Post by: shipto on March 12, 2017, 04:31:44 PM
I have wanted a mill for a long time and despite following searches for one close to to me I havent been able to find one thats the right size, the right money or combination of those.
pic 1) Is a bit of 150mm X 100mm x 5mm wall box section that was left over from a one off job at work which I have held onto for years with bits for my origional idea for knee slide welded on.
pic 2) It needs some holes for mounting it on the lathe for facing etc. These will probably be no use other than increasing the rigidity after it has been machined so I will just put some caps over them.
pic 3) I want to be able to move the head up and down to allow drilling operations so this pad will have the dovetail for that bolted to it. If all goes to plan I will be able to get rid of the terrible drill press I have.
pic 4) Finally for now the discussed (in the design shop) bit to allow future use as a horizontal mill and a extra clamping hole.
Post by: shipto on March 13, 2017, 06:45:35 PM
Another item I have been hoarding was aquired when our company brought out a failing competitor many years ago (missed out on a arbour press which was chucked while I was in between factories :doh: ) Anyway it was a old solid cast iron bender capable of bending probably 8mm X 100mm flat with a big enough tube to pull it round. I used it a few times but it needed a permanent solid base and it wasnt useful enough to warrant the space. Now it may seem like sacrilege but I cut it up for this project and pic 3 shows a bit of it being turned into a dovetail guide for the head of the mill while pic 4 shows it in place.
As you can see the bandsaw at work struggled a little to cut it up but the mark will have no effect on the operation of the mill.
Not sure if theres a better way to check but pics 5 and 6 tell me its not bad at all for straightness.
Post by: shipto on March 19, 2017, 04:12:01 PM
Post by: ieezitin on March 20, 2017, 04:57:36 PM
Anthony.
Post by: sparky961 on March 20, 2017, 08:44:16 PM
After much tedious machining with my lathe during which time I often thought really need a mill to do this :doh: I have 3 of the bits for the knee slide sorted out the pic shows them in place but not yet fixed I am still mulling over how to ensure they are fixed on straight.
Are you trying to attach them by welding and have them come out straight/flat enough to use as ways? I hate to sound like a doubter, but that's not likely to happen without some work post-welding. Bolting, maybe... but not welding.
Maybe you should build a lathe. It is said that's the only machine tool that can replicate itself. :bang:
Post by: shipto on March 20, 2017, 09:30:43 PM
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Post by: sparky961 on March 20, 2017, 10:04:37 PM
For measuring flatness/parallelism, the best would be to set it up on a large surface plate, but you may not have access to that.
Can you set up an indicator to run on one side to check the alignment to the other? If it isn't aligned, then you're probably going to need shim stock and tapping things around with a small plastic hammer to get it aligned. Once you get it where you want it, you should drill for dowel pins (tapered, usually) to enable disassembly/reassembly and to make sure they stay where you put them.
Or, using a smaller surface plate (or other surface flat enough by your own standards) you can print it and scrape it flat.
There are a few ideas here, but I'm just kinda throwing them out there because I can't quite visualize exactly how you need to align things.
Post by: shipto on March 21, 2017, 04:32:36 AM
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Post by: shipto on March 21, 2017, 05:40:08 AM
What could go wrong :)
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Post by: shipto on March 23, 2017, 05:17:16 PM
I actually want the one with a 80mm chuck but they had sold out of those so got me the 100mm for the same price.
Post by: awemawson on March 23, 2017, 05:29:12 PM
Post by: shipto on March 23, 2017, 05:49:47 PM
Wohay ..... keep that woman :thumbup::lol: she going nowhere for some strange reason she seems to love me :loco:
Post by: shipto on March 24, 2017, 06:21:59 PM
I have almost done the head saddle but I need to mill out a recess to fit the rack that will let me use it as a drill.
The rack and pinion are from a drilling machine that went kaput at work and this is part of the bits I salvaged from it. Sometime pays to be a hoarder especially when you can hoard stuff at work :lol:
I am going to have to think very carefully about my next steps because I would like a 3 speed milling head which will require sourcing or making 6 gears and if I am going to make them I will probably make a temporary head so I can use it to make them.
Post by: sparky961 on March 24, 2017, 09:39:39 PM
I recall one of my first "milling" projects, which was to "mill" out a slot in aluminum using a Dremel tool, cylindrical burr, and router base. Very slow, but it did work. I bet if you stuck a 1/8" carbide end mill into a rotary tool and took small depth cuts using a straight edge on either side as a guide you'd have it done pretty quickly.
Post by: shipto on March 25, 2017, 06:00:43 AM
rather than new post I will put what little I have been able to do today on this one. Been making the wife some shelving for her greenhouse or STAGING as the know-it-all-father-in-law once told me its called but anyway I was going to use m3 bolts to fix the rack in but then thought why bother just make it fit in tight and it cant move anywhere so thats what I did.
Tomorrows task is to make a hole in the saddle to let the pinion mate with the rack in the right place.
Post by: vintageandclassicrepairs on March 25, 2017, 05:36:34 PM
Have you thought about using a VFD and 3phase motor rather than going to all the trouble making a gearbox and then only having three speeds ?
Another option would be variable pulleys ala Daf variomatic ? also used on most modern mopeds
you would need to be able to control the movement of the pulleys rather than the centrifugal(?) mechanism used on them
I have seen old motorcycle gearboxes used to provide usually four gears on "Mad Mod" machines :scratch:
John
Post by: shipto on March 25, 2017, 06:30:35 PM
However it wouldnt be just 3 speeds as my plan is to have a 4 or 5 speed stepped pulley running a quill which would then go to the 3 speed gearbox allowing up to 15 speeds. It will most likely have to have a temporary head setup to start as whatever I decide to do will be too difficult to do with the lathe and thus it will have to make its own final head setup.
I did think for a short while about using a 150w dc motor I have which came off a micro lathe but I think power would be a issue with that.
Post by: mexican jon on March 25, 2017, 07:53:12 PM
A vfd would be nice but probably too expensive for me at the moment
I'll happily send you a brand new (ABB Part # ACS55-01E-02A2-2) 0.37KW / 1/2HP rated VFD if you got a motor to suit or even if you can get a motor easily :beer: (I've got 1 or 2 from an old job)
I believe that anyone who is mad enough to build there own mill :loco: deserves a little help :thumbup:
Post by: shipto on March 25, 2017, 09:28:25 PM
:nrocks: sent a pm Jon thank you :nrocks:A vfd would be nice but probably too expensive for me at the moment
I'll happily send you a brand new (ABB Part # ACS55-01E-02A2-2) 0.37KW / 1/2HP rated VFD if you got a motor to suit or even if you can get a motor easily :beer: (I've got 1 or 2 from an old job)
I believe that anyone who is mad enough to build there own mill :loco: deserves a little help :thumbup:
Post by: mexican jon on March 25, 2017, 09:58:45 PM
Post by: shipto on March 26, 2017, 02:54:43 PM
Ignore the other misuse of tools the tap wrench was handy to turn it and it runs up and down reasonably well, bit of a tight spot but its probably better than most drilling machines out there and given time it should wear in nicely which will do given that it will only be used like this for drilling. During milling operations it will be locked up and the knee will provide the adjustment up and down.
Post by: sparky961 on March 26, 2017, 04:34:16 PM
It's an interesting project and thread. I look forward to seeing it progress.
Post by: awemawson on March 26, 2017, 04:39:25 PM
'tis has ever been thus :clap:
Post by: shipto on March 30, 2017, 05:24:20 PM
These two plates will form the basis of everything else relating to the head. I have drilled and tapped for the adjusters which I have circled in red and as you can see I have plenty of adjustment to get the head lined up left to right \ | / if everything goes anywhere near right I wont need anywhere near as much adjustment as I have available.
I also took a pic of the X,Y table which seeing as this was done before I started the body I should have pictured before but anyway it has the base from a cheapo XY table that has been discussed on these forums before but I did some work on it and changed the screw to a 1mm pitch and it seems pretty good now. The other axis is bits from the very first lathe I had a clarke 300?? I will go into that in a bit more detail later in the thread.
Post by: shipto on March 31, 2017, 03:39:07 PM
Post by: shipto on April 01, 2017, 02:35:50 PM
If I had tried without cutting the extra bit out the chuck would have been as shown in pic 2, not good but took a action shot of the first drill 25mm and finally the end result is a space where the bearing and a oil seal I ordered today will sit.
Tomorrow I am going to attempt the hard job of lining it all up to do the top bearing as i said probably on the faceplate.
Post by: awemawson on April 01, 2017, 02:58:47 PM
This is particularly true of floor area and shelf space :lol:
Post by: shipto on April 02, 2017, 01:53:02 PM
Too late now however so fingers crossed it all goes to plan or the head will have to be remade unless anyone has any ideas?
Now for the bit I have been dreading the spindle.
Post by: vintageandclassicrepairs on April 02, 2017, 02:18:40 PM
A run of weld around the inside of the bearing rings will shrink them when they cool
the rings then usually fall out
That or tack a strap across the old race and drift from the far end
John
Post by: shipto on April 02, 2017, 02:24:30 PM
Post by: mexican jon on April 02, 2017, 04:44:12 PM
Post by: Houtenkrullen on April 06, 2017, 06:03:18 AM
Another option would be variable pulleys ala Daf variomatic ? also used on most modern mopeds
you would need to be able to control the movement of the pulleys rather than the centrifugal(?) mechanism used on them
If you are interested to use the moving pulleys idea, I am overhauling an old flott drill press that uses just that. I could send you a parts diagram and some pictures if they would be of any use for inspiration?
I am following your thread in awe...
I am not brave enough to start a machine build from scratch, but you seem to be doing just fine
Peter
Post by: shipto on April 06, 2017, 03:00:41 PM
Thank you for the offer Peter but I have a inverter coming thanks to Mexican Jon and so the machine will at least in the first place will be directly driven.Another option would be variable pulleys ala Daf variomatic ? also used on most modern mopeds
you would need to be able to control the movement of the pulleys rather than the centrifugal(?) mechanism used on them
If you are interested to use the moving pulleys idea, I am overhauling an old flott drill press that uses just that. I could send you a parts diagram and some pictures if they would be of any use for inspiration?
I am following your thread in awe...
I am not brave enough to start a machine build from scratch, but you seem to be doing just fine
Peter
As for building the machine I just kept bits for ages before starting then jumped in two footed, I have made mistakes even in the very little I have done so far wait till you see the latest one which I will take pics of tomorrow actually not tomorrow me and wife are going to see mrs browns boys so saturday its a real :doh:
Post by: shipto on April 09, 2017, 04:23:02 PM
Well went back to my bits of steel and started again and pic 2 is the result. I am very pleased with it this is the first time I have cut a thread and made nuts to suit which is where I was at the end of today and apart from my parting tool of sorts breaking part way through meaning I had to finish it on the donkey saw even this went reasonably well.
I still have to clean up the nut and cut the lock nut off the bar which is the job for tomorrow.
Post by: hermetic on April 09, 2017, 05:10:20 PM
Post by: shipto on April 10, 2017, 03:36:49 PM
Post by: shipto on April 11, 2017, 04:45:38 PM
Post by: shipto on April 14, 2017, 03:28:40 PM
Post by: krv3000 on April 14, 2017, 07:07:35 PM
Post by: PekkaNF on April 15, 2017, 01:55:08 AM
I see you go exremes....but did you have to mount the lathe on the wall!
Pekka
Post by: shipto on April 15, 2017, 03:58:52 AM
Actually I need to lock the head up to get it turned upright at the moment I am still trying to decide how to keep the head in the top position the options I have concidered so far are springs in various configurations, gas struts or probably my favourite right now counter balance system where some weight is connected over some pulleys to hang down at the back of the upright.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Post by: PekkaNF on April 15, 2017, 04:37:24 AM
About the counterbalance....that must work:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/elliott%20mini%20jig/index.html
Pekka
Post by: shipto on April 15, 2017, 05:43:43 AM
Nope. First time ever. I swear.Yes that one they have the weights inside the upright which is a good idea but may not be possible in mine due to the supports I have welded inside but maybe if I put a couple of tubes down the sides the weights could travel inside them :coffee: still have to decide if I should fill the body with concrete yet however. The main upright is quite a substantial bit of box section with 5mm walls but it may still have some flex.
About the counterbalance....that must work:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/elliott%20mini%20jig/index.html
Pekka
Actually another idea comes to mind I could just put a guard on the back to cover the weights and leave the inside clear.
Post by: kayzed1 on April 15, 2017, 04:47:28 PM
Post by: PekkaNF on April 16, 2017, 10:50:32 AM
.. :coffee: still have to decide if I should fill the body with concrete yet however. The main upright is quite a substantial bit of box section with 5mm walls but it may still have some flex.
Concrete sucks inside the steel shell...concrete shrinks and when it shrinks it delaminates from the skin fron that on it's just dead weight. If you consider that: read the Bamberg's paper.
It's all very good reading, but this is best short story I could find of it from interweb:
http://www.mech.utah.edu/~bamberg/research/ConcreteCastDamper/concreteCastDamper.html
Actually another idea comes to mind I could just put a guard on the back to cover the weights and leave the inside clear.
Best of all. You can can go trough iterations and finalize the weight.
Pekka
Post by: shipto on April 16, 2017, 05:53:39 PM
I wish I had put more diagonal supports in before I welded the bottom on now but I guess I am not going to know for sure until its up and running and making swarf.
Post by: DaveS on April 17, 2017, 05:47:15 AM
Counterbalance weights are a well tried and tested method and can be fine tuned but I would suggest using bicycle chain and not Brass machine's latest (and good looking chain mail) :nrocks:
Dave
Post by: PK on April 17, 2017, 07:31:21 AM
Here's my take on a torsionally rigid mill column.
http://caswa.com/cncathome/X3.html
Scroll down about 2/3rds
I like the idea of filling with concrete. Adding mass is one of the simplest things you can do to a small machine to improve it.......
PK
Post by: shipto on April 17, 2017, 05:36:02 PM
I do too but Pekka disagrees and I see his point about shrinkage. However upon doing some extra reading it seems that most of the shrinkage comes from adding more water than is needed to make the concrete move better it seems that if the added water is calculated correctly then little shrinkage occurs but the mix is extremely thick. Will have to look into it a bit more.
I like the idea of filling with concrete. Adding mass is one of the simplest things you can do to a small machine to improve it.......
PK
Post by: vintageandclassicrepairs on April 17, 2017, 06:38:16 PM
Research "epoxy" concrete as a filler,
There was a long discussion on it on the CNC forum some years ago
John
Post by: AdeV on April 18, 2017, 12:05:28 AM
The only thing you need to be sure of is that the sand is bone dry before you pour it in, wet sand will cause untold rustiness...
Post by: awemawson on April 18, 2017, 02:18:34 AM
Post by: PekkaNF on April 18, 2017, 03:26:57 AM
I do too but Pekka disagrees and I see his point about shrinkage. However upon doing some extra reading it seems that most of the shrinkage comes from adding more water than is needed to make the concrete move better it seems that if the added water is calculated correctly then little shrinkage occurs but the mix is extremely thick. Will have to look into it a bit more.
I like the idea of filling with concrete. Adding mass is one of the simplest things you can do to a small machine to improve it.......
PK
The thing is that concrete shrinks for 400 years. First faster and then slower. Many factors affect on shrink rate and some you have influence and some not.
Worst shape for concrete "filled machine" is a hollow thin steel section that you fill with concrete...some machine manufacturers tried this -70/80:s and failed. Concrete filling will shrink in time and delaminate from the skin...if you weld rebar to avoid that it will pull the skin out of alingnment. There are ways to reduce the shrink rate or compensate it, but it will not work in machine building scale.
