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How do I?? / Re: rounding off pitted 2" bearings
« Last post by paulc1 on Today at 06:52:25 AM »
Pekka, thank you for replying and giving such great info, I have some stuff to think about now, I will watch the video when I get home from work and on a network, I did wonder about leaving them pitted and rusty..I like shiney
Thanks again Pekka  :thumbup:
New from Old / Re: An Encounter with a Surgical Operating Microscope.
« Last post by Pete W. on Today at 06:13:32 AM »
 :offtopic:   :offtopic:   :offtopic: 

Well, folks have been viewing this thread despite my lack of input!  I apologise for my lack of posts, due to two factors:

One:  whenever I logon here I've been absorbed by Andrew's adventure with his CNC lathe, and

Two:  I've been distracted by a problem with the family car!  The flange on the handle of the oil-level dip-stick has embrittled with age and one or more fragments of it have fallen down the dip-stick tube.

I bought a bore-scope, its head is 5.5 mm in diameter and has six LEDs on its face, surrounding the camera.  It plugs into the USB socket of a smart phone or lap-top.  It cost about 6 and came in a smart cardboard box with clear plastic windows - I fail to see how anyone could produce just that box and get it from China to the UK for 6, never mind the contents!!!!!!
It works impressively well out in the open.  The problem was that it's been coiled up in the box for so long that I couldn't get the head to lie axially in the dip-stick tube so,
it didn't yield the pictorial evidence for which I was hoping.   :bang:   :bang:   :bang: 
The next gambit was to buy a 24" long 'grabber' with a flexi stem.  It has four claws that come out of its head when the knob is operated and even has three button cells and an illuminating LED.
However, it's head was too big a diameter to fit down the dip-stick tube!!!   :bang:   :bang:   :bang:

I'm awaiting delivery of a slimmer grabber and I hope to return to the surgical microscope saga when the dip-stick problem is resolved.   
How do I?? / Re: rounding off pitted 2" bearings
« Last post by PekkaNF on Today at 05:52:05 AM »
I have used vinegar for rust removal.

Normal groseery store pickling vinegar (10% Acetic acid) will do very well, needs hour or two in 60C or overnight on 20C or three days in 5C temperatures (It's autumn here and I dunk them outside, or I get hungry).

When you pick them up from the windegar they liike like nothing has happened...but they feel really dirty and slimey, nylon brush will sort that out. You may want to wear whatever kichen/exam gloves. You need to wash neutralize the acid right after, normal soap and wrma water will do.

If you like them grey steel matte coloring, a half an hour into warm phosphorous accid (Tea kettle limescale remover) will do that, and wash/neuralize with mild soap, I use hot water, dry right after and oil. pretty nice.

If you need shine.....then you need to know material.

For historic show piece I prefer rusty. Maybe you have more of them and treat them differenty and then put all your balls into display :lol:

Would give someone somthening to wonder. And you could explain that they all same just treated differently. Old rust, new rust, vinegar pickled, phosphated, lisnished, tumbler finished....

How do I?? / Re: rounding off pitted 2" bearings
« Last post by paulc1 on Today at 04:12:55 AM »
Yes that is probably what they are Mr Awemawson not bearings, although i am not sure what grade metal it is.
if it is round and metal to me its always a bolly :D
How do I?? / Re: rounding off pitted 2" bearings
« Last post by awemawson on Today at 03:54:05 AM »
Are you sure that they were originally actually bearings, and not maybe perhaps from a 'ball mill' used to reduce the ore to a smaller size for further processing ?
How do I?? / rounding off pitted 2" bearings
« Last post by paulc1 on Today at 03:41:51 AM »
So I happened across two 2" diameter ball bearings that came from an old closed down Gold mine and thought initially that I would try and make some blades out of them however after much deliberation I decided that I would buff them up and make them like new and make a presentation case for them, so I tried a flap disc and all manor of elbow grease and even considered trying to make some sort of vibrating abrasive trommel with a bucket or something but I dont know if there is an easier way to do it. so any thoughts would be appreciated.

here they are and as you can see I have tried to buff one up but not very successfully.
Introductions / Re: Hello Mad Modders from Merseyside UK
« Last post by paulc1 on Today at 03:26:56 AM »
Hi Tom, that would probably work much better however it was when I was looking at pizza oven fireclay and refractory bricks that I discovered professionally made knife forges complete with high pressure burner (which I know now is just as important as the lining) that will also get hot enough to forge weld for about 130 sterling, so I think I would now go down this route if I were doing it again because the biggest disappointment was not being able to get the metal hot enough to draw out properly.

Definately a bit more research on my part before starting the project would have helped but I was just too excited to get started when I found an empty calor gas bottle in a skip :)

Software Tools / Re: Not software but is computer related
« Last post by PekkaNF on Today at 03:10:29 AM »
Antother SSD killer was internet browser caching junk constantly. I don't know if browser developpers respect your SSD more than your privacy.
The Design Shop / Re: Mill/drill stand for Warco Major mill
« Last post by PekkaNF on Today at 03:05:39 AM »
Pretty convinced that M10 achor bolts will keep it tied properly on floor.

I was first considering buidling a frame over a toolbox. I could not find a tool cart of proper size (I actually bought one). But with wheels and/or table support frame it would have brought the many mill controls too high and I would have left behind it 100% empty space - they are not that deep and this mill is about one metre deep. The tool cart will be repurposed to it's original function as a tool cart to store some measurement tools and such

Then I checked smallet tool chests and boxes and I felt that I would be designing in a unnecessary complication with a very little gain. All resulted in wasted space and reduced flexibility. Therefore I decided to build funcional frame and later fit in few selves or drawers and maybe mount something on the frame.

This is build way too thick materials (6-8 mm wall thickness) but that is what I had in hand. And It won't break. I was considering a 3 mm sheet metal shell and putting three drawers in. Would have looked more professional, but harder to build anything in after mounting the milling machine.

Software Tools / Re: Not software but is computer related
« Last post by S. Heslop on Today at 01:10:43 AM »
I think Windows handles SSDs better now, but I remember when they were relatively new there were alot of reports of early deaths caused by Windows constantly defragging them when they don't really need to be defragmented. Might be worth looking into though.
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