MadModder
The Shop => Tools => Topic started by: DavidA on August 11, 2018, 03:56:19 PM
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Hi all,
long time since I posted anything, But here goes.
A week or so ago I was driving into town and passed a scrap collectors wagon. On the back was the band saw pictured below.
It didn't have a blade, and appears not to have been used for some time. A fiver changed hands and it was mine.
And it runs. Appears to be in generally good condition.
It has two speed ranges, and two options on each range, although the lowest speed of 160 ft/min may be a little fast for cutting steel. I think 80 fpm would be better. I can deal with that though.
The overall appearance, style of casing etc, is very similar to my DeWalt bandsaw.
But, as there is no makers name on the casing I can't be sure.
Anyone know who manufactured it ?
Dave.
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Picture not showing David :scratch:
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Oops, forgot the attachments; try again.
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Looks very much like a Naerok machine...
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John,
Thanks for the info.
It certainly appears to be a Nearok machine. and belts and blades are available.
I may make some new pullys to slow down the blade speed in the future. But for now it can be used as-is to cut aluminium and wood.
Dave. :thumbup:
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A couple of additional point.
Firstly I have Emailed Tony lathes for more info on the blades and rubber tires for the rollers.
As I was cleaning the saw down I noticed that, unlike most bandsaws, this one doesn't appear to have a support roller behind the blade to take up the thrust due to pushing the job into it.
It does have both rollers (one on one side above the table and one on the opposite side below it) and some kind of fibre blocks to keep the blade centred.
There doesn't appear to be any way to locate a roller behind the blade. Is this normal for the machine ?
Dave.
P.s. I mentioned the blade speed in Feet per Minute above. It should have been in Metres per Minute.
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Appropriate name for a manufacturer :Doh:
"Near-OK"
:doh: :D
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David this link is to the manual for the Clarke bandsaw its an identical machine.
https://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/woodworker/cbs355.pdf (https://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/woodworker/cbs355.pdf)
john
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David this link is to the manual for the Clarke bandsaw its an identical machine.
https://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/woodworker/cbs355.pdf (https://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/woodworker/cbs355.pdf)
john
How on earth did they get all those photos of me. They're very private.
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I ran a bandsaw like this for a few years, and while it had some problems I was able to do alot with it. My neighbour gave me a different small 2 wheeled bandsaw (PP230BDS) and I ended up chucking the 3 wheeled one, which I kind of regret. Even though it was starting to fall apart with the tyre wearing out.
The smaller wheels limit you to thinner blades, so they're not so great for ripping tall material. But they give it a way wider stance that lets you fit wider boards through it. I think that makes it a superior machine for a small bandsaw.
Also I was pleased to find out with the other small bandsaws they use the same blade diameters. Around 1500mm I think.
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Thanks for the replies. They have been very helpful.
Good to have that list of part numbers for the Clark machine.
John (Millwright), S Heslop,
Can you confirm that there was no support beating behind the blade ?
I was wondering why it doesn't push off the wheel when one is cutting.
Dave.
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I'm pretty sure mine had a bearing below the table too. Do you have any photos of that area?
I'd say a bearing there would be important too since the problem I was having towards the end of mine's life was it throwing the blades easily, since the tyre had worn, and I found the upper blade guide was a little on the flimsy side compared to the lower and I doubt the upper frame flexing would help keep the blade on.
There's probably alot I could've done to make it a better machine. One of the idle wheels was a little out of round and would've been simple to true up. But for years I kept thinking I was going to build a Matthias Wandel style bandsaw. But I suppose ironically the smaller bandsaw was fulfilling all my needs so I never got around to it.
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S Heslop,
I have just had a closer look at the PDF of the manual for the CBS 355. Page 12 shows a good view of the lower guide block.
It appears that the blade runs at a tangent on the face of the bearing. and the actual guides are the two fibre blocks. So the bearings are there to prevent the blade 'pushing back'.
Tomorrow (maybe Friday) I will go to Machine Mart in Bradford and see if they have a CBS 355 on display.
Maybe they will also have the tires.
I'll let you know the outcome.
Dave.
P.s. what does the 'S' stand for. Is it Stuart ? feels very formal referring to you as S Heslop all the time.
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When I got my s/h bandsaw, the seller proudly advised it had been 'setup' by 'an expert' and that it would need no adjustment to be perfect.
I found the 'expert' had decided that the bearings could not possibly be correct, bearing on the face, and had managed to adjust so they pressed on the side of the blade.
Along with the blunt blade, I'm not sure it could have cut through a piece of paper...
The seller was apologetic about the quirky 'tap handles' used instead of the 'proper' knobs.
Russ
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Well, I managed to order some rubber tires for the wheels. just over £8 each.
And then I made a boo boo. I also ordered a blade at the same time.
Not so bad itself, about £11 . But because it is a saw blade it has to be sent by Currier. And that costs £8.
It must be my monthly 'thick as a brick' day. I ordered it from Machine Mart.
I could have driven to Bradford in 15 minutes and collected it from there. Cost of two litres of Diesel.
Clearly age doesn't always make one wiser.
Dave, :doh:
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Parts arrived today. 15 days after ordering.
Not really good enough.
Dave.
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The new parts are fitted, and it runs well.
But.
I am interested in cutting mild steel, up to Bright Mild Steel.
Starrett suggest 50-65 Metre per minute.
The Clark manual for the CBS 355 has a lowest speed of 160 Metre/Minute.
More than three times the Starrett recommendation.
I would tend to go with Starrett.
What speed are you folks running your band saws at when cutting mild steel ?
Also, looking at the new tires, and the cost of them, I thought that they look very much like vacuum cleaner drive belts.
So I purchased one from our local washer and vac shop. for around £2.50. It is very slightly shorter than the correct part, but fits properly in the wheel groove.
I left it on and will be watching the wear rate compared with the correct tire.
Meanwhile, I cut my BMS with a hacksaw. No chance of exceeding the speed with that.
Dave.
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Interested in the vac cleaner tyre option. My vac uses a round belt so not familiar with what you mention. My Nearok has been out of action for years due to tyres decomposing. Do you have a make /part no for the vac belt?
It cuts way too fast for metal, you really want one of the "6x4" type for metal which use a worm gear to get the normal motor speed down low enough and oil might cause problems.
It doesn't really handle much more than an inch of softwood but I found it great for cutting 3/8 wide planks for model boat sheeting and when set up right will cut them to 1/16 even thickness.
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Beeshed,
I'll get you the part unmber off the belt tomorrow (Wednesday). I don't have a packet for it but the number is printed on the belt. I need to get a couple more anyway.
I'm considering building an intermidiary (Jackshaft) to go between the motor and the blade drive pully. As the motor does not drive the blade directly this should be fairly straightforward.
I think gearing it down by three to one should put the belt speed in the tight area.
I do have a horizontal (6*4) Clarke bandsaw that I am just finishing the construction of a new blade guide assembly for. Should be working tomorrow.
Dave.
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Beeshed,
The number on the belt is..
YMH28986
It's for a Vax Infinity Power Vision vac cleaner.
Here is the homespares link to it.
https://www.homespares.co.uk/Search/YMH28986
Hope this is useful.
As mentioned in my last post. I managed to get my 6*4 horizontal bandsaw running today. It runs well, but a slight alignment problem means I will have to undo a weld and re-position new blade guide.
Dave.
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Thanks David. Will order some and can make some more planks at last :clap:
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A related 'aside'.
Does anyone know if the ubiquitous '6*4 clarke bandsaw should have rubber tires ?
Mine doesn't, but the (cast iron) wheels seem in very good condition.
Dave.
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Mine certainly doesn't have tires.
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Thanks for that, Will.
Dave.