MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => How do I?? => Topic started by: Chuck in E. TN on July 10, 2010, 11:03:11 AM
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It has been over 45 years since I had any shop training, and I honestly can’t remember if my question was covered in class!
I want to know how to best remove the burr created by milling or turning, such that I don’t remove the crisp edge just created by the machine operation. This is especially difficult for me on small pieces as in model engines.
I use a fine file, but usually end up with a rounded, uneven edge. I’m not sure if my choice of file, or my filing ability is in question. I have seen the deburring tools with the swiveling s-shaped blades. Is this what I need?
I have downloaded several old shop text books, but so far haven’t found anything on deburring. The only thing I have seen, is on this Japanese site: http://www.nmri.go.jp/eng/khirata/metalwork/basic/bari/index_e.html
He shows examples of burrs on small aluminum blocks that have been milled, and using the vertical edge of a wood bench to guide deburring the block. Are there any other secrets out there? I know this must be a fairly simple process. Maybe I’m over simplifying it? A Google search of “manual deburring techniques” hasn’t found much.
Chuck in E. TN
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i use solid scotchbrite wheels for most of my deburring.
to leave a sharpe edge, i'd try scotchbrite sheets with a file/rule behind?
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Chuck,
I have always made my own deburring scrapers......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/p8230001.jpg)
Works for me!
David D
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I watched a documentary on California's San Quentin prison and they showed the "museum" where they display items confiscated from the inmates. They had three "shivs" that looked just like that.
I guess, with all the time on their hands, they do a lot of deburring there.
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My thoughts too ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, YOU DUN TIME David :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob :D
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No but he will do if he's caught out at night with those in his pocket.
John S.
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Way back in the '60's when I did my Time (apprenticeship NOT jail time!) first year apprentices spent 6 months in the Training School learning the basics, then the first move out of the Training School was to the "Press Shop", which as far as apprentices were concerned was all about deburring. The tool of choice, not that there was any choice) was an old file, no bigger than 8", with all the teeth ground off, leaving two or three hollow ground edges. This deburring tool was wiped rapidly down the "as cut" edge of a piece of aluminium at about 45degrees, voila! no burrs. These scrapers worked best on Al Alloy (it was an aircraft company), ok on steel, and not at all on magnesium, because magnesium had to be left with something like a radius. So another special tool was required, along with a pair of leather gloves....undeburred magnesium can slice to the bone without you knowing.
I still use my 50 year old deburring tool occasionally, if I can find it I'll try and get the boss to photograph it to put here.
Cheers
Bill Pudney
Adelaide, Australia
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Hi Chuck;
I just use a fine file on almost everything that needs the edges 'broken' but not 'flattened'. Take care not to rock your file
over the corners or everything will end up round. A fairly fine file, like a small (4" or 6") single cut smooth mill file and a
light touch will get it. Use a good file! Avoid the cheap ones that look like the teeth were cut by a drunk man with a chisel.
Go at it easy, make your cuts very light, and don't rock it! Use the long dimension of the file on longer corners, and if
the work is small enough, hold the file steady and move the work piece across the file. Use the short dimension of the file
for smaller edges, and don't file it back and forth, as if you are sawing something, but side to side, and be gentle.
If you need to do fine work on small parts, wrap a piece of 1200 grit wet-or-dry paper around your file. It will keep the
paper flat, just like the file. Again, go easy.
Either of these ways will work for straight edges and many curved edges. If you have a fairly small inside radius to do, get
the finest chainsaw file you can find, and again, go easy.
I guess my main theme is, go easy.
Dean
(http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/follow/8.jpg)
(http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/auxspindle/30.jpg)
(http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/mill/boring/51.jpg)
(http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/indicatorstand/17.jpg)
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Use a good file!
Truer words were never said!
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An old technique that can be used for deburring blocks and plates is "drawfiling" — see here:
http://www.btinternet.com/~hognosesam/targets/targets1/drawfiling.htm (http://www.btinternet.com/~hognosesam/targets/targets1/drawfiling.htm)
The description given there refers to use of the process for finishing flat workpieces. Put simply, you use a fine file like a spokeshave. But it works just as well for deburring sharp edges. In this case you angle the file at 45 degrees and draw it back and forth along the workpiece edge using your thumbs as 'stops' to maintain the angle.
Joe