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One or two people have managed to fry themselves playing with Lichtenberg patterning. I think it's usual to use a microwave oven transformer for the process. That's 2kV with a fair few milliamps behind it. More than enough to be lethal if you treat it with contempt  :zap:
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Project Logs / Re: Boring Attachments for the New Lathe
« Last post by Kjelle on Today at 02:55:32 AM »
I'll be following along... This is interesting!

Kjelle
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Project Logs / Boring Attachments for the New Lathe
« Last post by vtsteam on Today at 12:09:23 AM »
I have in mind some engine building with my new lathe. Actually that was the original reason for building it (uh if I remember that 5 years ago). I am thinking now about a long cherished project requiring boring a cylinder of about 4" dia by 7" long. For anything smaller I could just have made a boring bar to run between centers, but for a 7" long cylinder, I need maybe 16" of carriage travel on what is a 12" lathe. That's 12" between centers, with the tailstock in place.

If I remove the tailstock, I'll have sufficient travel, so I'm thinking about bolting a vertical arm into the end of the lathe shears. Those shears are two  solid 3/4" x 4" vertical steel members. This arm would carry the boring bar thrust bearing. 

For the arm, I'm thinking probably a 3/4" thick Zamak casting. I could probably do it with a 3/4" rectangular steel plate....... but, nah, it would be boxy looking and I think I could do a nicer shape with a casting. I don't have a cnc plasma cutter for fancy shapes.......well, nor any 3/4" steel plate. I do have the zinc, and wood for pattern making and a foundry furnace ready for a pour. Guess that settles that.

My lathe's center height is just a little more than 4-1/2" so the arm wouldn't need to be be very tall.  Probably I'd slot it for mounting the bearing to allow vertical adjustment. I'll probably indicate the boring bar in before use. I'm expecting infrequent need for this rig, so adjusting the initial setup won't be a big pain. I could even make a gauge for that.

Not quite sure what to use for a bearing -- maybe just a plain sleeve or oilite bearing, I guess, since again, there will be infrequent use, and the attachment will probably kick around in a drawer for long periods. Fancier bearings might suffer there. I don't imagine there's going to be a lot of plain bearing wear.

I dunno, that's the idea, anyway.
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Lichtenberg figure......I had to look that one up.  :beer:
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Today I sanded the the guitar body, to even out the bumps and such. There isn't much to look at it at the moment. As it will have a satin/matte top coat(s), small irregularities don't matter that much to me.

In the meantime, I also took a look if the roller nut, at it's current position, causes 'out of tune' -phenomena. Indeed it does. It's clearly audible on thinner strings, so I didn't even bother to measure it.

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Again, about the body finishing. I just found out the exact kind of a patterns, that I was originally after. It's called Lichtenberg-effect. Especially, when burned in wood.

It's highly unlikely, that I would attempt to follow that road. At first, there are high voltages involved(as far, as I know). Then, the resulting smoke alone would be a prohibitive factor, if one lives in the apartment.

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There might be slower, low-voltage methods, like using the exciter to produce tiny, hot plasma stream. In practice, it makes similar patterns(depends on the wood used), although in smaller scale.

Too much hassle, I should know by now. But still, if anything usable appears by that, I'll use it for the pickguard. Otherwise it'll have a plain colour.   
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Radio Control Models / Re: Another Bruder conversion
« Last post by ddmckee54 on December 02, 2020, 04:36:53 PM »
OK, everybody...  Hold your thumb and index-finger as close together as you possibly can without them actually touching.  Now in your very best Maxwell Smart voice say "Missed it by THAT much!"  That's how close I came to actually being able to run the prototype last night.

I got the DOA motor replaced and rotation verified - it actually does turn now when I tell it to.

I got all the motors installed and verified that they were all turning in the proper direction.  When I give it the giddyap signal, they all giddyap in the same direction with nobody marching to a different drummer.

When I turn the wheel on the transmitter the front wheels turn in the expected direction.  I don't have as much steering travel as I'd like, but without carving great big hunks out of the body more travel is just not possible.  Besides, this isn't really a rock-crawler, it's just drawn that way.

I got the wiring completed and the body reinstalled, everything is now residing in its' new permanent home.

I got the new battery support plate printed and installed.  The battery is hiding under the hood, bonnet if you're from
THAT side of the pond.  And the hood still snaps shut, just like it's supposed to do.

From the outside the only difference that is noticeable between my prototype and the original toy, is the four M3 button head bolts in each wheel - and they aren't THAT obvious.

The only thing I didn't get done before I went to bed last night was putting the wheels back on.  I'll do that tonight, then we'll see how the dog reacts to an invader on his turf.

Don
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Project Logs / Re: Building a New Lathe
« Last post by awemawson on December 02, 2020, 11:47:50 AM »
It's a well known fact that in a home workshop, where virtually all parts are prototypes, the fact that the first (..second  ...maybe third !) isn't quite right is a HUGE benefit as otherwise the scrap bin (parts bin) would be empty. A bin of odds and sods from previous project is (I find) a big prompt to the imagination when working out how to make things.
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Project Logs / Re: Building a New Lathe
« Last post by vtsteam on December 02, 2020, 09:07:12 AM »
Thanks, Andrew  :beer:. Maybe someone reading this thread and intending to build  a lathe will benefit from the mistakes I made.

Actually, if you're building a Gingery lathe the same thing applies, as my new lathe uses the same style halfnut and dog. And actually even more generally, if you are building anything where you need to engage a dog in a filed notch, that is in a blind location, this might be helpful as a setup procedure.

I should also add that because on my lathe (and the Gingery lathe) everything IS mounted blind behind the mounted apron, but must exactly line up with the leadscrew, and yield a detent in the exact right position, there is one additional way to ease the task of parts placement. Also it's something I learned only in correcting the carriage yesterday after two lathe builds where I had struggled with locations.

With the apron off the lathe, just engage a short (say, foot long) length of leadscrew stock in the halfnut. This is easy to set straight and parallel and to check for alignment, and also sets the proper position for the detent. Sure beats trying to do that with hidden face measurements, (and guesswork) while the apron is mounted on the lathe, and filing and testing, repeated removal and remounting, etc. Another one of those, "duh, why didn't I think of that before," moments.  :loco:
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CNC / Re: New 3D printer
« Last post by MetalMagus on December 02, 2020, 06:59:04 AM »
I've started printing some of the parts. But, that's as far as I have got. Life and other projects keep getting in the way. But I follow the FB group and will get back around to it soon.

Cheers

Sean
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Project Logs / Re: Building a New Lathe
« Last post by awemawson on December 02, 2020, 02:47:53 AM »
Well Steve, when you start your production run of small lathes you can write it into the operations procedure  :clap:
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