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1
CNC / Re: Ender 3 - General discussion
« Last post by Brass_Machine on Today at 08:45:04 AM »
You can print bowden tube clips

Bowden tube clips

Eric
2
CNC / Re: Ender 3 - General discussion
« Last post by AdeV on Today at 08:12:32 AM »
...
Try the move axis/extrude several mm or more and no the extruder just pushes and then filament springs back with a click.

Switch off, switch on, reset bed and extruder and guess what filaments flows no problem!

First, have you put on those little clips which hold the "push fit" mechanism solid on the bowden tube? They look exactly like the clips you put on push-fit plumbing to make sure any accidental pipe movement doesn't trigger the release. I'll find a picture tonight, I'm on a train right now and it's enough of an effort just to type...

The other thing I wonder - was your extruder actually up to temperature, or was it just lying about it?

One way to check is to release the extruder drive with the lever, then try to push the filament yourself. It should be possible, with relatively little effort, to extrude a string of plastic. If that isn't happening, you've got a mechanical cloggage somewhere.
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New from Old / Re: Yet another Beaver resurection (TC20F)
« Last post by JeffK on Today at 06:13:38 AM »
Thanks Andrew  :thumbup:
4
New from Old / Re: Yet another Beaver resurection (TC20F)
« Last post by awemawson on Today at 04:43:28 AM »
s/h Tektronix scope off eBay  They are robust and professional. You don't need a particularly high spec one.
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New from Old / Re: Yet another Beaver resurection (TC20F)
« Last post by JeffK on Today at 04:33:27 AM »
You may be right but I wondered if just disconnecting the encoder could create an issue? May have to go out and buy a scope to check it with as I don't have such a beast. Got by over the last few months with a simple multimeter (believe it or not!!). The thing that confuses me is why everything worked ok before I disconnected the encoder but now doesn't. If I had inadvertantly broken a wire or something in the connector surely MDI would not work? Unless I am unlucky enough to have damaged the actual encoder (I was pretty careful with it). Any recommendations for a decent scope?

cheers

Jeff
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New from Old / Re: Yet another Beaver resurection (TC20F)
« Last post by awemawson on Today at 03:38:18 AM »
Bad luck Jeff. Mines a Siemens control unlike your Fanuc, but I seem to remember that the encoder has an index pulse once per rev as well as the quadratue A & B pulses. Could it perhaps be missing.

A ‘scope job I think.
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New from Old / Re: Yet another Beaver resurection (TC20F)
« Last post by JeffK on January 28, 2020, 11:07:44 PM »
Well I guess its been a while since I last posted,,,, been busily :D making parts with the Beaver  :D I finally discarded FAPT and figured out how to program the machine without it. Apart from a few issues with tooling and getting feeds and speeds right all was going really well with until the CRT went 'Ping'. I managed to source a replacement LCD monitor at a cosy and everything went back to normal.
Then the other day I was trying to cut an acme thread. I had done this before and had the program I had used previously successfully so was a bit puzzled when the end product was more like a series of razor blades than a nice square acme profile :scratch:
I tried a few things, bought a new insert holder etc but to no avail. Finally figured out the spindle encoder was slipping :Doh:
To retrieve the missing grub screw that held the encoder shaft in place I had to disconnect the encoder and pull the whole drive wheel off. Retrieved and re-secures all of the bits and all seemed to be well except now when I use MDI mode the feed works perfectly but when running a program the machine stalls on the first line where there is a feed command - even on programs which worked perfectly before.
eg. If I enter G01Z-3F0.01; in IPR feed mode in MDI it will work fine but if I enter the same line in a program the program stalls at this line and will not execute the command.

I am pretty sure disconnecting the encoder has messed something up either in the spindle synchronisation or just with the parameters - the question is what?  :scratch:

Any ideas would be most welcome as this one has had me stumped for days and despite reading manuals etc I have not come up with anything useful yet.

cheers

Jeff
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CNC / Re: Ender 3 - General discussion
« Last post by WeldingRod on January 28, 2020, 10:06:11 PM »
In some bowden/hot end chains there is a ledge.  If the filament gets hung up on it you get thy he behaviour described.  Pulling back and re-stabbing can fix it.  Pulling all the way out, cutting at and angle, and trying again is another good tactic!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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CNC / Re: Ender 3 - General discussion
« Last post by Brass_Machine on January 28, 2020, 09:43:27 PM »
....
One final question:
Why is it considered a major upgrade to fit a "Swiss all metal hot end" for 70£ or so when the one supplied is all metal (ok aluminium as against titanium)
...

As I understand it... An all metal hotend allows you to print in more than just PLA & ABS. I know the stock one can handle PETG as well.

The reasoning... the Bowden tube butts against the hotend and can only handle so much heat before it deforms and melts. With an all metal hot end, the bowden tube butts against the cold side and not the hot.

I have an all metal hotend in my Ender3 and it works very well.

Eric
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Project Logs / Re: Diy optical pickup for guitar -- is it possible?
« Last post by sorveltaja on January 28, 2020, 07:56:23 PM »
Sketch for a new setup for the optoswitch components:



Model of the optoswitch is H21A2 by Isocom. Components came out easily, by pulling the 'lid' open with a sharp chisel, without even breaking their housing:



Sender and receiver were push-fitted in place(perhaps some glue also needs to be used). One with yellow dot is the ir-led, while the one with red dot is a phototransistor. Printed part on the left is a testpiece of the to-be-printed base, to test the tolerances and height adjustment. So far it has gone well, and (hopefully)shouldn't take too long to get back to 'test-bench'.

It may need some modifications to fit the wirings, though. The concept will probably be same, as with previous setup, where the sender's wires come out from one side, and receiver's wires from the other side.

The components work, as expected. The physical specs of those flat components aren't usually mentioned in the optoswitches datasheets.
Although they can be simply measured, in some cases it could be better to see the actual manufacturers spefifications, and tolerances.

Sparkfun has datasheets of Liteon's LTR-301 phototransistor, and LTE-302 photodiode available on their site, as well as downloadable 3d-models, if memory serves. But generally all of those seem to be the same size, after all.







 
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