MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: Ross on January 29, 2012, 03:12:04 PM
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Hi everyone,
This is my first steam engine project I'm doing on my mini lathe,
I'm working to these drawings, give or take!
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Products/Drawings/2593OscillatingEngineAssembly.pdf
This is a bit of a learning curve for me so feel free to comment if you see any mistakes or anything i can improve on etc..
I made a start this weekend, I didn't get much done as I was messing about with sharpening tools and other bits and pieces.
I faced the aluminium stock flywheel
Some action shots:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/87d7e700.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/0be7655c.jpg)
Then I centre drilled so I can top it, at a later date.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/ea239db0.jpg)
The finished product for now, (excuse the finger marks)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/1dec7c0e.jpg)
Next I faced and centre drilled the crank, it still needs to be cut and faced to its final length.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/29be3482.jpg)
Lastly, I faced the piston to the required length,
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/de5e76cc.jpg)
That's it for now..
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God start Ross :thumbup:
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Thats a great start.
Are you going to be doing an 'artistic remodel' of it?
Eric
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Hi
Ross
Of to a good start
It is great when it starts to come together
John
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Well on your way. I still have to make the flywheels a bit oversize so I can trim out the wobble after mounted to the crank.
So much fun when the metal comes to life.
Robert
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Ross,
That is one great start :thumbup: :clap:
Very well posted, nicely photographed - well done :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
:beer:
DaveH
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Great start, Ross! Nice pictures there, too.
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:Doh:
Thats a great start.
Are you going to be doing an 'artistic remodel' of it?
Eric
Thanks Eric,
I'll be changing a few bits, but not so much that it chsnges the engine as a whole. we'll see I'm sure I'll have to make done mods along the way!
Ross
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Good start Ross,
One thing I have learnt is that if I need to drill and tap a hole to an item held by the chuck, I tend to do it while everything is still setup.
Obviously sometimes this isnt possible, depends on what your next steps are I guess.
I am looking forward to seeing this project take shape.
Nick
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HI and you is off and ruining no looking back lots of fun
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Just spotted this post, Ross! Where have I been? :scratch:
You're away to a good start. Take your time. Steady as you go....... :thumbup:
David D
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Another half a day day spent in the shed today,
I managed to face the square bar that will be the cylinder to it's final length, I think I'll file some chamfers on two of the corners once I've bored the holes etc.. Some photos;
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/4d55fda1.jpg)
Finished product:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/3e864073.jpg)
After that, I topped the flywheel using a drive from friction:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/3ea41668.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/d0d07bbf.jpg)
Finished product, I still need to machine the flywheel indents.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/24c4500f.jpg)
Lastly, I faced the base and centre drilled. I haven't yet figured out how I'll top it though!
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/ce7d178a.jpg)
That's all for today, more tommorow.
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nice work!
:ddb:
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Ross.
Nicely done, with the square bar in a three jaw chuck....... :clap:
The base. Can't you top it using friction drive? Same as the flywheel...... :thumbup:
David D
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Hello Ross,
May I know what is the black disc between the flywheel and the chuck jaws in the pics showing the driving by fraction?
I've 2 x 12mm thick disc to turn and would like to use the same method you have shown.
Regards,
Wong
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Hello Ross,
May I know what is the black disc between the flywheel and the chuck jaws in the pics showing the driving by fraction?
I've 2 x 12mm thick disc to turn and would like to use the same method you have shown.
Regards,
Wong
It's a large-ish washer covered evenly in insulation tape!
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I was out in the shed again today, but I abandoned as there is something I just can't get right!
I marked out the piston, and I need to drill the hole through for the piston. Though it's offset about .375" so Ive tried to offset it in the 3 jaw with packing to little effect, I just can't get my centre punch mark to centre!
Here's my problem.
Would it be better to use the 4-jaw chuck for this? or is there a more successful way of doing this with a 3-jaw instead of trial and error.
Ross
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Ross.
Here's where you get to practice setting up that new 4-jaw! :thumbup:
David D
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I was out in the shed again today, but I abandoned as there is something I just can't get right!
I marked out the piston, and I need to drill the hole through for the piston. Though it's offset about .375" so Ive tried to offset it in the 3 jaw with packing to little effect, I just can't get my centre punch mark to centre!
Would it be better to use the 4-jaw chuck for this? or is there a more successful way of doing this with a 3-jaw instead of trial and error.
Ross
4-Jaw would be the best choice, once you do it a couple times it becomes easy
Robert
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Nice work Ross,
You can calculate the amount of packing you need but it's nowhere near as obvious as you'd think! Marv has a program to work it out called ECCENT but it doesn't seem to work on my system anymore for some reason!
Nick
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If you have a 64 bit system now you will need DosBox (free download) to run legacy DOS programs.
Regardless, a 4jaw is much more secure than redneck shimming in the 3jaw.
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Thanks Marv,
I think you have told me that before, I must be losing my marbles!
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Hi
Ross
4 jaw chuck is the way to go
The more you use them the easier it becomes
I often use a 4 jaw for round stock just to save changing the chuck
John
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Had a few hours spare today,
I cut, filed and marked out the main plate that everything will be fastened to. I've just got to sit down and work out tapping drill sizes for some of the threaded holes.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/f2d51458.jpg)
I started Turning the outer edge of the base down to size so it can fit in the clamp of the drill press.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/dbfbd5a8.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/506a94c3.jpg)
Meanwhile, I've ordered the adapter plate for my 4-jaw chuck. If all goes well I should be up to drilling the cylinder by the end of the week.
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I got the backplate machined for the four jaw Chuck.
But I now need to put the workpiece off set. I've never done this before, so whats the most effective way of doing this?
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/06e90564.jpg)
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Hi
Ross
You need to remove the tube.
Use some packing pieces to protect the job (i use bits of aluminium plate.
If you have a clock gauge it will make set up much easier.
What i do is put a spare lathe centre in between the punch mark and the tail stock centre.
A clock gauge is placed on the spare centre near the chuck .as the job is rotated (by hand)the spare centre will wobble about the chuck is adjusted until it remains stationary.
Sounds complicated but is really easy to do , you can get it to run dead true by this method.
I have been looking for a picture of the set up
If no one posts a picture for you i will do a video (worth a thousand words)
John
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Yhis shows how to do it
If it is good enough for Rob it must be good
John
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Hi
Ross
You need to remove the tube.
Use some packing pieces to protect the job (i use bits of aluminium plate.
If you have a clock gauge it will make set up much easier.
What i do is put a spare lathe centre in between the punch mark and the tail stock centre.
A clock gauge is placed on the spare centre near the chuck .as the job is rotated (by hand)the spare centre will wobble about the chuck is adjusted until it remains stationary.
Sounds complicated but is really easy to do , you can get it to run dead true by this method.
I have been looking for a picture of the set up
If no one posts a picture for you i will do a video (worth a thousand words)
John
That's a great tip. Thanks for the video link too, I'll give it a go later.
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Hi everyone,
I set up the square block in the lathe, it took a while to get it perfect but it was satisfying once I'd got it right.
First I centre drilled, then I started with a small drill bit and worked my way up.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/6cd2ff02.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/06d292f6.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/a78541aa.jpg)
I drill the hole to 11mm. Though I'm not sure about the best way to finish it. The final diameter for the bore is 12.5mm do I ream the bore or can I use a boring bar to achieve a good finish?
That all for now.
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Hi Ross... A few links that may help you get it finished straight?
Boring does work but often leaves a surface in need of lapping.
Else you could have a go at D bits and then a little amount of lapping may be required?
If you have the need to smooth things out a little afterwards?
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=591.0
If you have the means to make them?
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2312.msg24257#msg24257
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1334.msg11778#msg11778
Hope that helps in some way? Good luck :thumbup:
Ralph.
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Yhis shows how to do it
If it is good enough for Rob it must be good
John
Good link, I've always wondered how to do this.
Nick
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After speaking to still drilling on the phone last night, I decided that I'd try and use a boring bar to achieve the finish, I felt D-bits would be a bit of a pain to make for a beginner.
I made a couple of passes, the tool rubbed alot so I re ground it and it seemed to work better, though some 'lapping' was required.
After a while I think I'm happy with the finish, there is no nasty lines just a nice smooth finish all the way down.
Here is a picture, but is hard to photograph as the lighting is no good in the shed.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/f31c0cd1.jpg)
The next step is to put a recess on the end of the hole. I drilled right through the cylinder so I'll make a cap that is fanged to fit the recess and solder it in. But what is the best way to effectively cut the recess?with a normal cutting tool making small cuts working out from the hole?
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But what is the best way to effectively cut the recess?with a normal cutting tool making small cuts working out from the hole?
Personally I'd use the boring bar.
Assuming that your recess is going to be very slight, 1mm ish deep and not much wider than the bore itself?
Then you can as you said. go into the hole (not touching metal ) and then cut out as far as you want to.
You could also set the bar at the desired width and plunge cut the recess (you may want to experiment with this method first... Know your machines/tools capability and all that!)
If it's deeper and too much for one cut without chattering then I'd make multiple small roughing cuts and then a final one to finish it off neatly.
We probably have different ways of making stuff (We all do I suppose) but my way would be make the recess and then make the cap to fit it.
That way if I made a mistake, say wider or deeper recess than I originally wanted. I make the cap fit my mistake and it's not a mistake any more..... Well, not for others to know anywho :)
As said... Personal method. Plenty of other ways of flaying innocent kittens! :bugeye:
Ralph.
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I Put the recess on the end of the cylinder, and took it out of the chuck. thanks for the tips!
Picture:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/7fda89d9.jpg)
In heinsight I should've drilled the hole for the cylinder port before drilling the bore. It'll leave a burr when I do, but I've made a little makeshift honing tool which should clean it all up a treat hopefully.
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Ross,
Coming along nicely - well done :thumbup: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
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Hi
Ross
Well done :thumbup: :worthless:
Every time you do something you learn a little bit more
John
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Hi
Ross
:worthless:
Don't quite understand this. He's put pics in almost every post!
Doing great, Ross! Keep at it.
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Hi Ross
:thumbup: Your doing a fine job; just take it a bit at the time and you'll soon have a runner :D
In heinsight I should've drilled the hole for the cylinder port before drilling the bore. It'll leave a burr when I do, but I've made a little makeshift honing tool which should clean it all up a treat hopefully.
Kudos to you for thinking through things like that :thumbup: - you'll find thinking about things a bit on future projects one of the best tools in your shop, but it does come with a bit of "learning the hard way" :)
The burrs are a problem either way; if you did the port first, it's very likely that the boring operation on the cylinder would leave a burr in the port - slightly blocking it. That then has to be cleaned up by running a drill through, and in my limited experience will bend over a bit of the burr into the cylinder again - requiring a bit of a lap or run-trough with a reamer again.
Either way in my experience, you need to fine-finish the bore of the cylinder as a last operation.
Don't worry about this too much for your first engine though :thumbup: - once the bug has bitten you and you build more engines, you'll naturally start thinking about these kinds of issues. The main thing is that you take every bit that you learn and try and apply that later - sometimes its frustrating, and at other exhilarating - but either way its a load of fun :ddb:
:beer:, Arnold
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Hi
Ross
:worthless:
Don't quite understand this. He's put pics in almost every post!
Doing great, Ross! Keep at it.
Sorry i clicked the wrong icon (be the wine)
Pictures are great by the way
John
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Just another update,
I drilled the port hole through on the cylinder.
Somehow it is out and to the left by 0.7mm :doh: so I opened the hole out a little with a centre drill, and worst case I can move the port holes on the plate that the cylinder will sit on across 0.7mm. I double checked the measurements by touching on with the drill first and all seemed well, but these things happen I suppose!
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/efd5d598.jpg)
I de-blurred the bore of the cylinder with my little homemade honing/lapping tool on the drill it worked brilliantly, so I'm happy with the finish inside the bore.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/e32a6865.jpg)
I'll try and find the time to machine the cap for the end of the cylinder this week, I just want to get this part done before no more mistakes happen!!
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and worst case I can move the port holes on the plate that the cylinder will sit on across 0.7mm.
Is right! :dremel:
I've done a lot of that "slightly out" type drilling before, and for that matter a few cases of slightly out milling and turning too.... Quite a few more regularly than I should probably admit to :palm: Anyway....
Usually I take a step back, tell myself off a little, get over it and figure out whether I can continue to use it in a slightly modified fashion?
Same as you have :nrocks: :borg:
Other than the little misfire it all looks to be going to plan :thumbup:
Keep at it Ross, you'll have a loverly little wobbler in no time. (calling Mr Howard, time for your tag line :lol:)
Ralph.
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Ross,
Looking good :thumbup: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
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I made the end cap for the cylinder today, It was fiddly to make but I got there.
First I turned the diameter of the bore,
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/d0825cc7.jpg)
Then I turned the diameter of the part that will fit into the recess,
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/50a54d8c.jpg)
I cut the material in half and worked backwards facing the length.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/0aa418fe.jpg)
I purposely left and overlap on the length of the end cap I was going to make it flush but I decided against it. I put a taper on the cap too.
Here is the finished article:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/8e1eb8e7.jpg)
And it fitted on the cylinder.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/c542e1d5.jpg)
I'll have a go at soldering it at the weekend, enough work for one day!
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Good job Ross :thumbup: :clap:
Fiddly is good, :) once one can do fiddly things, then you will be able to do anything :)
It is coming along nicely :thumbup: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
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Ross.
This hobby is all gubbinses and widgets...... And that widget looks right at home, mated to the gubbins you made earlier! :thumbup:
Well done! :clap: :clap:
David D
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I soldered the cap on today,
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/a33aee89.jpg)
And out of curiously I polished it too!
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/4a858cfd.jpg)
Now I've neely finished the cylinder, I've just got to drill and tap the hole for then trunion pin. It needs to be M3, I got a set of taps for Christmas, but I wouldn't trust a tap as small as that from the set!
So I need to buy a high quality tap and drill, I've found a 3mm tap, it's a reduced to £3 would it be okay just to get a plug tap?
(15th down)
http://www.tap-die.com/contents/en-uk/d140_Metric_taps.html
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Ross,
So I need to buy a high quality tap and drill, I've found a 3mm tap, it's a reduced to £3 would it be okay just to get a plug tap?
(15th down)
http://www.tap-die.com/contents/en-uk/d140_Metric_taps.html
It can be difficult to start the tap, especially if you don't have a taping stand.
Also one is more likely to break a plug tap(because of the full cutting force) without using a taper tap first.
:beer:
DaveH
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In brass, I'd use a cheap (Aldi's) tapered tap first, to give a decent plug/bottoming tap (with its point, if it has one, ground away) an easy start.
Andy
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Today I machined the crank to the correct diameter, I'm waiting for a tapping drill, to arrive for the cylinder.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/9d5fdd99.jpg)
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Hi everyone,
Today I got around to drilling and tapping the cylinder. I brought a proper M4 HSS tap as the Chinese taps I have look like they are made out of plastic and I just can't trust them!
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/bb43ec34.jpg)
I also did a bit more to the crank and turned part of it down so that the hole for the M3 grub screw can be drilled. Tommorow I'll set up up offset in the lathe and drill the hole for the crankpin too.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/ad340fd0.jpg)
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Today I drilled and tapped all the remaining holes on the crank to M3 and drilled the centre to 6mm.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/4fc5b95c.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/edffb771.jpg)
I'll get on with the piston hopefully tomorrow.
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Hi
Ross
Coming along very nicely :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
John
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Your collection of parts is gowing nicely Ross! :clap:
Good luck with the piston. Take your time. Rather too tight, than too loose...... :thumbup:
David D
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Today I got around to machining the piston.
I forgot to take the camera down to the shed for this part!
I started off at one end and brought it down to the size of the bore. But I went undersized! Luckily I just flipped the workpiece over and did this same, but this times was careful to get a snug fit inside the bore.
Once I had got the piston head made I turned the Conrod down to size and drilled a hole at the bottom so it fits the crank.
Some photos of the piston:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/6699263b.jpg)
And the fit into the bore.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/bd26cb56.jpg)
I also buffed up the cylinder it's all shiny now.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/7c79f1ac.jpg)
After that I scavenged an m6 bolt. It was one of those that were only part threaded, and it would be perfect for my crankshaft. [/b][/size][/font]
I sawed the thread to size, then put it in the lathe and face it to length.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/7b4f4a26.jpg)
I was expecting to do a small cut to the diameter of the bolt, but I tested it with the crank first and it fit snugly so I've left it!
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/9e9fa124.jpg)
That's it for this weekend,
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Hi
Ross
It wont be long before it is a runner :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
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Today a little brass rod I ordered arrived,
It was for the trunion bolt, (I might get some hex for that) and the crank pin.
I started on the crank pin and I would've got it finished, but the god old tap and die set let me down once again. Before I threw it all half way across the UK I stopped, and put the small useless tools in the bin where they belong! I had some success with using the bigger sizes of that set, M8 and M6 etc.. But the smaller ones are not machined properly, if at all.
Anyway... Onto the crank pin.
I started by facing the brass then turning the diameter to 3.5 mm. From there I worked my Down with small cuts until the hole in the Conrod of the piston was a good fit, not sloppy but enough play so it just "dangles"
Facing:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/4e322bf2.jpg)
Testing with the piston:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/99fe30de.jpg)
I then proceeded to take part of the pin down to 3mm so it can be threaded with the die.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/f0bf8e2c.jpg)
I got the die out and it wouldn't start on the pin. The exact problem I was hiving with the taps, I applied a bit more pressure while turning. And then the die just slipped off the end leaving a nice trail of marks behind it.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/fa90ad08.jpg)
Being the perfectionist that I am, tided up the end and extended the 3mm diameter a little bit. I'll get a 3mm die from a good tool shop next to my college and thread it on Thursday.
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Hi Ross,
Coming along nicely :thumbup: :clap:
Sometimes it helps to put a small chamfer on the part you are going to die.
Also many dies have a "right side" to start the thread
Looking good Ross
:beer:
DaveH
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Looking good, Ross :thumbup:
Like DaveH says, a chamfer can help the die to get started. And the side of the die which should be facing the work is usually the side with the size etc etched on.
If it's a split die, open it up a bit with the conical middle screw in your die stock or die holder before you do up the screws on either side.
Another way to get it going is to put a bit of M3 rod in your tailstock drill chuck, run the die on to it, butt the M3 rod up against your embryo screw, and run the die across the join with a diestock until it has cut a turn or two with the M3 thread pushing it forward. If you have no tailstock die holder just carry on with the die stock, but if you have a tailstock die holder change over to it, because it will be better at keeping the die aligned.
Andy
Andy
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Remember Ross the diameter must be 2.94 mm for a 3mm die :coffee:
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I had a go at threading the brass pin last night but I failed, so I gave up. I re made the pin tonight in bras again and it just wouldn't work for me, the threads just seemed to be crushed. I turned the diameter to 3.00mm and by the time the die had done its work it was a mess and down to 2.60mm.
I decided that maybe the brass was too soft for this size of die, so I tired aluminium instead.
I remade the pin once again, and it threaded beautifully.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/a6c60ff5.jpg)
I parted the pin from the Ali rod and faced up to length its now attached to the crank:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/5c749b1c.jpg)
I had to make adjustments the piston as it did not have enough clearance for a full turn of the crank so a few mm was taken off.
I want to try and Sort the base out this weekend. Do you guys think it would good chamfered or a few steps added to it for decoration?
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/ef4c5408.jpg)
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I turned the diameter to 3.00mm
As I told you you have to turn the diameter to 2.94 mm otherwise it will fail. :poke:
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Some steps on the base would dress it up nice, Ross. Then break the edges just a bit. Up to you, of course!
Far as threading goes, if you have a good split die, you can thread it full diameter with no problem.
Looks like you did fine with the aluminum one. A chamfer helps with what ever type die you use.
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Ross,
A couple of steps and round the edges off can look nice. Takes a bit of carefull doing.
"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder"
:beer:
DaveH
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I turned the diameter to 3.00mm
As I told you you have to turn the diameter to 2.94 mm otherwise it will fail. :poke:
Surely 0.06mm would make too much of a difference?
Some steps on the base would dress it up nice, Ross. Then break the edges just a bit. Up to you, of course!
I think steps would be good, what do you mean by breaking up the edges? with chamfers?
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Ross,
"Breaking the edges" just a term used to say no sharp edges. Can be done carefully with some fine emery in the lathe. Just enough to take off any sharp edges. Makes it "nicer" to handle.
Chamfer is normally a more specific operation to a achieve a desired look, or to get rid of what was a bad edge. A chamfer may be 1mm, 3mm or more, remember now you have two extra edges to break, either side of the chamfer.
:beer:
DaveH
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I turned the diameter to 3.00mm
As I told you you have to turn the diameter to 2.94 mm otherwise it will fail. :poke:
Surely 0.06mm would make too much of a difference?
Frankly, I don't think two thou', will make any difference at all....... :scratch:
You're doing well, Ross! :thumbup:
David D
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I have some 3mm stainless round which mikes up as 3.09mm. Why, I don't know. But as 3.09mm is some .0035" less than 1/8" I would guess it's actually 1/8".
Bought together with some 4mm & 5mm which are correct. Seen off AGAIN ... :bang:
Anyway, I can get a 3mm thread on that OK.
Sure you have brass, Ross ?? Not something awful like drawn Phosphor Bronze ??
Die opened out properly, some need to be all the way out. ??
I would suggest if it will do ally, it should do CZ121 brass .. aluminium is mostly rubbish stuff to thread, depending on the grade.
BC
EDIT Try putting a taper lead to start the thread .. like a long chamfer ...
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I have some 3mm stainless round which mikes up as 3.09mm. Why, I don't know. But as 3.09mm is some .0035" less than 1/8" I would guess it's actually 1/8".
3.09mm is .0035" too big for 3mm and .0035" too small for 1/8". You got the shaft both ways. ; )
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Didn't get as much done as I'd hoped this weekend.
I Finnish turned all sides on the base and put a chamfer on the top. I'll see how it looks once it is assembled it may look better with steps.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/2fae2d8f.jpg)
As or the threading on the brass I'll give it another go when I do the trunion pin M4.
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Hi everyone
Just took a break form this project and I'm getting back into the swing of it now.
Today I made the trunion bolt.
first I turned the end down to roughly 4mm for the M4 thread. The depth of the hole on the cylinder was 6mm.
I then threaded the diameter and turned the rest of the bolt to 5mm
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/47b47779.jpg)
I drilled the 5mm hole in the plate that will hold it all together.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/3edfff91.jpg)
I parted off the bolt and faced the head to a sensible length and our a slight chamfer on the top.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/187b95bb.jpg)
The finished product:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/0ef2477b.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/8856fa5f.jpg)
I'll try and make the brass parts for the portholes tommorow.
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That looks good Ross! :thumbup:
Nice to see you're back on the job........ :D
David D
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well dun can not wate to see it all made up
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Hi
Ross
Pleased to see you back on the job
Looking good
John
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Good job on the bolt, Ross. Looks very nice. :thumbup:
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Today I made the brass nuts that that the steam and exhaust pipes will be soldered to.
First I turned 20mm of the brass down to 3.90 mm I was determined to have another go at threading the brass.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/b5f9c0bf.jpg)
The I cut the metal and turned it around in the chuck and faced it to length.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/68cee756.jpg)
I drilled a 2mm hole right through the piece. This will be the port hole essentially. And I took the outer diameter down to 6mm.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/890b4747.jpg)
I turned the piece back around and threaded m4 with the die.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/0900ce6a.jpg)
I repeated these steps and made another.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/f4853456.jpg)
I drilled and tapped the main plate and screwed them in. I will seal the threads with Plumbers PTFE tape and a fibre washer, that should stop the steam.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/540ef142.jpg)
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Ross,
Perfect :thumbup: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
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Looking good
Ross
It wont be long before it is a runner :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
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Very interesting reading through this Ross.
It's easy to forget the amount of things that just "don't go right" when you first get your machine/s. :doh:
We've all had and still often do have those arrrggg! moments where it takes a great deal of self control not to throw your work at the nearest wall! :bang:
Glad you persevered and obtained the good results :thumbup:
Looking forward to the "it's running" post.... but not as much as you are eh? :)
On the taps and die front.... Are you using split dies or die nuts? Makes quite a difference.
Just to add my 2p worth.... I always undersize a part to be threaded "male" and oversize a part to be threaded female.
It depends on thread dia and pitch as to just how much it really makes a difference. My torches M12x1.5 are quite forgiving. model size stuff I make using M2 threads are not! Time and experiences (stressful as they are) will let you know where the detail is required :thumbup:
Ralph.
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On the taps and die front.... Are you using split dies or die nuts? Makes quite a difference.
Just to add my 2p worth.... I always undersize a part to be threaded "male" and oversize a part to be threaded female.
It depends on thread dia and pitch as to just how much it really makes a difference. My torches M12x1.5 are quite forgiving. model size stuff I make using M2 threads are not! Time and experiences (stressful as they are) will let you know where the detail is required :thumbup:
Ralph.
Hi Ralph,
Ive got a mixture of split and nut type dies, the smaller ones are split type.
I'm getting there with the threading I think, it's all trial and error.
-
Hi everyone.
Today I put the final pieces together for this engine,
I marked out the holes on the base and the engine post.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/751080ec.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/f66f2e8d.jpg)
I then drilled and tapped the holes in the post to M6 I drilled the hole for the crankshaft too.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/b6039a79.jpg)
And drilled the holes in the base with sunk holes for the bolt heads.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/47be57f4.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/0dbf2f0e.jpg)
Next I assembled the base and post.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/60b7319c.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/3f3a7708.jpg)
And finally I assembled the other bits and bobs. Just the flywheel ad pipe work to do now!
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/089efa49.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/a41ee8cb.jpg)
I tried machining the recess on the flywheel with no luck. The tool rubs alot has anyone got any further tips on this?
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/aac9c8d4.jpg)
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Hi Ross,
Glad you're getting the threading under your belt. It'll still bite you now and again... Well it does me!
Looking good on the engine front.
Flywheels are notoriously annoying to cut out/ trepan or what have you...
You might find it easier to build one from 2/3 parts?
I'll pen a C-o-C for you to help explain :thumbup:
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll221/dividedhead/Crap-o-Cad/Image00200.jpg)
Does this make sense?
You make a displacer disk (bottom bit) and then the 3 parts of the flywheel are assembled with a smear of loctite (the .9 measurements are to show a smaller fit... Might need to be nearer .6 to allow for easy assembly?)
Anywho, loctite the outer edge of the disc and the hub. install onto the displacer disc and lower the outer ring over and make sure it's all flat (I'd assemble on the surface plate.... There should not be enough loctite to drip down. And it can be wiped up easy enough)
Leave over night and then it should have bonded well enough to be able to drill the centre hole (using soft jaws if you have them? for greater acuracy. )
You could make it in 2 parts but the hub is easier to make and bond I'm thinking!
As long as the bits are a sliding fit and you have a reasonable strength loctite it's a relatively easy way to make a flywheel :dremel:
Hmmm... Thinking about it you could even machine a micro step in the ring (at 6.5mm in this drawing and it's sizes) and centre so the parts sit to a shoulder?
Cat skinning and all that!
Hope that helps? I'm sure someone will go into the trepanning side of things?
If you need any further things to be drawn out, over complificated and long windyfied just ask :beer: :)
Ralph.
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Hi everyone,
I ground up the tool today an made a start on the recess in the flywheel.
This is how far I got; I'll finish it tomorrow.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/f0f48f15.jpg)
one thing I need a bit of advice on I'd the best way to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft.
The drawing says it should be a screw fit. I've got a crankshaft with an m6 thread on the end I can use. Or should I use. Grubscrew to Secure it instead?
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/0c5e2426.jpg)
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Flywheel is looking good, Ross. : )
As for the threads on the crankshaft, if you were to thread the flywheel for the same thread, then screw it onto the
crankshaft, you can get a pretty noticeable wobble due to the clearance in the threads, and when it bottoms out on
the unthreaded part of the crank, it will often cause it to seat cockeyed on the shaft.
If you make a plain hole in the center of the flywheel that is the same diameter as the crankshaft, you can push it on
with a little Loctite and it will hold quite well. A set screw is fine, too. Either way, you need a close fit between the
crankshaft and flywheel to avoid the wobblies. A wobbly flywheel is quite noticeable, so it's something to work at in
keeping it straight.
Best of luck. You look to be getting close to the first run! :thumbup:
-
Ross.
A plain shaft, with a close fitting flywheel bore. :thumbup:
I hate to see wobabbly flywheels............. (http://freesmileyface.net/smiley/unhappy/unhappy-072.png) (http://freesmileyface.net/free-unhappy-smileys.html)
David D
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Ok that's a a better idea.... Off to the shed now thanks! :thumbup:
-
Today I finished up the flywheel, and drilled it 6mm.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/70c7ff50.jpg)
It took a bit of fretting to get it onto the crank, once it was on there I glued it In place. And left it for a while.
Then I assembled everything and gave it a polish;
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/4150a1ec.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/03bbe45d.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/37cb1284.jpg)
We should have a runner next weekend I think! Just the pipe work to do now.
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That looks terrific Ross! :bugeye:
Blummin well done! :clap: :clap:
Looking forward to the all action video...... :thumbup:
David D
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Ross,
Very smart indeed, :thumbup: :clap: very nice
Turned out really great - well done :bow:
:beer:
DaveH
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Ross,
Coming along very niecly :clap: :clap:
Looking forward to some video of it running :drool: :drool:
John
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Just an update guys,
I rigged her up to one if my steam engine boilers,
And she is having a bit of trouble turning over, it seems there is a tight spot near bottom dead centre, I've cleaned the piston and cylinder and I've had no luck.
Ideally I'd want to rig it up to a compressor an run it in but I don't have one, it's on the 'to get' list.
I'm off on holiday next Monday and I start a new job straight after, so I'm wondering if any of you guys have any advice you could give me to get her going?
Thanks
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Is there a garage nearby, with air for tyres Ross? :scratch:
Or, borrow Dad's spare tyre.
Take the hose and valve connector from his old footpump, and adapt as an air reservoir.......
Doesn't Dad have one of those electric, tyre/ airbed inflators?
Handy things, Dads. Often! :D
Good luck, with engine, holiday, and job, Mate........ :thumbup:
Defor.
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Ross,
Out of interest, have you tried connecting the steam to the other port and running in the opposite direction? It may be better one way than the other and because you've made 2 air connectors you have that luxury!
Also, your ports looks slightly different heights, you may need to elongate the port hole on the cylinder slightly up and/or down so they line up properly with the holes in the stand.
I've just skimmed back through your posts and a have a couple more questions - have you lapped the port faces of both cylinder and stand? If not, it's definitely worth doing.
Why did you only drill the air adaptors 2mm when the port dia. in the cylinder is 1/8" - more than 3mm? This will be restrictive as well as potentially causing a timing issue - don't think it will do the latter in this case but it's certainly better to have them matched.
Hope this helps.
Nick
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one thing I need a bit of advice on I'd the best way to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft.
I see I'm coming late to this, anyway this is an idea I like a lot:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=11471.msg125602#msg125602 (http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=11471.msg125602#msg125602)
It's easier to make when shafts are bigger, but worked also on the 6mm shaft of my #29.
Marcello
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Ross,
Out of interest, have you tried connecting the steam to the other port and running in the opposite direction? It may be better one way than the other and because you've made 2 air connectors you have that luxury!
Also, your ports looks slightly different heights, you may need to elongate the port hole on the cylinder slightly up and/or down so they line up properly with the holes in the stand.
I've just skimmed back through your posts and a have a couple more questions - have you lapped the port faces of both cylinder and stand? If not, it's definitely worth doing.
Why did you only drill the air adaptors 2mm when the port dia. in the cylinder is 1/8" - more than 3mm? This will be restrictive as well as potentially causing a timing issue - don't think it will do the latter in this case but it's certainly better to have them matched.
Hope this helps.
Nick
Hi Nick,
I haven't tried switching the ports, Something I'll try soon.
The ports being a different height Is a mistake I made, one of the ports is drilled diagonalu as I didn't endure the workpiece was flat in the vice. Where the hole meets the cylinder it lines up fine. If that makes sense.
I have not lapped the faces, something to try it is pretty free running part from the tight spot.
And that point s something I never thought of at the time, the port holes on the stad were drilled to 2mm as that was the I/D of the 1/8 pipe. Something to think about next time.
-
Also, just an update to those wondering. I've made an air raptor to fit onto the regulator and tried it with one of those electric car tyre pumps, it just hasn't got the lungs to sustain the pressure.
Can anyone recommend a mediumly priced small tanked compressor? I've been meaning to get one for ages and now seems the time.
-
Also, just an update to those wondering. I've made an air raptor to fit onto the regulator and tried it with one of those electric car tyre pumps, it just hasn't got the lungs to sustain the pressure.
Can anyone recommend a mediumly priced small tanked compressor? I've been meaning to get one for ages and now seems the time.
Hi Ross,
I have a small tankless compressor which is free for the asking if you're ever in the Stockport area.
:beer:
Phil.
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Also, just an update to those wondering. I've made an air raptor to fit onto the regulator and tried it with one of those electric car tyre pumps, it just hasn't got the lungs to sustain the pressure.
Can anyone recommend a mediumly priced small tanked compressor? I've been meaning to get one for ages and now seems the time.
Hi Ross,
I have a small tankless compressor which is free for the asking if you're ever in the Stockport area.
:beer:
Phil.
Thanks for the offer Phil, but I can't think I'll be in the area any time soon, but I'll keep you in mind if I know anyone that is going out that way.
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Phil, if you can't find a use or a more deserving home for it, I'd appreciate the compressor until such time as Ross finds someone who is coming up to our area and can act as courier for him.
Andy, in Sale.
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Phil, if you can't find a use or a more deserving home for it, I'd appreciate the compressor until such time as Ross finds someone who is coming up to our area and can act as courier for him.
Andy, in Sale.
Andy,
PM sent.
Cheers.
Phil.
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Will this do guys?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170870089449?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619#ht_1796wt_689
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Ross.
That will do all you need it to do. It will also blow up car tyres........ :thumbup:
My little twin, tankless presser, won't....... :(
David D
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Just an update,
I've ordered the compressor and got some bits and pieces to go with it. Ive covered my lathe in oil an a rust protection liquid in the summer as I won't be using it until I'm settled into working full time.
Should have a runner by next week (he says)
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very nice build. Iam also starting my first engine, and the video on centreing the piston block realy helpme, Ihave seen car inner tubes with a regulater valve used to give a good air supply ...just a thought
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I got the new air compressor up and running. and the engine is a runner!
It was a little stiff to start of with, it would move on anything under 3bar but now it happily ticks over on 1-1.5bar.
The flywheel has a bit of wobble, but I think that is due to the crankshaft not being totally straight. I'll make a new one later.
I'll keep running it in and give her a go on steam later.
Here are a couple of pictures and the video:
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/fdb5298c.jpg)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/steamboatwilly90/e70768b0.jpg)
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A RUNNER!! :D
Nicely done Ross! :clap: :clap:
I can see that grin from here....... :thumbup:
(Gave it a little tweak. Hope it's ok for you, now).
David D
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Fantastic stuff Ross, the feeling you get when you see your first engine running is immense, I remember it well and still get it now to be honest!
I don't think the flywheel is that bad at all, especially considering the design with 1 narrow bearing. Video's seem to accentuate these little wobbles anyway. If you want my advice, don't bother making anything new for this engine ... you might find it's no better ... move on to the next project!
:thumbup:
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Congratulations Ross! You've done very well. It's always great for us to see a first run on a first build!
Thanks much for posting your project for us. : )
-
Like girlfriends, you never forget your first completed engine.
Well documented build. Congratulations.
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Well done Ross, I enjoyed your post from start to finish. :thumbup:
Congrats on a great little engine :thumbup: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH