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91
Project Logs / Building a follow rest... twice
« Last post by WeldingRod on August 10, 2018, 11:01:45 PM »
Since folks here enjoy project logs, I thought I'd post one of mine that I happened to document well.

I've got a buddy that acquired a Hardinge TL10 in college; beautiful lathe, and he made a tailstock to match, as the original had gone walkabout.  Years later, he emails me and says that there is a TL10 on fleabay... in Houston!  I contacted the seller and headed over.  To my VAST surprise, the sign outside reads "Stark Industries". https://madmodder.net/Smileys/default/confused0068.gif Really!  I bought my lathe from Mr. Stark!  No, his first name wasn't Tony.  OH, well.

The TL10 is irritatingly short of documentation and the bits are rare and expensive.  Being a machine nut, I wanted two of the special bits: the taper attachement and the follow rest.  Someone on the Hardinge forum had posted a drawing of the follow rest, and I've seen pictures of a few different ones.  A key thing to keep in mind as you read this: when I started, I had never actually used a follow rest.

The drawing I had didn't actually agree with my lathe all that well, and it seemed to be designed to suit a lathe fitted with a lantern tool post (tool centerline through the compound centerline).  I thought about it a lot, and drew up a follow rest in Autocad.  A bit of fiddling and I ported the layouts to my 3D printer and made full scale models for fit testing.

I ended up deciding it should have TWO sets of fingers so I could support things near the chuck and near the tailstock.  The pieces were plasma cut from my models, and had tabs designed in to make it self-jigging.  I used lots of clamps and a magnetic chuck to get everything assembled for tacking.

Just an aside: a magnetic chuck is a HUGE help for welding and grinding; you can just drop plasma cut stuff on there, mag it down, and grind the dross off quickly!  Grinding welds and stuff is also much easier when the durn thing stays put.

92
Composites & Plastics / Re: Fursuit Partial Video
« Last post by WeldingRod on August 10, 2018, 09:40:26 PM »
You could use modern furby eyes with a colored filter over them.  They are round micro lcd displays with a backlight.  I bet you could change the backlight source to another color!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

93
Composites & Plastics / Re: Fursuit Partial Video
« Last post by WeldingRod on August 10, 2018, 09:38:00 PM »
It turns out that silicone is easy to bond!
Either use silicone caulk (if you want fully flexible) or rubber toughened superglue (loctite black max).  You MUST use a heptane based primer with copper Sulfate in it.  Allow the primer to dry, then glue it.
I had to do some measurements of silicone bonding strength on Aluminum, and I needed a way to attach the pull test dollies.  Worked like a charm, and the rubber would either come off of the plate I was testing, or it would tear the bulk rubber.  A superglue failure was really rare (just a couple in 50 or so tests).

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

94
Project Logs / Re: DIY tablet computer, maybe.
« Last post by nrml on August 10, 2018, 02:15:16 PM »
Very nice indeed :thumbup:.
95
The Design Shop / Re: Dust control for TCG and surface grinder
« Last post by PekkaNF on August 10, 2018, 12:15:35 PM »
Few more tests and results are still inconclusive. I have now two very different avenues under construction:

1. Low flow, high suction (shop vack) and for it I am trying to build optimized suction nozzle. I did not anticipate it to be that much work, but I took 45 degree angle, tilted, turned and when it looked right i marked and cut, then beat the other end square (1 hour on one evening) and tried to make bracket for it (2 hours another eveneing) still needs to weld it together.

2. High flow, low pressure system. Think of the cheapest & nastiest repurposed wood working dust extractor as a fan, body and boss for a big filter.

This would need a preseparator made out of steel. Any ideas?



https://woodgears.ca/reader/hector/shopvac.html

How would is scale for about 300 mm dia drum and 100 mm hose on inlet and same size pipe on outlet :scratch:

Pekka
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Project Logs / Re: DIY tablet computer, maybe.
« Last post by krv3000 on August 09, 2018, 05:46:20 PM »
nice
97
Project Logs / Re: DIY tablet computer, maybe.
« Last post by awemawson on August 09, 2018, 05:08:20 PM »
 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Project Logs / Re: DIY tablet computer, maybe.
« Last post by S. Heslop on August 09, 2018, 04:57:04 PM »
12 volt AC adapter arrived today. I'm glad 12 volt adapters seem to be fairly standard in connector size.


I got so excited I forgot how to draw.

It's a TN display so the viewing angle isn't great.


You can also see where the top isn't entirely flat and the tape hasn't stuck. I managed to get some swarf into the gap too when drilling a dimple to clear a screw and it's now a permanent feature. Other problems are a fair bit of latency which could be from the controller board. I suspected something like that might happen.

And finally the cursor is... perfectly aligned. I think i'd like it offset a bit to the upper left of the pen nib to compensate for parallax and so the pen isn't actually obscuring it. The Wacom drivers are surprisingly sparse in features so i'd probably need to do that through the waxbee config thing for the microcontroller, which has some baffling options.

It's weird but i've gotten fairly used to my non display pen tablet and i'd consider not having your hand blocking the image a huge advantage. I actually find that a bit of a hassle when drawing on paper too, not that I do it alot.

Seems like alotta complaints. I'm really excited it works but there's still alot to fuss with to get it finished. I didn't ever expect it to replace my regular tablet though and so far it seems ideal for what I want it for - inking. Despite the screen latency the pen is very responsive with a good pressure ramp (or whatever you'd call it) and no jitter. Most of the wobbles in that doodle were from my hand sticking to the glass. You can actually buy cotton gloves for your ring and little finger to prevent that. They're often coupled with the commercial pen displays.
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by modeng200023 on August 09, 2018, 03:04:05 PM »
If you go on improving the machine like this your friend will want it back!
100
New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by awemawson on August 09, 2018, 11:50:56 AM »
Will-D those two Berkshires are off on a one way journey early Monday so don't tell them !

At last today the heavy duty piano hinge arrived for the Tail stock Door, so a suitable length was cut off, I picked up the four tapped M6 holes in he door frame and drilled matching 6 mm ones in one leaf of the hinge. When I'd checked that they aligned OK, I opened the hinge holes to 8.5 mm to get latitude for adjustment when the door is swung.

After a test fitting of hinge and door balanced together in the frame, I then spot welded the un-drilled leaf of the hinge to the door, gave it all a good clean up with IPA, and sprayed the inside RAL9001 to match the machine.

The weather is distinctly cooler and it's raining today, so although the paint was 'touch dry' after an hour I left it a couple of hours more before inverting it to spray the outside.

The Postman brought the replacement lathe tool that I had wrongly ordered as a 20 mm shank rather than the 25 mm that I'd intended - so when I'm brave I can start tooling up.

Today I've spent quite a bit of time investigating how to position the main spindle to a known angle. There seem to be two 'M' codes involved. 'M20' that enables the spindle drive, and 'M19 S<angle>' that orients the spindle to the required angle. I have example programs showing me how it works but it doesn't  :bang:

I even called up the chap who used to use this lathe to confirm that the lathe has the capability, which he confirmed, there must be some parameter or setting needed to enable it I reckon  :scratch:

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