MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: Joe d on February 25, 2013, 09:44:38 AM
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Hi modders...
I recently posted my first adventures in gear cutting.. which came out OK, although I do have a spare 79 1/3 tooth gear if
anybody needs one... :bang:
Here's cutting tooth #80 on the second try. Worked a little better this time :clap:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4486_zpsd9ca4a69.jpg)
These are all the spur gears required for Mason's "Minnie" traction engine which is the next long-term project
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4488_zps444125bf.jpg)
Progress reports will likely be sporadic, but they will posted as things happen :)
Cheers all, Joe
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Very nice!!
I just love gears. I don't know why. If I were ever to build another machine from scratch, it would be a gear cutting machine.
Nice box for your dividing head, etc! :thumbup:
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:lol: :lol: :lol: I have had a couple of those fractional gears too in my time Joe :)
mumble mumble ,,,,,,,,nice fitted box :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Rob
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ps, I hope you started cutting your biggest gear first and not last ......... :D
don't ask ....
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You're showing some nice workshop kit, and gears, Joe. :clap: :clap:
"Progress reports will likely be sporadic." ..... Don't worry about that. :thumbup:
Just hurry up, and show us the next set of components! :D
David D
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Thanks guys.
David; are you related to my wife? She always asks what the delay on things that she said were no rush :clap:
ps, I hope you started cutting your biggest gear first and not last ......... :D
don't ask ....
I've never taken direction well, so, I'm asking.... actually, did them in order from smallest to largest, mostly as I had lots of material to allow
for messing up in the smaller sizes, had the last 80 tooth not come out I would have been buying more metal as it was the last piece on hand big enough. I've been reading your thread on a monotube boiler, I'm in Montreal, so if I hear a big boom sort of noise from the south-east
I'll know who's responsible :lol:
Cheers all, Joe
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Might just be a wet sounding hiss before the snap of a rod breaking, and then a distant voice saying something like " oh muck." :zap:
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Progress being made....
Decided to have a go at carving a flywheel out of a chunk of cast iron :proj:
Can always get a casting if I don't like the way it turns out :)
turned up the blank:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4492_zpsd5c9053d.jpg)
drilled a bunch of locating holes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4493_zps24579846.jpg)
and milled a number of straight-line slots
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4497_zpsbe05a396.jpg)
Tomorrow will see it on the rotary table to complete the cut-outs, and then file, file file....
Cheers, Joe
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Been getting some things done, but have not been posting pictures as Photobucket is being a royal pain since
the so-called improvements... :hammer:
finished milling the flywheel:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4500_zps9178bdcb.jpg)
and then a fair bit of filing...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4506_zps4f136055.jpg)
Have to cut a keyway eventually.
Then moved on to some copper work. Made up a mandril from some all-thread and bit of wood to true up
the ends of the boiler tube
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4507_zps86931490.jpg)
and made up a stand where this will live for quite some time before it will stand up on its' own
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4508_zps88c07d7d.jpg)
More to follow before I'm caught up, but now its time for a :coffee:
Cheers, Joe
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Hi all
Been awhile, but some progress has been made...
I was back-and- forthing with copper bits whilst waiting for a new torch to arrive, which came in on Monday, so I can
start some assembly :ddb:
made a former out of some spare hot-rolled, and flanged the throat-plate, and fitted it to the barrel
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4514_zps56645cb6.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4514_zps56645cb6.jpg.html)
Former and ends for the fire-box
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4518_zps7b1f1d5e.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4518_zps7b1f1d5e.jpg.html)
Bent the wrapper and tried for fit
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4520_zpsb43b465c.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4520_zpsb43b465c.jpg.html)
sweated a couple of bits of copper together to get a piece of sufficient thickness for the pump pad, and fly-cut the radius in it to fit the barrel
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4534_zps96adb8eb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4534_zps96adb8eb.jpg.html)
and finally was able to start some silver soldering.... reinforcing pads inside the tube
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4536_zpsbb232cec.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4536_zpsbb232cec.jpg.html)
and the pump pad on the outside
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4535_zps53da2b84.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4535_zps53da2b84.jpg.html)
and then add on the throat plate and outer wrapper....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4537_zpsa5ab2a17.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4537_zpsa5ab2a17.jpg.html)
Looks pretty good fresh out of the pickle.... :)
Now I get to make a new former and re-flange the ends for the fire box, as SOMEBODY made the mistake of ADDING instead of SUBTRACTING
when calculating the width of the former.... wish I knew who that is that keeps sneaking in and making these math errors....
A little more to come in the next few weeks, and then it all comes to a shuddering halt until mid September as I am leaving to work out of town
for 3 months.
Cheers, Joe
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Looks very nice!
Shame about that former. I know just what that kind of thing is like. But you're really moving along, and the boiler is going to be really fine, from the looks of it so far. :thumbup: :clap:
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That's looking really good Joe! :thumbup: :clap: :clap:
David D
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Good to see your still at it Joe :thumbup:
You made a very nice job of machining the flywheel :clap: :clap: :clap:
Rob
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Nice work Joe :bow: :bow: and well posted too :thumbup: , the Flywheel and gears all spot on to me , I have not tried making gears yet but can see the dilema between small to large or large to small lol I think I would try a small one as test and if it was ok go from big to small then the 80 couuld become the 60 if it had a hitch lol.
Chers Mick
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Thanks guys, appreciate the comments.
I think I would try a small one as test and if it was ok go from big to small then the 80 couuld become the 60 if it had a hitch lol.
Chers Mick
Now that is brilliant! :bow: Wish I'd thought of it... Filed for future reference :thumbup:
Joe
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Heh, that's what I meant way back.
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Yeah VT, that's what I figured (well after the fact....)
Re-did the firebox plates today, will get some more pictures up tomorrow.
Joe
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Well, it's taken a little longer, but here we are....
modified the former for the firebox ends (happily it was too big, so it was only a case of removing material
and not trying to add some.. :clap: ), re-annealed the bits, re-formed, re-bent the wrapper, soldered in the tube end,
drilled that, and soldered in the tubes, and stuck on the crown stays.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4540_zps9bca4399.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4540_zps9bca4399.jpg.html)
and with the fire-hole end offered up for fit
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4541_zpsfcd4a565.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4541_zpsfcd4a565.jpg.html)
Once I get this soldered in, the firebox is done :beer:
Cheers, Joe
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Hi Gang
One last progress report, and then everything shudders to a halt for the summer :wave:
Got the backplate of the firebox in, banged out the backhead and all the bushes for it, sadly neglected to take a photo of any of that,
soldered it all in place, and then got on with the mud ring/foundation ring
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257
/240283/100_4544_zpsaec2dc57.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4544_zpsaec2dc57.jpg.html)
made up a quick drill bit extension for the stay holes that are too close to the boiler tube, drilled pilot holes, enlarged the extension to hold the bit
for drilling tapping size, enlarged it one last time to hold the tap...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4546_zps8f45485f.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4546_zps8f45485f.jpg.html)
Tapping them...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4547_zps4df07205.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4547_zps4df07205.jpg.html)
Those ones worked out just fine, when doing the last unobstructed one managed to break the tap :bang:
the only other 4BA tap I have is the starting tap, the un-tapered portion is not long enough to go through all the way...
oh well, plenty more available as soon as I send some money....
And here's the state of play as of now, where it will sit until the fall: from the rear
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4549_zpsa9a785ff.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4549_zpsa9a785ff.jpg.html)
and from the fore end:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4551_zps060e9dbc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4551_zps060e9dbc.jpg.html)
The fasteners on the table are the stays for the throat plate and back plate, still have to make up the ones for the sides that will also hold
the horn plates.
A little bit more, and I'll be ready for pressure testing. :ddb:
cheers, Joe
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That's good, steady progress Joe...... :clap: :clap:
It will be waiting for you, on your return. :thumbup:
Hope you have a good summer! :beer:
David D
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Yes, great to follow this one! Looking really good. I'll look for further episodes in the fall. :thumbup:
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thats cuming a long nice
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That's a grand job you are doing Joe. :bow: :clap: I am taking the liberty of posting my long term project hear. I am not as clever as yourself, having bought castings, gears & boiler, every thing down to the last rivet. Someone's retirement project, which he never got to enjoy. It is just a thing to do in between other jobs. R.G.Y.
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Quality work Joe and nicely written up for us, thank you !
Mike
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Hi gang..
Home for the long week-end, so back to the forum for a few minutes. A belated thanks to Tekfab and R.G.Y., and thanks for the photos.
Got a bit done while I was here... :update: finished making the stays & nuts, and got the stays in and soldered
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4689_zpsedd54d84.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4689_zpsedd54d84.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4687_zpsc8c23ed6.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4687_zpsc8c23ed6.jpg.html)
Away again for two more weeks, and then back to stay, so some progress coming soon :ddb:
Cheers, Joe
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Hi
Seems like a long time... but I've gotten a little further ahead. The boiler is at the waiting for pressure testing stage, so I've started
working on a pump. Using an illustration posted a long time ago by Bogstandard (I think) as the plan... more or less....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4690_zps40b754a1.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4690_zps40b754a1.jpg.html)
the piston sizes and the ram size are all predicated by the size of o-rings on hand, the rest is 100% TLAR engineering :) :)
even better, all the material is out of the spare parts/offcuts pile :thumbup:
(Pay no mind to the date on the photo, somebody needs to reset the dang camera :lol:)
Cheers, Joe
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You're doing a great job of it! TLAR or no. :thumbup: :clap:
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Thanks, Steve.
A little more progress:
bored out the upright on the Taig lathe:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4691_zps494db19f.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4691_zps494db19f.jpg.html)
Trimmed off the bits that don't need to be there on the Taig mill....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4692_zps4297a82c.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4692_zps4297a82c.jpg.html)
Some straightforward turning and knurling & filing for the piston and handle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4693_zps673af4b7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4693_zps673af4b7.jpg.html)
and that's where we are so far. Testing time coming soon :ddb:
Cheers, Joe
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A bit more progress:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4694_zps0a114512.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4694_zps0a114512.jpg.html)
Only have to take it apart, clean up the parts, & solder it all together. Came out with a 3/8" bore, 7/8" stroke. This will only happen Monday,
as tomorrow I'm going out to play at my friend's farm (raises Clydesdales, ALARMINGLY large horses) where I will pick out my Christmas turkey (He raises 7 or 8 every year) out of this year's batch. Got the smallest one last year, 18 pounds.... :ROFL:
Cheers, Joe
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Joe
:offtopic:
I envy you, getting to play with Clydesdales. My Grandfather farmed with and showed Clydesdales when I was a kid (late 40s early 50s). I have many fond memories from back then. Now to get back on topic. :D
I have been following this since the begining and with the patience that you are showing I know it is going to turn out a master piece. I'll be watching till its finished. :) :)
Cheers :beer:
Don
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We had a Clydesdale, 'Joe' he was called, on the farm for a few years. Belonged to a young friend of mine who used to show him at county shows. Believe me you know when you've got a Clydesdale in a box being towed behind you, particularly if he decides to move just as you are cornering. To be honest it got a bit of a pain towing her animals all over the place!
Poor thing eventually went lame and had to be put down. I think I was more upset than she was when he was shot. Ended up at the Zoo as lion food. :(
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Poor thing eventually went lame and had to be put down. I think I was more upset than she was when he was shot. Ended up at the Zoo as lion food. :(
Sure it's not in that sausage i picked up last week ?
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Poor thing eventually went lame and had to be put down. I think I was more upset than she was when he was shot. Ended up at the Zoo as lion food. :(
Sure it's not in that sausage i picked up last week ?
:lol: Only the best for you John - I hope that you enjoyed them, hooves and all :lol:
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Hi all
had a very enjoyable day on the farm, counted the horses to make sure that John hadn't nicked one for his lunch.... :clap:
Got the pump finished,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4704_zps44586f86.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4704_zps44586f86.jpg.html)
made up a quick and dirty manifold from spare parts in the plumbing box
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4705_zps63582110.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4705_zps63582110.jpg.html)
The pump works, at 20 PSI found out that 16 of the 18 side stays leak.... :bang:
They are threaded into the boiler shell, with a nut on top to act as a spacer for the hornplates.
The nuts were well soldered on to the shell, but clearly didn't get enough solder into the joint
between the the nuts and the stays. The ends inside the firebox seem to be ok so far.
So, in and out of the pickle, add a dab more solder into the joint of each one, and back in
the pickle to clean up.
Will report later with further news :wave:
Cheers, Joe
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Wow Joe, that must have been a disappointment about the stays! Hopefully you will be back in business after soldering!
:dremel: :thumbup:
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Actually, pretty happy with that. Had visions of a fountain :lol: :lol:
so a mere few leaking stays isn't so bad!
Shouldn't be long now (how's that for tempting fate...)
Joe
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Knock on copper.......!
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Thanks, Steve, it must have worked, things are going OK :beer: after re-soldering some stays, hit 60 PSI before a very slight weep showed up at the joint between the outer wrapper and the backhead, and one stay still has a tiny little seep, took
5 minutes for it to form a drop of water large enough to drip.
Giving up for the evening now, and back at it in the morning with hopefully the last round of solder
touch-ups...
Joe
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Fingers crossed for you Joe! :thumbup:
David D
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Joe
if you can hit 2 times working pressure with those weeps as you mentioned it will be fine they will make up the first time you steam it up
you can get more weeps if you try and chase down those as you reheat and cool the shell and maybe unsettle the joints that are good
its nice to have a dry boiler, when I had my 14xx ( Didcot ) tested it was dry the comments from the boiler inspector was that I had bunged up the pipe from the pump :doh: , I had to take put the bung in the dome and prove to him (them ) that i could pump water into and out of the boiler .
BTW the above was all conducted in a very good engineering humour :Doh:
Stuart
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Hi gang...
Stuart: took a chance, and re-soldered the leaky bits, and got lucky, didn't create any new ones!
see here:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4712_zps8445f75b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4712_zps8445f75b.jpg.html)
:ddb: :ddb: 120 PSI for 20 minutes, and no leaks :clap: :clap:
This was the bit of this project that had me most concerned, the rest is pretty straight forward machining,
just lots of it!
Cheers, from a very happy Joe
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Congrats!!!! :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
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Joe,
there are moments that are really gratifying, this is one of them.
Regards, Matthew
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:ddb: :ddb: 120 PSI for 20 minutes, and no leaks :clap: :clap:
This was the bit of this project that had me most concerned, the rest is pretty straight forward machining,
just lots of it!
Cheers, from a very happy Joe
I bet you are! :ddb:
Well done Joe.... :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Joe
well done you are very skilled or very lucky not to have caused more problems
a dry boiler test is a thing of beauty
Stuart
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Thanks guys, appreciate the kind comments.
Got a fair bit done on the horn plates:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4714_zps7695a87d.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4714_zps7695a87d.jpg.html)
Followed the directions in the book, so not too much to show in the way of set-ups or machining
(drill press, hacksaw, and filing, repeat.)
When I soldered the stays, it left me with a nice fillet of solder on each threaded stud.
Instead of milling that off ( and probably causing leaks) I countersunk the inside of the horn-plates
for each stud, tried for fit, took a little more off, tried for fit, etc etc At the end of it all,
they are sitting square and solid, so I am calling this done :)
The one :bang: is getting carried away with the filing on the bottom edge.... I'm now 1/16" past the point where i should have stopped. This will show up later when I build the tender, so i will either have to reduce the tender sides by the same amount, or add a bit of a molding along the bottom edge to get back to spec.
Cheers, Joe
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Moving along... needed some little angles 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/16. Mason suggests milling these out from solid, I elected to
just shave down some 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8" stuff that was on the shelf.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4717_zps381e5f3a.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4717_zps381e5f3a.jpg.html)
came out OK:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4721_zps511cd8f3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4721_zps511cd8f3.jpg.html)
Made up a depthing tool to set out the locations for the various shafts
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4720_zps390658b4.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4720_zps390658b4.jpg.html)
once the gears mesh properly, tighten up the nut at the joint, and use the pointed ends of the shafts underneath by setting one at a known location, and using the other as a scriber to mark the spot for the next shaft.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4722_zps00dc4494.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4722_zps00dc4494.jpg.html)
I'll fasten the two hornplates together, and drill & ream the shaft holes through both at once, so hopefully they line up!
Cheers, Joe
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Very clever! Must remember that. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :clap:
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So simpleI had never thought of that, Filed it away now for future use. :clap:
John
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Thanks guys, but I cannot claim any responsibility for the idea, it's in Mason's book on building the Minnie. :thumbup:
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I've never had to build a gear assembly. But.........
I've often wondered how they were spaced accurately to each other. As, once the hole is drilled, nothing can be adjusted. :scratch:
Nicely shown/ explained Joe! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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If you get it slightly wrong you turn eccentric bushes then loctite them in the correct alignment
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Or even if you get them ridiculously wrong.
I recently read about another person with a round column mill-drill correcting backlash in the Z axis handle that way. Been thinking about following suit. Disconcerting turning a handle 180 degrees before a rack engages.
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been a while, but I've been busy... The hornplates were set aside for a bit while I was waiting for some reamers to arrive
(always nice to have a reason for getting some more tooling :clap: )
So, not wanting to sit idle, I started on some blanks for wheel rims...
cleaning up a bit:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4723_zps60e9d1f4.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4723_zps60e9d1f4.jpg.html)
chain drilled to remove a lot of material from the middle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4725_zps7e0efe72.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4725_zps7e0efe72.jpg.html)
cleaned up the bore on the lathe, you can see that I've centre drilled already to free up the outside bit as well:
this chunk of steel is big enough that I will get both front wheel rims out of the middle bit as well as one rear rim.
Bored the centre so I will have a useable surface for chucking it up to finish turning instead of trying to centre it on the rather ragged drilled surface.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4732_zpscf71490f.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4732_zpscf71490f.jpg.html)
Here's the other piece drilled to free up just enough for the other rear rim
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4727_zpsfb6993a3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4727_zpsfb6993a3.jpg.html)
At this point, got a package in the mail with some reamers in it :ddb: , so went back to the hornplates.
Did the last couple of axle holes, and the went to riveting... made up a couple of tools for this: turned some O1 tool steel
and inlet the space for the rivet head with a ball mill cutter, and then hardened them. Made a small anvil sort of rivet snap to clamp in the vise, and a set and snap with a narrow neck to fit into the space available in the angles I need to attach;
set the "anvil" in the vise, held up the outboard edge of the work on a spare chunk of 2x4, and away we go
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4729_zps3f72997b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4729_zps3f72997b.jpg.html)
And here they are in place:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4731_zps669609bc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4731_zps669609bc.jpg.html)
I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, 1st riveting I've done since grade school shop class which was a while ago :thumbup:
cheers all, Joe
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So: progress is being made, my reamers showed up, so got back to the bearings... reamed the remaining mounting holes,
chucked up a bearing blank using the spigot on one end to clean up the opposite face, sweated that onto a spare bit of brass, and centred pretty much by eye in the 4 jaw to start cleaning it up .
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4737_zpsc5ef7d68.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4737_zpsc5ef7d68.jpg.html)
moved over to the mill to clean up the non-circular side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4739_zps5812d312.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4739_zps5812d312.jpg.html)
Coming along:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4741_zps6ea7e8a7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4741_zps6ea7e8a7.jpg.html)
and then working on the 6th of 8 had a little :hammer: moment, it came loose in the vise and I now have an interesting pattern engraved on the top face:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4742_zpsa0110cf2.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4742_zpsa0110cf2.jpg.html)
so time for a :coffee: and a break....
Pondering options: I can sweat on a bit of material and shape it down to size, or just mill out the offending marks and live with the thing not matching the other side... will probably stop waffling and fix it right...
Cheers, Joe
-
I've never had to build a gear assembly. But.........
I've often wondered how they were spaced accurately to each other. As, once the hole is drilled, nothing can be adjusted. :scratch:
Nicely shown/ explained Joe! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
One way I was taught is to turn a pair of disks whose ODs are precisely equal to the pitch circle diameters of the two gears concerned and whose centre holes are precisely concentric with their ODs. Clamp them to the gear-case plate(s) with their ODs in contact (but see below) and with their centres aligned with their desired positions as accurately as possible, then either spot through the centre holes onto the gear-case plates or centre under the mill by clocking the centre holes. It helps if the disks are not too thin. If there are more than two gears in the train, repeat as required.
To avoid over-meshing if the gears are up on tolerance, the gear manufacturers often quote a backlash figure - one way to implement that is to interpose a suitable bit of feeler stock between the disks.
The method above is not quite the same thing as using tool-makers' buttons. I haven't looked but I'm sure that method (i.e. TMBs) is well described on the web and in reference books.
-
Pete: Thanks for that, always good to learn alternative methods.
JasonB pointed out to me that there was an easy solution to my milling mishap:
Stuck both of the bearings on a little stub of appropriately sized rod, and milled them down together until the offending
divots were gone. Maybe eventually it would have occurred to me that this was an entirely arbitrary dimension...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4744_zpsda3fa7ff.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4744_zpsda3fa7ff.jpg.html)
got them all in place now, with some random bits of rod to check for fit & relation to each other, and a notch in the hornplate to simplify crankshaft insertion/removal
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4746_zpsd6cc7991.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4746_zpsd6cc7991.jpg.html)
Going to go quiet for a short time, heading out of town for a week.
Cheers, Joe
-
Joe, Interesting build, you good 2, I have a dividing head and the gear cutters building the courage to try it, guess I am going to end up with a half gear tooth or possible even worse, will follow the build, Its Me.
-
Well, it hadn't seemed like so long.... :hammer:
:update:
after a number of things getting in the way I'm finally back to the Minnie.
When I left off, I had concluded that the hornplates just wouldn't do, so
have now made up a new set with holes where they are meant to be
and not so many where they shouldn't
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2939_zpscbfbd659.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2939_zpscbfbd659.jpg.html)
and from the other side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2938_zpsd0ab937b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2938_zpsd0ab937b.jpg.html)
and the Driver's view:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2940_zps5c400dcf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2940_zps5c400dcf.jpg.html)
the gears mesh reasonably well, the shafts turn well enough that a little running in will sort them,
so now I'm ready to move along.
Cheers, Joe
-
Well (re) done Joe! :clap: :clap:
It's good to see you're back to it, again........ :thumbup:
David D
-
:D , coming along VERY nicely Joe :thumbup:
I do like the look of all those gears :dremel:
Rob
-
Thanks, David. It is good to be back at it!
Rob: Thanks, and I've still got that fractional gear if you ever need it.... :)
Cheers, Joe
-
Looking great Joe. Just a small slip with the bearing block. As the saying goes, he who never made a mistake, never made anything. My father always told me, any one can make a mistake, only a good man can get over it.
Now one of mine. :doh: I put the water tank filler in the wrong place. Counted the wrong rivet holes. I just managed to squeeze the brake, bypass & reversing controls in. Only by pinching a 1/16" here and there.
At the moment I have rubber on the wheels, undecided about the cleats. RGY.
-
RGY
That looks good from here! I've still got lots to do to catch up to where you're at, so lots
of opportunities for more chances to make things twice.... :bang:
Joe
-
:lol: :lol: aye send it over Joe, it will probably mesh just fine with my 28.7 toothed gear :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
Just sing out when you need that gear, Rob!
Some progress now, instead of re-working stuff....
Moving on with the gear selection lever. Happily all from the "come in handy" pile of off-cuts from other things....
shaping the bracket that bolts on to the back plate
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2942_zpscb4395b5.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2942_zpscb4395b5.jpg.html)
then indexed it around the drill bit that made the hole to remove the bulk of the unwanted metal before finishing rounding it over with a file
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2943_zps992db8b4.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2943_zps992db8b4.jpg.html)
Started the forked lever by boring out the end of the stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2947_zpse5ad9ddc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2947_zpse5ad9ddc.jpg.html)
then through drilled both ends, and silver soldered in a bit of drill rod
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2950_zps5e943683.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2950_zps5e943683.jpg.html)
Cut out the middle bit and filed the pins down to size
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2951_zps0f47e5c5.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2951_zps0f47e5c5.jpg.html)
milled away a bunch more of the parent stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2952_zps82653748.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2952_zps82653748.jpg.html)
turned the handle in the Taig lathe
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2959_zps6586b974.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2959_zps6586b974.jpg.html)
soldered the handle onto the end of the lever, cleaned everything up a bit, attached the fork to the bracket with a temporary cap-screw while I wait for the die to thread the real pivot pin, and bolted it into place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2960_zps19d0b86b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2960_zps19d0b86b.jpg.html)
Next up will be the water gauge.
Cheers all, Joe
-
Got the water gauge mostly done now (haven't acquired the glass yet :Lol:)
turned a bit of bronze, and threaded one end, then screwed that into a slug of ali in the 4jaw.
This was pretty unstable at the length sticking out, so ran a temporary centre out of the tailstock
and took really light cuts. Used a ball end mill to form the transition from the shaft to the base of the part
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2970_zps1d5847e2.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2970_zps1d5847e2.jpg.html)
once all the turning was done, chucked it up in the Taig to drill out the steam passage (the second time around. First time,
drilled it the same time I threaded the end, and it sheared off when I tried to do the turning...not enough meat left for the
stresses imparted :doh: note the high-tech depth gauge on the drill bit. Tolerance of +/- 1/8" on this hole....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2969_zps80574b67.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2969_zps80574b67.jpg.html)
these parts have tapped or threaded spigots coming off them, this was straightforward turning drilling and threading with a die,
and then assembled with some flux and silver-soldered
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2973_zpse1946070.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2973_zpse1946070.jpg.html)
and then into the pickle, and do it all again for the upper end.
The lower fitting has a blow-down valve so turned and threaded a bit of stainless (started out life as a 1/4"bolt) as a valve spindle. The big lathe can't handle stock this small in it's 4 jaw, so for a previous project I had turned a spindle that mimics the spindle nose of my Taig lathe so I can use the collets that fit that lathe in it's big brother
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2977_zpsc1b811a5.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2977_zpsc1b811a5.jpg.html)
Turned, drilled, tapped, knurled, and parted off a bit of 12L14 for a handwheel
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2981_zps6f1d1b4b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2981_zps6f1d1b4b.jpg.html)
Made a really small locknut for the handwheel in the Taig
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2982_zpsadcc744b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2982_zpsadcc744b.jpg.html)
finally, made up the nuts that will secure the glass tubing
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2962_zps002ae6bf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2962_zps002ae6bf.jpg.html)
and after some clean-up with a wire wheel in the dremel, put all together, and put it in place. will work better once the tubing is there!
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2984_zps147d1635.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2984_zps147d1635.jpg.html)
and that's it for now!
cheers, Joe
-
HI Joe
Looks like your making good steady progress :thumbup: :clap: :clap: have you threaded anything 16BA yet :palm:
Rob
-
HI Joe
have you threaded anything 16BA yet :palm:Rob
Hi Rob
Happily, to date my smallest adventure in tapping has been a 0-80.... which at .06" is about double the diameter of 16BA?
If I need any doing, I'll just mail them to you, your lathe is geared for screw cutting isn't it? :lol:
Cheers, Joe
-
:lol: :lol: :lol: I cant see 16BA Joe :Doh:
Rob
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:lol: :lol: :lol: I cant see 16BA Joe :Doh:Rob
Don't think I can either :clap:
got the fire door done;
started by silver soldering a bit of round stock to some left over hornplate, some filing, and there it is, a hinge part
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2990_zpsd13791e7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2990_zpsd13791e7.jpg.html)
the catch for the latch is just a little piece of flatbar drilled and threaded on the back for an off-cut of a 7BA screw that then screws into the
bushing on the boiler. In the it's better to be lucky than good mode, the thing ended up vertical with no fussing about needed with
the point of thread engagement...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2989_zps5dd55e2f.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2989_zps5dd55e2f.jpg.html)
The actual door is also a bit of round soldered onto a piece of leftover hornplate, some filing here and there, rivet on the latch bar,
file up the keeper/guide and rivet it on and here it is
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2991_zps3d125a11.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2991_zps3d125a11.jpg.html)
and here it is where it lives:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2993_zpsf7361471.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2993_zpsf7361471.jpg.html)
Still have to make the "real" hinge pin to replace the temporary one, and add the chain to the latch handle. Two more things on the
"little details" list....
So, onwards and upwards with a lot of repetitive stuff now, making 70+ strakes and a bunch of spokes to start assembling the rear
wheels.
Joe
-
Sneaked out of town for a week on the beach in Curacao, damned good thing to do after the winter we've been "enjoying" here in Montreal. :clap:
Now that I'm back, been slogging along with what is probably the most repetitious machining in this whole project
cut a bunch of steel strips into smaller bits, then stacked them in the mill to bring them down to size
(the strips were sheared, so they all had less than square edges)
Here's the last Stack-O-Strakes getting taken down to size
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3246_zpspmxfbnbd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3246_zpspmxfbnbd.jpg.html)
and here's the blanks for front spokes, rear spokes, and strakes:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3247_zpsxqsgg3zx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3247_zpsxqsgg3zx.jpg.html)
and here's the set-up on the rotary table for the 1st op on the spokes, curving the end that lies next to the rim of the wheel
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3248_zpslvxakrmc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3248_zpslvxakrmc.jpg.html)
lots to do still, but it's coming along.
Cheers, Joe
-
This is definitely a Curacao winter......one way or another! :lol:
Good for you. :thumbup: And the traction engne is looking great! :clap: :clap: :clap:
-
Just think of ALL the holes that will need to be drilled into them Joe :)
That will help bring you back to reality :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
Thanks, Steve.
And thanks (I think?) to you too Rob. Go ahead, cheer me up some more .... :)
Joe
-
:DAs you have seen Joe I took the soft option, went with rubber tyres. R.G.Y. :clap:
-
RGY
I decided to go with the strakes, can always stick some rubber tyres on top of them if needed,
whereas I know that I would likely never go back and do the strakes if I didn't put them on now :D
Joe
-
My Minnie has come to a halt, having trouble (a lot) with my mill. Unable to proceed with the engine.
-
Well, that would be rather annoying. Mason seems to have done his milling with a vertical slide on his lathe,
maybe you could get at least some stuff done that way?
Joe
-
Yes Joe I have the book. Unfortunately my vertical slide will only fit across the slide. I have two options. Cut the bottom off the v.s. ,or fix it to a .5" plate to raise it up. Then the bit that projects over the edge of the cross slid will clear.GEOFF
-
Hi Geoff
Sounds like you're stuck either way. Hopefully you'll get the mill sorted soon.
Meanwhile, some progress here,
started on the rear spokes, gang milling them:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3249_zpseacsbm6b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3249_zpseacsbm6b.jpg.html)
all done on one side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3250_zpswp66alld.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3250_zpswp66alld.jpg.html)
and all done on the other side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3252_zpslupswdy0.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3252_zpslupswdy0.jpg.html)
so now moving to the strakes, got to trim 2 ends, drill & c'sink two holes each, 70 of them (plus a couple of spares)
should keep me out of trouble long enough for the material for the hubs I've just ordered to arrive :)
Cheers, Joe
-
Looking good Joe :thumbup:
Allot of work goes into building wheels for a traction engine .
Rob
-
Thanks Rob, I must agree there's a lot to these wheels :whip:
But, getting there a bit at a time...
a real lash-up to present the ends of the strakes to the end mill to trim them at the required angle (a lot of very light cuts...)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3254_zpsfkeu6irc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3254_zpsfkeu6irc.jpg.html)
Mason suggests this gadget in his book for drilling the rivet holes in the strakes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3255_zpsf3hso97i.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3255_zpsf3hso97i.jpg.html)
clamp the strake in the jig (or is it a fixture? can never remember which is which) flip it over and drill through
the guide hole in the thing
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3256_zpszr60oz86.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3256_zpszr60oz86.jpg.html)
after doing a bunch of drilling, do a bunch of de-burring, and a bunch of counter-sinking, and next thing you know
you've got a pile of left and right handed strakes!
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3257_zpsmdbpepwz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3257_zpsmdbpepwz.jpg.html)
There's 35 of these per wheel, so there's going to be a very short pause while I cobble together something to let me
index the rims on the lathe to mark out the strake rivet holes, as very conveniently I have a 35 tooth gear in the set
of change gears...
Cheers, Joe
-
:coffee: :coffee: :coffee: :coffee: :coffee: :beer:
-
Steve:
You haven't got time for all those coffees, you've got a lathe to visualize :wack:
Cheers, Joe
-
Steve:
You haven't got time for all those coffees, you've got a lathe to visualize :wack:
Cheers, Joe
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob
-
Well, got some strakes installed!
Since the layout was done, started off with spotting for the rivets for the spokes, once around with a solid carbide
drill bit (really stiff for it's length, so does OK as a spotting drill) and the once around with the actual drill.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3268_zpsyqmnxfxm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3268_zpsyqmnxfxm.jpg.html)
pre-drilled some of the rivet holes for the strakes, bash in the rivet on one side, and use the hole in the strake to locate
for drilling on t'other side
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3275_zpswdj3sfzq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3275_zpswdj3sfzq.jpg.html)
Here's the quick and dirty anvil in use
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3276_zps4mlzwpom.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3276_zps4mlzwpom.jpg.html)
and here's two rims ready for assembly (which will wait, the stock for the hubs still hasn't shown up yet)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3277_zpsjet31akv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3277_zpsjet31akv.jpg.html)
I'm really glad this bit is over.... I'm starting to hate my drill-press...
Joe
-
Hi Joe
I like the use of the vee block for radial alignment :med: ,and those rims look marvellous :clap: :clap: :clap:
Rob
-
Yes, really inspiring! :thumbup: :clap: :beer:
-
Rob, Steve, Thanks!
Still waiting for Speedy Metals to get a little more speedy... (ordered 3 pieces of stock that I need for the rear
wheels, and an assortment of other stuff for stock... the stuff for stock arrived Monday, the stuff I actually
needed hasn't shown up yet.) :hammer:
So decided to carry on with the front wheels while in wheel mode.
Finished up the spokes, more of the same stuff as for the rear wheels, drilled the rims for spoke locations,
and then set them up in the mill to cut with the slitting saw to simulate separate pieces of stock as the tire tread
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3280_zpsupmquqzy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3280_zpsupmquqzy.jpg.html)
then turned the 3 part hubs, only interesting thing there was using a ball nose mill to form a radius on the inner piece
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3278_zpsnqivhnlz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3278_zpsnqivhnlz.jpg.html)
set up the centre portion of the hubs on the rotary table to mill slots for the spokes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3281_zpscjvikuz2.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3281_zpscjvikuz2.jpg.html)
Then made up a jig to hold the rim and the hub in position for fitting the spokes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3282_zpspznz6xam.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3282_zpspznz6xam.jpg.html)
at that point, gave up for the day, time for a cuppa :coffee:
Cheers, Joe
-
Smashing thread Joe and lovely work. Did you give any thought to machining the strakes in the rear rims like you have done with the tyre bands on the front? Your choice of riveting separate strakes would have been mine also, but I'm curious if you were tempted as I might have been. If you've already mentioned it in your thread and I've missed it - sorry.
-
Hi Zadig. Thanks for looking in.
I must admit that it never crossed my mind to machine the strakes.
Interesting idea, essentially cutting a 35 start thread, once each of left and right handed.... :bang:
lots of opportunities to mis-read the threading dial!
Sounds like something that Rob Wilson would do :lol:
Cheers, Joe
-
I was thinking more along the lines of a rotary table mounted vertically and at an angle, machining small slots for the gap between the strakes. Keeping the same setup you could drill dummy rivet pattern in to keep the inside of the wheel looking authentic.
It was only curiosity and idle chit chat, no criticism on the wonderful work you are doing.
-
No criticism felt, I like these intellectual exercises in figuring out alternate ways of doing things.
This would be an awfully boring hobby if there was one and one only way to do things!
Don't be shy to post ideas, (and criticism when warranted!)
Cheers, Joe
-
Smashing thread Joe and lovely work. Did you give any thought to machining the strakes in the rear rims like you have done with the tyre bands on the front? Your choice of riveting separate strakes would have been mine also, but I'm curious if you were tempted as I might have been. If you've already mentioned it in your thread and I've missed it - sorry.
I'm not a model builder - but I would have thought there's quite a big difference between cutting the relatively tiny slit between tread blocks, and machining away maybe 70% of the area between the strakes - the latter would be doable on a CNC mill with a 4th axis but a heck of a job if done manually.....
Dave
-
Joe,
I have a similar long term project on the go. It wasn't meant to take so long but distractions have dragged it out a little. If you are interested I've posted a couple of pictures here:
http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showthread.php?5847-Burrell-4-quot-Single-Crank-Compound-Agricultural-Engine
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Hi Dave
I think that doing the individual strakes was less strain. Do enjoy pondering other approaches even if they don't suit
the available machinery or skill!
Zadig:
Now you've done it! Had a really quick look at your project, will have to spend a few hours reading it. Looks damn fine
from the quick peek I just took. Thanks for the link.
Joe
-
Still rolling along with wheels...
with the spokes held onto the rim with some 0-80 screws, drilled, clearance drilled the spokes, counter sunk the spokes, and
shifted to the pillar tool for tapping (first run for tapping with this, what a pleasure!) to secure the inner end of the spoke to the hub
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3283_zpswft7cpor.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3283_zpswft7cpor.jpg.html)
popped it off the jig, stuck on the external bits of the hub just for a look...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3285_zpsfsmazjpb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3285_zpsfsmazjpb.jpg.html)
bashed in the rivets to hold the spokes to the rim, and then sweated the hub bits together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3286_zpshudxs5k7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3286_zpshudxs5k7.jpg.html)
trued it up in the 4-jaw and bored the axle hole to size, and here we are after a bit of clean-up
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3287_zps9lydmdle.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3287_zps9lydmdle.jpg.html)
the second one is waiting for clean-up, and then that's it for front wheels!
Joe
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Looking very well Joe.
That tapping stand looks a handy tool.
-
then turned the 3 part hubs, only interesting thing there was using a ball nose mill to form a radius on the inner piece
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3278_zpsnqivhnlz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3278_zpsnqivhnlz.jpg.html)
Now I do like that little idea :beer: Why the hell I have never thought of doing that I really don't know :doh:
:mmr:
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Comming alonge nicely Joe
Its not quite as simple as setting a rotary table at and angle and milling slots, the slots actually need to follow a helix around the rim, thats why it would be more like cutting a multi start thread. Each of the rear strakes need to be twisted slightly to follow the same helix before being rivited on.
J
-
Comming alonge nicely Joe
Its not quite as simple as setting a rotary table at and angle and milling slots, the slots actually need to follow a helix around the rim, thats why it would be more like cutting a multi start thread. Each of the rear strakes need to be twisted slightly to follow the same helix before being rivited on.
J
I don't see how this cannot be done comfortably on such a small scale - keeping any error to an aesthetic minimum.
The helix is hardly discernible on the bigger scales. Twisting is only necessary to bring the strake in line with the rim. If the rim was machined as per the front wheels then the helix is already incorporated. It would only be the sides of the strake that would not follow and I cannot see how this would be noticeable to an extent that would offend the eye.
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Now I have thought about it, I can see my error. Ignore my last remarks.
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Zadig I enjoyed building the pillar tool, haven't quite finished all the extra bits for it yet. The biggest problem was finding somewhere to bolt it down. It really does make tapping less nerve wracking. I've started reading your thread about your Burrell, wish I had both the room
and the machinery to tackle one that size.
Mexican Jon: I suspect that I learned that trick on one of these fora, essentially a factory-made form tool.
Jason Thanks
Joe
-
Joe, I thought the pillar tool looked like a bit of quality, I had a vain hope that it was Chinese!
-
Hi Zadig
It's from George Thomas' plans, got some really nice castings from Gary Martin in the US a little more
affordable here than shipping them in from the UK. Like your gear cutting, still finding the occasional
bit of cast-iron dust here and there...
Joe
-
Some more progress:
but first, here's the obligatory beauty shot.... a coat of primer to stop any rust while they sit around waiting for me to finish everything else
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3291_zpsebn3d2d1.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3291_zpsebn3d2d1.jpg.html)
Wheels done, decided to carry on with some front-end stuff (was still waiting for stock to arrive)
so cleaned up an off-cut of the boiler barrel, and slit it lengthwise on the mill
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3288_zps6x59ugim.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3288_zps6x59ugim.jpg.html)
once cut, opened it up a bit by pushing it over a piece of stock the same diameter as the boiler shell, then soldered in a little piece of copper
to fill the gap. This then becomes the smokebox, so set-up the handy-dandy indexer again to lay out some rivet holes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3289_zpsp4vhvpgd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3289_zpsp4vhvpgd.jpg.html)
That done, started on the perch bracket by rolling a piece of steel for the baseplate
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3293_zpsfnou5din.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3293_zpsfnou5din.jpg.html)
and bent up another piece of steel and silver soldered them together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3297_zpsbaankb6w.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3297_zpsbaankb6w.jpg.html)
Then made a hole in the bottom of the bracket, turned up a bronze bushing, and milled a steel fitting for the push pole, and soldered them
in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3298_zps01lui9gx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3298_zps01lui9gx.jpg.html)
two pieces of flat bar get a turned spigot on each end which is then threaded, these are riveted in place to provide studs for securing cover plates fore and aft (which were straightforward hacksaw and file work)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3301_zpsmbdkfcbw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3301_zpsmbdkfcbw.jpg.html)
more to come...
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the story continues...
milled the fork which will hold the front axle:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3305_zpsgxudurji.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3305_zpsgxudurji.jpg.html)
turned a retainer for the inner end of the fork, tapped for a setscrew
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3306_zpsnw64lanv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3306_zpsnw64lanv.jpg.html)
turned the pin that will hold the axle, and here's what it looks like behind the cover plate
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3307_zpsxs3wzmnw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3307_zpsxs3wzmnw.jpg.html)
So only have the axle, a couple of washers, and the hub covers to do and the front wheel assembly is done.....
and a very good thing too, as my pal the mailman brought me this:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3308_zpso3narh61.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3308_zpso3narh61.jpg.html)
so I can get back to the rear wheels!
Cheers, Joe
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Still watching and and quietly applauding every step Joe! :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :coffee:
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:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: Front wheels look cracking Joe :thumbup:
You seam to be flying along with this build :dremel:
:offtopic: but must ask , how did you musket shoot ? did you hit anything ? :poke:
Rob
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Steve
If you clap really loud, and the wind is from the sou-east, I could hear you! :clap:
Rob:
Thanks, Mate. The flintlock came out nicely if I must say so myself, get it on the range a couple of times per year,
grouping is good, playing with sight adjustment still (fixed blade and v-notch) got the fall of shot on the centre of
the target horizontally, still got to bring it up a bunch. This is pretty easy, file a little off the front blade, fire a string of shots,
measure how far up it moved, repeat.
Have to ensure that I don't do this right before going through airport security, black powder sets off their little
sniffer machines :)
Joe
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Good to here your getting some range time :thumbup: aye I bet the GSR is a total body thing after a few rounds :lol: :lol:
Rob
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Hi Joe,
The Engine is coming on really well, and looking great.
Cheers David
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Thanks, David.
chucked a piece of flat bar in the 4-jaw and turned a spigot on each end, this was then drilled and tapped for
a retaining screw. Moved over to the mill and made some angled cuts
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3310_zpsukdzbyxk.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3310_zpsukdzbyxk.jpg.html)
hand filed some decorative chamfers on the edges, some straightforward turning to make the brass hub covers
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3311_zpsavwjc3vu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3311_zpsavwjc3vu.jpg.html)
and here it is all together.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3313_zpsppscoumg.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3313_zpsppscoumg.jpg.html)
still have some cleanup to do on the axle, but pretty much done!
Cheers, Joe
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Hi there, Joe,
That's looking very good. :bow: :bow: :bow:
Please could you explain how the front wheels are retained on the axle?
A second question, please forgive me for being thick: you've marked-out fixing holes on the smoke box - does the boiler shell protrude forward of the smoke box tube-plate? Surely the smoke box fixings don't penetrate the pressurised part of the boiler? :scratch: :scratch: :scratch:
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Hi Pete
Thanks for the kind words.
The end of the axle is drilled and tapped, once the wheel is on there is a washer slightly larger than the axle
diameter held on with a cap screw, all of which is hidden by the hub cap.
As to your second question, hard to tell in the photo but yes the shell extends a good 1/2" beyond the tube plate just for that reason.
Cheers, Joe
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Well, started having at the nice bit of brass that came in last week.
Well hidden inside there are some rear-wheel hubs screaming to come out...
Set up in the mill to carve off some of the excess material
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3320_zpsw65hkpbm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3320_zpsw65hkpbm.jpg.html)
then mounted on the dividing head for a lot of passes to round it over, went with very small increments which leave me with next to
no clean up to do to remove the facets left by the indexing as they are really slight
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3321_zpse2riv0nx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3321_zpse2riv0nx.jpg.html)
changed to the other centre to mill the smaller radius
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3324_zpsfmnwwhgl.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3324_zpsfmnwwhgl.jpg.html)
once that was done, still on the same centres started to mill out the inside of the hub. So far once around with an end cutting mill,
next will go around each side of this slot with a 1/8' ball nose cutter, taking off another 1/16' on each side bringing the slot to size,
and giving me a nice little radius at the root.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3325_zpsefjzcnie.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3325_zpsefjzcnie.jpg.html)
Once that's done, remount once again on the other centres, and finish off the slot milling.
However, that's for tomorrow, it's time :coffee:
Joe
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Made some progress with the wheels.
Went around the material with the ball nose cutter to finish off the slots
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3326_zpswvfbkxjj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3326_zpswvfbkxjj.jpg.html)
Then a lot of back and forthing, in the 4 jaw in the lathe to face the end, in the bandsaw to cut off, back in the 4 jaw to reface, cut off, turn some spigots, cut off, etc etc, then faced the cut sides and end up here:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3329_zpsbkgpbbxp.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3329_zpsbkgpbbxp.jpg.html)
put the centre sections on the rotary table to mill the slots for the spokes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3333_zpswmguetfa.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3333_zpswmguetfa.jpg.html)
made up another jig to install the spokes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3335_zpswdllhmpt.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3335_zpswdllhmpt.jpg.html)
and here's one done ready for some rivets
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3337_zpsyzrs9oa9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3337_zpsyzrs9oa9.jpg.html)
Looks like a wheel now.
Cheers, Joe
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They look lovely Joe, you'll be booking your steam test for the end of the month at this rate.
I was at a plant and machinery auction the other day and had you in mind for a long while. There was a construction book for the Minnie by L C Mason. I was tempted to bid for it for posterity, but things were going on elsewhere and I didn't get to see it go through - pity.
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Thanks for that, Zadig. I do in fact have a copy of the book, worthwhile even if you weren't building one as an aide
in understanding the relationship of the various bits to each other.
Incidentally, have finished reading the 120+ pages of your project: all I can say is WOW. Looking forward to more,
so get busy :whip:
Cheers, Joe
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Well, have hit one of those really enjoyable milestone moments in the project:
Soldered the hub bits together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3338_zpsjal4mfpn.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3338_zpsjal4mfpn.jpg.html)
Got the rim turning true in the 4-jaw, finished boring the axle hole and ran the reamer through it,
and did the final facing of the hub
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3339_zpspfdcshty.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3339_zpspfdcshty.jpg.html)
and here we are, standing on our own 4 wheels:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3342_zpsjteyhmea.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3342_zpsjteyhmea.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3343_zpssidb8t1p.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3343_zpssidb8t1p.jpg.html)
I'll have to make another slightly shorter fork for the front axle, got a bit of an upwards tilt at the moment, but that won't take long,
meanwhile it sure is nice to see it on wheels!
Cheers, Joe
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By gum if it ain't a tractor! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :clap:
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Well Done That Man :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :D :) :D :)
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Upwards tilt is a good thing see my reply elsewhere.
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:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: Bloody marvellous Joe :thumbup:
Rob
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Thanks, guys! It's very enjoyable when you hit one of these "you can stick it together and it looks like something" moments.
Joe
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That's a crackin' milestone to have reached, Joe....... :thumbup:
Well done! :clap: :clap: :clap:
David D
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I really enjoy this build I've always liked traction engines!
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David, Tom, thanks! Glad you are enjoying it :clap:
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Spent a bit of time doing some catching up stuff, made the final hinge pin for the firebox door, ,made the locking pin for the gear selector,
broached some of the gears, made the retaining collars for two of the shafts.... did the hubcaps for the rear wheels...
then got to work on more of the rear axle stuff: Turned the driving centre,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3345_zpszczvamwo.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3345_zpszczvamwo.jpg.html)
Then used it as a work holding spigot to turn the winding drum
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3347_zpsf2pkz2tu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3347_zpsf2pkz2tu.jpg.html)
as I turned both parts from the same bit of steel, I bushed the drum with some bronze, then faced it to size and bored the bushing
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3349_zpsfouzvh9m.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3349_zpsfouzvh9m.jpg.html)
here it is from the rear view
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3357_zpsxblszzfi.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3357_zpsxblszzfi.jpg.html)
put the driving centre on the dividing head to cut the ratchet
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3351_zpspqjdloqn.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3351_zpspqjdloqn.jpg.html)
a little hacksaw and file work to make the pawl, and here we are:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3356_zpsttn8kgkr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3356_zpsttn8kgkr.jpg.html)
Now just have to find some steel wire rope to finish it off.
Cheers, Joe
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Fine workmanship Joe, not a lot of places to hide from the camera on the smaller models.
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Thanks, Zadig.
Carried on with turning the brake drum, turned one side, then trued it up in the small 4 jaw which was then held in the large 4 jaw,
as the jaws on the larger chuck would have destroyed the rim on the finished side. (My large 4 jaw is Number One on the I want to
replace this list)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3360_zpstf8stc1c.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3360_zpstf8stc1c.jpg.html)
Stuck all together on the axle blank just to have a look:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3362_zps9wcmxkg5.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3362_zps9wcmxkg5.jpg.html)
Made up the drive pins, a little turning, filing, and silver soldered together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3363_zpspsr44qzq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3363_zpspsr44qzq.jpg.html)
and then trimmed the shaft to final length, milled some keyways, and assembled it all:
from the rear
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3365_zpsu3rcuhen.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3365_zpsu3rcuhen.jpg.html)
From the right
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3366_zpsvvmh8lrc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3366_zpsvvmh8lrc.jpg.html)
And from the other side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3367_zpsdicpcsj9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3367_zpsdicpcsj9.jpg.html)
Only thing left to do with this is to install the wire rope once it arrives.
Time to shift to the front end and pick up where I left off with that end of things...
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WOW :clap: :clap: :clap: Excellent Work :) :) :)
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I've run out of meaningful things to write, Joe....... :scratch:
Watching. Appreciating. Admiring. :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Jon, David: Thanks
Turned some 12L14 to start the smokebox door ring
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3368_zps1guh4g73.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3368_zps1guh4g73.jpg.html)
once done everything i could do from that side, cut it off, flipped it around and finished the other side
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3369_zpsb1yf2rxz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3369_zpsb1yf2rxz.jpg.html)
Turned a piece for the door, stepped off to form a curved face, filed and sanded out the machining marks after this photo
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3370_zpsmubfy2vv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3370_zpsmubfy2vv.jpg.html)
drilling the rivet holes, happily a 0-80 screw neatly fits a 1/16" rivet hole to hold everything in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3371_zpsdze1cgjq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3371_zpsdze1cgjq.jpg.html)
fitting the door hinge
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3372_zpsi3lnztao.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3372_zpsi3lnztao.jpg.html)
did all the riveting, then drilled for the hinge pin
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3374_zpsjenbywj6.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3374_zpsjenbywj6.jpg.html)
cleaned up the hinge, stuck in a temporary hinge pin, and here we are:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3376_zpsizo97pea.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3376_zpsizo97pea.jpg.html)
Still have to turn the securing screw, and then, since the front axle and wheels are done, it on to the chimney.
Joe
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Looking excellent Joe. Great machining skills, a really enjoyable thread.
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Thanks, Zadig. My Minnie parts are a bit easier to manhandle compared to your Burrell.
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Yes, but you need stronger specs, so it all evens out.
-
Started machining the casting for the smokebox saddle, fussed around and got it running more or less true to turn the
chucking spigot
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3377_zps0stczs75.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3377_zps0stczs75.jpg.html)
set it up in the mill to shape the curved surface with the boring head
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3378_zpsveefgwwa.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3378_zpsveefgwwa.jpg.html)
put it back in the lathe to bore through, and then drilled a steam passage up from underneath, that meets a hole in from the face
of the web on the side of the casting. Here you see the nice plug silver soldered into place on the back of that web since I got a little enthusiastic and drilled right through instead of just meeting the passage up from the bottom..... :hammer:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3380_zpsb67f5f5x.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3380_zpsb67f5f5x.jpg.html)
made up the various little fittings for the blower (some obnoxious bronze stock here, pain to turn, broke two drill bits, good thing
there's only 3 more inches of it left...) starting with soldering up a tee
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3387_zpsy5htisyk.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3387_zpsy5htisyk.jpg.html)
into the mill to reduce the arms to length and drill & tap, turned the various bushes & nuts, & the nozzle,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3389_zpsctlhvsnr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3389_zpsctlhvsnr.jpg.html)
and here it is testing for fit, after a lot of fettling of the casting
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3388_zpsnfdk3cl3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3388_zpsnfdk3cl3.jpg.html)
So, with this done, I can move on with attaching the smoke box to the boiler.
-
I'll pull up a chair and watch this looks a super build. :thumbup:
-
Thanks, Ginger.
Got the smokebox temporarily positioned with some 0-80 screws, which let me work out the position of the cut-out for
the chimney
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3390_zpscxjnswak.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3390_zpscxjnswak.jpg.html)
Once that was done, hired the Mrs as a temporary shop assistant to help with riveting, saved me from making a lot of dodgy work holders
if I'd tried to do it on my own, remains to be seen just how much that is going to cost me :lol:
all riveted up, put in the blower ass'y
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3391_zps4o9xudpd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3391_zps4o9xudpd.jpg.html)
from above:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3392_zpsllv9y7oj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3392_zpsllv9y7oj.jpg.html)
side view:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3393_zps7i0erqrb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3393_zps7i0erqrb.jpg.html)
Starting to turn the chimney:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3397_zpsjbt6d991.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3397_zpsjbt6d991.jpg.html)
and that's where it's got to so far.
Joe
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Still looking good Joe, your workshop looks very cosy and a nice place to work. I have reservations though, regarding the siting of your toilet, a little bit exposed for my liking. I think being able to rivet whilst taking a dump is taking workshop ergonomics - too far!
Edit: I've just realised it maybe your stool I see (no pun...).
Edit (2): No it's definitely a bog!
-
Zadig: I'm a little concerned with your apparent interest in my plumbing arrangements.... :)
You should have stopped when you were second guessing yourself, it's the piano stool that my two eldest sisters sat on for very many hours doing scales. The piano's long gone, just as well, I can't carry a tune with a handle... but the stool is handy
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3408_zpsxwmtist9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3408_zpsxwmtist9.jpg.html)
finished turning the taper on the outside of the chimney, and drilled in preparation for boring the inside taper
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3398_zps1cucoi4u.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3398_zps1cucoi4u.jpg.html)
made a former and bashed some copper for the chimney cap
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3401_zpsxded651t.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3401_zpsxded651t.jpg.html)
made two pieces for the cap, silver soldered them together, and turned it to final dimension
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3402_zps2s3cw3js.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3402_zps2s3cw3js.jpg.html)
fussed around getting one side of the chimney tube level in the mill to machine a fake lap joint, and drill for decorative rivets
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3405_zpspgfh6b0u.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3405_zpspgfh6b0u.jpg.html)
cleaned it up, bashed in the rivets, pressed the cap into place, and voila:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3406_zpsek3tvh21.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3406_zpsek3tvh21.jpg.html)
My friendly postman brought me my order of miniature wire rope today, so now will practice wire splicing for the first time in over 25 years...
Joe
-
It was worth getting it wrong just to see the stool, what a beauty, wish it was mine - engine too!
-
Thanks, Zadig. Sorry, but that stool isn't going anywhere. Already fought off the sister- in- law who covets it.
Shifted into rigger mode for a bit:
bent some rod, filed it in half and then filed a groove in it to make a thimble:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3409_zpsbhoxdndm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3409_zpsbhoxdndm.jpg.html)
Need a shackle to attach whatever to the cable, so started by drilling a bit of rod
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3410_zpsbbrzwmrf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3410_zpsbbrzwmrf.jpg.html)
bent a piece of smaller stuff, and silver soldered it into the first piece
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3411_zps3okkqlaq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3411_zps3okkqlaq.jpg.html)
opened up and shaped the eye with an awl
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3413_zpsivh0tcbo.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3413_zpsivh0tcbo.jpg.html)
after filing off the ends of the eye and cleaning up the ends of the larger bit drilled through tapping size and half way clearance size
for the pin
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3415_zpsn5rvmk5k.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3415_zpsn5rvmk5k.jpg.html)
cut out the centre of the large rod and did some filing to shape
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3417_zpskmxcyvjw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3417_zpskmxcyvjw.jpg.html)
Turned and threaded the pin
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3420_zpsyhbcfeql.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3420_zpsyhbcfeql.jpg.html)
This is getting long, so will go to another post....
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Put a serving on the cable
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3423_zpsml4jcmal.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3423_zpsml4jcmal.jpg.html)
made a couple of tries to splice it in hand, after enough of that frustration made up a miniature rigger's vice and things went much better
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3424_zpsj2wgaxho.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3424_zpsj2wgaxho.jpg.html)
finished it off by serving over the splice, and here it is:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3427_zpshuwq5uh4.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3427_zpshuwq5uh4.jpg.html)
now back to some metal bashing, started shaping the sides of the tender
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3428_zpsbfcv4x05.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3428_zpsbfcv4x05.jpg.html)
And that's all for now.
Joe
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Just caught up with your build. I see you clamping the "T" together to solder. Obviously it worked, but I use a different method. I build large scale sailing ships, which need a lot of awkward shaped small parts soldered. I embed the parts in a small lump of fire cement, this sets as soon as heat is applied, and cracks off after. When purchased in a tub put small amounts in polythene bags, put back in the tub with a small amount of water in the bottom. In this way it will keep for years.
-
RGY
This sounds interesting. Please expand on "fire cement", not a term I'm familiar with.
I'm certainly keen on something that would be more secure than the clamps, and
less of a heat-sink.
Thanks, Joe
-
Hey great work Joe -- I just caught up! Love the rigging, shackle and thimble construction, and the stack looks great!
Fire cement here, at least, is bought in a tub, and is a mix of fire clay and waterglass (sodum silicate) used in patching the inside of a fireplace or chimney, and sometimes as a mortar for laying firebrick.
https://www.rutland.com/p/104/refractory-cement
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Thanks Steve.
Now that you've shown me, I recognize what RGY is talking about. I suspect VERY strongly that this will get
tried out,I can see where it would greatly simplify any number of fabrications. We even have it
here, so I won't have to head south to Rutland :)
Cheers, Joe
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That's it. :nrocks:
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Thanks to you too, RGY. I'll let you know how I get on when I try it!
a little progress, got the water pocket done
some drilling, filing, and bending
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3431_zpspnjk58mg.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3431_zpspnjk58mg.jpg.html)
These two bits were then soldered together, and filed to finish dimension.
The plans call for drilling the back plate and the cover with a No 65 drill for a hinge pin, since I've no drills smaller that No 60
I soldered a bit of 1/16" OD tube on each to act as the hinge barrel, worked out OK
here it is temporarily bolted to the tender side
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3438_zpsrbrm1f5h.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3438_zpsrbrm1f5h.jpg.html)
Joe
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getting a little further along:
put a piece of flat brass on the mill to start making some tread plate: handily, have a 5 flute countersink
that was just right to use as a cutter
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3487_zpsqkqyw5yy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3487_zpsqkqyw5yy.jpg.html)
shifted the piece 60 degrees and cut the other direction:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3488_zpsxjfvyigy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3488_zpsxjfvyigy.jpg.html)
cutout the pieces needed, and soldered on some flat stock as a bracket: bedded the parts in a little clump of modelling clay
as a work holder for soldering, worked just fine
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3489_zpseka4oehp.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3489_zpseka4oehp.jpg.html)
some filing, drilled the rivet holes, and bolted in place to have a look:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3491_zpsyx9sy3vh.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3491_zpsyx9sy3vh.jpg.html)
some straightforward hacksawing, drilling, and filing to make up the drawstraps and re-enforcing straps
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3495_zpsngrlv8m0.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3495_zpsngrlv8m0.jpg.html)
and where they live:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3496_zpsezxqil9l.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3496_zpsezxqil9l.jpg.html)
now back to painting some waterproofing onto the back deck of the house....
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:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: dam fine job Joe :thumbup:
Rob
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Tread plate step is so cool! :clap: :clap: :beer:
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Jo, Glad you found my holding method useful.
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Thanks guys.
RGY: that one goes to very near the top of the "why the hell didn't I think of that a long time ago" list. Many thanks!
Joe
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Re Tread Plate:
Seem to remeber this tip:
Anneal some thin brass shim
Get a nice coarse file and place the shim on top. Squeeze in vice jaws, hydraulic press or fly press.
If not steel plate on top and one goodly whack with a lump hammer!
Anyone else aware of this?
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I've been making some progress, but been neglecting to post it...
making some bolts for the cable fairlead, using the filing rest to create the hex head:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3504_zpsmophxhn9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3504_zpsmophxhn9.jpg.html)
straightforward filing and drilling to make the angles, simple turning to make the rollers, and looks like this:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3506_zpsgqvk7wlm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3506_zpsgqvk7wlm.jpg.html)
Ground a tool to make the ring fitting for the water-feed banjo
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3507_zps8u4yu5t9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3507_zps8u4yu5t9.jpg.html)
test for fit after riveting in the floor plate
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3508_zpsjzm4qaup.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3508_zpsjzm4qaup.jpg.html)
partway through riveting the outer shell
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3511_zpsqrf8o4hb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3511_zpsqrf8o4hb.jpg.html)
adding the drawstraps, and the water fitting is soldered on the bottom
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3553_zpscha5uijc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3553_zpscha5uijc.jpg.html)
fairlead installed
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3555_zps6eubcb5x.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3555_zps6eubcb5x.jpg.html)
all around cleanup, and a good coat of self-etching primer and lots of re-assembly:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3556_zpswmwezisr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3556_zpswmwezisr.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3557_zpscizeyzh5.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3557_zpscizeyzh5.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3558_zpshooecjfa.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3558_zpshooecjfa.jpg.html)
And that's going to be it for quite a while, I've got 2 weeks left before I leave town for work until September... :wave:
I'm pretty happy with this winter's progress!
Joe
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Joe it's looking fantastic!! :bow: :bow: :bow: :clap: :clap: :clap: :beer:
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Thanks for sharing, hope it's not too long!
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Steve, Tom, Thanks! This is the 5th year in a row that I'll be working away for the summer, usually get home
every second week-end. By the time I catch up on the honey-do list and several naps, don't have time
left to get anything useful done in the shop....
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Joe, what kind of work do you do if you don't mind me asking?
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Cracking Joe , your doing a first rate jobs mate :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Rob
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Lykle: All winter I work for UPS, the package breaking people :D I am also a lonnggggg service Lieutenant with the Sea Cadets, which here in Canada means I have a Commission as an Officer in the reserves. So, in the summer I take leave of absence from UPS and go off to be a staff
Officer at a Summer Training Camp, oddly enough with the Army. This year again, I will be at Connaught Ranges, Canada's equivalent to Bisley.
It's all fun, and even better, pensionable time!
Rob: Thanks Mate! See above, I'll be seeing some of your ACF kids again this year, we get a dozen or so on exchange each year, as well as a shorter visit by the Athlings, the ACF Rifle team. Sorry to tell you that last year Canada won the matches....
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Well, took a month longer than anticipated, but I'm now back at it!
Starting what will be a lot of operations on the cylinder block casting, a quick run over in the mill to create
one flat face to build from for all the various ops:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4795_zpsk8kpx8jr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4795_zpsk8kpx8jr.jpg.html)
That done, into the lathe to bore the hole for the cylinder liner:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4796_zpsgncpjcyx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4796_zpsgncpjcyx.jpg.html)
Using the bore to locate the casting, machined the valve face almost to finished dimension, leaving a little meat for last minute adjustments
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4797_zpsy9srtaye.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4797_zpsy9srtaye.jpg.html)
That gave me a reference face for the vise so I could cut the curved surface that sits on the barrel of the boiler. I used a freshly sharpened HSS tool
in a fly cutter, this casting machines like a dream! Had an off-cut of the boiler material to use to check for fit...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4798_zpskxtyudak.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4798_zpskxtyudak.jpg.html)
Lots more to go on this bit.
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Joe, was that a casting to start with, or did you fabricate the curved saddle onto the cylinder, or cut it out from solid? Looking great! :beer:
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Brill work :drool:
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Thanks Kev. Steve: A casting, and a very nice to machine casting indeed. Something in the bronze family, and heaps of machining allowance all around.
Joe
PS Steve, Don't forget to come up to Windsor next week-end!
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Joe.
It's nice to see you back among us. And, making progress...... :thumbup:
David D
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Thanks David, it's good to be back :wave:
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Thanks Kev. Steve: A casting, and a very nice to machine casting indeed. Something in the bronze family, and heaps of machining allowance all around.
Joe
PS Steve, Don't forget to come up to Windsor next week-end!
Oh it's been heavily circled on the calendar for weeks, Joe. I'll be looking for that hat!
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Looking forward to it, Steve, it will be nice to put a face to the posts....
After cutting the saddle, finished bringing the various faces of the cylinder down to size as they are referenced from the
inside of the arc of the saddle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4800_zpshzq2goqm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4800_zpshzq2goqm.jpg.html)
Still have to bring the outside of the saddle down to dimension, and the rounded over outside of the cylinder, but this is purely cosmetic
and will wait until I've drilled and milled all the various ports and passages which is next
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4801_zpswmprphhj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4801_zpswmprphhj.jpg.html)
Joe
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In between some honey-do stuff and a quick trip south to Vermont for the American Precision Museum show, have got a little further on....
Milling the steam ports: drilled them out undersized, and them milled them out with a carbide PCB drill that happened to be the required size
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4803_zpsdgedfevn.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4803_zpsdgedfevn.jpg.html)
the exhaust port was easier, a stock size of cutter, and then drilled a steam passage
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4804_zpsy7uevmhv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4804_zpsy7uevmhv.jpg.html)
Milled the pocket on the underside that acts as the "steam dome"
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4805_zpsgzcr54rd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4805_zpsgzcr54rd.jpg.html)
a couple more steam passages
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4806_zpssbporwsm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4806_zpssbporwsm.jpg.html)
Brought the outside of the saddle almost to size with some free-hand dial twiddling, cleaned it up afterwards with some filing, then
mounted it on a mandrel on the dividing head to bring the curved portion of the cylinder down to size
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4845_zpsjypl8u7l.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4845_zpsjypl8u7l.jpg.html)
a little cleaning up, and here we are
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4846_zpsrp4ad9ug.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4846_zpsrp4ad9ug.jpg.html)
So far so good, just have to make and install the liner for the cylinder, and then a bunch of studs for various bits that get attached....
Joe
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Got the liner done,
Turned and bored:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4850_zpssy8hak68.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4850_zpssy8hak68.jpg.html)
Sawed it off the parent stock, and soldered it into place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4851_zpsoq2ul33x.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4851_zpsoq2ul33x.jpg.html)
milled the ends down to final size, and then drilled the steam passages, used a centre-cutting end mill to start the holes, then followed up
with the drill
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4853_zpsmxcis0jm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4853_zpsmxcis0jm.jpg.html)
Then called it a night....
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:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: Good to see you back one with this build Joe .
Cracking job as per :thumbup:
Rob
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, sea cadets ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,way too much salt water :loco:
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,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, sea cadets ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,way too much salt water :loco:
Well, about what I'd expect from a pongo.....
Glad to see you looking in, this whole thing really is mostly your fault....
Joe
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:lol: :lol:
Rob :)
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moving along, turned the cylinder covers, the front one is rather simple
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4855_zps6kn5ko4l.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4855_zps6kn5ko4l.jpg.html)
The rear one is a bit more complex, as it has a stand-off flange for the piston-rod gland: got carried away machining, so only a final
"as done" photo
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4857_zps48motqbz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4857_zps48motqbz.jpg.html)
Turned blanks for the valve and regulator glands
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4856_zpsgqfz6ixr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4856_zpsgqfz6ixr.jpg.html)
Spent some time fly-cutting some brass to dimension for the valve chest and regulator chest, started machining the valve chest
by doing some layout, drilling the holes for the studs tapping size to use as a template for drilling them in the block, and
milled out the centre
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4859_zpstctztqfz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4859_zpstctztqfz.jpg.html)
Turned the outside dimension of the gland boss, and then drilled and tapped the gland in the mill
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4861_zps82dy72jy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4861_zps82dy72jy.jpg.html)
installed the gland, chucked the whole thing off-set in the 4 jaw to finish turning the boss and the gland as one, did one side, flipped it over to do the other side
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4863_zpstgirtngu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4863_zpstgirtngu.jpg.html)
Spotted the tapping holes through the chest, drilled and tapped them in the mill
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4864_zps4bhu03cc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4864_zps4bhu03cc.jpg.html)
And here it is mocked up with some bolts I had handy, studs and nuts will be fitted....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4865_zpsm9rccuqb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4865_zpsm9rccuqb.jpg.html)
And here's where it's sitting in a little pot of alum solution to rot out the tap I broke off in the last hole....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4866_zpsrblpkzhc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4866_zpsrblpkzhc.jpg.html)
Decided that it was time to quit for the day at this point!
-
Well, the alum thing worked, so no big drama to deal with...
Carried on with the regulator chest, just the steam chest all over again with minor dimension differences...
set it up in the 4 jaw to turn the boss for the gland
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4868_zpsknvi2eyu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4868_zpsknvi2eyu.jpg.html)
flipped it end for end to do a boss that will capture the end of the regulator rod
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4867_zps6arjywgy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4867_zps6arjywgy.jpg.html)
Once the middle was milled out, used the tap-drill size holes I had drilled in it to locate the holes in the casting, spot, drill, de-burr, tap, open up
the hole in the chest, install, repeat for the next hole...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4870_zpsqeqnf9df.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4870_zpsqeqnf9df.jpg.html)
Worked out fine, managed to not break any taps this time... and here's the family photo.. with the flashy recess milled
into the valve chest cover just for the look of it....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4871_zps7th8vzxh.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4871_zps7th8vzxh.jpg.html)
Cheers, Joe
-
Some fairly slow progress, making studs for all the stuff that hangs on the cylinder....
Small stuff, so went to the Taig lathe. My version has the original Taig collets, a very small selection of sizes...
but, blanks are available so drilled one through the size of the studs, cut it by eye with a jeweler's saw...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4877_zpsqnllso2o.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4877_zpsqnllso2o.jpg.html)
Then a lot of threading, flip, thread some more and all done: both steam chests, and enough + a couple spare
for the cylinder covers...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4878_zpsnf0amtke.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4878_zpsnf0amtke.jpg.html)
They are all faintly over long, I'll trim them down to final size once i have the nuts (I've ordered some commercial ones, if I don't like how they look
then I'll have to make some...)
Joe
-
Joe, that's lookin mighty fine! :bow: :bow:
-
Thanks, Steve.
Weather's cooling off, you might be able to get back in your shop soon!
Joe
-
I've been a bad boy, Joe, doing more woodwork (bows) :wack:.
-
Nothing wrong with woodwork, Steve.
I've been spending the morning running some cherry through the planer...
got a pair of bookshelves to build.
Joe
-
Well, still making some progress, albeit slowly...(been busy drooling over my birthday present to myself, a nice set of castings for a 1/8 Rider Ericsson are now hiding under my workbench)
milling out the piece that forms the pocket of the valve
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4896_zps9yqlw3ts.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4896_zps9yqlw3ts.jpg.html)
And then saw it off of the parent stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4897_zpswoptav2p.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4897_zpswoptav2p.jpg.html)
a bit of round stock gets silver soldered to that, with a little lug that the valve rod screws into
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4898_zpsaan08o5z.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4898_zpsaan08o5z.jpg.html)
And in it's place:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4899_zpstj55deow.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4899_zpstj55deow.jpg.html)
Then more fasteners, need some bronze capscrews to fasten the cylinder to the boiler, so to work: turn down the end and thread with a die
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4902_zpshv2nxd6n.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4902_zpshv2nxd6n.jpg.html)
turn some more to just over the overall size of the hex head, move the chuck to the indexing head on the mill and cut the hex head
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4903_zpsj4ch73sr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4903_zpsj4ch73sr.jpg.html)
move it back to the lathe and part off
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4904_zpshnm5enll.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4904_zpshnm5enll.jpg.html)
and then in the collet I used for the studs, locked the carriage, and faced them all to the same size
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4907_zpsnzaxyapi.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4907_zpsnzaxyapi.jpg.html)
Only needed to make 20, sure seemed to take a lot of time for such a small amount...
Cheers, Joe
-
well, still beavering away...
some straight-forward turning, drilling, and filing to make up the bits for the safety valve
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4914_zps2xw1nuvv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4914_zps2xw1nuvv.jpg.html)
Silver soldered it all together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4917_zpsodwiokcz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4917_zpsodwiokcz.jpg.html)
here's the rest of the bits, I'll need to replace the spring, the current one out of the junk box is just a place-holder
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4918_zpsn8lwgwpt.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4918_zpsn8lwgwpt.jpg.html)
and sitting where it belongs
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4921_zpsogmp0pfp.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4921_zpsogmp0pfp.jpg.html)
Happily, had an off-cut of steel just the right diameter to use as a work-holder for drilling the mounting holes at the correct angles
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4923_zpsgm9zfcrl.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4923_zpsgm9zfcrl.jpg.html)
bolted into place all the various bits, and trimmed the studs (still a little over long, final trimming will depend on the thickness of the gaskets)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4924_zpshqs8tvk7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4924_zpshqs8tvk7.jpg.html)
And after a bunch of dis-assembly of the bits that will be in the way while installing the cylinder, here it is just sitting where it will go
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4929_zpsryzyglu6.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4929_zpsryzyglu6.jpg.html)
Really starting to feel like the end is getting near now... :ddb:
Joe
-
Looking good I'm watching with interest.
-
Hi Tom
Thanks for looking in.
-
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: Nice going Joe :thumbup:
There sure is allot of work goes into making that cylinder block assembly :clap: :clap:
Rob
-
Aye, you're right about that, Rob!
Carved the motion plate saddle out of a bit of brass from the "come in handy" pile...
Nearly all rotary table work: this is ready for the final pass with a ball-end cutter to make a nice fillet, then flipped it over and did the same thing to the other side
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4930_zpsakusd1d4.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4930_zpsakusd1d4.jpg.html)
Used the wood cradle to hold the boiler for drilling the mounting holes for both the saddle and the cylinder in the drill press
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4932_zps1qh5f7b8.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4932_zps1qh5f7b8.jpg.html)
and here they are bolted down in place.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4934_zpsgayag46j.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4934_zpsgayag46j.jpg.html)
Joe
-
got going on the connecting rod and it's various bits...
Turned the rod, put a purely eye-ball taper on it:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4937_zps94dqbpgt.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4937_zps94dqbpgt.jpg.html)
cut out the strap for the big end
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4942_zpscrg91qje.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4942_zpscrg91qje.jpg.html)
Turned and threaded some brass for the oiler, then drilled it through
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4938_zps7venhj9y.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4938_zps7venhj9y.jpg.html)
Turned, drilled and tapped the oiler cap, then knurled it and parted it off
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4941_zpsfhy78uqu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4941_zpsfhy78uqu.jpg.html)
Here's all the bits, neglected to take any photos of building up the cross-head, it's 2 plates of steel soldered onto a central bit that has a relief for the small end of the con rod, with a turned, threaded, and hardened pin of drill rod, and straight-forward turning for the bearing bronzes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4943_zps3pvmhb4i.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4943_zps3pvmhb4i.jpg.html)
and here we are:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4944_zps0bg4fptx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4944_zps0bg4fptx.jpg.html)
Joe
-
Started working on the bits for the reversing gear...
Mounted a bit of O1 steel on the rotary table to mill all the arcs
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4948_zpsshymqcp4.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4948_zpsshymqcp4.jpg.html)
once done that, just hack-sawed them out, and cleaned them up with some filing, using the ancient hand vice to hold the
die block for clean up before hardening it
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4950_zpss6mswfh3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4950_zpss6mswfh3.jpg.html)
pre-drilled a number of stubs of round stock and then silver soldered them into strips of flat stuff to make the various links,
turned the clevis for the valve rod, milled the slot in it and used some filing buttons to round over the end, and turned & drilled a bronze
bushing for it, and here's the family shot:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4961_zps6iwtdl3o.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4961_zps6iwtdl3o.jpg.html)
and here is the test installation
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4969_zpsesnghcct.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4969_zpsesnghcct.jpg.html)
dug out a stub of CI from the left-overs pile, and turned the eccentric sheaves, here is clocking in for the off centre hole for the shaft
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4963_zpsc7ln5xtz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4963_zpsc7ln5xtz.jpg.html)
parted off, cleaned up, and drilled & tapped for the set screw
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4964_zpsloio9oqy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4964_zpsloio9oqy.jpg.html)
and a start on the eccentric straps: sliced a bit of steel, drilled for bolts on each side, then in the lathe to bore the hole,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4967_zpsw9ei9ko2.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4967_zpsw9ei9ko2.jpg.html)
and starting to file off all the material that doesn't look like an eccentric strap
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4968_zpscimqzhaq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4968_zpscimqzhaq.jpg.html)
Neither of my boys was here for the holidays this year, so I'm getting a useful amount of shop time instead...
-
Joe,
Just to say thanks for posting, I'm silently watching and admiring the drama-free way you're cracking-on with this.
Dave
-
i love it, just wish i was able to make some thing so nice..
Lyn.
-
Thanks, Dave. Hope you aren't getting the floods that the mainland is getting.
Lyn: Thanks, my advice: just build something, each project you will find that you get better,
sadly that makes you raise your standards so it's still work to get to the level of fit & finish
that seems appropriate :doh:
Cheers, Joe
-
In-between bouts of snow shoveling, got the eccentric stuff finished...
silver soldered a lump on the end to make the clevis
some filing and rounding over, and one of them riveted in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4970_zpse8ss0yxn.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4970_zpse8ss0yxn.jpg.html)
after a little cleaning up, here we are:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4971_zpsgzs2tszs.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4971_zpsgzs2tszs.jpg.html)
and from another angle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4973_zpsoysldfno.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4973_zpsoysldfno.jpg.html)
Things are moving along at a pretty good clip just now!
Joe
-
Progressing very nicely!
-
Looking good Joe :clap: :clap:
those parts are friggin small mate :bugeye: ,you must have the patiences of a saint :med:
Rob
-
Tom, Rob... thanks guys.
working on the reverse/forward lever. Pretty much all cut and file from thin gauge steel...
with a little bit of soldering to stick some of the parts together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4981_zpsiqjjeo4w.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4981_zpsiqjjeo4w.jpg.html)
some more of the bits
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4982_zpsl4wf4wtk.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4982_zpsl4wf4wtk.jpg.html)
and where it goes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4984_zpsjuovtwsi.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4984_zpsjuovtwsi.jpg.html)
Joe
-
Just catching up Joe --- you're such an inspiration. You make it all look easy, and it just keeps coming, part after part, little bits of art. I love watching this project. :beer:
-
Thanks, Steve. That's how I've been regarding your lathe project.... time for some updates there, my friend!
Started work on the steering gear, turning the drum for the steering chains. I have a bolt-on chuck,
so I can run the lathe in reverse to use the ball-end mill "upside down" to make the curve on the right end of the stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4986_zpsm8jsojza.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4986_zpsm8jsojza.jpg.html)
Once the other end was done, parted it off and moved to the taig lathe to finish it off, the steady on the big lathe is way too big for this job
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4987_zpszhsyr3vy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4987_zpszhsyr3vy.jpg.html)
Moved to the mill to cross-drill for the chain bolts, and milled a flat for the nuts, you can see one of the mounting brackets, straitforward
drilling and filing, with a bronze bushing soldered in, and the worm with it's shaft which will be locked in place by the eyebolt
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4988_zpsahv3yjer.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4988_zpsahv3yjer.jpg.html)
here it is with the chains rigged
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4991_zpsgngxjyiw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4991_zpsgngxjyiw.jpg.html)
and here with the steering shaft installed
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4993_zpstiw88aqd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4993_zpstiw88aqd.jpg.html)
Sad to say that the worm and wheel which are some of the very few parts I've bought ready made, do not in fact mesh...seems to be a slight difference in pitch. So, will have to replace them, or learn to cut my own....
Cheers, Joe
-
Finishing off the steering business, need a steering wheel...
Some faceplate turning:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4994_zpslfrpxacx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4994_zpslfrpxacx.jpg.html)
off the faceplate, cut out the bits that don't look like spokes, soldered in a small piece of round stock
to act as the boss for a handle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4995_zpsu6xq5r4s.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4995_zpsu6xq5r4s.jpg.html)
Hacksawed off the greater part of the excess on the outside of the rim, mounted the wheel on a little stub of rod threaded to
fit, into a collet on the taig lathe and a lot of very small cuts to true it up
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4996_zpse1mmiqmm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4996_zpse1mmiqmm.jpg.html)
a quick little bit of turning and threading for the handle, and here it is
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4997_zps8wjqku4k.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4997_zps8wjqku4k.jpg.html)
Moved on to the blower valve, turned a bit of bronze to size, threaded the outside for the bonnet, drilled and tapped it for the spindle,
and moved to the mill to cross-drill for the inlet and outlet while still on the parent material
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5001_zpskv4wvewa.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5001_zpskv4wvewa.jpg.html)
Cut it off, and put it in a collet to trim to size and drill it out for the insert with the various passages required
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5002_zpsvkcxtnie.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5002_zpsvkcxtnie.jpg.html)
Having neglected to take any pictures of the inserted bit, here it is with the insert and the inlet/outlet pipes (simple turnings, threaded
and through drilled) silver soldered in place, and the bonnet nut, the spindle turned from some stainless, and the handwheel & nut
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5003_zps8jb0txsy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5003_zps8jb0txsy.jpg.html)
Those of you familiar with the "words and music" as written by Mason will recognize that I'm really going back and forth with
regards to the order of construction here, simply a question that I tended to skip ahead when missing the material for various bits.
I've now received what should be the LAST order of material for the project, so am catching up... will now go to the valve & piston rods, a piston, and then we'll be in the happy position of running the first test on air!
Joe
-
made up the rod for the valve ... just a question of threading it on each end with a lock nut
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5005_zpsltgjnfwq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5005_zpsltgjnfwq.jpg.html)
and installed it
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5006_zpszmczc7la.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5006_zpszmczc7la.jpg.html)
and then 2 pieces for the regulator
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5007_zpsxdgdd30h.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5007_zpsxdgdd30h.jpg.html)
fitted up the crosshead guide bars, simply some flat stock with a threaded bit on one end to fit into the flange on the cylinder head
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5004_zpsy84bppn3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5004_zpsy84bppn3.jpg.html)
Turned the piston from cast iron, I've grooved it for some piston rings as somehow I neglected to get the correct size
of O ring (can always go back and redo if I don't like how it works with the rings)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5009_zpsjd3nxvln.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5009_zpsjd3nxvln.jpg.html)
turned and parted off some rings
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5010_zpsgijl1nj3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5010_zpsgijl1nj3.jpg.html)
The piston rod is just a bit of Stainless threaded on both ends, here's the family shot:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5011_zpsx4vjvgaw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5011_zpsx4vjvgaw.jpg.html)
and where it belongs:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5013_zpsdsqafauv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5013_zpsdsqafauv.jpg.html)
Chasing down a little binding with the crosshead, once I've got that sorted out, have to make up a temporary inlet fitting and fire up the compressor !
cheers, Joe
-
:update: :update: We have a RUNNER!
After a fair bit of mucking around with valve settings and leaking gaskets,
it works... :D :D
It's all downhill from here... once I stop grinning enough to get back to work.
Cheers, Joe
-
Joe, the running video comes up as "the video is no longer available the YouTube account associated with this video has been closed"
JD
-
Looking forward to watching all those parts, running together in harmony, Joe. :thumbup:
David.
-
JD, David: The video should be back... For unknown reasons, youtube shut it off,
for equally unknown reasons, they've turned it back on...
Joe
-
That's a fine sight! :thumbup:
Well done, Joe....... :clap: :clap:
David.
-
:clap: :clap: :clap: Nice one Joe :thumbup:
Rob
-
Well done!
-
:beer: David, Rob, Tom; have one on me! Thanks guys.
Dug out the casting for the boiler feed pump that has been gently maturing on the workbench
for a couple of years now.
A couple of passes with a fly-cutter to start squaring up the sides
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5020_zps9mdkvujh.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5020_zps9mdkvujh.jpg.html)
once done, flipped it over and did the other side, then cleaned up the face of the flange for the pump ram
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5022_zpsq1ryosbg.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5022_zpsq1ryosbg.jpg.html)
Cleaned up the top face with an end mill, and drilled several through holes for various water passages. While there, drilled and reamed for the ram
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5028_zpsunqksh7m.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5028_zpsunqksh7m.jpg.html)
You can see where the pattern maker
lost track of the idea that the boss on the bottom of the casting SHOULD be in line with the flanged bit...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5026_zpsrgqmsqqv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5026_zpsrgqmsqqv.jpg.html)
So, cut off the boss, which at least let me use a flycutter to clean up the bottom face, counter bored the hole
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5027_zpsiag1yr61.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5027_zpsiag1yr61.jpg.html)
Turned, drilled, tapped a bit of bronze,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5031_zpsyzdc8lou.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5031_zpsyzdc8lou.jpg.html)
and silver soldered it in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5032_zpsxakpubeo.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5032_zpsxakpubeo.jpg.html)
It's been in the pickle overnight, so will get back at it later today.
Cheers, Joe
-
A nice recovery there Joe :thumbup:
-
Thanks, Andrew.
On a completely unrelated note, now that the first winter has nearly passed by, how are
the pigs making out in that palace of a shelter you made them? Fit for the task, as well
as a good-looking building?
Cheers, Joe
-
Well Joe, Blossom the Sow had her boyfriend Robert to stay for a couple of months, their nuptials being in the new sty :thumbup:
He's now gone home and hopefully we'll hear the patter of tiny trotters end of March / early April. I now need to pressure washer / steam clean out the original sty, as it's been unoccupied during that time and without their constant nuzzling has gone rather green. It wont be used until the latest batch of offspring are ready for weaning.
Apparently Robert got his picture on the local news where he lives, as he sired a litter that was born on Christmas Day :clap:
-
Well... seems it's been a while. Few bits of life getting in the way of shop time, but it's getting back to normal now.
Picked up with the water pump;
another bit of not-quite on pattern making left one of the bolt holes for securing the pump to the boiler hanging out in the air
so I counter-bored it,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5045_zpsomdlvabs.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5045_zpsomdlvabs.jpg.html)
and soft-soldered in a bit of round stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5046_zpsrcxjep0j.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5046_zpsrcxjep0j.jpg.html)
sawed off the excess, and ran the flycutter over it all to even it out. You can see the result here, where I am drilling the flange for the
gland using the gland to spot the holes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5047_zpsd299ers1.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5047_zpsd299ers1.jpg.html)
then filed down the flange to match the gland, made up some bronze bolts and some simple turning of some stainless
for the ram
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5049_zpsaxokguhu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5049_zpsaxokguhu.jpg.html)
and here it is in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5051_zpslrbip6ho.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5051_zpslrbip6ho.jpg.html)
The pipe unions and the square headed valve cover screws were made up of some bronze, this occasioned some delay as the die I used for the unions broke threading the very first one... the new one works just fine...
Started on the eccentric strap earlier today and buggered it already, so will start over tomorrow.
Cheers, Joe
-
Well, second time was the charm...
Set up in the lathe for boring out the centre...(never got this far on the 1st attempt, I'd split the material and then drilled
for the fasteners, and went off all squint with the holes, nothing matched up. This time I drilled first and then split the
material, cleaned up the mating faces and carried on)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5055_zpsqjhxtugy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5055_zpsqjhxtugy.jpg.html)
hacksawed off most of the waste, then cleaned up in the mill
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5056_zps2hi05ecc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5056_zps2hi05ecc.jpg.html)
some sawing, filing, and drilling for the arm and then riveted in place (I had turned the eccentric when I did the ones for the valves)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5065_zpsmyw1q8rl.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5065_zpsmyw1q8rl.jpg.html)
And where it all goes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5064_zps7wvo4wnb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5064_zps7wvo4wnb.jpg.html)
Joe
-
Made up the valve for the tender tank feed to the boiler pump...
first turned various bits from bronze
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5069_zpstisfg8sx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5069_zpstisfg8sx.jpg.html)
silver soldered the inlet & outlet pipes to the valve body, then into the mill to drill and tap for the valve top, which is internally threaded for
the spindle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5070_zpsuts1fffy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5070_zpsuts1fffy.jpg.html)
Then drilled through the inlet and outlet pipes, that I had not yet through drilled when they were soldered into place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5071_zpsrih7xirw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5071_zpsrih7xirw.jpg.html)
and then some straightforward turning and threading of a bit of stainless for the spindle, which then had some piano wire soldered on
as an extension so that it will reach over the top edge of the tender. Once in place, and with the brake handwheel assembly installed,
the end of the extension will be bent over to horizontal to act as a handle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5072_zpsnxl6gjee.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5072_zpsnxl6gjee.jpg.html)
Cheers, Joe
-
Bent up a little bracket from some brass, tinned the back face, drilled the tender and applied a bit of flux, and secured it with some scale lag bolts that cheerfully acted as self-tapping sheet metal screws.. which were well coated with flux before screwing into place.
Then gently heated until the soft solder flowed. All that as I neglected to realize I had this bracket to install back when I was making the tender,
where it would have been less worrying that I might bugger the seal in the tender's bottom joint with more soldering...
From the outside at least, all appears well
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5073_zpsmiyrx5he.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5073_zpsmiyrx5he.jpg.html)
Threaded the end of some steel rod, and then using the collet as a depth stop (which you can't see on the other end of the vise), machined a flat on opposite sides, and drilled through to fit
the extension on the valve spindle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5075_zpseyrks0yg.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5075_zpseyrks0yg.jpg.html)
Cut the above from it's parent stock, rounded the cut end, drilled the tender side for it, and here we are:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5076_zpsal5iober.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5076_zpsal5iober.jpg.html)
Really starting to close in on the end now!
Joe
-
:clap: :clap: Looking great Joe :thumbup:
I am looking forward to seeing the engine complete .
Rob
-
hi that's shaping up nice
-
Rob, KRV, Thanks lads.
About time you got back to yours, eh Rob? :wack: :wack:
Joe
-
About time you got back to yours, eh Rob? :wack: :wack:
Joe
Maybe one day Joe ,I must admit I more interest in watching your build progress :thumbup:
Do you have a name for her ?
Rob
-
Hi Rob... Haven't nailed it down yet, but probably will go all traditional and name it GEORGE after my Dad...
Made up the throttle lever and rod, didn't take any piccys, just straight forward turning of one threaded bit to fit the valve rod, and
mill out a clevis for the other end, the lever is flat bar with a turned handle soldered on, and the bracket was a soldered together fabrication
of flat bar as well. In place here, with some temporary fasteners
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5083_zpsytcktxgy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5083_zpsytcktxgy.jpg.html)
moved on to the blow-down valve, turned and threaded a bit of bronze, parted it off and screwed it into a bit of spare ali in the small lathe (that was drilled and tapped in place so it is concentric with the spindle) turned down the now exposed other end, threaded it, moved the
chuck to the dividing head in the mill to mill the flats to form a hex (all this as I didn't have any hex bronze in the pile)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5084_zps6fg7tls3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5084_zps6fg7tls3.jpg.html)
Turned, threaded, and parted off the spindle, also a bit of bronze
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5088_zpseqlyrcee.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5088_zpseqlyrcee.jpg.html)
some straight forward turned and tapped bits as well,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5089_zpsuddbfuby.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5089_zpsuddbfuby.jpg.html)
soldered together,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5091_zpshgadoytr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5091_zpshgadoytr.jpg.html)
assembled, and in place:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5093_zpsymkqlfrg.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5093_zpsymkqlfrg.jpg.html)
and now it's time for a cuppa and a smoke....
Joe
-
Well, squeezed in some shop time, got to work on the grate and the ash pan
sliced up some stainless, drilled, turned some spacers, cut some rod to assemble it all on
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5122_zpskpw2oohd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5122_zpskpw2oohd.jpg.html)
Stacked up with the ends of the rods peened over
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5123_zpsxls4zjbb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5123_zpsxls4zjbb.jpg.html)
The ash pan was folded in the bench vise, and the corners silver soldered, riveted in supports for the grate, made up the damper and soldered on some hinges filed up out of sheet steel, and soldered heads on some rods as pins
The control rod for the damper is piano wire with a slotted bit of flat stock soldered in
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5124_zpsvyo6t0xt.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5124_zpsvyo6t0xt.jpg.html)
And here it is where it lives:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5125_zpsqhhpjicy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5125_zpsqhhpjicy.jpg.html)
I'm not to crazy about the locking handle as drawn, so I will most likely make up something a little more in keeping with the look of the engine
And now have turned to some of the brown stuff: need to make up the blocks for the brake
turned some nice dry hard maple:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5128_zps9m5bjns1.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5128_zps9m5bjns1.jpg.html)
Set up my handy-dandy toolpost that lets me turn stuff to the extreme edge of the Taig's envelope, and parting off a ring of the maple
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5129_zpspytqfc03.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5129_zpspytqfc03.jpg.html)
and here it is
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5130_zpsqipwjobf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5130_zpsqipwjobf.jpg.html)
this will be cut into small segments and fastened to to the brake band....
Joe
-
Nice going Joe :thumbup:
Always interesting to see your machining setups .
Rob
-
Enjoying the build Joe. Nice to see that she goes! As for the name isn't is traditional to named it after the person that has been neglected during the build, partner cat or whatever?
Thanks for the well written narrative!
-
Thanks, Rob. Andrew: you're trying to get me in trouble with SWMBO? Might get away with naming a Lamborghini or Porsche after her,
not so sure she'd like to be commemorated by a model of century-old tractor technology....
Got the wood segments cut out, and fastened to a strip of re-purposed clock spring (Which was a bugger to drill even after
annealing)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5131_zpsfgnavpuh.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5131_zpsfgnavpuh.jpg.html)
Started on the bracket the ties together all the brake stuff: needed a tapered hole for the brake shaft, finally got a use for the really cheap-o
tapered reamer that I bought 20 years ago for de-burring some copper plumbing line
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5132_zpsetetdui7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5132_zpsetetdui7.jpg.html)
some hack-saw and file work, milled some recesses to hold the gusset in position for soldering, and turned the shaft that the brake lever
rides on, drilled and tapped the blind-end of the first bit, again, just to hold it in position for soldering
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5133_zpsrzo5x360.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5133_zpsrzo5x360.jpg.html)
and here it is dry-fitted, will get the torch out tomorrow...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5134_zpspxhlgi1a.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5134_zpspxhlgi1a.jpg.html)
Joe
-
Turned and threaded some rod for the brake shaft, silver soldered a collar on it
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5171_zpskhavz3dj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5171_zpskhavz3dj.jpg.html)
made up the pair of plates that hold every thing together, and various pins that hold the brake band and a tapped one for the brake shaft,
took a picture of it but it didn't turn out, so you will have to imagine it.... so instead, here it is all assembled in place.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5174_zpsfzvytei9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5174_zpsfzvytei9.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5175_zps1awyp4of.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5175_zps1awyp4of.jpg.html)
Hand wheel to make and the brakes are done
Joe
-
Looks great!
-
Thanks, Tom.
Quick little bit of work to make the hand wheel: set up the rotary table, milled the various diameters
Then milled out the spokes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5177_zpskw6jz4xd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5177_zpskw6jz4xd.jpg.html)
cut out the wheel from the parent stock, a quick lick with a file in the lathe to round it over, tapped the central hole,
and here it is.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5179_zpsyjoiwzwf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5179_zpsyjoiwzwf.jpg.html)
Joe
-
Nice job Joe,
Interesting thread and build log. Fascinating to see the parts slowly coming together as you create this probably not so mini project.
If I understand the most recent photos and text correctly you milled through the spoke holes but left some metal on the web / spokes and outside diameter, finally cutting out.
Question, Did you flip the blank to relieve the rear of the web / spokes or leave them flat on the rear?
Just trying to get my head around the method used.
Thanks,
John B
-
Hi John
Thanks for the kind words. As drawn, the underside of the handwheel is flat, so I made it so...
saved me the trouble of getting it centred to relieve it! So, simply cut it out where I had milled down
the outside diameter, screwed it on to a little threaded stub in a collet and with VERY small cuts trued it up and rounded
it over.
Cheers, Joe
-
Thanks Joe,
That's how I imagined it. Nice to know that I got it right. Way beyond my current level of doing but I learn heaps following these threads. Just need to recall the tips and tricks I see down the track if ever I attempt something as involved.
Regards,
John B
-
John: Just dig in and do it! Many of the things required on this one were "firsts" for me....
Started tidying up some loose ends, made up the simulated oilers for the front wheels, straight forward
turning and threading
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5180_zpsak6swoqv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5180_zpsak6swoqv.jpg.html)
and the covers for the oiling points on the shaft bearings, turned & drilled, the bit that sits in the bearing is split vertically, to keep the
covers in place with spring action
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5181_zpspn5d5tim.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5181_zpspn5d5tim.jpg.html)
and the locking pin for the gear selector
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5182_zpsxlqdm14l.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5182_zpsxlqdm14l.jpg.html)
You can just see the bit of chain hanging down from the bracket that will be secured to the ring of the pin
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5191_zpsy15n3zxx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5191_zpsy15n3zxx.jpg.html)
Stay tuned... more to follow...
-
And now the fun bit, a while back I mentioned that the commercially sourced worm and wheel for the steering
didn't actually mesh..... so finally got to making a new wheel.
Turned up a blank of brass and silver soldered it to a spare bit of steel rod
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5194_zpslgpfgpf7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5194_zpslgpfgpf7.jpg.html)
made up a fixture out of some flat stock out of the come in useful pile...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5195_zpsyjlm4ytm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5195_zpsyjlm4ytm.jpg.html)
And here's the lucky part, the worm measures up at a very nice 3/8" - 16 thread, so acquired a spiral flute tap in that size, centred it in the
4 jaw, put the blank in it's fixture in a tool holder and squared it up, ran it in at a pretty low speed, and Happy Days, it worked!
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5197_zpstpgmqhth.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5197_zpstpgmqhth.jpg.html)
Here's the factory-made one on the left, and the new one on the right
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5198_zpsjlbmkxr3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5198_zpsjlbmkxr3.jpg.html)
Set-up in the drill press to drill through for the eyebolt the secures the gear shaft inside the steering drum
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5200_zps3st3boti.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5200_zps3st3boti.jpg.html)
and everything back where it belongs
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5199_zps64lqst7i.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5199_zps64lqst7i.jpg.html)
Shouldn't have to come off many more times, so the socket head cap screws will disappear soon too.
More importantly, chuffed to report that the thing now works as it should.
Joe
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Nice easy solution how you hobbed that gear.
You thread is real eye-candy. Thanks for posting so many detailed photos.
Mark
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John: Just dig in and do it! Many of the things required on this one were "firsts" for me....
Joe, thanks for the encouragement.
Well, as a member of a local model engineering club I have the annual club challenge to get stuck into - (AFTER I find my bench somewhere under all that stuff that accumulates on any horizontal workshop surface).
This year it's Elmer's H Twin wobbler at twice the original size. Supposedly it will take two weeks but at my speed probably two months. The last three challenges were various Stirling engines. It is interesting to see the variations on the design and materials that members come up with. We get judged on appearance and how well (or if) it runs.
As Stirlings hate friction, at least a wobbler will be, (Hopefully) more forgiving in that respect. My last years effort failed to run on judging day but I did get it to behave later. Oh well, at least it ran eventually. Plus I learned a lot from the attempt, which is what it's all about for me.
John B
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Mark, Thanks! John, I've never done a wobbler yet, going to have to correct that one of these days...
Catching up on some more stuff that got passed by earlier on...
turned and threaded a bit of steel rod,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5205_zps0io1zrc8.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5205_zps0io1zrc8.jpg.html)
rounded over the end, and drilled it for a handle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5206_zpsf7tiq1dw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5206_zpsf7tiq1dw.jpg.html)
Turned a short handle and silver soldered it in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5208_zpshtlxmfrb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5208_zpshtlxmfrb.jpg.html)
and here it is holding the firedoor closed... and made up the final hinge pin as well, replacing the bent up piece of brass that
was temporarily serving...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5211_zpskkimyx0q.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5211_zpskkimyx0q.jpg.html)
Then did the pipe runs from the pump to the tank & valve
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5212_zpshsy1byop.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5212_zpshsy1byop.jpg.html)
and another view:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5213_zpsgcgovrbx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5213_zpsgcgovrbx.jpg.html)
and more to follow....
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A fun little bit here, decided to add some tensioning turnbuckles/bottle screws similar to the Burrell engine plans that I have (just because I like the look of them)
started with turning the bodies of the bottles:
drilled through tapping size for the screw to come, then milled the slot, and parted them off the parent stock.
Then turned the eyes, milled the flat on them, and cross drilled:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5217_zpsmhinwnpj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5217_zpsmhinwnpj.jpg.html)
Parted off the eyes, finished them with some filing, and then peened over the short little shaft inside the body of the bottle:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5218_zpsont6nm4d.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5218_zpsont6nm4d.jpg.html)
Turned and threaded some more stock for the screws, here they are in the mill for cutting the flats and cross drilling
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5224_zps9ps0ssnj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5224_zps9ps0ssnj.jpg.html)
The "Ta-Dahhh" photo:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5225_zpsugozs7mq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5225_zpsugozs7mq.jpg.html)
and in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5228_zpsmqk1hkns.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5228_zpsmqk1hkns.jpg.html)
Then after that photo, undid them, and rewound the chains on the drum other way about as I had reversed them. Turning steering wheel right
should not make your vehicle turn left, now should it?
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Scratch another one off the list: Pressure gauge in place:
Made up the bracket, (drill two holes, bend, & file)
made a nut, bent up some tube:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5229_zpsgdb1soig.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5229_zpsgdb1soig.jpg.html)
And here it is, the plans called for it to be secured at the lower bolt that you see on the right just above the third shaft...
having used up almost all of the copper tubing I had on hand trying to get the bends to accommodate that position, gave up and mounted it higher.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5230_zpsfmbqpjgf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5230_zpsfmbqpjgf.jpg.html)
Although it seems all squint in the picture, it is actually straight... just a weird photo angle.
Joe
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I decided that I liked the look of a gear cover, (which Mason did not include in his drawings) so drew gear-sized circles
on some card stock and scissored away all that didn't look the part. Once I had a shape that I liked, cut out two of them
from some brass sheet. Then I bent up some thin brass stock to bridge the gap between the front and rear plates,
and riveted them in place. Added a strip to cover that space, riveted that in place, the soft soldered the heck out of it.
After some cleaning up, it looked like this: (I gave all the rivets a good bit of the soft solder as well, then filed the heads off in the clean-up phase of things)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5231_zpshmpbtpaw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5231_zpshmpbtpaw.jpg.html)
I had already silver soldered some round stock studs on the outside of the rear piece, two of them are drilled and tapped for bolts through the horn plate to hold it in place, and the lower one is simply a spacer. I had also cut away all of the inner plate that would have fouled on various things already bolted onto the hornplate. You can just make out some of the thin brass cross-pieces in this shot. At this point, there is a coat of self-etching primer as well.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5235_zpsbtauibax.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5235_zpsbtauibax.jpg.html)
And voila:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5234_zpsa4hwkcha.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5234_zpsa4hwkcha.jpg.html)
Joe
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Got to work on the lubricator assembly....
some milling, then set up in the lathe to drill and ream the bore of the cylinder:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5236_zps9cvytqby.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5236_zps9cvytqby.jpg.html)
Then back in the mill to drill two No 65 holes as oil ports
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5237_zpsxk7e4xou.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5237_zpsxk7e4xou.jpg.html)
parted that off, and then turned some o-1 drill rod (silver steel) to size, and into the the dividing head to cut the ratchet wheel
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5241_zps1xc6wx1y.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5241_zps1xc6wx1y.jpg.html)
parted that off and and hardened it, then milled up a bit of spare ali as a former for the brass tank parts
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5244_zpsdcycier3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5244_zpsdcycier3.jpg.html)
cleaned up, well fluxed, wired into place, and silver soldered
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5245_zpsovdo2zuk.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5245_zpsovdo2zuk.jpg.html)
all the other bits were simple turning or drilling, bending and filing...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5249_zpsqjaivhce.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5249_zpsqjaivhce.jpg.html)
and that's the state of play to date...
have to fettle the fit of the ratchet dogs, get the springs sorted, and make up the pipe and valve that join the lubricator to the valve chest, and the lever that rides the valve shaft to actuate the ratchet, then need to make up the pipe that joins the blower valve to the chimney saddle, handles for the bypass valve and the damper control rod,
and a pipe for the blowdown valve on the sight glass assembly...and then it's done, bar complete dis-assembly and painting!
Sadly, all that is now on hold, as I am leaving town tomorrow for a summer contract in Ottawa... will have the occasional week-end at home,
so hopefully will complete those last few bits over the summer and will get to painting in September...
Joe
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Hope you have a good summer Joe - we'll all be waiting & watching when you get back!
Dave (IOM)
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Nice job Joe , that mechanical lubricator is a project in itself :clap: :clap: :clap:
Will be here waiting for your return :coffee:
Rob