MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: krv3000 on May 19, 2018, 06:49:30 PM
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hi all I no I have projects on the go. but I cud not resist I got my self a Stuart 10 horizontal at Doncaster show :) I have bin after one for sum time as I have the vatical 10 witch I was given I keep saying I will by a proper cylinder casting for it as the one that's on it I made out of steel but never have any way as my way of getting a way from the (wedding of the year) I started on the engine will post pics tomorrow not any mashing just cleaning up the castings only two things not right that will be sent back 1 is the gun metal casting for the bearings for the crank and the other the cylinder all the ports are slanted you see wat I mean when I post the pics and by the time I mashen them they will be to big in one way and not big inuf in a norther way a part from that all seems well but at a Delmer don't no why but Stuart don't do drawings for this engine in MM :bugeye: I think there not doing them selves any favours by doing this as this type of engine is deemed suterbel for beginner's and as any one under the age of 50 say in the uk will be learnt metric system that bin sed it ant hard to convert the drawings to MM any way as im making the engine in MM shod I use MM nuts and bolts or the BA bolts provided :scratch: any way as off to bed
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KRV,
Look forward to your build. I made a decision ages ago to only use Metric fasteners. Not that I have built any bought casting models but certainly modified a few imperial drawings to metric.
I notice that you have BA bolts provided with the castings so perhaps use them as it would seem no tapping on your part is needed.
At least in my tiny shop using metric I do not have to keep multiple supplies of fasteners, drills, taps and dies. Will not suit the purists but I build stuff for my enjoyment and sometimes frustration. Either way I learn stuff, even if it is not to do something that way again.
God luck with your build.
John B
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I have not long finished a 10v and used 2.5 mm cap heads , as I didn't have a drawing .
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hi all john B on the one I have all the holes need taping any way her is sum pics just in random the black pant you will see on sum parts is a rust preventing coting any way the first pics is of the cylinder and Bering casting enjoy
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I'm surprised they let those bad castings out of the shop. Otherwise this will be a nice project to watch you complete. :coffee:
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hi more pics got a email back of Stuart there going to send out sum replacement parts any way all the parts that I am not working on I have put in a tub so they don't get lost lol (wee will se if that works ) today yep I hold me hand up I cheated I took the box bed in to work to grind it flat the risen for that the top part had bin child so even with a cobalt cuter in me mill it was hard to cut so rather than damage me mill I just did it at work I hope non of the remainder of the castings have not bin child time will tell
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I also have planned to buy one of the castings sets from Stuart. Those are not cheap but I also assume they will replace any unmachinable components. They have that kind of a reputation.
There is this British musician, Keith Appleton, who makes a lot of videos about steam engines and he has some which are aimed towards noobie machinists like me. Despite the marketing content his videos are actually very good. I also think that he has the correct understanding on what is important and what is not. In case You have not seen his videos those might give some hints and they are strangely entertaining. Especially the ones that contain painting ....
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Bob, I hit a hard spot in a cast iron pipe cap that I wanted to use for my pipe engine project. It really messed up my 5/8" drill, and I didn't have any carbide drills. So I tried annealing it and it worked. It cut really easily after that.
Maybe if you have problems again with hard castings you could try it.
See here:
https://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,10261.msg117028.html#msg117028
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lol well every thing is on hold me work bench is full of er tools I put a bid in for a wooden tool box witch is full of tooling did not think I wood win it till I got a txt saying I had won and it was just up the road lol as like a kid at xmas will post pics tomorrow
:drool:
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hi all. all I will say is the box is gnaw in bits will put up sum pics the workshop is full of wood dust once I had a good at the box was in a bad state so I took it all a part the top of the box was broken so im on sanding it all dawn to get it so I can put it back together
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hi true to Stuarts reputation they have sent me out replacement castings I sent them a email saying thank you and I will send the bad parts back to them I got a reply saying there is no need to send them the bad parts just do wat I want with them :) well im going to mill out the ports on the bad cylinder and fit in a blank and re mashen the ports so I will have a proper cylinder for my upright No 10
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hi all as fed up with working on the box so started to make the crank once over the crank was a casting gnaw they give you the bits to make one rather than do that I will be making the one for this engine out of a solid lump first job was to convert the droning in to mm I all redy had sum flat stock the right size so just cut it to length center drilled the two ends then off we go once the center was to size I glued in a m8 dowel redy for the next job right pics
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That's an interesting way to do it, Bob. :thumbup:
No need for jacks.
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I think I shod rename this bit as haw not to make a one pace crank a pack of chocolate hob nobs to the first one to spot the mistake right pics
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Oh dear, you cut the wrong piece out. It's a non-crankshaft :)
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Now that's my kind of mistake! :headbang:
Let's see you do that twice in a row, now.
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I too create this type of opportunity to make something again. Can we say, "The first was just a trial run"?? Yeah, well I've made quite a few trial runs in that case.
:mmr:
John B
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But how else does your scrap bin fill up with useful stuff to dig you out of the next hole :clap:
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At least it won't vibrate .
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lol I like all the comments will get started on a new one dun the right way I hope lol
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hi all did a bit more I made a new crank and fitted the top casting to the bottom box casting I had to make new studs as the ones supplied are to short so mad them out of stanles rod I all so put sum chemical metal on the underside of the box as the casting is thin no pics of that right pics the studs in the pics the long ones is the ones I made and the ones in the box casting
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Second crank looks good, Bob! :thumbup: :beer:
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Looking good Bob; I made one similar a while back a S50H, works a treat when set up...
George.
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hi brill im not inprest with this kit sum of the 7BA nuts are taped off center studs to short im after sum 4.5mm AF stanles hex bar to make new ones
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hi will put up sum pics at sum point I got sum stanles rod 2.5mm will remake the studs I have sum 4.5mm AF coming to make sum bolts I got sum SS nuts of peter so I don't have to make them also borrowed the taps and die's for the gland nuts and exhorts port I mad up a angel bracket to attach the top casting to I also got a 11mm ball nose cuter off john for the Bering mounting point have fun by for gnaw
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hi all I got a replacement cylinder for the Stuart so the other one im repairing to go on to my Stuart v10 sos no pics of this bit but mild out the bad port section of the cylinder just bigger than the valve chest that dune got sum cast iron and made a plug to fit in did this the old way with a hacksaw and files once a snug fit I glued it in place I have sum epoxy witch is resistant to hi temp once that's bin left for a week I will mill it and put the ports back in it right pics
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Good idea about salvaging the old cylinder, Bob. :thumbup: :clap:
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hi well it ant bin a week lol I mild off the plug sos no pics of that bit then set the cylinder up in the 4 jaw chuck direst the end off then board our to 20mm then direst the opposite end off the bare in the pic its bang on 20mm that I have going threw the bore then marked out where the ports need to go right pics
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Those ports look a lot straighter than the old ones! And good job on the bore, Bob. I like seeing the pictures. :thumbup: :beer:
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Hi Bob. Long time no see!
However, can you put a name to your high temperature epoxy resin please? Probably others are asking the same question.
Regards
Norman
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hi all thanks for the comment's hi Norman the epoxy is devcon hi temp non ferrous industrial I have had it sum time it stinks lol
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Thanks Bob.
I was hoping to find the name of an epoxy which could be the medium to mix a substantial amount of bronze filings.
Actually they were stuff used by gilders and - to my knowledge- were at least in the family in 1938.Shame not to have some use for it.
Actually you saw some of it when you Kindly helped to assist me with a 'newer' lathe.
My formal thanks you and Peter!
Norm
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hi Norman theirs this type on eBay this is the number 162449306200
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hi all not a lot of pics I direst up the box casting I filled in sum deep casting marks sos no pics of that bit then gave it a cot of black gloss pant do you no wat the silver thing is for made a rod to go in to the top casting for setting up on the angel bracket that I made to hold it still undecided in witch way im going to mashen it right pics
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well im disappointed no one gest wat the silver block is for well its for holding the cylinder wile you drill the hole for the steam port pic
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I would not have guessed that nice one! :beer:
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Oh okay, sorry, Bob, I didn't realize it was a guessing game. :coffee: I've seen something like that before though. P. 146, Tubal Cain (the ME, non-Youtube one), "Simple Workshop Devices", although yours is nicer because it has a backrest, not just a plinth. I like that. :thumbup:
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well even more pics I fitted the top casting to the angel plate then fit it to me face plate after sum time of giggling abwatt got it lined up on center once that was dun I glued the top casting on as I did not want to just rely on the clamp that I made up to go across the crank Bering mawnts to hold it in place then I turned the front face dawn to size an fast it off then started to boar it out to the rite size right pics I must Point out I did this work sum time back but im on holiday and thort it wood be good to put sum post up wile im a way when I get back I need to drill and tap the plate that its fixt to so I can mill the Bering supports and clean up the slot in the side and I have put sum pics up of me work bench lol any way pics
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You really weren't kidding about your bench!
