MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: PeterE on July 29, 2011, 01:07:37 PM
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One thing that is very useful on a lathe is a saddle stop, many has told me and finally I got around to do one. :beer:
Having studied several versions, more or less complicated, the following became my version.
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-01.jpg)
Fig 1: I guess you can see the resemblance with f ex Gadetbuilders version which I thought was compact and useful.
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-02.jpg)
Fig 2: The stop bar is the same size as my Dial Gauge when extreme care is necessary.
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-03.jpg)
Fig 3: This is how it looks off the lathe, I hope you can see the parts, if not ...
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-04.jpg)
Fig 4: ... here they are.
The main block has a milled recess for the clamping dog which also serves to guide the dog properly. The dog itself has a small heel to make sideways or bending forces less prominent on the main thumbscrew (the large one).
The stop bar is 8mm dia and is locked by a small cross-bar with a recess to fit the stop bar, if you understand how I mean.
All parts are either mild steel or brass.
A small but useful project I think.
BR
/Peter
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Very nice. Can't think of a more useful shop made lathe accessory.
Dick
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Nicely done
:beer:
DaveH
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Awesome! :thumbup: Got an extra? :clap:
Cheers
Chazz
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Nice job on that :thumbup: :thumbup:
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"That will do nicely"...... :thumbup:
Well done Peter! :clap: :clap:
David D
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Nicely done Pete :dremel: :clap: :clap: :clap:
One day i will get round to making one for my lathe :thumbup:
Rob
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Thank you very much all!
BR
/Peter
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Making the bar saddle stop gave me an idea for a helper when graduating. This version of the saddle stop uses much the same main block. Then a "star wheel" with three pegs is attached so that it can stop the saddle at three different distances (mine is set so that the "ones" peg is the longest, the "5s" peg is 1.5 mm shorter, and the 10s peg is 3 mm shorter than the 1s peg.
The following pic is in the middle of work:
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-05.jpg)
Here we can see the star wheel and the main block. Looking closer at the main block there are two holes in the block, one for attaching the star wheel and the other is for a "drill-tip-pointed" plunger that together with a small spring will give click stops for the star wheel.
To make it easier to visually separate the pegs, the 1-peg has one ring, the 5-peg has two rings, and the 10-peg has three rings. they are going to be red later on.
Fitting the star wheel to the block it looks as follows:
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-07.jpg)
... and from another angle.
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-06.jpg)
Now it only remins to see if this works :D
BR
/Peter
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Neat idea there Peter. :thumbup:
Bernd
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Hi Bernd,
Thank you! I have never seen one of these anywhere so it will be interesting to see how (well?) it works in the end.
Anyway, it is all done now and these are the parts:
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-08.jpg)
At the top we see the main block with its nut and washer, below that to the left the little spring and the plunger, then the lock dog with screw. To the right we see the hub of the star wheel seen from back with the drillmarks for click stopping, its center and fastening screw, and finally to the far right the small stubs with lock nuts.
As said earlier, the stubs have one, two or three rings to easily see which one is which.
Screwing it all toghether it looks like this on the bench:
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-09.jpg)
Quite compact I think. Although I could have used M5 for the stubs/pegs instead, that would have given me a bit better clearances.
Placing it on the lathe to check that all measurements was correct (and they were).
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-10.jpg)
I choose to use an ordinary nut for locking the thing on the lathe as I can get a little more clamping force using a wrench to secure it and know it does not move when graduating. The idea with the click stops work although they are a bit rough at the moment and really needs to be run in.
A final check with both saddle stops shows that there is a little difference in terms of how far from the bedway the centerline of the two stops are. This is calcualted as the final item - the micrometer stop - is not made yet and it will be placed on the saddle so that it gives a stop face for both clamp-on stops.
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-11.jpg)
Fun little project this, and so useful at the end!
BR
/Peter
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Another handy piece of hardware! :thumbup:
Well done Peter..... :clap: :clap:
David D
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Peter,
Not only usefull, but very nice. :clap: :thumbup:
Come to think ... I bit like me. :lol: :lol: :lol:
:beer:
DaveH
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Thanks a lot for cheering me on guys! :nrocks:
Makes it nice to show ones efforts!
As said, the next item built will be the micrometer stop pad.
BR
/Peter
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The last item is now nearly done! :D
The pic below shows the two parts of the micrometer stop.
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-12.jpg)
The right part is the outer piece with 40 divisions to give 0.025 mm/div like the other dials on the lathe. Inside the dial is a piece of an ordinary M6 screw (currently curing after fasting with Loctite). The end sticking out to the left will be turned down to make a flat "buffer" surface. The right part has an M6 threaded hole in and will get a fiducial line when I know where the thing stops against the saddle. The M6 screw at the right end is thus for fastening to the saddle.
Assembling the stop gives the following look:
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/SaddleStop-13.jpg)
The pic shows whereabouts the micrometer is intended to be placed and it will be placed so that both stops can use it.
I still have to stamp the numbers and to drill the fastening hole in the saddle, but that is going to be done when I make some upgrades to the apron and leadscrew and then have to take the saddle off the bed.
When graduating the dial I used my newly made tristar stop and it worked as intended. I have set the three pegs to give 1.5 mm difference in relation to each other.
The micrometer stop have a 15 mm-ish setting range and as said 0.025 mm/div.
This was my first attmept to graduate a dial and I regard it as a success! :D :D :D
BR
/Peter