Recent Posts

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Project Logs / Re: Mini mill Stand SX2 Plus
« Last post by Brass_Machine on October 18, 2018, 10:32:43 PM »
Looks good. There is a huge thread over at cnczone about using an epoxy/granite mix as fill...

Eric
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The Water Cooler / Leveling spot for new small shop.
« Last post by Doc on October 18, 2018, 08:30:03 PM »
My wife out helping move dirt and level out a spot for a small electric repair shop I'm planning.
It will be for repairing alternators, generators (auto type) starters  and some types of motors.


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Project Logs / Re: Sheet Metal Brake and 3d Printer.
« Last post by S. Heslop on October 18, 2018, 06:14:07 PM »
D'oh!  I forgot the attachments are on top!  Yeah, you want the top level!

The bottom plate is for the z zero prox.  I'll take a pic tonight.

Mine has been cranking on a print for two days straight, after the first 36 hour print finished...  full scale, here I come!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

I'm really dreading those multi-day prints. I was dreading them already but reading about electrical fires from all the strange high amperage Chinese boards made it worse!


Got two of them drag chains in. Of course they gotta come back out for me to have any hope of getting the cables through. I'll probably tie them to a thin steel rod and drop that through.



One to go. Just figured out where i'm gonna squeeze it. The machine is oriented as is for easier access to the interesting parts, and I figured i'd have it rotated 90 degrees in the end since that Y bar gets in the way. But I neglected to notice till now that the belts also get in the way. So as it is is probably the best orientation for easy access to the parts.

It's also interesting, to me at least, that the end pieces of this cheap drag chain is more what I anticipated - but the chain itself is made from a very tough glass filled plastic.


Finally, I need to consider how i'm going to house the electronics. I could slide a board into the upper groove on the base extrusions, and have a compartment isolated from a potential heated chamber in the future. But that won't give easy access to the electronics. And speaking of fires...

Maybe I could put a board in that groove, but also stand the whole thing on some 50mm tall stilts, then mount all the electronics to a tray that can drop and slide out.


Anyways either way, hopefully tomorrow i'll have it wired up and ready to blow some stepper drivers!
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Tools / Re: Face mill Cutter Indexable advice
« Last post by chipenter on October 18, 2018, 05:10:53 PM »
Those index inserts can go pretty quick and not sustain damage , for finishing they are hard to beat if the tramming  is good .
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Tools / Face mill Cutter Indexable advice
« Last post by Buell on October 18, 2018, 04:55:38 PM »
I have a Sieg sx2  Mill and was Thinking about an Index head face cutter Now its an R8 fitting and have found a 50mm version I think its Like a Shell mill possibly, but don't quote me ! Now heres the thing..I just would like to skim pass Steel and ali etc. to clean up and make faces square and presentable....so its 50mm diameter is that tooo big for this mill and abilities or is it just super slow and min depth cut ?
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Project Logs / Mini mill Stand SX2 Plus
« Last post by Buell on October 18, 2018, 04:45:38 PM »
Heres a few Pics of a Mill stand I have been Making.. Made out Of 100x100 fence post I found at the side of the road ! and some 1/2 " plate I got for cheap as the base. Side cheeks are 10mm i think so pretty beefy.

So my idea was to give some more mass and to try and stop some of the flex in the Head to the base. Also so i could tram the head to the base i put a couple of bolts in the top of the column ...One tapped in and one to push the column away. My thought was to aide in adjustment...works a treat. My only concern is if there is any twist in dovetails on the head.

Its a lot better having tried it today ..just wondering if i should fill it with some dense material.
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Introductions / Re: Hello Mad Modders from Merseyside UK
« Last post by paulc1 on October 18, 2018, 03:12:59 PM »
Hahaha, Pekka that is very true but fortunately for me my wife understands that I like tools just as much as i understand that she likes shoes and handbags :)
its a truce unless its a big purchase then she does not have to know, unless I need her to help me to get it off my van and into my shed, then there is no hiding it lolol.
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Tools / Re: Laser / IR thermometer.
« Last post by ddmckee54 on October 18, 2018, 12:03:43 PM »
I got a $39.95 Harbor Freight special laser guided IR temperature probe.  It'll do everything you want to do, except the last thing you want to do.  The temperature is within it's range, but it absolutely hates shiny surfaces.

I can't get even a decent temperature reading off the extruder heater block for my 3D printer.  It's less than 250° C but it's nice shiny aluminum.  I can get a read off the aluminum print bed, but only where I've got it covered with blue painter's tape.

For your lead furnace you'd be better off building a pyrometer.  There's several ideas here:
http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showthread.php?10142-Pyrometers—&highlight=pyrometer+build

Hope this helps,
Don
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by awemawson on October 18, 2018, 10:19:24 AM »
Farnell, good to their word, delivered the alternative MAX3232 PCB - the 'Sparkfun BOB-11189. So grabbing the soldering iron I quickly connected it up to a female 9 pin-D-Type and set the Logic SALE-AE analyser. Sure enough we can now go on line to the 820T and listen to BOTH sides of the conversation.

No time at the moment to go into it much deeper, but here is my first screen shot showing the transmission from the STEP5 port and the response from the 820T controller - need a bit of quiet time to dig into it further.
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How do I?? / Re: Sizing Dro Scales on Sieg sx2 Plus
« Last post by Will_D on October 18, 2018, 09:27:15 AM »
Here's a link to my thread about fitting DRO to my SX2P:

https://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,10428.0.html

HTH Will
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