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I like seeing work on an angle iron and faceplate! :beer:
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hi all right as back from me holiday so I got stuck in today on the engine I machined up the other cylinder did not take any pics as it was the same proses as the last on then drilled and tapped the top casting to the base of the angel bracket then got a lump of cast ion cut a lump off yes I no you get a lump of it in the kit but I need to make two top caps and two bottom caps any way turned up two top caps then made one bottom cap I will have to dismantle the 10v two get the sizes right for the bottom cap any way me lath is curved in cast ion muck so I think tomorrow will be spent cleaning it dawn any way pics
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Nice progress KRV3000; did you find any chilled spots in the cast iron sash weight when you cut & machined it?. these lumps of cast can vary, some machines up nicely other bits can be a pig to machine until you get under the skin.
George.
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hi no I had no bother in the machining of the cast ion but the bit that was left I took to work and skim it off at work :D right I milled the top casting for the crank bearings right pics
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Looking good, Bob. :clap:
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hi did a bit more I started on the valve chest first job con vert it all in to mm then start to mashen it up wat the drawings don't tell you is that there is a off set on the gland fitting (ie) its not in the center it is on the with but not in its depth good job I have the old drawings of the 10v witch shows you this off set any way ones taken to het right thickness I had to get me height gage out and marked the center spot once that was dun I made a filler pace to go in the center of the valve chest this is too keep the drill running strata then set it up in the 4 jaw chuck and with me center bar got it on center then you have to drill in three steps 2.4 then 3.2 then 5.4 right pics
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hi all dun a bit more fitted the valve chest and drilid and tapped the holes and fitted the end cape right pics
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hi all dun a lot more will post the pics tomorrow I drilled the bottom cap then drilled the channels for the steam ports all so did the ports for the taps once more the drawings don't show this but I no that on this engine and the v10 there a extra and you don't need to fit them but if you did want to fit them wat is the hole you need to drill for the tap and the hole for the feed to the tap and you need to put flats on where the taps fit on to any way as im making me own taps so the threaded hole ant a problem but wat is a problem is on the v10 the taps are essay to get to but on the h10 there on the bottom of the cylinder so I have a plan its to make up sum pipes to go from the bottom and go up to the taps that will be fitted to the side and rather than the taps pointing out they will be pointing dawn ( i.e. ) just like your kitchen taps I all so mild out the ports on the second cylinder any way will post more tomorrow
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hi as promist pics
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hi even more this time with words lol my way of drilling the bottom cap to the top casting made up a 7ba by7mm long 4mm threaded 7ba to go in to the cylinder then filed off the threads so they fit in to the bottom cap then with a flat plate and a angel bracket clamp up the cylinder to the top casting keeping the port face at right angel then only on the bottom of the end cap and the top casting run sum super glue a rawnd the jont once the glue has gone off remove the cylinder but don't move the end cap then drill threw the end cap with a 2mm drill in to the top casting then drill with a 2.6 mm drill pics
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even more once that's dune next job the gland nut and piston yes in the kit you get a lump of brass to make these out of but im making them out of bronze chopped up a lump then in the 4 jaw to turn it in to a rawnd the piston od is 19.5 mm by 6.5 thick in the drawing it says three oil groves well im opting for a silicon o ring sos no pics of this bit as camera went flat once that was dun I then made the gland nut 12.75 od by 9.6 mm long drilled 3.9 then a 4mm Remer then turned dawn the end for 5.16 thread then cut it off and then threaded one end of the 4mm rod supplied for the piston rod 5ba thread right pics
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Still enjoying following your progress, Bob. I have a couple chunks of bronze shaped just like yours -- must be cutoffs from a big round. Keep up the good work! :beer:
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hi thanks I have a few lumps like that no pics but made up the cross head and made the rod for the valve next job the valve connecting rod and concentric
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hi all more pics made the gland nut for the stem chest the concentric as you no I have bin making videos with john regarding the fix of D.T.I.s hope you all are enjoying them any way pics
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Looking really good, Bob! :beer:
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hi sos all bin biz with john with them haw to vids plus I hive bin on with the wooden tool box I have wood dust all over the place
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Not to worry I know there coming. nice videos by the way! :beer: