MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Gallery => Topic started by: Joules on March 08, 2017, 10:46:09 AM
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Been meaning to make one of these for ages, can't really use the workshop as floor paint is drying so mostly made this in the front room whilst other half out at work. :D
Components being, dogs tuna tin from last night, 22-15mm copper fitting with a wrap of 2mm copper wire to fillet the joint. Not very fancy, but killed an hour on a slow day.
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Nice one Joules but why didn't you 3D print one :lol:
Mine is a child's unspillable paint pot, with a rare earth magnet tossed in the bottom to stop it being knocked off the lathe so easily :ddb:
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Mine is a child's unspillable paint pot, with a rare earth magnet tossed in the bottom to stop it being knocked off the lathe so easily :ddb:
You just have to go one better dont ya? !........ :lol:
Picture? :worthless:
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dogs tuna - is that tuna made from dogs? Or dog-flavoured Tuna? :lol:
More to the point, how did you get the lid back on without any form of damage???
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Magican opener leaves a really clean edge. I was able to flare this outwards with smooth pliers. Now the lids cut edge sits inside the can. Needle file to rough the edge and take off any coatings. Flux and tin the edge with flux cored solder. The metal is so thin you don't need a big iron. Prep the lid, needed a bit more heat to solder the copper fitting. Tin the lid inner edge, now press fit and using the soldering iron slowly melt the solder at the tin/ lid joint all round. Add a little solder if needed to get a continuos seem. Clean up and cool down, now blow into the copper fitting and see if the can leaks. If it's sealed your all done, add oil and pour out excess from can back into bottle.
3D printed version is good for straining particles out of the oil. LOL
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Yeah Ade, you know tuna, four legs and barks ???
This is the soldered edge I got on the tin, modern coatings makes good solder mask so you only need a needle file and light touch to open enough metal to tin with an iron, not much more than a scratch then wick the solder round the can joint. (too many tins)
*** Well that was a big cock up trying to edit and resize an image on an iPad ***
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Mine is a child's unspillable paint pot, with a rare earth magnet tossed in the bottom to stop it being knocked off the lathe so easily :ddb:
You just have to go one better dont ya? !........ :lol:
Picture? :worthless:
Here you go:
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On a roll now :)
Made a second one for other lathe. With what I learned from the first can, I soldered the reinforcing wire to the underside of the lid. Don't really know why I didn't do it the first time round.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y253/joulesbee/Eagle%20oil%20can/IMG_0190_zpsjim7tgn8.jpg) (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/joulesbee/media/Eagle%20oil%20can/IMG_0190_zpsjim7tgn8.jpg.html)
it was actually easier to solder as the ring is smaller this side and the solder easier to wick round.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y253/joulesbee/Eagle%20oil%20can/IMG_0191_zpsypvmdji4.jpg) (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/joulesbee/media/Eagle%20oil%20can/IMG_0191_zpsypvmdji4.jpg.html)
Much neater topside with solder flashed all round the joint. Only apply heat to the copper fitting and you won't set fire to the coating on the can.
p.s Dog now turning his nose up at Tuna :scratch:
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All you need now is a small magnet in the bottom and it won’t spill. :thumbup:
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So... do you just pour the oil out of the top, then?
Whilst I can appreciate the cheapness, wouldn't it be easier to just use a cheapo thumb-pump type can?
(https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/t/oil-can-3609589.jpg)
I bought a couple of them for about a fiver, with a semi-flexible spout rather than the one pictured. Great for dropping oil on a parting-off tool... Of course, you do need that third hand to hold it...
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So... do you just pour the oil out of the top, then?
Whilst I can appreciate the cheapness, wouldn't it be easier to just use a cheapo thumb-pump type can?
(https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/t/oil-can-3609589.jpg)
I bought a couple of them for about a fiver, with a semi-flexible spout rather than the one pictured. Great for dropping oil on a parting-off tool... Of course, you do need that third hand to hold it...
If you run the parting off/crosslide on auto you won't need that third hand... providing you've got power X feed...?
