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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by cnc-it on Today at 05:30:59 AM »
I wonder if Baruffaldi has a part you could modify with the teeth already machined..it's a curvic coupling..these are hardened and ground to micron tolerance usually..larger ones are used on 4th axis horizontal machine centers to locate the pallets. Any slop would cause wear over time hence the need for a precision fit?
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The Design Shop / Re: winding a paper core - making a centre on which to wind it
« Last post by JerryNotts on Today at 04:00:02 AM »
I already have a supply and stock of kraft sufficient for a few hundred small cores such as these. In any case there are several alternative ways of supplying the paper; buy wide rolls of kraft from ebay  and run through my Titan slitter to bring to size or as a last resort use till roles, most of these seem to be about 2" wide. On this scale cost is not significant.

Your location is not shewn on your posting but I imagine you are not in the UK. Before I retired we used to use about 300 per day of cores a little over a metre wide to fit 4" cones and found it OK to buy them in India.

Jerry
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by Pete. on Today at 01:58:22 AM »
Surely you could wire EDM the sides but I don't see how you could do the bottom.
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by chipenter on Today at 01:42:36 AM »
Tilt the rotab over 12.5 degrees and use a slitting saw  .
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by AdeV on November 17, 2018, 07:11:04 PM »
Quote from: WeldingRod on November 17, 2018, 06:55:58 PM
I really wonder how it was made!

I'd bet they're die cast. Not sure if they're machined afterwards, it would seem unnecessary, as the actual part-to-part wear would be minimal, since the parts aren't moving against each other once engaged; and having a super-precision fit isn't necessary.
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by WeldingRod on November 17, 2018, 06:55:58 PM »
Can you post a picture of the mating end?  I really wonder how it was made!
You could clearly 3d metal print them, probably under $100 each.  Ideally key them to a stub shaft to save print volume and $$

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by nrml on November 17, 2018, 05:33:24 PM »
Can't you cast one in bronze or brass from a 3d print and do the fettle to final fit on manual machines and hand tools?
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by awemawson on November 17, 2018, 04:18:00 PM »
I'm tempted to make a 'D-Bit' to a 12.5 degree taper. The real problem is that the 'root' of the gash at the inner (narrow) end is only 2 mm wide, so any cutter will be fairly delicate.

The alternative but slightly more complicated way is to make a tapered slitting saw which would be more robust.

As a compromise I could make the protrusions slightly shorter radially thus increasing the gash root width.

. . . all suggestions welcome  :clap:

. . . of course a 3D printer that prints in Bronze would work nicely  :ddb:
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CNC / Re: DDCSV1.1 4 Axis controller
« Last post by Benedikt on November 17, 2018, 03:58:25 PM »
Quote from: Avis on November 17, 2018, 03:13:43 PM
Hello, I have the driver DDCSV1.1 4-axis version. If I update with pandorainstaller to the latest version of the manufacturer, do I keep all the axes?
Thank you
Yes, since both hardware and software are the same for both devices. They are locked down in software, basically. The setting is preserved.
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by AdeV on November 17, 2018, 03:17:50 PM »
Quote from: awemawson on November 17, 2018, 03:05:03 PM
Next task is to work out how to make a metal one. The teeth have a 12.5 degree taper when in lies the machining problem.

Two options spring to mind:

1) Tapered end-mills.... if you can get one with the right taper.
2) Do it on a manual machine with a rotary table, and have the head tipped over by the correct angle.

3) Mill the bulk of it with straight sides, then use a die eroder to make the tapers (if they can do that sort of thing?)

I'll stop there before someone does a Spanish Inquisition joke...
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