You can make a servisable machine if you know what you are doing. Basically you cast more or less square section, no voids in it, you may cast some features to it. You don't need rebar and other "iron" on it, unless you have hanging beam or such bad idea. And then let it cure and age some time - longer the better. Then use this cast as a sandwitch between steel members and have it on compression. You must use epoxy concrete, injection epoxy or grind the concrete surface flat prior mechanically mounting the steel sructure to it.
Epoxy concrete works.
And as Andrew et.al. said sand or such will dampen "ringing" pretty well too, it's cheap, reversible and has all good qualities to home build.
Pekka
Post by: shipto on April 18, 2017, 05:13:57 AM
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Post by: awemawson on April 18, 2017, 05:38:13 AM
Post by: shipto on April 18, 2017, 06:07:15 AM
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Post by: mattinker on April 18, 2017, 06:32:14 AM
Regards, Matthew
Post by: shipto on April 18, 2017, 06:42:16 AM
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Post by: PK on April 18, 2017, 06:49:35 AM
If you want weight only, lead!In my experience....
Mass is the main advantage. Particularly on a small machine as it reduces the resonant frequency of the structure below the excitation frequency of the spindle+tooth count combination.
This resonance (and some terrible engineering in the case of the X3 mills) is what causes the most grief, and it's why the 20KRPM Chinese spindles for chump change have revolutionised the CNC router business. They increase the excitation frequency above the resonant frequency of even the tiniest mill
But there are others. When the structure is made up of parts of different densities, a portion of energy that travels through it as waves (rather than displacement/vibration) is reflected at each interface. This forces a portion of these waves to travel long paths and get absorbed by the substrate.
Post by: awemawson on April 18, 2017, 07:53:09 AM
Post by: PK on April 18, 2017, 09:26:04 AM
Blimey PK that's a bit impressively technical :bow:Yeah, sorry 'bout that. It was a big chunk of my PhD.... Buy me two beers and I can bore you to death with the numbers... Oh, and I've had two beers......
Post by: PekkaNF on April 18, 2017, 10:15:38 AM
Blimey PK that's a bit impressively technical :bow:Yeah, sorry 'bout that. It was a big chunk of my PhD.... Buy me two beers and I can bore you to death with the numbers... Oh, and I've had two beers......
By all means. I'll get you drunk. Please tell more! I used go on trips with one professor, we hooked acceleration sensors and other transduces to measure vibration and find out excitation sources/sympathic frequences. Laymen had no idea how involved in real life it is.
And granules are different animals. We measured some of them too in one big machine...Big beam filled with sand or glassballs...So, which one is "better"? it all depends what is your question.
So...all this is pretty basic (from post #44):
http://www.mech.utah.edu/~bamberg/research/ConcreteCastDamper/concreteCastDamper.html
Everyone seriously considering should least read this:
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/5487/82f4c63376150991dd323d0ef15a7da2fee8.pdf
At this phase of this project it's all pretty academic and best to forge forward.
Pekka
Post by: shipto on April 18, 2017, 01:28:29 PM
I agree I didnt intend it to get this much of a discussion its more a "what if" situtation at the moment I could get it set up and it runs like a dream or it could be so bad that I scrap all but the expensive bits and not even want to waste a bag of cement. I hope it the first option :lol:
At this phase of this project it's all pretty academic and best to forge forward.
Pekka
Post by: shipto on April 23, 2017, 04:28:47 PM
Post by: shipto on April 27, 2017, 05:24:39 PM
Nearly had a major oops moment tonight while try to move the carriage along I pushed a little too hard and dropped it amazing how fast you move when your feet are in danger :lol: that will teach me to secure it before messing.
Post by: tom osselton on April 28, 2017, 01:05:43 AM
Post by: shipto on April 28, 2017, 07:35:11 AM
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Post by: vtsteam on April 30, 2017, 09:52:25 AM
Post by: shipto on April 30, 2017, 05:32:26 PM
This project is going to take a little detour now in terms of the column, up until I got my Harrison I was using a past its best Drummond round bed with a broken head casting, this has been stuck under the bench slowly getting covered in various bit and pieces.
While sat in shed talking to my mate about the problems with the knee slide and how I was going to have to get something rigged up to sort them out properly it suddenly came to mind.
So I dragged it out and we sat there some more making plans and it is going to be used for the time being, this way I will have a milling machine hopefully capable of allowing me to make the origional design much better.
Post by: shipto on May 01, 2017, 02:46:01 PM
So a bit of 76X38 channel is a good size to sit across the round bed from the Drummond, the main thing about this detour is to not damage the Drummond bed as I have other plans for it. I welded four bolts to the sides of the channel and cut some bit to clamp the channel, on the bottom clamp is a piece which will make sure the bed will not break under stress and also ensure the head will not move.
Next I bolted the head slide onto the 76X38 channel (which I didnt take a pic of) and fitted the head so as you can see I am still going to have both the head and the knee moveable.
Post by: vtsteam on May 01, 2017, 07:53:37 PM
Post by: shipto on May 02, 2017, 05:20:27 PM
In pic 3 I show the table in about the position it will be on the knee and the hole in the base is where I am planning to put the lifting screw for the Z axis, I would welcome opinions on wether I should move that forward nearer to the center of the travel? my first thoughts where that the screw should be reasonably close to the column to ensure the knee would move smoothly but I am not too sure now.
Post by: vtsteam on May 02, 2017, 05:36:09 PM
Post by: vtsteam on May 02, 2017, 05:41:36 PM
Post by: shipto on May 03, 2017, 06:52:49 AM
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Post by: shipto on May 03, 2017, 06:56:18 AM
This being the case I can now look at modifying the head casting to take the milling head once the machine is working reasonably well.
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Post by: mexican jon on May 03, 2017, 10:23:01 AM
Made the base while at work today and fitted the column to it tonight. I could do with a decent square as it seems a tad off but I cant be sure my set square is accurate, however there is one major problem with the 76x38 when its tight it is spreading around the bed at the bottom but not at the top so the head is being taken off square so I either need to use something better or weld something in to stop the bottom spreading.
In pic 3 I show the table in about the position it will be on the knee and the hole in the base is where I am planning to put the lifting screw for the Z axis, I would welcome opinions on wether I should move that forward nearer to the center of the travel? my first thoughts where that the screw should be reasonably close to the column to ensure the knee would move smoothly but I am not too sure now.
I've got some spare spare round bed castings if it would help with the mounting of the head ??? yours for postage? just checked and there is a bed as well :headbang:
Post by: shipto on May 03, 2017, 11:22:22 AM
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Post by: shipto on May 03, 2017, 03:18:40 PM
Sorry Vtsteam but it seems my gut feeling on the position of the lift screw was correct I thought I would test with a jack and on center it locks up on the column I could move it forward a little but since I have already drilled the hole I will stick with that.
Tomorrow I will cut some bits of tube to mount the motor.
Post by: vtsteam on May 03, 2017, 03:23:08 PM
Sorry Vtsteam but it seems my gut feeling on the position of the lift screw was correct I thought I would test with a jack and on center it locks up on the column I could move it forward a little but since I have already drilled the hole I will stick with that.
No need for apology, it's important that the knee actually be able to slide on a mill! :lol:
Post by: shipto on May 04, 2017, 05:31:27 PM
Post by: shipto on May 06, 2017, 03:45:51 PM
Post by: shipto on May 07, 2017, 02:09:40 PM
Post by: awemawson on May 07, 2017, 02:11:47 PM
All the old tool makers in the Whitworth / Maudsley era made a machine and used the machine to make better machines ad infinitum, and now you're on the same track :ddb:
Post by: vtsteam on May 07, 2017, 02:28:42 PM
Congrats Dwayne!! :thumbup: :clap: :beer:
Post by: shipto on May 07, 2017, 03:18:18 PM
Yes but remember, the first cut is the deepest. :hammer:I hope not VT :lol: I was taking it easy with these cuts as the X axis hasnt got the screw fitted yet I was relying locking up the gib to keep it in place having said that it cut very well and I probably could have taken deeper cuts.