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Ade,
By having a 'paste brush' in the pot you can apply small quantities of oil where and when you need it without bringing something metallic into the vacinity of fast spinning bits that you are turning, drilling etc
If you look at the child's paint pot picture that I posted, the brush is in situ
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... providing you've got power X feed...?
Wouldnt be without it for parting off......
I use the inexpensive WD40 equivalent from Screwfix for applying lube.....£5 a tin....
http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-penetrating-lubricating-oil-750ml/19320
Good for spraying the machine all over after cleaning down..too..
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:coffee: it's not the cost, it's about making something. You can spend an hour in front of the TV or you can spend an hour in the workshop and improve your maker skills. This is Mad Modders, so converting an empty tin of fish and a plumbing fitting into a useful workshop widget should be seen for what it is. Otherwise we might as well be Mad Couldn't be Arsed to Make.
:doh:
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I do agree with you Joules, but that approach cannot be taken too far or we'd all be making our own nuts and bolts - ok I do sometimes where a 'special' is needed :med:
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And that's why I come here, to see the guy who has to make his own nuts and bolts, takes the time to learn screw cutting showing where they went wrong and why brass makes crap cutting tools.... Simple stuff can inspire others to have a go, especially if they have limited resources and skills. This is a great mentoring project.
A bit of imagination and it could be the basis of a DIY hurricane or table lamp.
:poke: I'm just a grumpy git at the moment, can't get in the workshop.
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I empathise - friends 80th birthday do at the local hotel lunchtime, so best bib and tucker and clean fingernails :bang:
(Mind you I did manage to bore out a flexible linkage for my Z axis rebuild project first thing this morning :ddb: )
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:poke: I'm just a grumpy git at the moment, can't get in the workshop.
I'm just a grumpy git....old at that too.....cant be a**ed with the workshop.....not happy with my lathe at the moment so wondering what to do with it.....think it needs some :proj: for the tailstock ram screw....
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All you need now is a small magnet in the bottom and it won’t spill. :thumbup:
I did have a large round magnet from a vcr that would realky suit something like this, but I dropped it, it broke in half..., :Doh:
But the fluid wont spill anyway as that is the purpose of the design surely?.... :scratch:
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Thats great news John, two magnets for the price of one. Had my day cheered up by a visit from Rob Wilson, so not as grumpy as earlier....
The oil can is none spill, unless your very determined.
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Had my day cheered up by a visit from Rob Wilson, so not as grumpy as earlier....
Yeah Rob is good fun to be around, I've often paid him a visit when up at Gateshead.....makes a good brew.. :thumbup:
Right I'm off to buy some tuna..... :clap: Gonna make me one of those non spilling oil dippy things with a mag base... :clap:
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Or, take the easy way out and use a Fairy Liquid bottle with a little brass nozzle. :wave:
Pete
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Or as I did, buy the grand children some unspillable paint pots and keep one for yourself - that way you get Brownie Points AND an oil dispenser :lol:
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it depends on how full and which way up it falls John. My toast always fall butter down! :Doh:
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:coffee: it's not the cost, it's about making something. You can spend an hour in front of the TV or you can spend an hour in the workshop and improve your maker skills. This is Mad Modders, so converting an empty tin of fish and a plumbing fitting into a useful workshop widget should be seen for what it is. Otherwise we might as well be Mad Couldn't be Arsed to Make.
It's a fair point... and heaven knows I've spent hours in front of the lathe/mill before now making something I could have bought for a fiver... The oil can thing just had me quizzical is all. Andrew mentioning the brush made sense.... I bought a 25l barrel of cutting oil though, so I tend to slop it about a bit. I think more ends up on me than on the workpiece... :lol:
If you run the parting off/crosslide on auto you won't need that third hand... providing you've got power X feed...?
Hmm, I broke about 4 rather expensive parting-off toolholders, and about 20 inserts, using the power feed, so I ran shy of it for quite some time. Still to this day don't know what caused the problem, as I'd cheerfully parted off under power before then and have parted off under power since. Towards the end of the cut, though, I prefer to go by hand as I can feel when it's starting to get a bit shuddery & therefore it's time to back out & finish off with the hand saw...
What I really need to do is get the suds system up and running on my lathe, so I can either flood cool or, as Bogs showed me once, use a spraymist system.
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**** brass makes crap cutting tools.*****
So that's what i am doing wrong :doh: :)
Lyn.
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Hi
Personal preference is to use a pump oil can with a pipe cleaner thing from a craft shop inserted in the spout with little bit sticking out to use as a brush or to drip on to the workpiece.
Eric
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My exotic approach for the small amount I do is using one of my wife's empty hair colour bottles with the tube from a WD40 can inserted snugly through the cap.
I used to fill the bottle with a mixture of 30W oil and Kerosene 25/75 approx. In use, I upend said bottle, gentle or not so gentle squeeze to get the amount I want and start work. I also sometimes just let the heat of my hand expand the air inside the bottle and achieve a drip feed when parting off.
Lately I have begun using, "Angels Breath tapping fluid" because I made some up and A, it works ok and B, it stinks better. :palm:
Still, as has been stated previously, it was the joy of making the Tuna Oil tub that was the aim of Joules in his original post.
Oh, and Angels Breath does work well as a tapping fluid. Strange, as that was its intended use.
To save you asking, Angels Breath as I use it is a mix of,
1 Part Artists Turpentine (Not Mineral),
2 Parts White Spirits and
3 Parts Olive Oil.
John B
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Best tapping fluid if you get get the ingredients is 3 parts trike to one part ATF or similar hydraulic oil.
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I have tried the mist systems before but don't like them on many fronts.
One is my compressors are quite large and if I only need to run one for a mist system it's expensive and wasteful.
As the pressure fluctuates, so does the delivery and it;s a very fine line to get it right, if you can.
lastly working with largish cutters for a long while with mist causes a fig in the air that you are breathing, not nice and certainly not good for you.
I'm working on a positive pumped system using a small geared DC variable speed motor driving a Peristaltic pump. These can give as much as you like or as little and be very consistent, something I have found every coolant system I have come across to lack.
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John, there are some nice little gear pumps used by the model jet engine people. Whilst the pumps are expensive they can meter very accurately and upto high pressures. If only someone could cut small accurate gears. :poke:
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Oh yeah, fog on the Tyne is fine all fine, but not in my bloody workshop. No rush, use a brush.
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I'm OK for pumps, I rescued about 5 out of some metering system a few years ago, just got to link a small dc motor to one, the round2it syndrome
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Hmm, I bought a pile of cheap peristaltic pumps a while back, for a different project that's now on hold... they're only cheapo Chinese $5 ones, but they seem moderately accurate. whether they'd generate any pressure or not... who knows. Interesting thought...
The mister was something Bogs made many moons ago, a simple nozzle, he then blasted air through it & used the differential pressure to pick up tiny amounts of some fancy cutting fluid. I call it a mister... it didn't leave a visible fog, just a few drops "condensed" onto the part being cut. I suspect the air did the majority of the cooling, the fluid just adding a little lubrication.
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A 2- stroke Suzuki 125cc dirt bike oil injection pump driven by a 12vdc auto power blind motor works great on my ORAC lathe retrofit. Post #13 in the link: http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,22258.msg177119.html#msg177119 Easy & cheap!
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John S,
If the trike you are referring to is trichlorethylene, my recollection is that it can be rather nasty to your health. Especially if you smoke whilst using, something about vapours and the heat of the fag.
Banned for lots of uses now.
I used it in combination with a sulphated detergent to concoct very effective grease remover early days in the textile industry. (Back in the days before safety data sheets.) It worked when all else failed to remove grease stains from the fabric. So good that it stripped the skin off one bloke's hands after he ignored my thrice repeated warnings to make sure he wore gloves with the stuff. Got the grease stains out though, and he got a few weeks off on compo.
John B
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I use something like a fogbuster http://www.fogbuster.com/ (I made a few many years back).
These spit rather than mist. I run it from a big fish tank air pump that looks a bit like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/250L-Min-20-Outlet-Fountain-Pond-Aquarium-Air-Pump-Air-Compressor-For-Fish-Koi-/221311689236?hash=item3387346214:g:Xp4AAOxygj5SebxA
. Fairly quiet, no mess, no breathing the stuff. and I have it wired to come on with the mill or lathe spindle (if it's enabled by a switch).
I'll try to find some pics..
PK
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On a roll now :)
Made a second one for other lathe. With what I learned from the first can, I soldered the reinforcing wire to the underside of the lid. Don't really know why I didn't do it the first time round.
Joules,
Nicely made oilcup! I totally agree with making things just for the fun of it. Where's the fun in buying everything you need? The only downside is I can't seem to throw anything away if I made it myself, not even if I have made an improved version....
How much space did you leave between the bottom of the tin and the underside of the tube? To much room and it wil still spil if tipped over and to little and you don't have much oil to dip your brush into.
I took the inspiration of my version from YouTube videos by American makers, where these anti-spil cups are apparently sold:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170315/d59ee1266c36fb3aec5c850c69141ebe.jpg)
And this are the parts :
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170315/90e923dc7e1bba534ced9ebb641da321.jpg)
Almost all parts are PVC pipe fittings, with a little lathe work. Not a as much handcrafted as yours I'm afraid.
The "tube" part is a bit wide, but it works quite well. I am going to try to make the second one with a narrower piece of pipe.
Peter
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Nice Peter, I have no problem with making a few of something as I give them away to friends. Got through a stack of tuna tins now and run out of copper fittings. The first copper fittings I had were of old design, not pre soldered. The newer ones are Yorkshire fittings with the solder ring inside them, not as nice to use. The fitting leaves a gap of about 8-10mm below it and I use the 9mm acid brushes, they pick up enough oil and catching the fitting edge on the way out removes the drips.
p.s
they have just been christened the "Oil be needing you" dispenser :thumbup:
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John S,
If the trike you are referring to is trichlorethylene, my recollection is that it can be rather nasty to your health. Especially if you smoke whilst using, something about vapours and the heat of the fag.
Banned for lots of uses now.
I used it in combination with a sulphated detergent to concoct very effective grease remover early days in the textile industry. (Back in the days before safety data sheets.) It worked when all else failed to remove grease stains from the fabric. So good that it stripped the skin off one bloke's hands after he ignored my thrice repeated warnings to make sure he wore gloves with the stuff. Got the grease stains out though, and he got a few weeks off on compo.
John B
Yes that's the stuff but you only need a couple of drops of it, not bath in it.
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Ah, fond memories of 1980s Liquid Paper, dissolved in 1.1.1-Trichloroethylene. Smelt heavenly... For some reason, Tipp-ex (which also used Trike) smelt terrible.
Then they all went water-based, and took days to set properly.
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1.1.1-Trichloroethylene
Oops, that'd be 1,1,1-Trichloroethane apparently (thanks Wikipedia).
so... which one is "Trike"? Trichloroethylene or 1,1,1-Trichloroethane?
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Ade,
Sorry, but my chem days were way in the past and like all common names I would bet "Trike" would be applied to both. Think of Biro which is applied to virtually any ball point pen or Thermos, Masonite, etc.
Guess that is why the medical profession like to use Latin = less ambiguity or, heaven help us, try reading a legal document. All those 'hereinafter' and other strange words have been tested in court so the legal eagles know the legal meaning. Even if clear as mud to us.
John B
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While I like the Tubal Cain idea, I took a different approach.
When I have another container ready, I will make another one and annodize one yellow and one green for either Rapid Tap or A9.
:beer:
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My version is a simple kiddies non spill paint pot, fitted with a bit of copper tube hot glued in. Nice ideas from other members though, well done to all...
http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=123559
George.