MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: Joachim Steinke on December 18, 2009, 09:15:10 PM
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Hi to all,
today I want to give you a first survey about my actual project.
I aim to update this report from time to time, but not being a native speaker, writing relatively elaborated posts in English takes a lot more time for me than the activities in my German forums. And for the rest, a little time has to be left for machining all that things….ha ha ha…..
So I hope you understand if continuance might come sparsely
Building a miniature 4 stroke engine was on top of my to do list for a long time and in the last weeks I finitely designed the plans for a little 4.1 ccm motor. For me such a project has to have always a little thrill in it….ha ha ha…. so, to make things more complicated I choose a special design of charge changing. The engine will operate with a sleeve valve system, I think most people here would know this type of timing from the famous Bristol Airplanes build around the time of WW II.
This type of engines had been already build in perfect miniatures from such experts as for example Brian Perkins with his 9 cylinder Aquillia and Tom Pasco with a 3 cylinder radial of own design. That’s a class of craftsmanship I am far away from, so I keep it simple start my first engine with a single cylinder type following my own design and my limited abilities.
The basics are:
stroke 16mm, bore 18mm, capacity 4.1ccm, compression ratio 6:1, spark plug ignition via Hall Sensor module, lubrication by gear oil pump, air cooling of cylinder and head.
Over all sizes engine block: width 39mm, length 54mm and height 90mm.
And here are some of the now completed drawings:
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_55.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_54.JPG)
This is a section from the right side
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_56.JPG)
And some details of the inner structure
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_57.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_59.JPG)
The oil pump
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_60.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_61.JPG)
And the oil distribution system
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_62.JPG)
The material composition of the stroke garniture is: piston, head, outer cylinder and piston rings are made from spheroidal graphite cast iron (GGG60) and the moving sleeve from high strength free cutting steel (ETG100), the crank- and camshaft are also machined from this steel.
The engine block, the connecting rod and most of the other parts will be made from aluminium 7075 and the bush bearings will be made of bronze.
End of Part one
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Part Two
The sleeve valve or otherwise said the cylinder sleeve is driven by a little ball of hardened steel sliding in a hardened cylinder which is mounted in the camshaft gear wheel.
Here is a more detailed graphic of the port function:
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_05.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_06.JPG)
For a convenient check of the pre calculated in- and outlet port timing, which follows an elliptical curve on the circumference of the cylinder, I made an CAD animation of the involved component, you might take a look at a little sample video here, things become a lot more obvious then:
http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_PORTS_02.wmv
I just began the machining, so my progress is not that far. To get “warm” with the project I started with the carburettor.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_33.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_27.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_28.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_29.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_19.JPG)
End of part two
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Part three
In between I completed the gear wheels, they are made of steel with modul 0.5 dimensions.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_42.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_44.JPG)
And as I will solder them on there shafts it’s better to have a running test before getting an imprecise disaster when it’s too late, but all seems good so far. This sort of testing on the milling machine is a good method for measuring the very true distance of the axle-base too, you don’t have to rely on pure calculations and can judge the last hundreds of a millimetre from the running sound.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_43.JPG)
The next part I wanted to clarify was if my design of the ignition system will work proper enough, for that circumstance would determine the further design of the engines blocks front section.
The dimensions in front of the camshaft are really small and I wanted to place the magnet for the Hall Sensor in the front cover of the camshaft bearing. So the diameter of the revolving disk with the 2x4mm neodym magnet is only 9.5mm.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_DAFO_70.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_DAFO_71.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_DAFO_72.JPG)
An easy way to find out if the sensor will work through a 0.5mm wall of aluminium and if the triggering will do a precision angle repetition on such a small revolver is to ( I think you guess it…) make the next little running test…….ha ha ha….
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_DAFO_75.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_DAFO_76.JPG)
But at last my doubts where unnecessary, the trigger works well with an 1mm aluminium sheet holding in the gap between sensor and magnet, the overall distance between the parts can have an amount of more than 3.5mm before the trigger “looses contact”. And the small diameter has no bad influence on the precision of the trigger point, I tested this on the lathe with a mark on the lathe chuck, very reliable results.
So work can proceed, let’s see how it will go…..
Good night from Achim
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Excellent work on your engine so far. I'm glad to hear your findings with the Hall sensor. I'm going to be using one in my current project and I was trying to keep my spacing down to within .035, .89mm. Now I won't have to be so critical with my dimensions.
George
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Achim
Wow is about all that I can say for starters. I definitely am going to be watching for every new installment as you have time to post them. The drawings that you have made are great. It looks like you have a good start on it with the Carb and the gears already done. :ddb: :ddb:
Don't worry about your English, there is nothing wrong with it. I'm just glad that I don't have to reply in German. :lol: :lol:
Cheers :beer:
Don
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Incredible work Achim. As I was reading through I thought I was going to have a lot of questions but you answered them all and the video answered the rest! It looks very complicated and I have never seen valving like that before. It's even got an oil pump which I recognised before I got down to that bit.
This is going to be some project.
Thanks for showing it,
Nick
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Hello to all you out there in this Christmas Night.
Monday I started with the real work on the crankcase and want to show you some pictures.
After milling the blocks to size from 7057 alloy stock I bored and reamed the pilot holes for the cam- and crankshaft bearings on the mill and taped the threads for jointing the two halves. Two of the threads contain a little aligning bush which will fix the parts precise for all further operations and naturally for the final assembly.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_81.JPG)
The concept is going from the inner parts to the outside geometry of the case, so I let an allowance of 0.25mm on each face of the blocks. The parts will not milled to final size before I have finished all the boring and facing jobs on the lathe, so the gripping marks of the lathe chuck don’t bother me.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_82.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_83.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_84.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_85.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_86.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_87.JPG)
After some hours of centering, boring and milling I got an acceptable, intermediate result, all parts are fitting very well.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_88.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_89.JPG)
So I continued with things like boring the oil system, taping a lot of left over M2 and M2.5 threads and all the rest of detailing the case.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_91.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_92.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_93.JPG)
Finally, after removing all allowance of the case sides and finishing the hole parts with water-resistant abrasive paper, steel wool and fine grinding pads the crank case is already completed.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_94.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_95.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_101.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_100.JPG)
Now I can continue with the crank- and camshaft, followed by the cylinder garniture and the oil pump. But things can go a lot more relaxed now, for the engine case is the most time consuming single component, one mistake here and the need of machining a complete new case would be the bitter consequence.
Good night from Achim
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Good grief, that's some very nice work you're doing there :bow:
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Thank you Achim for showing us your beautiful work and beautiful pictures too! :thumbup:
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Great Build Achim. :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Enjoying your posts very much
Cheers
:beer:
Stew
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WOW!
thats a fantastic bit of work :bow: :bow:
is that engine design also known as an "aspen" engine?? some years ago i was involved with a project involving an egine out of a bus, i think it was a six cylinder sleave valve, called an ASPEN engine??
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Achim,
Wonderful work...... Wonderful photography! :bow: :bow:
David D
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That is some fantastic work there :clap: :clap: :clap: and a good finish right off the tool too :thumbup:
Tim
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Achim.
1. HOLLY SMOKE
2. :jaw: :jaw:
3. :bugeye:
4. Have a Merry Christmas
Best regards.
Crankshafter.
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Yes, amazing stuff! Loving this one!
Nick
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Achim, what is the model of the Hall sensor you are using? As the one that is suggested, for example on 5bears circuit, has became obsolete, at least here in Finland. Quite a little information is available of equivalent ones.
By the way, you have made really neat looking parts this far :thumbup:.
But when you get to run that engine, that sure is going to be a thrill ::).
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Hallo,
first of all I want to thank you for all the very kind replies.
Today I planed to building the oil pump, but at first some pictures of the housing cover which will fix the crankshafts front bearing.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_102.JPG)
I like, if possible, to machine most of the components which get a mixture of turning and dividing operations directly on the bar and leave it in the collet chuck switching this from the lathe to the mill and backwards. That saves a lot of measuring and adjusting and offers me a much higher precision than shifting the things permanently from one chuck to another.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_103.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_104.JPG)
And then came the time for the oil pump. This little brass gears are modul 0.5 type with 12 teeth and had to get 2.985mm borings to press the 3.000mm axles (hardened dowel pins) in.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_105.JPG)
The assembly was done on the late, making the pressure with the tailstock spindle.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_106.JPG)
After the press fitting the hardened axels were brought to precise length using a little cut off wheel and a grinding disk on the frontal operation to do the last finish.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_107.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_108.JPG)
Changing the tool post grinder to the front side I grinded the flat area for the fixing screw of the crank arm which is later driven by the crankshaft.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_109.JPG)
Next came the main housing of the pump.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_110.JPG)
I had prepared four little bronze bearing bushes and glued them with Loctite in there bearing seats which I had drilled on the mill in the meantime.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_111.JPG)
After the facing operations on the glued in bushings I milled the two little anti cavitation drains with a 1mm cutter.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_112.JPG)
Next steps where the borings for the gear itself, going 0.1mm deeper than the gear height of 4mm. The aimed axel clearance of 0.03mm of the gears to the housing faces will be done later by fine facing the case surface on the lathe.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_113.JPG)
As all fits very well I could turn the main body to the precise diameter for the crankcase boring and cut the grooves for the oil routes and the 1mm viton seals.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_114.JPG)
And this will become the oil intake line.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_116.JPG)
And nearly the last thing to do is to part off the pump case from the bar.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_115.JPG)
So here the finished components
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_117.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_118.JPG)
and how they are located in the engine.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_119.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_120.JPG)
And this is how the assembled front bearing cover looks like.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_121.JPG)
Now I am very curios if the pump will do its purpose well….okay….we will see…..
Good night from Germany,
Achim
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Now this is real model engineering, I'm just playing!
Great Stuff Achim.
Nick
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Your work never ceases to amaze me :bow:
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Nice work Achim. That minuature pump almost looks like the oil pump used on the old VW air cooled engines.
Bernd
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Hallo,
@Sorveltaja, the Hall Sensor I use is the very common unipolar H501, but I think for example the Infineon Types TLE 4945 L should work here as well. Both sensors are in Germany good available at shops like CONRAD Electronics or REICHELT etc. But I don’t know if the mentioned distributors will be much help for your purchasing problems in Finland?
Today I was I little impatient and wanted to find out if the oil pump will do its job right. So I made a test, turned a small coupling axle, put the bearings in the block and filled the engine with oil.
Then I mounted the whole thing on my tool grinder where I can go up to more than 10 thousand rpm, the available speed on the lathe would be not high enough for getting informative results.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_122.JPG)
I would say it’s working very well. A good stream of oil was already delivered at some hundred rpm, over thousand the whole thing becomes real messy for the engine is already open at the top.
After closing the cylinder boring provisorily I could run the pump with more than 12 thousand for a longer period, no problems with vibrations, no ugly sounds and no increasing of temperature occurred.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_123.JPG)
So I am real happy about the first real functional, living component of this little project.
Good night from Achim
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I am in awe..... :bow:
Lost for words! :scratch:
Some wonderful work there Achim. :clap:
David D
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You are not the only one David .... That's a fantastic engine your are designing and building there
And I can't stop looking at your tool grinder, did you ever make any plans available for it?
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Hallo Darren,
sorry, but detail drawings of my tool grinder are not available. I’m used to build the components directly from my 3D CAD model, so I normally don’t create special blue prints or workshop drawings.
But all the operating principles and fundamental details of the Mini Bonelle Tool Grinder are fully documented on my web site http://www.metallmodellbau.de/. So it should be no big deal to customize things to your own purpose.
Good by from Achim
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Hallo,
at first a little example of using the lathe as a substitute for a mill combined with a turntable.
Originally I wanted to use a simple paper sealing between the flange of the oil pump and the crank case rear. As there was still enough room between the fasting screws and the pump cylinder for a 1mm o-ring seal I choose this option by now.
But my smallest lathe cutting tool for planar use has 1.5mm width and I don’t wanted to grind a new one. So I took my small tool post grinding spindle and a little 1mm milling cutter.
Letting the lathe spindle rotate with very slow speed (ca. 50rpm) and running the cutter with 10tousand I get precise results with an excellent finish. This alternative method sometimes works much faster for me than extra putting my turn table on the mill for only one single duty.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_124.JPG)
Then today I spend some time on machining the con rod.
First I needed a fixture to hold the little rod on the turntable without using inconvenient and much too large clamps. In addition a fixture like this guaranties an always precise centring of the piece, you can turn it around without loosing any measure reference and have free access and a good sight on the things you do.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_125.JPG)
To adapt the con rod blanks to the fixture I made two precise brass bushings, one for the upper 4mm bore and the other one for the larger 5mm crank pin bearing. Below the centring bores I have two M3 threads, so the con rod can be easy turned over and fixed very convenient.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_127.JPG)
After centring the turntable to the mill axis and aligning the con rod fixture to the y-axis of the mill table (not before setting the turntable index to zero deg) things could get started.
The two blanks (one kept in reserve) are made from high strength alloy and have already got the bronze bearings assembled by press fit and are already milled to the final thickness of 6mm.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_128.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_129.JPG)
Wanting a nice radius transition going from the rod surface to the circumference of the two outer cylinders I was in need of a little ball cutter. As I don’t have a “serious” one for this job in stock (only 1mm radius is allowed here) I took some of the simple tools from the Proxxon shop and made a brass reduction insert from 2.35 to 6mm which is the dimension of my smallest milling collet.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_130.JPG)
Running this cutter with 5000 rpm worked very well and it made a good surface too.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_131.JPG)
And after milling the h-shape in both sides of the main body I finally got the con rod finished.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_132.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_133.JPG)
Good night from Achim
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excellent :clap:
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Great work. Thanks for sharing.
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Very nice work there :thumbup: :thumbup:
Tim
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I'm pretty gobsmacked - the finish on those must be impeccable if the camera is not picking up machining marks that close up. :jaw:
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Hallo out there,
now it was time for building the “cam”- and crankshaft. Actually this engine has no real camshaft in a classic way, so the thing which drives the sleeve is more a control shaft….
Both shafts are made from ETG100, a special steel with high mechanical properties combined with extraordinary good machinability. I like this stuff, the tensile strength is about 960 to 1100 N/mm2, but you can cut it like ordinary free cutting steel, it’s the perfect material for small and lightweight lathes and mills.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_134.JPG)
As my crank disk is relative thick (6.5mm) I could make a single, well fitted in crank pin (5mm diameter) which is glued into the disk with Loctite later. So I avoided the circuitous off-center operation and the extra fixture for the lathe.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_135.JPG)
Here we have all the related components before the assembling.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_136.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_137.JPG)
And here are all the bearings and gears already in place. The two gears are also glued with Loctite high strength on there precisely fitted shaft seats. I don’t have enough space for removable joints like a key combined with a shaft nut, but Loctite will do the job well.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_138.JPG)
And at last the whole assembly with the crankcase, the gears are smooth running and all is fitting well.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_139.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_140.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_141.JPG)
And today I started with the main cylinder. This component is made from spheroidal cast iron. Our German notation for this iron is GGG60, I don’t know if the name is common in the English language area too?
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_142.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_143.JPG)
Grooving the cooling fins…..
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_144.JPG)
and a little finishing work.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_145.JPG)
And now came the first fine machining of the cylinder bore with 400er grinding paste and an expanding lapping mandrel.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_146.JPG)
This is only a pre honing from the before turned 19.97mm up to now 19.99mm diameter, the final fitting with the sleeve (projected is 20.00mm) will be done after milling the cylinder ports and the frontal cut out for the sleeve drive.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_147.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_148.JPG)
Step by step the little engine looks more and more like a real motor….ha ha ha….
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_149.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_150.JPG)
Good night from Achim
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Stunning work Achim
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Very well shown and described, I,m really enjoying this build.
Have fun
Stew
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Achim......
That is beautiful........ :bow:
David D
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:jaw: :jaw:
Stunning
:jaw: :jaw:
Tim
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WOW!
Very meticulous attention to detail.
I'm in awe.
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:jaw:
:bow:
Just can't believe how nice that is!
Nick
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Achim, I'm new to the forum and while totally enthralled by all the projects I've seen on it, yours is top notch, the machine work impeccable, the finish beautiful, and the detailed plans are something I'm not at all accustomed to. I am going to start posting the work I'm doing on a radial engine I started working on about a year ago, but haven't figured out how to do all the posting and such on the forum, but I'm building from plans purchased, while you're building from your own plans, your expertise is showing through. I look forward to seeing it run, and hearing the sound of it.
mad jack
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Oh My! How did I miss this??
:bow: :bow: :bow:
Wow... thats some AMAZING work.
Eric
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Hallo,
first of all many thanks again for your lively interest and the versatile and very nice replies.
In the mean time I could work a little further on the sleeve and cylinder garniture. As the ball mounting needs a little backing material to enhance the rigidity at the circumference I had turned a shoulder on the end of the sleeve which now has to be milled away, sparing only a small piece for the balls base and the coming soldering. This recess is also reducing the sleeves diameter from 20.00 to 19.80mm going up to additional 2mm above the ball mounting base, so this whole area does not take part on the sleeve to cylinder fitting and does not jam the outer lapping operations too.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_151.JPG)
Then came the similar pre lapping work like I did on the cylinder bore, I went to 0.005mm below the end measure so I don’t have to do too much grinding after milling the ports out.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_152.JPG)
For the outer diameter I had made a little lapping ring from aluminium and I’m holding the sleeve on a special fixture which will be needed for milling the ports anyway.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_153.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_154.JPG)
My port layout is a compromise of the small engine scale, my machining abilities without using CNC and a relative short sleeve stroke, depending on the desired shortened design of the whole cylinder elevation and the avoidance of too much expansion of the gear housing width.
Also I had to place the sleeve ports sufficient enough above the cylinder heads compression ring, otherwise I would get problems with the sealing during the combustion cycle, what in fact is limiting the port height too.
So I’m up to rectangular ports now without the tricky elliptical arches Bristol did on there engines. Free formed arches are a little bit difficult on a non CNC mill and filing them by hand was no real option for me.
But in comparison to the usual poppet valves my free port sections are not so bad. Each port makes 8sqmm free width at maximum overlapping position, that means 24sqmm for the inlet and 16sqmm for the exhaust. Calculating a high performance cylinder head (for the same cylinder bore) with two poppet valves at 30deg inclination to both sides of the spark plug the free valve sections will be approximately 20sqmm for each valve. Even a spherical head with four poppet valves would produce no more then 27sqmm per side and it would be a very tricky task to get four dimensional optimized and functional valves into a 18mm diameter head.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_170.JPG)
But cutting a long story short, now it was time for the fiddly milling operation, the first one was the sleeve…..
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_155.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_156.JPG)
……and at last the cylinder.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_157.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_158.JPG)
And here we see the collection of the fixtures and lapping mandrels I have used.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_159.JPG)
This is the intermediate result of the port milling job.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_160.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_161.JPG)
Next thing to do was hard soldering the little (4.8mm) connecting ball to the sleeves base.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_163.JPG)
To enhance the joint I made a 2mm pin from ETG which is well fitted to both holes. Things went very well, the silver solder is filling up the gap sufficiently and was even travelling along the pin to the countersink at the inner side.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_164.JPG)
After the final lapping and fitting operations of sleeve and cylinder I could assemble the moving components for the first time.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_165.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_166.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_167.JPG)
Port locations and timing are fully according to my calculations and the sleeve motion is very smooth an easy going. I made a running test on my high speed spindle and had no problems to go up to more than 8thousand rpm over a longer period. So the present results are auspicious for the further progress of this little project.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_168.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_169.JPG)
Good night from Achim
-
Stunning work again Achim, and wonderfully shown:- :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
I'm beginning to understand how this engine will work.
Have fun
Stew
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Yes, very nice Achim. What a complex engine, it will surely be quite unique.
Nick
-
You are a master Achim :bow: :bow:
Gerhard
-
Achim.
Thank you for the pictures and your whrite-up, amazing proj :jaw:ect.
You are a master-wizzard :bow: :bow: :beer:
Crankshafter
-
Achim
It certainly is a pleasure to watch this engine come to life from pieces of raw metal. Your design, machining and photography skills are amazing and a real joy to watch. I look forward to watching the balance of the engine take shape. :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
Cheers :beer:
Don
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Hi Achim, There is nothing in the world quite like the feel of a well lapped sleeve inside the part it was lapped to fit, and if there are several parts, all lapped together, the feel of all of them, in concert, is like knowing how it will run and sound before you get there.
Your project is looking great, and the unique aspect of the sleeve valve design is not to be overlooked either, it is quite an achievement. Can't wait to hear it run, great progress, despite all the jigs, fixtures and tooling having to be made.
mad jack
-
Good morning,
slowly the rest of the cylinder parts are growing.
Beginning with the head I could finally use this little self made tap for the first time. I got the smallest Rimfire spark plug with a NS 10-40 thread and these special and unusual taps are hard to get in Germany. So I turned and milled one from ETG and then hardened, tempered and grinded it at last. It does the job very well.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_171.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_172.JPG)
The following components are the last one to make from spherical cast iron. First I made the piston ring blanks which are 1mm high and 0.75mm width.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_173.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_174.JPG)
After parting them off they where put aside and will be divided, expanded and finally tempered in the next days. And the remaining piece of the cast iron blank was used to manufacture the piston.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_175.JPG)
As the engine has ports like a 2-cycle motor I have to fix the piston rings, so they can not come in conflict with the windows. For the installation of the little fixing pins I had to mill 1mm holes near the ring shoulder.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_176.JPG)
The lapping of the piston and the final fitting to the sleeve was made directly on the material blank, so I did not need an extra fixture for this job. After that the piston could be parted off.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_177.JPG)
To prevent the piston pin from sliding sideways I cut a little v-grove at each inside of the bore. The 4mm pin will be held by small snap rings made from 0.5mm wire.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_178.JPG)
And at last most of the vitally components are ready now.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_179.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_180.JPG)
Now the whole apparatus becomes more and more affinity with a real motor.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_182.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_183.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_184.JPG)
I could say that the lapping and fitting work was a real success. All components are sliding easy and free, a longer lasting running test with more than 8tousand rpm on my high speed spindle was no problem at all.
Even without the piston rings assembled the engine has a strong compression, I’m not able to turn it over the TDC at compression cycle on the naked 6mm crankshaft. For easier testing and handling I made the little brass cylinder, the real flywheel has to be build in the next days.
Good night and a nice weekend from Achim
-
Wow, this really is a work of art and beginning to take shape nicely! A homemade tap too - something I've not seen before.
Nick :bow:
-
Hi,
in the mean time I got through with the piston rings.
As you might remember I had turned and parted them already, now they must be divided, widened and tempered to get the right working tension.
As the grooves in piston and head are 1.05mm wide and the parted rings are exactly 1.00mm thick, I don’t have to grind there flat face for a final fitting, 0.05mm clearance will be just right for this dimension. So I just removed the tiny burrs left from the parting operation on a very fine grinding stone. With a round 1mm needle file I cut the slot for the fixing pins and then the rings where divided with a small and sharp chisel on a flat steel plate.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_187.JPG)
Being too lazy to make a special fixture for the widening operation I put the rings (I finish only 2 of the 8 prefabricated in the moment) on a little steel plate, brought the 3mm distance pieces in the gap and set a little clamp on the whole assembly. For the heating I like to take my small muffle furnace, unfortunately it has no temperature control and for stress relieve the temperature should better not go further than 600, max. 650deg Celsius.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_188.JPG)
For that reason I put the whole fixture in a small steel ash tray and filled it with dry sand.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_189.JPG)
The sand allows me to control the temperature quite easy. After the first heating up time I took the tray out about every 5 minutes and measured the temperature inside the sand, reaching approximately 600deg Celsius the whole thing was done and I let cool it down slowly. As the sand buffers the heat very well the rings get the additional needed stress relieve time outside the furnace, but without the possibility of overheating.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_190.JPG)
This are the two now finished rings, the rest will be kept for “any case of emergency” to come….ha ha ha….
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_191.JPG)
The engine is running fine with both rings assembled and the compression is real strong now.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_192.JPG)
I have made two videos of the semi open engine so you can have a look at the moving parts and the rotating ports. But the quality is not that good, I don’t have a high resolution video camera at the moment and had to take them with my Canon IXUS instead.
http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/JST_SLVE_RT_01.mpg
http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/JST_SLVE_RT_02.mpg
Good night from Achim
-
Great piston valve action Achim
:headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:
Thanks for showing
Stew
-
Now..... That`s mesmerising! :clap:
David D
-
Wow, never seen anything like it! This is like model engine pornography :lol:
Shame you won't see all that motion when it's built together!
-
this thread just keeps on getting better :thumbup:
fantastic workmanship
-
Hallo,
things are proceeding in the last days and I managed to build the still missing parts like the flywheel, the ignition module and the intake and exhaust collar.
The 50mm flywheel is made of brass
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_193.JPG)
and is mounted on the crankshaft using a ring cone which is pressing on a collet like part of the wheel. This guaranties an always good concentricity and a comfortable assembling and disassembling during the whole testing time to come.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_194.JPG)
Next came the ignition parts. I build the mounting plate for the hall sensor from Corian, a synthetic material made of Aluminiumhydroxid and PMMA. It has good machining and isolation properties and is heat resistant up to nearly 200deg Celsius.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_196.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_201.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_202.JPG)
This will become the housing of the sensor which is the oil sealing front cover of the crankshaft bearing too.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_197.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_198.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_199.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_200.JPG)
And all parts together. I intended to use the 2 pin plug on the photo for connecting the motor parts with the ignition circuit, but finally I had to use a 3 pin connector as it shows up later.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_203.JPG)
Connecting the sensor with only two wires (Vcc+ and signal), getting ground from the motor itself, was no success.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_205.JPG)
I lost two sensors by I would guess high voltage sparkover before I realized that a complete three wire connection is necessary here. So I had to make a new sensor plate (no chance to get things out of the two component glue) and modified the aluminium housing for the fitting of a 3 pin M8 sensor connector.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_208.JPG)
This M8 connector is a bit heavy for this task, but I had to take things from stock and wanted to proceed. I will purchase an angulated version of the plug later so the cable is getting closer to the motor side face. But now the sensor problems vanished completely.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_207.JPG)
The last major part to do is the intake and exhaust collar.
Staring basis is a ring of 7075 aluminium
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_210.JPG)
which has to travel over to the turning table on the mill
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_211.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_212.JPG)
and will take more and more the shape of the desired collar.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_213.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_214.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_215.JPG)
After finishing the mill work the collar could be parted with a fine saw.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_216.JPG)
At last the gas ways had to be cut out
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_217.JPG)
and the collar and the intake pipe is ready to use
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_220.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_218.JPG)
and can be assembled to the engine.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_219.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_221.JPG)
Then today was the “great moment” for the very first run on the improvised wooden stand.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_223.JPG)
I managed to get a few ignitions and crankshaft turns by actuating the flywheel only by hand. But not being a sophisticated model engine man (my experience with radio controlled models date back 40 years ago when I was a young boy) I got serious problems with the carburetor adjustment, so turning the flywheel only by hand was no good option.
I found a well fitting rubber door stopper and made a coupling to my cordless screwdriver. But as the rubber coupling would prevent the motor from rotating on his own after the moment of ignition (one could not loose the cone fast enough in the right moment) I had to modify the adapter a little bit. I installed a one way overrunning clutch (a special needle bearing) and two ball races between the outer part and the mounting shaft. Now the motor can overhaul the starter if necessary without any problem.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_224.JPG)
Okay, then it was time for the serious part…….ha ha ha…..but have a look on your own…..
http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_RUNNING_01.mpg
I made two sessions of about 10 minutes each. The carburetor settings are not perfect yet and I gave the motor a rich mixture for the running in time also. So the revolution speed is limited at the moment as you can see and hear on the video. But all is running well and I have no problems with too much heat in the critical area of the cylinder, sleeve and piston fit.
But there is enough work left with optimizing the oil pressure system, building a nice motor stand, a housing for the ignition circuit and batteries, a suitable tank and I guess a real motor starter too…..so boredom has no chance……ha ha ha……
Good by from Achim
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Achim, grats for getting the engine to run :beer:.
Your machining work has been first class, and addition to that, you got working engine :thumbup:.
-
Achim.
Congrats. You are a real wizzard/ artist. I really admire your work. thanks for showing us this masterpice of an engine and a great wright-up. :beer: :beer: :beer: :clap: :clap:
Crankshafter.
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Achim,
I'm very impressed with your work and photography. :thumbup:
The engine sounds nice running. It'll be interesting to hear it when it's run in a bit and the carb is set right. :thumbup:
It's definatly Miller time after that. :beer:
Bernd
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Well done Achim. Congratulations on a very well documented build and a successful running engine.
I learned some new things as well. Thanks.
Ron
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WOW...great job and fast build. I feel a POM nomination coming....
Are you selling your plans?
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Achim
You certainly have one fine looking and running engine there. The documentation and pictures are great. I am glad that you took us all into your shop and let us look over your shoulder while you were building it. You should be very proud of this engine. I look forward to watching more as you get everything finished up and fine tuned. :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
Cheers :beer: :beer:
Don
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Congratulations on a great running engine and a wonderful thread, and a great bit of machining, thanks for sharing.
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Have fun
Stew
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Achim,
You can do magic! :bow: :bow:
Thank you for showing us how..... :thumbup:
David D
-
Wow!
What a great build. You got some serious talent. :bow:
Thanks for such a great thread!
Eric
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Wow, amazing build and fantastic result. What a good runner. Easy to forget what's going on inside there too so for people just seeing this end result, please go back and read the build log, or at least look at the pictures - you might be surprised how it works!
Nick
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Amazing build, great pictures and really detailed! Thank you..
Chris
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Hi,
many thanks for your kind appreciation and warm replies. This is also a very nice welcome to a brand-new member like me.
Unfortunately there was no real progress in building the next surrounding components this week. Instead of that I got serious trouble with my ignition module.
From the beginning I was at war with this little Hall Sensors, two of them “died” after short time, the third worked for several days and many longer testing runs quite well. So I thought the problems where solved, but I was wrong.
Last weekend the last of my reserve sensors finally gave up too and I had to order some knew one as the local dealers here don’t sell them. But with the new sensors things didn’t get better, after killing three of them in short time I stopped all attempts as I could not come to any conclusion concerning the reasons for this malfunction.
After that I spend several hours on the design of a conventional ignition switch, finally realising that a nice and proper solution is really hard to integrate in the very small frontal bearing section of my camshaft housing. Then, short before frustration took over, I had the idea of making a test run with a good old fashioned reed switch. The normal medium sized types require a much too strong magnet which I can’t fit in the small rotor. But I managed to find the real micro sized types at my local distributor, they are 9mm long and 1.8mm thick.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_225.JPG)
The small types are able to work with a 2x4mm Neodyme magnet very well, even over a distance of 3 ore 4mm. And if they are positioned in the right distance and inclination to the plane of magnet rotation you get a well defined switching point.
After realising that this could work for the ignition timing I glued the reed contact in my old Hall Sensor housing, trying to keep the suitably position I just had found out.
And things are going fine, integrated in my motor I got a precise and repeatable acting-point. The pulse frequency should by no problem too, according to the data sheet the maximum pulse rate is up to 700Hz which means 42thousand rpm on the camshaft…..the little engine will explode before getting near this point anyway…..ha ha ha…..
Okay, that’s more a theory than real praxis so far……a nice running test has to follow …..
I can say it works real good, the engine is running fine and without any difference to the Hall Sensor triggering I had used before. And as the switch is solid state now I guess the problems with EMP should be gone.
Here is an additional video, showing some “only by hand on the flywheel” starting sequences I taped today. As you can see an electro starter is not a must have…..ha ha ha….(but could be a nice add on)…..
http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_RUNNING_02.mpg
And here at last the two parts which I managed to modify over the week
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_228.JPG)
I installed a small ventilation system on the left engine side and made a choke valve to reduce the oil volume which is flowing to the circumference of the sleeve valve. This will, in collaboration with the small outlet boring short above the oil pump, create a bypass like system so the not needed fluid can flow back directly into the oil sump.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_226.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_227.JPG)
Kind regards to all of you and good night from Germany
-
Congratulations on an excellent project Achim.. :bow:
:beer: ...from New Zealand.
-
Achim, that reed switch is something, that I've also considered for my test engine, but not being sure would it last :scratch:.
It sure is tempting option, as they are more commonly available than certain hall-switches.
Interesting to see, how it works with your engine :thumbup:.
-
Achim, congratulations on an excellent build of a rather difficult design that has many potential pitfalls. With regard to your experience with hall effect sensors, they are extremely sensitive to impedance, and require rather exact current limiting circuits which means you have to either build your own transistor circuit for power through the coil, or have the sensor's matched to an ignition circuit with the parameters well matched. I am still up in the air as to what ignition I will be using on my radial engine build, I have an option of using an auto ignition unit from a Mallory "unilite" distributer, which will demand 12 volts, a ballast resistor to control the current, and making a disc or sleeve with cutouts, to activate the LED sensor, and either build and advance unit, or operate it entirely manually for advance. I am also considering building a magneto for the engine, but I'm not sure I can get the power necessary out of such a small unit. I also have an ignition kit I built, which is designed to convert points to electronic, and with it, one can use micro switches, as the trigger current is too small to burn out the contacts quickly, as they do if used directly. If you know the actual voltage delivered to the hall effect switch, you can put in series, a resistor that will reduce the current substantially, but test to ensure you don't lose reliability of the sensor. The type of transistor trigger circuit that drives the coil has a great effect on the load on the sensor, and is drawing too much current through something that is just supposed to be a trigger, and not a component of any substantial power. I am impressed with your idea of the reed switch, and that it works reliably may mean that is what you stay with, but if you wish to pursue the hall effect ignition, I'd be happy to assist you in figuring out circuitry, I just have to pull it out of some fifteen years of ignoring electronics, and get back to my books. I'm having to do this anyway for my own engine build, and when I get to it, I will be posting it, along with the rest as I go. If you want to do something with it in the mean time, I will jump ahead, and take a good look at the electronics, as I have to eventually in any case. Regardless of all that, you have done an excellent job on a difficult build, and done so very impressively. Md Jack :thumbup:
-
Jack, many thanks for your offer of help and advice.
By the way, the reed switch was not a longer lasting solution too. After several good running periods I got new problems with temporarily contact bonding. Maybe there are several reasons for this failure, still too excessive current on the micro contacts of this very small reed type, too little magnetic field intensity and perhaps too excessive vibrations under this circumstances.
So I turned back to the hall problems, spend some time on understanding the working principals of the transistor circuit and was also looking for help in my German CNC Forum too. It soon becomes obvious, that the ignition module (I took from a website) is a very primitive layout. The creator hadn’t turned any attention on keeping away high-voltage influences from all the sensitive parts. I would need some components like a Zener diode in the main transistor power line and maybe a fast recovery diode in the hall sensor supply line too. An additional alternative could be to separate the hall sensor completely from the ignition coil area and transmit the trigger signal via an opto-coupling device. Such a fully galvanic separation is common in professional vehicle ignition modules.
Anyway, all the nice things I would need to enhance my ignition module where naturally not available at my local store. So I had to make an order first and it would take same days until I can progress with the hall unit complex.
In the mean time I don’t wanted to trust in further electronic experiments only…ha ha ha…..
So I put some pieces of Dural on my machinery…..
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_251.JPG)
and after a couple of horizontal……
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_252.JPG)
and vertical milling actions…….
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_253.JPG)
and some small components made from bronze….
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_254.JPG)
and Polyamid…..
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_255.JPG)
…….finally I managed to get a good old fashioned ignition switch.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_256.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_257.JPG)
For sealing the housing cut-out of the little ignition camshaft from any oil leakage I arranged an o-ring gasket between the shaft and the base plate tunnel, I don’t have enough space for a normal rotary shaft seal here.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_258.JPG)
The separate ignition switch plate has a cylinder clamp mounting…..
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_259.JPG)
and can be rotated around the base plate about +/- 20deg.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_260.JPG)
Now it’s quite comfortable to change and adjust the ignition timing.
As I will use the existing transistor device for driving the ignition coil, the bronze contacts don’t have much current to handle and a smoothing capacitor is not necessary too.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_261.JPG)
This pure mechanical system is working fine, here comes a new testing video I made this afternoon.
Sorry, some unsteady camera movements here, but I used a new digi cam and have to look for some new cutting software now as my old system don’t like the new MPG format very much. So the complete video sequence is taken directly from the camera and totally uncut.
http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_RUNNING_SWI_01.mpg
Good night from Achim
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Achim, nice work on the new breaker points :thumbup:.
-
Only one way to describe this "simply assume" :thumbup:
Having a bit of trouble with the video. Won't play but about one second of the vid. :scratch:
Bernd
Just updated my media player. Vid works fine now. :thumbup:
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Achim,
That final photo......... Absolutely gorgeous! :bow: :bow:
David D
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Stunning work on that set of points, fantastic! :thumbup: :bow:
-
Very very nice work. I wish I would be that skilled some day! :bow:
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Wow! I am assuming that the ability to rotate the points is like advancing and retarding the timing. Super job. Looking forward to your next project.
-
Achim, I only just got to hear your engine run as I just got high speed internet on my computer today, and she sounds absolutely gorgeous! Congratulations, any man who can fail four five, or more times, and then just pick up some scrap, make some new parts, and put it back together again with a shrug of the shoulders and joy in his heart when it runs knows who and what he is, and makes his own way through this world. You are a man of talent and perspective, you've done as fine a job as I've seen in this. Top of the line all the way. Mad Jack :beer:
-
:jaw:
Eric
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Achim,
I was thinking about your ignition issues, and I would suggest the reed switch failed due to current limits being exceeded, with a reed being particularly sensitive, as it has little area to dissipate heat from current, and a long "reed", for heat to generate. I use a lot of used parts, salvaged, as I work on a limited budget, but many of the micro switches I run across are rated for constant currents of two amps or more, yet are perhaps five by seven by two millimeters rectangular, and would easily fit in the space you have your points set up. It it'd help, I'd be happy to mail you a couple or three of these switches, if you intend to keep with the remote triggered transistor ignition conversion system. I was thinking while looking at your pictures of your last work, the making of your points system, "if he can swag all that together in a matter of fact way, he just needs to slim them up a bit and he can add a centrifugal advance right behind the points setup. I am a little amazed you just went to machine the parts and fit the home made points shoe-horned into that tiny space in front of the cylinder. With you engine, and all the comments from others who have had similar problems with the hall effect switches, and the general discussion of ignitions, I think I'm going to look into this, and see what can be found, and best suited for this tiny application. Small engines should have small, self contained ignition setups, just like their bigger counterparts.
I really like your attitude of just stopping with a problem and then diving in head first and making something to fix it, and when that turns bad, diving in again without hesitation and trying something tried and true, while you work out another idea. I got used to that attitude while in the Marines, and with yours, I think you'd have made a good Marine. Have you ever considered building a radial sleeve valve engine? Just curious - Mad Jack :smart: :coffee:
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Very Cool !!!
Congratulations from Brazil!!!!
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Hello to all,
sorry for my really long absence on writing here, so today I have to show a couple of new photos for compensation …ha ha ha…..
In the mean time the little engine was completed with a more presentable motor stand
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_540.JPG)
a petrol tank carrying a glass cylinder as midsection
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_534.JPG)
a nice propeller (for use on festive days only) made from maple and Swiss pear wood
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_541.JPG)
and last but not least a somewhat more sophisticated carburator.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_521.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_522.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_501.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_504.JPG)
including a small float chamber.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_510.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_511.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_512.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_513.JPG)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_VER1_506.JPG)
And two new videos here:
First test runs of the new carb in front of my red sofa…..(was too inpatient for packing the engine and driving to the countryside….ha ha ha….):
http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_RUNNING_CARB_II_02.mpg
And an outside run at 8thousand rpm with some close-up views of the busy working breaker points:
http://pl-hi.de/JST/SLVE/SLVE_RUNNING_Kontakt.mpg
As you can see (and hear), throttle response is really spontaneous with the new carb, and throttling is now longer critical, the idle speed is always steady down to 1500 rpm ore even lower.
Good by from Achim
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Wow! Must wipe the drool off of my keyboard. That is amazing looking. :bow: :bow: :bow:
Eric
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After to agree with Eric. Amazing looking engine.
I didn't get any sound though. How about you Eric?
Bernd
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Bernd, you might want to first d/l the videos to your machine, then use Media Player Classic (if you don´t have it, it´s a free d/l from http://www.cccp-project.net/ and many other sites. 6 Mb. They call it there "Combined Community Codec Pack", it includes a lot of codecs, and some 3 video players) to watch. It will play most any video file, with all features. Including mpg.
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WOW :jaw: that is a thing of beauty
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Achim, you cheated!! You went from having a bit of ignition trouble with your micro switches, to a completed engine with a float carburetor, a glass fuel tank, and a beautiful mount, and prop, all without showing one bit to your mates on line, how could you? Did you find a new love who also happens to be a machinist? Does she cook and make you happy as well? All joking aside, you've done a major jump from where you left off, to the beautiful piece of equipment you have before us now. I was wondering if you would end up with a float type carburetor, in the end, they are always the best for good running, including variable speed that is reliable. You have fine taste with wood and metal and combining the two for beauty, and your penchant for offsetting brass with aluminum and offsetting aluminum with brass does you proud, it really makes a fine looking engine and draws the eye to it immediately. Having just downloaded your two videos, I have to say it is one of the best sounding model engines I've ever heard. I give credit for that to the float carburetor, and the full control you've built into it, giving the engine good mixture control across the rpm band. A fine finish to an inspiring project, I am in personal awe :jaw: :bugeye: :bow: mad jack
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My first post ever at this forums, but what a thread to "start at"!
Except all droped yaws and well deserved compliments by others I must add that your website really inspired me to "get started for real" in my own shop. To be honest, I am very spoiled I think when it comes to space, machines (even if old) etc. I just have to take my time to start somewhere. And what can be better then start with tools and equipment, making it work as intended or maybe even better. :dremel:
Thanks for sharing and inspire all of us. :thumbup:
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Very nice!! :thumbup: :headbang: :bow:
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By the way, Achim, did anyone tell you, your engine runs backwards? I am assuming the propeller is set up as a normal aircraft prop, for pulling, and not as a pusher prop. Engines are always supposed to run clockwise from the pilot's perspective, unless there are two engines and one is counter-rotating. I had to take a look at your log again, just to get a better look at the extremely fine work you did on that carburetor. That is a very touchy piece, and you've done a lot of very fine work, I envy your drawings and skill with CAD, while I still work with a pencil in sketches. :bugeye: :jaw: :bow: mad jack
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Many thanks for your compliments and appreciation to all of you.
And Jack, no I don’t have a new love who demands my attention….ha ha ha….but the time I can spend for my hobby is fluctuating, mostly depending on the utilisation in the job. And writing articles in several forums is part of my hobby activities also, but I need time or in other words leisure to do this (especially writing in the English ones), otherwise it’s no real fun to me. That’s the reason for some pauses from time to time, in handicraft work and in writing (and sometimes answering) as well. I am sorry for that, but I promise to come back with my next project.
And yes, the engine is running backwards, backwards if the driving direction of conventional RC plane engines is the criteria of the evaluation. My very first plan was to run the motor with a flywheel only, the idea of using a propeller instead came not before the cylinder and port design was already finished. So the direction was determined and I had to look for a left turning propeller, but a suitable version (I need a relative big midsection to have a way to the central collet nut) was hard to find on the market and I had to make my own ones.
Achim
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:bugeye: :jaw: :bow: :thumbup:
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Hi Achim, you sound like a busy man, you must be happy. I may steal some of your thoughts on carburetion when it is time for a carburetor for my radial, of all the options I've looked at, none is as independent from the fuel supply as a float carb is, and I'm just going to run it, not fly it. If it has enough power, I might use it to push a 14 foot boat up the creek I live on, but I don't know about that yet. That is probably the finest carburetor I've ever seen built for a model engine, the equal to a comercial one, yet far more beautiful, and of course, hand made. You truly have set a standard for a lot of aspects of model engine building, you have a gorgeous finished engine, and it runs great. I wish we were neighbors, and could visit. :jaw: :bow: mad jack
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Greetings,
Nice engine! I must agree that the carb looks fabulous. :clap:
VW based engine conversions turn the same way as yours.
http://www.aeroconversions.com/products/aerovee/index.html
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Achim, I just wanted you to know that comment about rotating backwards is just the worst thing I could find regarding your engine, so I had to throw it in. The man who sells the plans and some of the parts for the radial engine I'm building is working on plans for a sleeve valve radial engine, and has been for a few years, he shows where he is on the projects on his website, ageless engines, if you wanted to check it out. If I'm not mistaken, it's a scale model of a Bristol engine which was run in some aircraft during the war. What did you end up using for a spark plug, and how is it working out for you? :poke: mad jack