bit here and there . :smart:
Made a start on the motor mounts today , slow start , the closest stock i had to hand was a length of 4"x1" so I copped a couple of lengths off to make the mounts from .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050186.jpg)
Drilled and counter bored a couple of holes in a part of the job that will be machined away later so i could bolt the work down ,
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050187.jpg)
I was going to mill the thickness of the bar down ,BUT my four inch HZ slab mill needs a sharpen :palm: ,So i opted to bolt them to the lathe face plate for machining .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050207.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050190.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050208.jpg)
Now the job could be mounted on the mill to machine the width and length to size , I used two ring parallels (made up name LOL) actually two inner bearing races ,true precision tools from scrap :med:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050210.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050211.jpg)
Mounting the work like this means i could machine all round the part in one go ,making all the edges parallel and square .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050213.jpg)
Rob
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Mounting the work like this means i could machine all round the part in one go ,making all the edges parallel and square .
Rob
And do the chrome plate all at one go...............................................................
Where's that freeking Ju-ju doll ? Pass me that big bodkin needle...........................
John S.
-
Mounting the work like this means i could machine all round the part in one go ,making all the edges parallel and square .
Rob
And do the chrome plate all at one go...............................................................
Where's that freeking Ju-ju doll ? Pass me that big bodkin needle...........................
John S.
Looking at that lump of" scaly shite being "transformed in to chrome plate has me feeling quite sickly
John
-
lol
-
LOL too :lol:
-
Mounting the work like this means i could machine all round the part in one go ,making all the edges parallel and square .
Rob
And do the chrome plate all at one go...............................................................
Where's that freeking Ju-ju doll ? Pass me that big bodkin needle...........................
John S.
Looking at that lump of" scaly ****e being "transformed in to chrome plate has me feeling quite sickly
John
I'm out of words.........
Not unusual, I know......
Most early mornings, I sit here reading yesterday's edition of the Wilson Chronicle......
And....... All I can do, is shake me head, and smile..........
Love it! :D
David D
-
Mounting the work like this means i could machine all round the part in one go ,making all the edges parallel and square .
Rob
And do the chrome plate all at one go...............................................................
Where's that freeking Ju-ju doll ? Pass me that big bodkin needle...........................
John S.
Looking at that lump of" scaly ****e being "transformed in to chrome plate has me feeling quite sickly
John
I'm out of words.........
Not unusual, I know......
Most early mornings, I sit here reading yesterday's edition of the Wilson Chronicle......
And....... All I can do, is shake me head, and smile..........
Love it! :D
David D
I love reading the Wilson Chronicle as well. I like how they sometimes manage to put all the pages into 1. :lol: :lol:
Cheers :beer:
Don
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Thanks Lads :beer: :wave:
Well did a spell in the shop tonight a bit more work on the motor mounts , I am using my 20 year old RF25 mill/drill to bore the mounts.
I used a hole saw to remove most of the material , witch left about 1/8" for boring , using the hole saw also means i dont have to move the head on the machine and loose alignment .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050220.jpg)(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050221.jpg)
Bored to size , finish is Ok for an old not very ridged machine .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050222.jpg)
Thats the screw end done .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050219.jpg)
The motor end was done much the same way , just is an oval , bored both ends which leaves a little bit between the two too mill away .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050224.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050226.jpg)
I use mild steel bar ground up for parallels so it dose not matter if i machine into them .
Rob
-
Rob...
Can I come and stay for some machining lessons? :beer:
Eric
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Bored to size , finish is Ok for an old not very ridged machine .
I supose the finish is ok :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:
It would appear to be spot on size as well :D :D :D
Glad to see you are using propper material :thumbup: :thumbup:
Not aluminium :clap: :clap: :clap:
John
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I use mild steel bar ground up for parallels so it dose not matter if i machine into them .
Rob
Man after me own heart, can't see what all the fuss is about hardened and ground parallels accurate to a given size to the nth micron.
Much prefer stock size ground down to a matching set. Plus points are if you use a 1" wide parallel it won't allow it to grip a 1" bar, toss up which one is held the tightest but if you grind 5 or 10 thou off to clean up they will always grip an 1" bar if you do have an accident it's doesn't cost you an expensive tool and possible harm a job.
This tip is only for the unwashed, that twat in the yellow mac obviously knows all this so I don't know why I waste my time posting instaed of making more Ju-ju dolls.
John S.
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Aha, your secret is revealed Rob!
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050222.jpg)
I see you are craftily using the hidden cutting edge on the back of the insert! :)
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Aha, your secret is revealed Rob!
I see you are craftily using the hidden cutting edge on the back of the insert! :)
Well spotted, Ade! :clap: :clap:
I just thought..... Summat don't look quite right, there? :scratch:
David D
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naw
he got it going backwards the mill that is
saves buying a left hand tool for the boring head
-
Nah! its how Rob gets his mirror finish - rubbing on the back of the tool! :lol:
-
No, Rob probably developed the negative in reverse.........
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Cheers lads :beer:
Been a bit slow of late :palm: , anyway did do a bit to the motor mounts .
Set up to round the corners , using the angle plate i made earlier and a stop , actually a cam roller from a fuel pump CAV i think .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050244.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050245.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050250.jpg)
once set its just a simple job to turn and flip part to do all four corners on both mounts .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050249.jpg)
Next the motor pocket , more cam rollers used to position the work on the mill .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050252.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050253.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050255.jpg)
Next the slots for the motor fixing screws . no DROs in my shop i use gauge blocks and the likes ,no battery's required , after using edge finder to locate position of first slot , lock X stops
for the slot length and Y stop for first slot position , move Y to next slot position and lock stop .
work fist position .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050316.jpg)
Second position .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050317.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050318.jpg)
Remove gauge blocks , that are set for the pitch of the slots , and slide job down .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050320.jpg)
Had a nice run up to Scotland today , picked up a new toy ,,,,, thanks Darren :beer:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050340.jpg)
must resist urge to fiddle with it :palm:
Rob
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Hi
Rob
Motor mounts are to the usuall standard :drool: :drool: :drool:
That lathe it has not got any hand wheels :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
John
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Nice work Rob!
I'll follow along....
Dave
-
'
OY! What's this?
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b159/deansofidaho/Roboy.jpg)
Whatter them humpy bumpy thingies? You gonna tell us it's supposed to be like that,
or did you farm this piece out to the local chop shop?
:hammer: :scratch:
:) Nudge, nudge. Wink, wink, & all that jazz...
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Thats where he photoshopped the last operation.
Well spotted Dean I didn't think this latest Ju-ju doll was working, obviously is, just needs tweaking a bit or a bigger bodkin. :zap:
-
hi rob work is brill as per that lathe is too smale for youe work shop it will go wel imn mine i think you need to chuck sum stuff out when do you wont me to fech the traler up :) :) :)
-
'
OY! What's this?
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b159/deansofidaho/Roboy.jpg)
Whatter them humpy bumpy thingies? You gonna tell us it's supposed to be like that,
or did you farm this piece out to the local chop shop?
:hammer: :scratch:
:) Nudge, nudge. Wink, wink, & all that jazz...
Thats his big slot to match the small slot , no point in having a round hole and slots the motor has to be able to move
Stuart
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What Rob needs is a CNC mill to make that hole ! :lol: :lol: :lol:
Bob
-
Thats his big slot to match the small slot , no point in having a round hole and slots the motor has to be able to move
Stuart
Not talking about the "slot". Have a peek at the text... : )
-
Thats where he photoshopped the last operation.
Well spotted Dean I didn't think this latest Ju-ju doll was working, obviously is, just needs tweaking a bit or a bigger bodkin. :zap:
Oh, so it's wicked ju-ju? I always knew it was a bad thing if grown men played with dollies. This proves it!
-
Thats his big slot to match the small slot , no point in having a round hole and slots the motor has to be able to move
Stuart
Not talking about the "slot". Have a peek at the text... : )
nither am I the bumpy bits in the main hole are the result of lengthening the large hole to make a BIG slot to allow movement two big holes with centre offset by say 10mm
Stuart
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nither am I the bumpy bits in the main hole are the result of lengthening the large hole to make a BIG slot to allow movement two big holes with centre offset by say 10mm
Yes, but he SHOULD have milled them away so the edge of the slot was the usual baby-soft chrome-plated wonderfinish...
But, for some reason, Rob chose to not only take the half-baked route, but after his previous work dared to show it in public! Either that, or the Stevenson Curse is finally taking effect...
-
But, for some reason, Rob chose to not only take the half-baked route,
I suspect it's an homage to the effect of the cold weather on the Women's Beach Volley Ball
-
nither am I the bumpy bits in the main hole are the result of lengthening the large hole to make a BIG slot to allow movement two big holes with centre offset by say 10mm
Yes, but he SHOULD have milled them away so the edge of the slot was the usual baby-soft chrome-plated wonderfinish...
Bingo! That's why I think he farmed this piece out to the local chop shop. You know... The place next
to the little greasy taco shop down the road. ; )
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: You lads crack me up :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: piss taking TWATS :lol: :lol: :lol:
JS and his Voodoo knocked out my home BB Sunday ,,,,,,,,back up now :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
A few strokes of the file sorted out the BUMP :)
Y axis mount just about done .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050345.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050346.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050350.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050353.jpg)
need to re drill the fixing holes in the motor , should be 6mm , but are actually 5.5mm :palm:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050354.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050358.jpg)
Rob
Women's beach volley ball ,, were ,when :drool:
-
Looking real class Rob :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Have you tickled them with the surface grinder :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
-
oooooo nice
-
Now, that's much mo betta, Rob!
-
I liked the bumpy bits , it proved that Rob was a mortal being like the rest of us, :D
Stuart
-
a WEE bit more done , X motor mount finished and finished up all the work too the table ends , had to re work the RH table end as the motor was original going to go on the LH end of the table straight out ,cant mount motor underneath table on the left as it would twat Z motor , RH table end had only machined for one bearing to carry the end of the screw .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050378.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050386.jpg)
Better make a start on the Z motor mount :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050384.jpg)
Anyone no how to change the position of the "Home position" on the Mach3 screen as is it is bottom left , i would like it top right ?
Cheers Rob
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Turn the freeking screen round.
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Looking good Rob :thumbup: :thumbup: , its going to like very neat once its done, much better than the motor sticking out option you mentioned. :clap: :clap:
Cheers Mick.
-
Rob, what sort of capacity do you expect the machine to have in terms of cutter size and DOC on various materials? Looks like some hefty motors being used there.
-
Hi
Rob
That is looking really neat and compact :thumbup: :thumbup:
I dont think you will have any problems with the mountings flexing :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
At this rate you should have it finished to do the valve cover on my mill engine :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
-
Cheers Lads :beer:
Rob, what sort of capacity do you expect the machine to have in terms of cutter size and DOC on various materials? Looks like some hefty motors being used there.
Never gave it much thought Pete , but i bet it will snap cutter easy with me at the helm :lol: :lol: :lol: ,, the limiting factor will be the HP at the spindle .
Hi
Rob
At this rate you should have it finished to do the valve cover on my mill engine :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
Second job mate :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
Rob,
Very nice :thumbup: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
-
Hey Rob - looking really good (as usual).
-
Unreal workmanship in here. I just love seeing your work :beer:
-
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050378.jpg)
Rob, Isn't your X axis motor seriously limiting the X travel on your set up??
I've just been measuring my 6 x26 and at the left most table position, the right hand end of the table casting, is level (within a knat's cock) with the right hand side of the knee casting.
It looks to me that your X motor will hit the knee about 60mm before that point?? :bang:
This is my machine at extreme left travel
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n313/9fingersphotos/VMC%20Modifications/xtravel1.jpg)
and the DRO showing the max travel
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n313/9fingersphotos/VMC%20Modifications/IMG_1898.jpg)
sorry about the poor photos
Cheers
Bob
-
Cheers Lads :beer:
Hi Bob ,in a word Nope as is I have 420mm :)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050394.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050397.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050396.jpg)
If i had mounted the motor direct I would of had another 65mm of travel
Rob
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Ok I think I've solved it. My table casting is only 610 long so more like a 6 x 24 :bang:
My 426 mm travel is however at the expense of part of the dovetail not being engaged but I hope that will not be a problem.
Cheers
Bob
-
Hi Bob , cant see it being a problem :thumbup:
Got to ask are you planing on making 16" long parts (allowing for tool width ) cant see me needing something that long ,and if i did I would probably get/make a bigger mill :dremel:
Rob
-
I used to work on panels for electronic equipment in 19" racks.
I always had to re jig to do the 'other end'. A right PITA
I quite often have a vice on one end of the table and use the other half for mounting stuff direct onto the table.
I can always cope with some extra length :lol:
Bob
-
I can always cope with some extra length :lol:
Bob
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: me too :Doh:
Rob
-
I used to work on panels for electronic equipment in 19" racks.
I always had to re jig to do the 'other end'. A right PITA
I quite often have a vice on one end of the table and use the other half for mounting stuff direct onto the table.
I can always cope with some extra length :lol:
Bob
Bob , you need to squeeze a Brideport into that garage of yours <G>
AWEM
-
Fancy meeting you in here!
I've not seen the floor in that garage for years Andrew! :lol: :lol:
Bob
-
Not allot of actual work on the mill done this week , but i did crack out the etch a sketch and doodle up a drawing for the Z motor mount .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_1.jpg)
Suppose i better get up early the morn and zap some plate together before i get dragged to the beach for the day :palm:
Rob
-
Beach ??
Beach in fooking Yorkshire ? Give over, next thing you will tell us you have indoor privy's
-
Give me swarf in my clothing over sand in my arse crack any day of the week! Oh wait, you guys don't have sand on your beaches do you? Just pebbles.
-
Hey Rob, that's some fantastic looking work and I can't wait to see this project finished. Especially because I want to see you get that lathe up and running! It was the first lathe I ever wrote a program for in my tech class some twenty years ago! I was a bit sad to see it go but it has definitely gone to a good and worthy home and I know you will do just as good a job on it as you are doing with your mill conversion.
Excellent stuff!
daz
-
Fancy meeting you in here!
I've not seen the floor in that garage for years Andrew! :lol: :lol:
Bob
Oh I get arround you know !!!! (BTW that Dominion Combination Woodworking machine is doing sterling service now I've re-built it)
AWEM
-
Cheers Daz :thumbup:
Funny enough it was the first manual lathe i owned :dremel: , I am looking forward to cracking on with it , at least i dont have to make any parts for the lathe :ddb: :ddb: , had the spindle motor spinning the other day :zap: , just scratching my head on how to get a Digital signal converted to analog , it will give me something to do over the winter :ddb: :ddb:
Give me swarf in my clothing over sand in my arse crack any day of the week! Oh wait, you guys don't have sand on your beaches do you? Just pebbles.
:scratch: All sand here mate , friggin miles of the stuff , wish it was pebbles , much easier to remove from the crack of ones butt :lol: :lol: ,, At the end of the day at least wor sand is round the outside of the country , were it should be :poke: :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
Been reading this whole thread in one go and I'm impressed! :thumbup: Please keep the pictures coming :clap:
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Cheers Thewho :beer:
Not allot done today , to busy building sandcastles :palm:
Did get the bracket welded up and cooked .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050401.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050407.jpg)
At least i can start machining it tomorrow night :dremel:
Rob
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And after a bit of a clean up and milled square :dremel:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050420.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050424.jpg)
Hopefully i will get the chance to poke a few holes in the mount tomorrow.
Rob
-
Looking usual Rob! :lol:
Good luck with the hole poking...... :thumbup:
David D
-
Am baffled! :scratch: Is that bracket made from the flat bits of steel a couple of photos earlier? How come it's got perfect radii etc? What did the 'cooking' do? Relieve stresses?
It's the best fabrication I've ever seen in my life! :bow:
-
Am baffled! :scratch: Is that bracket made from the flat bits of steel a couple of photos earlier? How come it's got perfect radii etc? What did the 'cooking' do? Relieve stresses?
It's the best fabrication I've ever seen in my life! :bow:
Nick
Rob not only has a magic camera for his shiny pictures but has a magic oven as well to melt welds into perfect radii. :lol: :lol:
I'd like to sneak into his shop and watch him at work sometime. I bet it would be a real treat. :D :D
Cheers :beer:
Don
-
I need to start cooking my weldments!
-
Am baffled! :scratch: Is that bracket made from the flat bits of steel a couple of photos earlier? How come it's got perfect radii etc? What did the 'cooking' do? Relieve stresses?
It's the best fabrication I've ever seen in my life! :bow:
He clearly cut three bits of metal to make it look like he was welding it up, then he melted them down and sandcast it.
-
:lol: :lol: cheers lads :beer:
Hi Nick ,,,I heat treated the job to remove any welding stress and to make sure there would be no hard spots in the welds as i am machining through a few of them .
:lol: :lol: Hole poking nearly finished David :lol:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050440.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050437.jpg)
I think whom ever, cant really say machined the cut out in the knee must have been pissed .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050443.jpg)
Mount fits something like this .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050445.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050444.jpg)
Still needs fixing holes drilled and de-buring :dremel:
Rob
-
Rob,
Really does look good :thumbup: :clap: :bow:
:beer:
DaveH
-
It'll be a shame to use it, if it ever gets finished. :loco:
-
Hey Rob!
Why can't you produce a magnificent hockey stick effect like that, just once in a while?? :Doh:
I think whom ever, cant really say machined the cut out in the knee must have been pissed .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050443.jpg)
Rob
Only joking'......... :lol: :lol:
David D
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: I ITS A QUEER SHAPE David :bang: :bang: :bang: :bang:
Well its been a slow couple of weeks with regards working on the mill ,had to get all my out standing jobs out of the way at work ready for my holidays and move a few machines around in the shop to make room for more toys , me thinks i need a bigger shop :(
anyway i did finish up the Z axis belt tensioner today :dremel: , John DB answered the call for a pulley for the job , he brought me a selection form different makes of cars , i settled on a timing belt tensioner pulley for an Audi A3 .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050464.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050465.jpg)
The tensioner arm needs to be cranked so the belt passes through the original hole in the knee casting as i did not want to remove any more material from the knee in this area , it also gives me about 20% more belt contact with the Z motor pulley.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050495.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050493.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050496.jpg)
suppose i better crack on poking a few more holes in the mount so i can stick it to the knee .
Rob
-
It's about time you got some more done Rob! Looking good (as always).
-
Hmm! I must get round to posting something on my thread - I've quite a collection of parts made now too.
Like you, I shall be enlarging the opening in the upper face of the knee to allow the use of a bigger ball nut and realised that will leave a gaping hole for crap to fall onto the y axis ballscrew. My ballnuts are 92mm long (not wishing to brag!) and so the current sliding plate scheme will not fit in.
I've investigated spring based protectors and moulded bellows but neither that I've found will compress sufficiently to not limit the Y axis travel.
Have you got a planned solution for this little problem yet? the best I've come up with is a miniature 'roller blind' fixed between the saddle and the front of the knee
Bob
-
Hi Bob .
I am still contemplating that problem and i no what you mean, anything fitted between the saddle and column will decrease Y travel , having increased the length of the Y axis slot I am planning on moving the head out an inch or so .
Rob
-
It's about time you got some more done Rob! Looking good (as always).
Cheers , still loads to do , the machine stand is crap , looks like i will have to make a new one :zap:
Rob
-
Hi Bob .
I am still contemplating that problem and i no what you mean, anything fitted between the saddle and column will decrease Y travel , having increased the length of the Y axis slot I am planning on moving the head out an inch or so .
Rob
My VMC has a flexible sheet see http://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/VM_Milling_Machine.html to protect the rear end of the Y screw. It is pretty crude but effective and with a bit of bungee cord it can be held up out of the way and only 'costs' about 1.5mm of travel. I think the Warco/Chester might have had a similar solution but yours might have been removed.
The real problem that needs solving is the front portion of the screw when the table is moved towards the column.
There is an idea here but the big unknown to me is sourcing a suitable coolant tolerant material that will take sharp folds and yet remain flexible.
Bob
-
Hi Bob , canny video :thumbup: , getting the correct material a you say could be a problem , that why i may have a bash at making steel telescopic way covers .And concertina type really do trap swarf , well the ones on my Denford CNC did :bang: :bang:
Rob ,still pondering :palm:
-
Cough! Ahem! http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,7564.0.html (http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,7564.0.html) (http://www.stationary-engine.net/forum/images/smilies/whistle.gif)
For you Rob, it'd be gratis - I know the economy is shite up there, and besides, you did give me that hearth...
-
:lol: Cheers Ade thanks for the offer :thumbup:
I PM you if i need some rubber sheet , see how i get on with steel way covers :palm:
Rob
-
Hi
Rob
The belt tensioner looks to be up to standard
I like the blue / black finish :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
-
I go away for a couple of years ... plodding along in my own way in the dark ... lol ... gained bags of confidence ....
Then I find this thread .... !! Makes me feel like I've learn't knowt ..... :nrocks:
Hi Rob .... :thumbup:
-
well dun rob its cuming a long nice
-
I PM you if i need some rubber sheet , see how i get on with steel way covers :palm:
A man can never have enough rubber sheet :scratch: :palm: :lol:
Steel way covers look cool, I'll give you that. Will you be making them out of chrome as usual? :wack:
-
Hi Rob , good to see you back on the project posting , I thought the big bad wolf had got you :bugeye:. As John says the Blue/black finish looks good , just like factory part :clap: :thumbup:
cheers Mick.
-
cheers Lads :beer:
:lol: :lol: Ade ,,,,,,,,,nope stainless :)
Well thought all i had to do this morning was poke a few holes in the Knee to fix all the parts i have made , Z and Y bearing blocks not a problem then came the Z motor mount :bang: this face was not square nor flat :palm: .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050503.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050502.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050504.jpg)
**** no's what they used to machine this face :scratch: , So i ended up having to re machine this face .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050510.jpg)
wile on i cleaned up the jolly hockey stick hole too. :coffee:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050443.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050511.jpg)
Must admit the machining and build quality of my Chester 626 mill is utter crap :( , on a side note , any one with one of these machines dont even think about ordering spares ,as i will lay odds they will not fit your machine .
With that done i could now fit the Z motor mount .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050515.jpg)(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050518.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050512.jpg)
Must order a box of shorter M8 socket cap screws .
Rob
-
I've always fancied a 626 Rob, until this thread! I should know better as I am always comparing my Harrison lathe to the cheap chinese mill I have. Guess it's why they're comparatively cheap. Are there any decent makes you can buy new without breaking the bank?
Nick
-
HI Nick
You get what you pay for sort of , basically in my opinion you get a loosely assembled kit of roughly machined castings with cheap chat fasteners ,bearings and mystery metal etc , They probably make them as cheap as possible so the retailer can make bigger profits.
Y Lead screw nut lol ,, Looks like it was cast from old what nots .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050519.jpg)
Lead screws :lol: :lol: :lol: all three from my machine .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050520.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050521.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050522.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050523.jpg)
QUALITY MMMMMMMMMMM
**** me they cant even get a pad on a casting in the correct place .ITS OFF TO ONE SIDE :Doh:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050524.jpg)
How many 626 Z Nuts have given way , sending the table shooting to the ground . these imported machines are cheap for a reason , because there crap . Just my opinion of my machine .
Rob
-
HI Lads
A little more do today , nothing very exciting but its another job off the list , fabricated the belt/pulley covers from some 1.2mm sheet steel i had to hand :zap:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050531.jpg)
and after a quick clean up with a flap disc .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050533.jpg)
Rob
-
Excellent job Rob,... :coffee:
As usual... :bow:
-
You are doing great Rob :clap: :clap:
-
Is this a similar machine as compared to the ones Grizzly sells such as this one?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Vertical-Mill-with-Power-Feed/G0729 (http://www.grizzly.com/products/Vertical-Mill-with-Power-Feed/G0729)
I'm just wondering if the build quality is the same on these machines.
Thanks Dale P.
*fixed the link
-
Yes these are all generic Chaiwanese mills. As I understand it there are a number of foundries working to similar patterns and a number of engineering shops making mills. Various vendors then have them badged and 'extras' fitted to their spec.
Some vendors impose high levels of QC onto the suppliers and in UK there was one supplier, Myford, who reputedly stripped down the machines and checked them over. However they have now gone bust :bang:
I don't know the North American market in as much detail but I've not thought of Grizzly as a quality brand but much as Warco and Chester are in UK.
hth
Bob
-
Hi Rob , looks like mighty fine tig welding there :bow: :bow: :thumbup:, on the first shot I thought that was a solid block you were using to clamp the bits of sheet to keep your corners square lol, are you plating them :drool: :drool: or painting ?
Cheers Mick
-
Rob,
They do look nice :thumbup: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
-
Cracking job as usuall :bow: :bow:
I bet you could make a canny" backy tin " :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
John
-
thanks lads :beer:
I would have to agree with Bob , his Myford mill will be built to a far higher standard , John Doubleboost has a chester 626 and parts from my mill will not fit his , its as if they have built each and every machine as a one off , John has had to spend time stripping and fettling his machine .
Personally i would not touch another imported machine from the far east , I would rather spend my time repairing an old quality used machine than a brand new out of the box imported pile of crap . :coffee:
Hi Rob , looks like mighty fine tig welding there :bow: :bow: :thumbup:, on the first shot I thought that was a solid block you were using to clamp the bits of sheet to keep your corners square lol, are you plating them :drool: :drool: or painting ?
Cheers Mick
cheers Mick :beer: ,,,, :lol: :lol: :lol: probably paint :dremel:
Rob
-
lol giv over rob you love the chalinge
-
...Personally i would not touch another imported machine from the far east , I would rather spend my time repairing an old quality used machine than a brand new out of the box imported pile of crap . :coffee:...
Depends on your location I guess. The Japanese probably curse the Chinese machines from the West!
Either way, location doesn't change the quality job you are doing Rob :thumbup:
-
Hi Lads , well the machine base has been bugging me , poor quality ,made from bean tins lol , too low , no provision for coolant and not wanting to have a separate enclosure for the CNC controller and then having to fined some were to stick the computer , i decided to build a new base with a coolant tank built in , three separate compartments , one for the computer down the right hand side , with access to the rear of the computer , spindle switch gear in the front left compartment and the cnc gubbins with be in the left hand side .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050857.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050859.jpg)
All fabricated from 3mm and 4mm plate i had salvaged from here and there , so material cost was about zero . :med:
I still have to cut a hole in the top of the tray for the coolant pump and make the doors , dose any one no of a UK source for quarter turn latches ?
Rob
-
Cracking job as usual Rob.
Are these latched any good? http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/internal-door-latches/3478692/
Chrome plated to match your other machined parts :)
Bob
-
Cheers Bob ,,, thats the sort of thing ,but i should have said the type that uses a square /triangular /tee shaped key , the type fitted to steel enclosure boxes .
Rob
Edit , like the ones too the left in the photo .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/Quarter%20Turn%20Latch.png)
-
You might like these ones then?
http://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/cabinet-drawer-enclosure-locks/3410179/
Bob
-
Thats the type Bob , :thumbup:, now why the F00K could i not fined those on the RS site :bang: :bang:
:beer: Rob
-
Bit cheaper here
http://www.easylocks.co.uk/maxus-gas-meter-cam-lock-cam-locks-p-3510.html?gclid=CMOUipuahrMCFSTKtAodYBwA_Q
Just search "meter cupboard locks"
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Well Rob there has to be something that I can do better than you can :D
Bob
-
Thanks Jason :thumbup: , i would never have thought to do a search for meter cupboard locks :med:
Rob
-
Well Rob there has to be something that I can do better than you can :D
Bob
:lol: :lol: i am sure they have messed with the RS web site , do they still do the catalogues ? :palm:
Rob
-
If you want the latches that use the tapered square keys they are known as "budget locks" you should be able to weld them onto the back of the doors.
J
-
Well Rob there has to be something that I can do better than you can :D
Bob
:lol: :lol: i am sure they have messed with the RS web site , do they still do the catalogues ? :palm:
Rob
When I left work in 2009, they still did the paper version and it was 6-7 volumes A4 format by 150mm or so thick.
I've kept my account access but not been sent any catalogues since then.
Bob
-
If you want the latches that use the tapered square keys they are known as "budget locks" you should be able to weld them onto the back of the doors.
J
I do have 4 of those Jason , we use that type at work for battery box covers and side panels , had thought about using them ,but i think the other type look smarter .
Bob, They still have the paper ones in store at the trade counter , we used to get a set every year at work , I will ask next time i am in store . much easier to fined stuff LOL
Rob
-
Yup paper catalogs are in 4 volumes published twice per year
-
Hi Rob , no wonder you have been quiet , that must have taken some making, but worth it as looking spot on :bow: :bow: :clap: :clap: I am with you on the RS website even when I have the paper catalouge and see what Rs themselves call an item you still can not find it in the web version :palm: :bang:
Cheers Mick.
-
Yup paper catalogs are in 4 volumes published twice per year
good to here John, I would much rather look through the relevant volume , than look on the web site :palm:
Cheers Mick ,, aye cutting up the plate with an angle grinder took a bit of doing , i must get a plasma cutter . Photos dont show all the work that went into the inside of the base for the cable runs ect.
Rob
-
Well ...........get your camera inside lad .............. You knows we like photos :lol:....... as someone once said , no photos and it did not happen :lol: I bet you went through some grinding discs and will also have been removed from your neighbours Christmas card list too I bet :clap: I have got some of the bandy conduit stuff if you need some anyway Rob .
Cheers Mick.
-
It looks bigger in real life
Is like a maze inside
Would make a good ferret cage
John
-
What the hell? I take a leave of absence and while I'm away Rob's into it again! This is amazing mate. Just had a quick look to get a 'steel fix' and Wilso is at it again, amazing attention to detail mate. You really are an all round fabricator! Looks bloody great.
-
Gudday Rob :wave: good to see you stopping by mate .
Hope your still managing to get some shop time :poke:
Rob
-
Oh mate, I wish! Work has me travelling over the last 2 years now. Now i only get 1 full weekend at home so shop time is minimal at best, usually limited to repairing stuff but first I have to clean dust off everything. Did some ingotting a month ago, just to prove to myself that I still could! Loving what you are doing mate, I drop on from time to time, just to keep an eye on ya. Remember, I'm watching!
-
I had an idea that work was keeping you busy , you will have to slow up some day mate .
Sure would be good to see the dust blown off your engine build some day .
Rob
-
Thats the type Bob , :thumbup:, now why the F00K could i not fined those on the RS site :bang: :bang:
:beer: Rob
Because the "New Improved" RS web site is absolute rubbish! The one they had about 18 months ago at least worked. This one is riddled with loads of 'features' that don't work. I was on it today and the 'refine' features in searches just don't function.
AWEM
-
:lol: :lol: pleased its not just me :bang: yes the search was much better a couple of years back , with a row of drop down boxes to narrow the search .
Rob
-
BEFORE .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050861.jpg)
AFTER :)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1050863.jpg)
I had to rush the paint job and only paint were needed so i could mounted the mill on the base , due to needing the shop floor space ,picking up another mill tomorrow ,the one i should have converted to CNC :palm: ,i can finish the painting when ever , the only part of the original base worth keeping is the door handle, i will skip the rest .
Rob
-
That looks much better mate :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
It must be a 30 disc project that base :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: (30 slitting discs)
John
-
looks spot on Rob :bow:, will look more 'factory' than the factory one once doors etc fitted .................. I recon on 31 disc project .......... 30 slitting and 1 slipped :lol:
Cheers Mick
-
well dun rob
-
Rob,
That does look good :thumbup: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
-
Crisp........ :thumbup:
David D
-
Thats looking darn good Rob
:nrocks: :nrocks: :nrocks: :nrocks:
Crisp........ :thumbup:
David D
Yes please:- cheese and onion if you've got them.
:D
Stew
-
Thats looking darn good Rob
:nrocks: :nrocks: :nrocks: :nrocks:
Crisp........ :thumbup:
David D
Yes please:- cheese and onion if you've got them.
:D
Stew
Naahhh...... Just salty vinegar, Stew. (http://freesmileyface.net/smiley/food/eating-chips-17.gif) (http://freesmileyface.net/free-food-smileys.html)
David D
-
:lol: :lol: Thanks lads :beer:
Now i have allot of work on :bang: :bang: i need to move my shop around to fit my new mill in . This mill would have made a much better CNC conversion , more travel ,faster spindle speeds,larger table , 30int , and a dam site better built .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_20120915_140114.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_20120915_140137.jpg)
Comes with DRO , a load of tooling,power feed, all for allot less than an X3 mill . :med:
Rob
-
By 'ek Rob. That's a cracker! :bugeye:
Hope it's condition is as good as it's looks......... :thumbup:
"This mill would have made a much better CNC conversion".. I think yer timing was a bit off, Rob...... :doh:
David D
-
By 'ek Rob. That's a cracker! :bugeye:
Hope it's condition is as good as it's looks......... :thumbup:
"This mill would have made a much better CNC conversion".. I think yer timing was a bit off, Rob...... :doh:
David D
no no chaps - Rob has done the rough prototype on the Chester in this thread to gain experience, then he'll go on to do a proper job on the Viceroy ! :lol: :lol: :lol:
Dave
-
Hi David
Two things wrong with it , hi/ low lever is stuck in low and the power feed motor needs a re wined ( i am sure i can sneak that into a job at work ) , not to bad as i have to strip the machine anyway to move it , no marks on the table , the DRO second hand is worth more than what i payed for the machine , the DRO needs re fitting .
:lol: :lol: :lol: I if only we new what was round the conner :bang: :bang: :bang:
:lol: :lol: :lol: Dave , one CNC conversion is enough for now :Doh:
Rob
-
....... Dave , one CNC conversion is enough for now .......
But it'll be quicker the second time round because you can machine the parts on your first CNC ! :coffee:
Dave
-
I am looking out for one of those, we have one at our club - very solid, well built machine. They used to be relatively cheap but think people are cottoning on and they seem to be going up in value.
Nice 1 Rob!
-
....... Dave , one CNC conversion is enough for now .......
But it'll be quicker the second time round because you can machine the parts on your first CNC ! :coffee:
Dave
Hi Dave ,,, I think IF I were to do another CNC it would not be a conversion it would be a complete new build .Having one CNC mill (when finished) would make life easier too build a second .
Cheers Nick , yes its a good size solid mill and not too large for the home shop . :med:
Rob
-
Rob, that mill looks like a corker. I wasn't aware of the model. Where'd you find it?
I've just started the journey on converting my Denford Viceroy lathe to CNC, not fancy donating the mill to me so they can keep each other company? :beer:
Lack of a quill will give your right arm a workout when drilling though!
-
Hi Richard
John DB put me onto the mill , lol nope its keeping my other mills company lol ,not having a quill is a good thing in my opinion as its a mill machine not a drilling machine ,much more ridged set up for milling , there is no quill on my Aciera F3 and i manage just fine , i have other machines for drilling :med:
I've just started the journey on converting my Denford Viceroy lathe to CNC
Interesting , I hope you do a post of your progress :poke:
Rob
-
Lack of a quill will give your right arm a workout when drilling though!
Doesn't the table have a vertical power feed? :scratch:
David D
-
Sadly not David , but adding one for boring operations would be a nice wee project :dremel:
Rob
-
Hi
Rob
I see you managed to get that horrible anti rust grease off the table
That must have been there for years
John
-
Sadly not David , but adding one for boring operations would be a nice wee project :dremel:
Rob
Ah! That's a surprise Rob...... :bugeye:
I never worked a grown up mill, that didn't....... I've done a lot of drillin/ boring, with vertical mills. :thumbup:
David D
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: Its not that grown up David its just got a power feed on the X axis :palm:
Its still on John , that a photo i took in the factory :lol:
Rob
-
Kerosine works well on oriental grease
I would treat yours with respect and use brake cleaner :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:
That DRO is very similar to mine
John
-
Hi Rob, You sure do have a serious machine buying problem lad :lol: ,saying that apart from 'where the hell will you put it' :palm: it looks a cracking buy , nice solid bit of oldish English kit, from the good days. I bet you have suddenly lost interest in the CNC project on the other mill :bugeye: . I can hear you saying ' no that REALLY is it this time, no matter what , there is No more room lol................... until the next buy that is :)
Cheers Mick.
-
Hi Rob, You sure do have a serious machine buying problem lad :lol:
:lol: :lol: :lol: I do don't I :lol: :lol: :lol: funny worlass said the very same thing :palm:
saying that apart from 'where the hell will you put it' :palm:
loads of room Mick , I just have to move a few wee things around in the shop , like my workbench :bang: :bang:
I bet you have suddenly lost interest in the CNC project on the other mill :)
Nope , I will finish the cnc mill project , then do the new mill and die filer oh then have a bash at the cnc lathe :palm:
any way i still need TCG :poke:
Rob
-
.................... and don't forget your fly press :lol:
-
:Doh: i had forgotten about that , me and John will have to call over for it :thumbup:
Rob
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a good one rob its a bawt time you fawnd me one
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If i bring a tent and come over to UK - i can get machining lessons? *damn* i didnt know a aciera could do those setups. =)
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Lovely work on the cabinet Rob :thumbup: don't know how you do it!
One of these has come up for sale: (http://www.myford-lathes.com/Images/large/myford_vmc_1_1.jpg)
Looks to be a 626 with a myford badge on it, the VMC, made in Taiwan. Do you reckon it'll be any better than any other 626? It's not cheap, about 2/3 of the cost of a new one. Lathes.co.uk only has a short paragraph and reckons the only difference is that some myfords were fitted with uk switch gear and motor.
Cheers,
Nick
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Nick, I've had one of these from new in around 1987 and is the target of my CNC conversion thread on the forum.
http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,7345.0.html
It is essentially a 6x26 but without the fine quill feed wheel - a feature that I've not found a problem.
Naturally it will have similar design compromises but in order to earn the Myford label, they were imported into the UK and stripped down by myford and the slideways scraped and generally given a check over. Mine also had a British/eu motor fitted as at the time, Chinese ones had a bad reputation. I had one on a drill press that was badly balanced and soon became a doorstop.
In any case I now run the VMC with a 3 phase motor and inverter.
The machine in the photo looks very clean and has possibly had little use as the paint usually gets stained by oil/coolant etc on hard worked machines.
Provided the feedscrews and nuts are not badly worn, I'd say it is worth getting at 2/3rds new price.
Note that spares will be no more available for it that warco/chester machines.
If you are looking for a target for CNC conversion there won't be much that Rob supplemented by my project experience won't know about the task. Feedscrew condition will then be irrelevant.
hth
Bob
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Hi Nick
I am pleased Bob chipped in on this as he is better placed to give you advice on the build quality of Myford machine , I would expect it too be built to allot better quality than the two Chester 626 machines i have come across .
Rob
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Because of it's age the Myford machine would have been a Taiwanese based machine which at that time were of decent quality.
The Chester / Warco machines being made now are Chinese and depending on the factory they are produced at could have differing quality.
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Certainly at the time I purchased mine, the Myford version was about £1800 and the Warco £1600 ish.
Then they looked an identical design with slightly different bolt ons -lights, dol switches, power feeds etc.
Popular opinion then was that the extra cost was worth it due to the Myford slideway scraping and the backup available (then!) from Myford in the event of any problems. Not that I ever had any.
Stories around at the time were that handfuls of casting sand could be found in some competing brands. As i was then buying a machine for 'life' of hobby use, I paid the extra for a Myford
It was much later on when Myford dropped the VMC from their range to concentrate on VMB, VME and VMF - I believe on grounds of quality problems with sourcing VMC, that Warco started selling the 6x26 with the fine quill feed and calling it VMC
The Myford VMC table is nearer 24" long so following the convention, this would have been 6x24 although I've never seen another machine form that era so described.
Bob
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Thanks Bob, Rob and John - interesting. I hadn't noticed the lack of fine quill feed but I don't think it would bother me either, it would if there was no quill at all but cuts are better applied by elevating the knee anyway - I guess one situation it would be useful would be plunging accurately with a slot drill or something. I thought it would have been strange if Myford didn't give them the once over before selling as it could have damaged their reputation - good to know.
I'd obviously missed your post Bob but will be watching now. I wouldn't be planning any CNC though, far too complicated for me! I would just be happy with a machine that takes off the amount you ask it to without any drama!
The photo I supplied was just one from the web, it's not as clean as that but still looks in good nick and nothing that wouldn't clean up apart from a couple of slight marks on the table. Funnily the motor appears to be grey rather than green. I had to ask the seller for photos so probably shouldn't post them on here though. http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/index.php?option=com_adsmanager&Itemid=15&view=search&text_search=myford+vmc (http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/index.php?option=com_adsmanager&Itemid=15&view=search&text_search=myford+vmc)
Only problem is it's in Eastbourne so couldn't be much further away in the UK!
Thanks again.
Nick
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Thats a good price especially for the inverter too.
Just look at the comedy price for the one below from Howard Trippe!!
I I wasn't just about to fly out to US/NZ for a few weeks, I could go over and take a look for you - it is only just along the coast from me.
I wonder if there is another member nearby who could help.
Good luck
I'd bite his arm off!
If you need transport - there is a guy steve with a service called Landy lift. I've heard very good reports of him and he looks after the machines. If you are not in a hurry, he will store stuff until he is next up your way to cut down the costs.
Bob
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It dose look a good deal Nick :thumbup: for that price i cant see it hanging around for long .
Rob
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Wow, stupidly I didn't even see the one below!
I'm not entirely sure what the motor is or how it's hooked up, it doesn't look like an inverter on the pics I've got! Will ask as am a bit concerned whether it's been lashed up with a chinese style dc motor and speed controller. Doesn't look like that sort of motor though it's got a proper casing and fins etc on it.
I was looking into pallet courier services as the petrol alone would be around £110 not to mention the chew on of a 700 mile round trip with trailer on! I'll have a look at Landylift then.
Thanks,
Nick
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Iyou want to mail me the photos at bob.minchin@ntlworld.com I can take a look for you at the motor/inverter set up.
This is an area of expertise for me - see webpage
Bob
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Well not allot has been done to the 626 , well apart from move it around the shop a few times , I am remodelling the shop :bang: :bang: ,BUT I have moved the new to me mill into the shop and repaired the high low spindle speed fault , gear selector was seized on the shaft , power feed motor needed two of the field coils repaired , easy fix :zap: ,I was pleased that I did not have to send it out for a rewind .
(http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/RobWilson100/P1050886_zpsea21326b.jpg)
I still have the glass scales to refit to the mill . And I got my Thiel die filing machine up and running , just needed a bit wiring changed it had three on off switches fitted :scratch: , Re filled the oil tank with 22Lts of oil ,and repaired the air blow pipe that blows the fillings clear .
(http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/RobWilson100/P1050887_zpsadf7b530.jpg)
Hopefully I would like to get back to working on the 626 over the holidays :dremel:
Rob
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good one rob yep will be nice to see that one finisht off
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DRO looks nice mate :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw:
John
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Looking good Rob! :thumbup:
Like your filer too! Never seen one that size before.......
David D
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That is an interesting looking mill Rob. I've never seen one like that before. It almost looks like a vacuum cleaner. Nice looking filer too. You don't mess about with flimsy machinery do you!
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Cheers Lads
Getting there Bob :palm:
Aye the DRO cleaned up canny John , good solid unit all cast ally casing ,made in the USA I think ,must google it :)
David ,Mayhem :lol: :lol: Aye its a big bugger , well its not that big :palm:,way i look at it is at least i don't have to fined bench space for it :med: , but due to needing more space as i still NEEDED two other machines a TCG and something else ,some things have had to go namely my large Kennedy tool chest ,it took up a good chunk of floor space , so i moved my workbench to a better place in the shop ,sadly lost the view out the shop window , but needs must . anyway ended up with this .
(http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/RobWilson100/P1050889_zps162b56ef.jpg)
Still a work in progress ,air line and sockets to do ,but its getting there ,all the most used tools are at hand and at least i don't have to rummage though draws looking for what I am after ,clean up should be easier, also moved the vice to a better position and the file rack .
Rob
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just like mine rob its much beter than rumajing in draws for that one bit of kit that you no shud be in ther then after the war dance at not finding it you remember that you had it on the mill :doh:
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Bob, after seeing your shop layout convinced me to bin the tool box and start sticking gear up on the walls :thumbup: I still have a few more lengths of the Bott racking system so allot more will be going up on the walls :med:
As you say its much easier to finned gear now :)
Rob
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Nice and clean Rob. I like it.
That mill looks like a robot intent on taking over the world...
Eric
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Cheers Eric ,,,,,,,,,, :lol: :lol: :lol: the mill dose have a bit of a Coneheads look about it :lol: :lol: :lol: also think its part larva lamp :lol:
Rob
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Ay oop Rob, seeing that filer brought a lump to my throat, I just didn't have floor space or bench space for it but its nice to know it will be getting used, btw I found another of the file holders pm with yer address if you want it m8.
Lee
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Hi Lee ,,, Oh it will get well used,saws good too :dremel: cracking bit of German engineering .
Nice one those chucks make changing files a 2 second job ,PM sent :thumbup:
Rob
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Hi Rob , good to see you posting again , the shop is looking very spick and span there :thumbup: :clap:................. the bench looks a bit too neat if there is such a thing :lol: , I am sure it will 'mature' with use.
Keep up the good work
Cheers Mick :beer:
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Very nice Rob :thumbup:
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Found a big box of those machine files the other week, about 60 of them, all different types and sizes, some Swiss make, can't remember the name.
Was going to make scrapers out of them
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Was going to make scrapers out of them
Better than throwing them in the skip :lol:
Rob
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WOW just got thru that thread, that is some awesome quality work Rob
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Thanks RadRod :beer:
Still a fare bit still to do :dremel: ,must get finger out and get cracking again :palm:
Rob
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Hi Rob,
Just looked back at this thread, and once again you have proved to be one of the specialist machinists that post here, and set the standard for us all.
And that you are happy to share your Knowledge is just the icing on the cake for us all.
Thank you.
In this post you mentioned going to the beach, I had flashes of the sun tan................as you spend so much time in the workshop.
Can you resend email as it may have been spammed out, have a parcel to send to you.
Kindest Regards
Beagles
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:lol: :lol: :lol: sand and
see sea is are the wrong colour :lol:
PM and Email sent
Rob
edited due to being thick
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Dear Charles Atlas,
I have finished your course, now send me the muscles........................
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Who's Charles Atlas. :Doh:
Is he the guy who put the globe into a book.
Regards Beagles
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Right I am back on with this project .
Sat down and made a list of what needs to be done , fairly long list :( Thought right lets get the gib adjusters sorted , original ones have slots , really poor idea as you cant get a screwdriver in to adjust the gibs up .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060399.jpg)
Easy wee project ,,,,,,,,,, mmmmmmm then the crap starts . The pockets are not round ,or concentric with the M6 Tapped hole , some are tapped 20mm and others are 50mm . One is not even fookng straight . bastards.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060389.jpg)
So I made up a couple of temp adjusters and decided to trial fit the knee.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060383.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060384.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060385.jpg)
And as you can see the gib is to long .the lower adjuster is in the pocket .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060386.jpg)
I need to trim 1/2 of the knee gib so that the adjuster will be in the pocket
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060388.jpg)
Y axis gib needs work to nearly bottoms out in one pocket .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060392.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060394.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060395.jpg)
So I thought I would just do a quick test to see how the gibs fit the ways , lost of bad language &^^%$ ((*& &**)))_^%£"(*&
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060396.jpg)
well they touch in a few places :doh: ,SO I either mess on trying to fix the crappy tapered gibs , or remachine the ways and fit standard /parallel gibs .
Rob
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Use the opportunity to fit Turcite ?
I have this on my new mill and it's awesome how smooth and easy it is.
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Are they really that bad? Still
Might be better than standard gibs. So you think it's the gibs or the slide ways that are bad though?
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Thats one road John , just dont fancy buying a 50 meter roll :palm:
Are they really that bad? Still
Might be better than standard gibs. So you think it's the gibs or the slide ways that are bad though?
:lol: :lol: What photos were you looking at Nick :scratch: ,, the gibs are only making contact were the light spots are , not the blue area :palm: ways are fine its the gibs that are naff
Rob
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Pleased to see you are back at it Rob
I spent hours lapping mine to a decent fit
Just about need to start with a angle grinder
Mine is built a bit better than yours was
No doubt when you are finished it will be the best 626 in existence
John
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I though it was contact where the blue was! May be easier to make new tapered gibs then? Easier to make a matching pair that way?
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Hi Rob , glad to see the project is back on again , its amazing what altering the clocks does, its amazing that them gibs only make contact at them points, you would think any random bit of flat bar would be better than that :palm: :palm: ......still look on the bright side, at least your not rebuilding a go kart for someone else :palm: :palm: :bang: :bang: lol
Looking forward to seeing the new gibs whatever way you decide to do it.
Cheers Mick
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Rob,
Try Brain caddy at Slideway services, Coventry, he'll sell you just the amount you need.
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Those gibs fit better'n mine. My cross-slide even rocks on it's ways :(
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Rob,
Try Brain caddy at Slideway services, Coventry, he'll sell you just the amount you need.
Cheers John , I am going to re scrape the gibs for now , if it goes tits up I will be giving him a call .
Those gibs fit better'n mine. My cross-slide even rocks on it's ways :(
Bummer Pete ,,,,,,,,,,,,is it really bad , what make of machine ?
Well I think I could have my gibs all wrong , They must be a new type of AIR GLIDE GIB because having decided to re scrape the gibs to fit the ways , first thing to do is check the tapered side to make sure its flat ,well what do you no , the bastard things only touch in three four places , blue area's are the touch .
Top class work
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060408.jpg)
Made a start on one last night ,1/2 hour of scraping , getting there .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060410.jpg)
Rob
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Hmm, wouldn't it have been quicker/easier to give it a quick lick on your surface grinder before scraping?
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I was thinking that but how do you get the angle right? Couldn't you rub them on wet & dry on a surface plate?
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A couple of things with that plan Ade :)
One . they are tapered gibs so I would need an adjustable mag chuck which I dont have , on the list to make .
Two . And still even if I did have a tiling mag chuck with long slender work you would still need a flat surface to start with ie the face that would be stuck to the chuck , because if it was bowed in any way the mag chuck would pull it flat and after grinding when the chuck was released it would spring back , ending up with a bowed ground surface .
Rob
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Hi Rob ,
I am sure you will get there in the end, like NickG says to get one surface flat you would think that wet & dry on flat surface would speed things up as a starting point ? It makes you wonder what the hell they use to make this stuff in the first place , it must just be drilling with hand held drills and flat surfaces done with hand file, even the bits you can see have not even been done to a visually good standard on some new stuff ................ which as you are finding out makes you wonder what the bits you can not see are like.......... sad really to think that a 'modern' machine has such low standards :palm:
At least it will be brought back to standards of the good old days once you have finished with it Rob :thumbup: , keep up the good work :drool:
Cheers Mick
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Hi Mick and Chris ,,,,,, First off I am not a big fan of emery paper in all its forms for sizing a part , its ok for rubbing down for painting, cleaning off rust , polishing and blending .
Ok you place your sheet of emery on a surface plate ,rub the part back and fourth , round and round .
How do you keep an equal pressure on the part ?
How do you control were material is removed ?
And after that I bet the part is still not flat .
Would rather just scrape the surface flat :)
Rob
Wile on the subject weee rant , rubbing something back and fourth on a sheet of emery paper is NOT LAPPING , :bang: :bang: another engineering term that has been bastardized .
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Close analysis of the gibs on various cheap machines has convinced me that they finish them using a soft fibre disc on an angle grinder, possibly just eyeballing it to a surface plate as they go. I can't imagine why they would do this in preference to the machined finish that was surely present previously?
Or were they never machined, and simply went from a casting to 'scraped with an angle grinder' in one go?
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Hi Mick and Chris ,,,,,, First off I am not a big fan of emery paper in all its forms for sizing a part , its ok for rubbing down for painting, cleaning off rust , polishing and blending .
Ok you place your sheet of emery on a surface plate ,rub the part back and fourth , round and round .
How do you keep an equal pressure on the part ?
How do you control were material is removed ?
And after that I bet the part is still not flat .
Would rather just scrape the surface flat :)
Rob
I'm pleased to hear you say this since it's something that never made much sense to me.
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Hi Rob,
I am still watching with interest, great work.
I am just wondering why you never notched the gib to suit your new adjusters like most mills come like from the factory.
All the machines I have and have seen have this notch.
With cutting it off you have lost 1/2 inch of support on that axis.
Dave
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Hi there Dave , good to see your on the case :)
So I made up a couple of temp adjusters and decided to trial fit the knee.
Yes there are many types of gib adjusters , I am still undecided what type to use . Even so if I were to go for a slotted type the slot would be machined after the gibs were scraped ,as with tapered gibs /any tapered item when fitting /removing material ,a small amount of material removed can move the part a fare way laterally . So fit the gib then mark the position for the slot .
Something I will have to be careful about ,pondering just making new gibs .
Close analysis of the gibs on various cheap machines has convinced me that they finish them using a soft fibre disc on an angle grinder, possibly just eyeballing it to a surface plate as they go. I can't imagine why they would do this in preference to the machined finish that was surely present previously?
Or were they never machined, and simply went from a casting to 'scraped with an angle grinder' in one go?
I would say your observations were bang on :thumbup:
Cheers Rob
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Two . And still even if I did have a tiling mag chuck with long slender work you would still need a flat surface to start with ie the face that would be stuck to the chuck , because if it was bowed in any way the mag chuck would pull it flat and after grinding when the chuck was released it would spring back , ending up with a bowed ground surface .
Yeah and guess who found this out when he tried to make a triangular 90-40-50 straight-edge from a large sash weight last week. I set my tilting table up and dialled it in carefully on the mill, cut two sides, then cut the third and stood back to admire my perfectly-formed bent-edge :D
Bummer Pete ,,,,,,,,,,,,is it really bad , what make of machine ?
It's an old Warco round-column. Hasn't seen much use and I guess that's because the previous owners also found out how crap it was before giving up.
I'm now using it as a test-mule to practice my scraping. even if I ruin it (hardly likely) I'm only out £150.
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A couple of things with that plan Ade :)
One . they are tapered gibs so I would need an adjustable mag chuck which I dont have , on the list to make .
Two . And still even if I did have a tiling mag chuck with long slender work you would still need a flat surface to start with ie the face that would be stuck to the chuck , because if it was bowed in any way the mag chuck would pull it flat and after grinding when the chuck was released it would spring back , ending up with a bowed ground surface .
Rob
See, I knew there'd be a good reason. Or a reason at least :lol: And yours definitely fall into the "good one" category...
I guess the chrome paint gets put away when you're scraping? :lol:
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Thanks Rob, I didn't catch the temp bit, so your going to make new gibs.
I think for cnc you would be better off sticking with the taper gibs.
Dave
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Wile on the subject weee rant , rubbing something back and fourth on a sheet of emery paper is NOT LAPPING , :bang: :bang: another engineering term that has been bastardized .
I always said flatting.... But I suppose that's wrong? Since it don't come out flat!
But I ain't changing my vid's... Flatting it is!
Lapping is for cutting 2 part together ain't it?
Ralph.
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In the dictionary now it's either I think but as Rob said, I think probably originated from lapping together 2 mating surfaces so they fit each other. I think grinding in valves on a car engine was known as lapping? In these cases which is the lap though? I think the lap is the material in which the abrasive is embedded?
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Did I mention my Chester 626 mill was a crock of sh*t :Doh:
Decided to do a bit more checking this morning ,,,,,,,,and it gets worse :lol: :lol:
All blue areas are touches , Table to compound , :palm:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060423.jpg)
Compound to knee ,,,,,,,,,,,,,what the fook !
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060417.jpg)
Lets see if the Y is parallel with the X axis ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,what was I thinking .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060418.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060419.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060420.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060421.jpg)
Oh well , note to self , build complete machine next time :Doh:
Rob
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Aaaawww....... Rob! :palm:
But. Look on the bright side....... You're the Guy with the nous to fix it! :D
Commiserations Mate.
David D
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Well I've learnt one thing from these posts - never, ever buy a Chinese machine of any type again as I don't have the skill to fully rebuild a machine like you have. Terrible, people still turn out good stuff on them but imagine how good it could be with a decent machine!
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:lol: :lol: David all I wanted to do was make new gib adjusters :palm:
Hi Nick , I totally agree as this is bogstandard for a hobby import machine, absolutely shoddy workmanship ,cheap crap parts ,bearings ,screws , fasteners all utter rubbish .
I personally would never touch a far eastern import ever again . From now on sticking with used machines from German ,Swiss ,USA and UK manufactures .
Rob
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My heart goes out to you Rob ,
its one step forward and two back when you find stuff like that...........it is sickening to think that when these things are made its more or less fraud really lol , they just make it look like a milling machine rather than work like one. I wonder how long they would last in a factory working shifts with contact points like that on the working surfaces ...................... What is your master plan to get around the problems Rob ? Its not justice Rob but as David D says at least you will be able to overcome the problems, someone else with less gear and knowledge would now be thinking of scrapping the thing :palm:
I think all you can do is look at it as a challenge and think of it as character building :hammer: :poke: :bang: as they say :scratch: , while your watchers sit back :coffee: :coffee: and wait knowing it will end up :drool: :drool: :bow: in the end and we will have all learnt something on the journey , how to fix ...........as well as don't get one in the first palce :thumbup:
Best of luck Rob and I hope its the last of the nasty suprises for you :thumbup:
Cheers Mick
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well rob it will be worth it in the end chin up it will run one day
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Evening Lads :)
Well after a sausage sarnie and a brew I decided there was no way I was going to hand scrape a possible 20 thou out casting ,so it was whacked onto the mill for a skim.
Y axis
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060429.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060432.jpg)
X axis
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060434.jpg)
I just took the bare min of the faces , just enough to true them.
Try for flatness .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060437.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060436.jpg)
Test for parallel .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060440.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060438.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060439.jpg)
Thats a few tenths of a thou over just short of 12 inches . 0.008 mm , a tad better I would say :coffee:
Rob
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Looks the dogs now mate
Have you ever fancied working in China :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
John
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lol by the look of robs ther still in the stone age
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Well done! I had every confidence in you Rob. :clap: :clap:
Especially after a sausage sarnie........ :thumbup:
David D
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Excellent work there Rob.
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You need to get Bob to look at that clock
It seems to be "stuck" :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
I wonder if my mill is the same :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:
John
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I wonder if my mill is the same
John
20 Tabs , a sausage sarnie and a brew I bet it is :)
The fun continues :lol: , with the compound slide all squared up it was trial fitted to the knee casting , as expected I knew i would have to machine some from the top of the Y dovetail , But the gap was not even :scratch: I could get nothing in one side and a .0025 feeler in the other , odd
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060452.jpg)
so a bit measure up . :Doh:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060453.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060454.jpg)
Oh well it need machining anyway . set up on mill using the four corners as reference points to get it level both ways .I have to be careful of what gets machined away as it all has a knock on effect.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060457.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060460.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060461.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060462.jpg)
with that done a light skim was done to true the face .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060464.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060466.jpg)
Now i checked all four corner points , all crack on .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060470.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060471.jpg)
now the middle , remember this machine was less than a year old when I bought it .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060473.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060472.jpg)
both sides have a nearly 3 thou bend in the middle and its not wear .its Fooking CRAP machining :bang:
Rob
Edit : missed photo out
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Nice set ups Mate
I like the machine jack :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
At least the new mill came in handy
John
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Rob,
Forgive my ignorance but isn't the surface which you appear to have machined a clearance surface? I thought the ways were the bits on the bottom? I can't imagine it's designed to contact both on the top (the bits you've written on with pen) and the bottom (the bit your mic gauge is sitting on), so what am I missing?
Rich
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Having looked at it more closely I think I realise that it is just a 6-surface bearing, must be complicated to scrape in!
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Hi Rich
Your correct the top is a clearance fit and dose not contact the compound , but because I had machined the compound bearing surface flat and true .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060432.jpg)
they did touch , as I new they would , I had to take 20 thou off the compound , so I machined the knee dovetail to clear the compound slide so the slide bearing surface can sit down on the knee bearing surface . Now that the top surface of the dovetail is flat I am just using that surface to shows how bent the Knee way bearing surface is .
I have to box clever here as I dont have much material to play with . Also pre made parts will have to be altered :palm: I really should have inspected the machine before I started . note to self there .
Rob
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Hi Rob :palm: what can you say , it looks like a case of what can you trust to be right in the first place to then use as datum point :scratch: , do you think any of this type of thing is due to them machining castings before they have time to season and settle the stresses out ? or they just machine them by eye and that will do for the quality standards they operate on. I am sure you will get it fettled in the end :thumbup:
looking on the bright side its making the effort you spent getting your new mill sorted out and making that flycutter..... worth every god dam second :ddb: :bow: :bow:
Cheers Mick
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Mick
Never mind season, they will be "machining" them still warm from the sand :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw:
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Hi Mick
I never thought I would need the flycutter to fix the 626 , just made it as an in fill project , thought it may come in handy some day :palm:, pleased I did make it now .
New mill is worth its weight in tabs .
Rob
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So Rob given that all the flat surfaces were machined with a bananna cutter is it fair to assume that all the angled faces of the dovetails will no longer be true to your new flat faces and all have to be skimmed?
J
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Correct Jason , I will hand fit the dovetails . There is one saving grace in that they actually got the dovetails parallel.
Rob
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Hi there, all,
Rob,
I've been following this thread with interest. I find the work you've been doing absolutely mind-boggling and I feel for you as you find each new problem. It must be horrible to be sort of trapped by the work you've already done - giving up now would be enormously costly in terms of your investment so far.
The best I can say is 'hang in there!', I'd like to encourage you somehow, though I speak from such an inexpert level.
At least you have other machines to bring to bear on the Chester - imagine the plight of someone just having a dud machine and only their bare hands and a file and scraper or two!
It does give me an appreciation of the achievements of the pioneer machine tool builders, starting from very little and building-up to some of the huge but precise machines I have only read about and seen in pictures. One such that comes to mind is the gear-cutting machine that floated in/on a pool of mercury to isolate it from ground tremors, was it Browns in Manchester? I think it was that one that made/makes the big double helical gears for naval gearboxes.
Anyway, I say again, 'hang in there'.
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Rob, don't take this the wrong way but - I HATE you :D
I am hand-scraping that surface because I have no way of machining it, my mill is too small. It's the only thing I have to use for a reference for the lower dovetails. Been at it hours already and it's not even a bearing surface :(
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That is going to be one hell of a nice mill when you are finished Rob.
Whilst it is major PITA - look on the philosophical side: without disappointment we cannot truly appreciate success.
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Hi there, all,
Rob,
I've been following this thread with interest. I find the work you've been doing absolutely mind-boggling and I feel for you as you find each new problem. It must be horrible to be sort of trapped by the work you've already done - giving up now would be enormously costly in terms of your investment so far.
The best I can say is 'hang in there!', I'd like to encourage you somehow, though I speak from such an inexpert level.
At least you have other machines to bring to bear on the Chester - imagine the plight of someone just having a dud machine and only their bare hands and a file and scraper or two!
It does give me an appreciation of the achievements of the pioneer machine tool builders, starting from very little and building-up to some of the huge but precise machines I have only read about and seen in pictures. One such that comes to mind is the gear-cutting machine that floated in/on a pool of mercury to isolate it from ground tremors, was it Browns in Manchester? I think it was that one that made/makes the big double helical gears for naval gearboxes.
Anyway, I say again, 'hang in there'.
Hi Pete and thanks for the words of encouragement :beer:
If the truth be known I am quiet enjoying the challenge and I would never give up,just too dumb to no when I am beat lol , anyway its something to keep the gray cells going . Its not that I am really tied by the parts I have made ,as I can really just re make the parts if needed s be at the end of the day its just material and time , time is free lol , I am tied by the castings ,as they have already been machined :bang: , I am just going to have to be a tad creative with some of my setups .
Aye I am with you there , the pioneer machine builders were in a class of there own , I just love reading about how it was done back then , Mined you there are still people out there like Mr Gingery that have built machines from absolutely nothing with hand tool . My hats off to those lads .
Rob, don't take this the wrong way but - I HATE you :D
I am hand-scraping that surface because I have no way of machining it, my mill is too small. It's the only thing I have to use for a reference for the lower dovetails. Been at it hours already and it's not even a bearing surface :(
:lol: :lol: :lol: Its Ok Pete ,,,,,,, if it makes you feel better I hate me too :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Seriously though , I would be hand scraping the parts if I did not have the new mill , you stick at it you will get there :thumbup:
Whilst it is major PITA - look on the philosophical side: without disappointment we cannot truly appreciate success.
Thanks Darren ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, very true words :med:
Thanks Rob
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Evenin Lads
Wile pondering how I will go about machining the knee ways , I decided I would go mining for some cast iron to make the gibs from , so off I trots to the end of the garden , to the cast iron mine .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060442.jpg)
That was a big old surface plate , so large I had to forklift it into my van then take it to a company I do work for and use there 250 amp plasma cutter to cut it into three bits . Any way I set about one of the three sections with sledge hammer and grinder to remove the webs , cut a about 8 inches of one end and milled it up flat ,
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060443.jpg)
After clean up it ends up 27 mm thick , very usable . My plan was to cut it into strips on the Aciera in HZ mode , but the travel is 30 mm to short ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, oh well time to make some tooling for the new mill ,plenty of travel on that , i will just have to cut the plate vertical ,knee problem . :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
Making three tools one smaller fly cutter to finish machining the ways , other one is too large , and a couple of slitting saw arbors , one 1" and other 1 1/2" .
Stock
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060513.jpg)
Ruffed
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060514.jpg)
Ruffing taper
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060515.jpg)
Tapers finish machined and tapped for draw bar.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060524.jpg)
machining 1 1/2" dia section for slitting saw
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060526.jpg)
still some machining to do , enough for tonight .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060528.jpg)
Rob
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:bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
I Like the tooling
Tapers look great :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :thumbup: :thumbup:
John
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Thats some going there Rob !!!!! that would be a real big project for lots of us .....well me anyway :palm: They all look up to your usual standard too :drool: :drool: .... you are going to run out of tools to make at this rate lad :lol:
Cheers Mick.
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What taper is it Rob ?
If it's 40 INT got some chucks and holders here going spare as I have standardised in ER32 and 40 now
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well dun rob
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:hammer: saw blade is on upside down....knew he was not that good :D
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Nah, he runs it the other way round:})
From what I read on this forum, people in his area don't abide by other peoples standards! :hammer:
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:lol: :lol: :lol: thanks lads :Doh:
What taper is it Rob ?
If it's 40 INT got some chucks and holders here going spare as I have standardised in ER32 and 40 now
Thanks for the offer John , but there 30INT :Doh:
Cheers Rob
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What do you use for scrapers Rob? I just make a handful of carbide-tipped ones so I can have several different style tips without re-grinding.
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:nrocks:good !! nice great job Can you tell me this material number! Shank
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:hammer: saw blade is on upside down....knew he was not that good :D
Probably just cutting some vinyl siding for the workshed with it. He does everything first class. :bow:
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With the blade the wrong way round you know it would still cut perfectly for him. :nrocks:
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No - it's for 'unsawing' the bits he cuts wrong so we never see them :ddb: :ddb:
A bit like the reverse function on my CNC lathe chip conveyor - turns the swarf back into barstock :lol:
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I bet he's threaded it left hand........ :headbang:
David D
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: you lot crack me up :lol: :lol: :)
Tad more done today :dremel: , milled the slots for the drive keys .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060531.jpg)
And finished the turning on the slitting saw arbors.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060532.jpg)
Milling the face of the flycutter body .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060534.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060537.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060538.jpg)
slot for the tool and drilling was all done at this setup .
Flycutter finished .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060540.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060543.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060544.jpg)
Just need to make two cups tomorrow to clamp the cutters to the arbors , then back to work on the mill :nrocks:
Rob
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Looking great Rob :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
You nearly have as many "fly cutters" as I have ER32 chucks :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh:
John
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Looking nothing less than delightful Rob :bow: :bow: :bow: :drool: :drool: , next job will be another tooling rack if you keep going at this rate ! . Hope you get some shop time at the weekend .
Cheers Mick.
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Looking great Rob :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
You nearly have as many "fly cutters" as I have ER32 chucks :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh:
John
You should make a trade.. ;)
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Awesome, will they be getting any surface treatment to stop them rusting Rob? Yeah think you should start making nice little super accurate bench top mills at a cheap price!!! ;-)
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What do you use for scrapers Rob? I just make a handful of carbide-tipped ones so I can have several different style tips without re-grinding.
Hi Pete , here are a few of my scrapers I have collected , some were donated by Dave BC others I just picked up here and there ,some were my granddads , I have a box with a few more in somewhere :scratch:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060549.jpg)
Any chance of a photo of your shop made scrapers :poke:
Rob
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Awesome, will they be getting any surface treatment to stop them rusting Rob? Yeah think you should start making nice little super accurate bench top mills at a cheap price!!! ;-)
Do you want to buy a slight used 626 IN BITS! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I may give just the bodies a plate Nick , :thumbup:
Rob
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:DHI Rob
Arbor is very beautiful !What material you use? Need to do a heat treatment this? thank you
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Rob, you might consider doing stuff looking... well worse.. you will end up be the reason everyon here takes up knitting instead.. ;)
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:DHI Rob
Arbor is very beautiful !What material you use? Need to do a heat treatment this? thank you
Hi There ,,,,,,,,,too tell the truth I have no idea what grade of steel I used , Just some tough old steel I had lying around . No ,I will just leave them in the condition there in , for what I will be using them for they will be fine :med:
Rob, you might consider doing stuff looking... well worse.. you will end up be the reason everyon here takes up knitting instead.. ;)
:lol: :lol: :lol: knitting !
Cheers Rob
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I'm beginning to think Rob has a fly cutter fetish!
Interesting looking collection of scrapers there. The yellow one looks like one you would take with you for a night on the town in NCL. I'm guessing that is for getting into dovetails and other tight spaces? I too would like to see some of the home made ones.
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Any chance of a photo of your shop made scrapers :poke:
Rob
Sure - here they are. Obviously not as posh-looking as your stuff as I only have a cheap camera without all the special effects yours has got :D
The one with the short tip and new handle I made by silver soldering a carbide slip gauge to a steel shank. The others I made after buying a bunch of different-shaped tips off eBay. The sqauare one i made for scraping rust off ways etc but at the moment it's doing serious duty stripping 70 years of paint of my Monarch lathe. The rounded one is a bit too small a radius for scraping but that also makes a great paint scraper for internal curves.
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Hi there, Rob,
I was looking at your photo of the cast iron slab being fly-cut and noticed the clamps holding the slab down to the table.
They look very much like the gizmos I've seen listed for sale on eBay and described as face-plate jaws (no names - no pack-drill!).
Thing is, the 'buy-it-now' price for those face-plate jaws seems awfully expensive! :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: :scratch:
Do they have some hidden mechanism that's not visible in the seller's photos or are they hyper-strong or what?
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Hi Pete ,,,,,,,, :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: those scrappers look very pro :dremel: dont forget to show us the results of your scrapping :D
Hi there, Rob,
I was looking at your photo of the cast iron slab being fly-cut and noticed the clamps holding the slab down to the table.
They look very much like the gizmos I've seen listed for sale on eBay and described as face-plate jaws (no names - no pack-drill!).
Thing is, the 'buy-it-now' price for those face-plate jaws seems awfully expensive! :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: :scratch:
Do they have some hidden mechanism that's not visible in the seller's photos or are they hyper-strong or what?
Hi Pete ,,,, Face plate jaws are normally sold in a set of four , with each jaw having its own adjustment, just like a four jaw chuck , , making a set for my CUB lathe is on my too do list :dremel: . The ones I am using on the mill have one fixed jaw and one moving jaw , basically your mill table becomes one big vice .
The sets you looked at on Ebay were probably a VERY LARGE set .
Rob
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Hi there, Rob,
Thank you for your explanation.
The jaws I saw on eBay were described as 8 inch and another as 6 inch - I thought that referred to the size of the faceplate but I guess it really refers to the size of the jaw!!! :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
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Evening Lads
Came home today from work to fined a parcel sitting there for me :) Pete had very kindly made me two of his carbide scrapers .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060551.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060552.jpg)
Being the impatient git that I am I was straight into the shop to try them out ,they still need handles making . :palm:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060556.jpg)
Result , they are far far superior to the HSS ones I have been using , they cut like a dream :med:
Pete had lapped a 5 deg neg rake , my crappy camera skills dont do justice to the edge ,but I can say is its a lot better than my scraper sharpening .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060554.jpg)
One of the two has a thinner blade , just the job for getting into dovetails .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060557.jpg)
Thanks again Pete ,,,,,,,,,,,,,I really owe you one :beer:
Rob
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Rob,
Considering that the chinese probably melted down a DS&G, or a Weiler, etc for the iron to make that 626, I would only be fair if you took that saddle to your furnace, and cast a Wok :)
Your work is inspirational for us. Maybe the quality manager of the Chester 626 plant (someone had to sign the certificate right?) should be sent a link to this thread!
Mark
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:lol: :lol: :lol: Thanks Mark :thumbup: ,,,,,,,,,but i dont think there is a quality control manager , due to there is no actual quality to control :scratch:
Pete's lap http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/56483-Adventures-in-scraping?p=839772#post839772 :smart:
Rob
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No one would have the craft in China,Chinese words to say "Fly scraping“ :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:
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Evening Lads
Came home today from work to fined a parcel sitting there for me :) Pete had very kindly made me two of his carbide scrapers .
Thanks again Pete ,,,,,,,,,,,,,I really owe you one :beer:
Rob
Nooo problemo!
I would have cut file tangs on them but I was worried they might come out of the packaging in the post.
I hope the tips stay put - I had no idea it would be so hard silver soldering them on with butane gas. Had to cheat a bit to get enough heat from the canister but I won't say how coz it wasn't exactly a right and proper thing to do :)
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Hi Pete , the tips look well fixed :thumbup: I have bummed some mahogany from Mick to make handles :med:
Hi Lads , I managed to finish off the arbors today , spent most of the weekend sorting out my shops and its still not done :Doh:
All done .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060568.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060560.jpg)
cutters the wrong way round :lol: :lol:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060561.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060562.jpg)
The arbors will hold up to a 1/2" wide cutter .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060566.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060565.jpg)
Now back on with the mill :dremel:
Rob
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Very nice Mate
Clever how your camera can do matt and shinney on one setting
John
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A flycutter is also on my list of tools to do, but I have not found a figure for the angle of the face/toolbit. It looks like more than 10 degrees but not so much as 20.
Rob, what angle did you choose for the smaller one just above?
BR
/Peter
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Very nice Mate
Clever how your camera can do matt and shinney on one setting
John
He's got Photoshop off to a fine art.
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no i have seen the big buff that he polishish them with ooo well thers still room in my workshop rob just lod the van up and drop it off well dun on them tools :headbang:
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:bow:Rob, you've probably said this before but how do you mask parts of a component when plating?
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Top job Rob :drool: :drool:, ...........one of the best jobs in the world would be quality control manager in your shop...............just sit drinking tea ( at home ) knowing there is no point even going into work , never mind looking at anything as you know everything is under control.......................the only quality being ..................Top Quality :lol:
Keep up the good work.
Cheers Mick
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Nice work Rob.
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Uhm, so you boys ever considered knitting.. it seems like a fairly acomplishble hobby..
Rob.. you must do a surface finishing tutorial.. now.. *point towards whatever forum section*
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Cheers Lads :beer:
A flycutter is also on my list of tools to do, but I have not found a figure for the angle of the face/toolbit. It looks like more than 10 degrees but not so much as 20.
Rob, what angle did you choose for the smaller one just above?
BR
/Peter
Hi Peter , I went for 20 degrees :thumbup:
:bow:Rob, you've probably said this before but how do you mask parts of a component when plating?
Hi Nick ,,,,,,,, I used good old PVC tape to mask these parts ,there are allot of other ways to mask parts for plating .
Cheers Rob
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Thanks a lot Rob! :thumbup:
Your nicely made tools are a real inspiration, and they do create tool envy :bow:
BR
/Peter
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Wow, Rob, what kind of plating is that?
Neotech, I'm with you, it would be great to learn how to achieve better finishes on what we make. I certainly could use help with that.
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Thanks Peter and Steve :beer:
Steve the plating is my home brewed Nickle plate , just something I am messing with :zap:
Well I managed to straighten up the Y way bearing surface on the knee.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060651.jpg)
Now both surfaces are on the same plain , no bend , flat and square both ways with the Z . And the compound now has no rock to it . :)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060653.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1060654.jpg)
Just need to fit the dovetail and make some tapered gibs :dremel:
Rob