Post by: howsitwork? on May 07, 2017, 03:39:38 PM
Post by: shipto on May 08, 2017, 08:56:04 AM
Yes but remember, the first cut is the deepest. :hammer:Grrrrrr I have that bloody song going through my head all day. Thanks Vtsteam
Congrats Dwayne!!
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Post by: Fredbare on May 08, 2017, 12:38:14 PM
John
Post by: tom osselton on May 08, 2017, 04:12:16 PM
Try this one!Yes but remember, the first cut is the deepest. :hammer:Grrrrrr I have that bloody song going through my head all day. Thanks Vtsteam
Congrats Dwayne!!
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She's got a lovely set of coconuts!
Post by: vtsteam on May 08, 2017, 07:21:58 PM
Post by: shipto on May 09, 2017, 03:07:13 AM
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Post by: shipto on May 10, 2017, 05:10:56 PM
So during a repetative drilling job at work I started to think about it and looked at the column on the drill which has a big lump of cast iron hanging from a round column much like the mill and the lifting mechanism is part of the casting so I am going to see if putting the screw back in the place that Drummond intended it to be will solve the problem.
I need to slightly redesign the bottom a little as the hole that the screw will need to go through is being used to secure the column. With this in mind I dug out a bearing housing which will make a support for the bottom of the column.
Post by: vtsteam on May 11, 2017, 08:34:44 PM
Post by: shipto on May 12, 2017, 04:24:32 AM
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Post by: shipto on May 14, 2017, 04:34:05 PM
On the subject of the table I got a temporary end plate made so I can use it to start milling the bits for the table and in the meantime I need to find a local tin basher to make a tray.
Post by: shipto on May 15, 2017, 02:27:58 PM
Post by: shipto on May 16, 2017, 03:08:25 PM
Post by: shipto on May 17, 2017, 03:29:28 PM
Post by: shipto on May 19, 2017, 03:20:05 PM
Post by: shipto on May 28, 2017, 03:44:52 PM
Just need to make some handles for it now and it will be ready for me to start making holders for it.
Post by: vtsteam on May 28, 2017, 09:18:02 PM
Post by: shipto on May 29, 2017, 04:12:48 PM
If anyone could point me in the right direction to order a couple of bevel gears for a nice price I would be very interested I did consider using some out of angle grinders I have collected over the years but they are such weird ratio's like 3.5454545:1 etc the nearest I have found to a proper ratio is 3.9:1 so far. I would like either 2.5:1 or 5:1.
Post by: shipto on July 15, 2017, 05:35:20 PM
After much searching for some gears of the correct ratio I gave up and decided to use some of the gears I salvaged from a old angle grinder which have a ratio of 3.9:1 not much use for graduating the handle with the 2.5mm pitch screw but its gonna have to do.
When I finished today I had what is shown in the picture just need to make sure the screw is nice and square tomorrow before I drill and tap to mount it.
Post by: vtsteam on July 15, 2017, 09:57:13 PM
Maybe some day, cut some bevel gears with it in the ratio you want......? :dremel: :beer:
Post by: shipto on July 16, 2017, 08:11:07 AM
Great to hear, and see that you're continuing to progress with it!Thats certainly one option but I am edging towards leaving the knee as is and using the z axis on the spindle as the measurable part.
Maybe some day, cut some bevel gears with it in the ratio you want......? :dremel: :beer:
Post by: mexican jon on October 05, 2019, 05:42:41 AM
Post by: shipto on October 11, 2019, 04:28:48 PM
Did you ever finish this??Yes and no I have it at a point where its useful and does work but I am not entirely happy with it. The problem is I have so many demands on my time I can't spare any to improve it just yet.