21
Announcements & Issues / Re: Security Warning
« Last post by ozzie46 on May 25, 2026, 06:54:20 AM »yes i am getting it also.
Ron
Ron
Recent Posts
22
Announcements & Issues / Re: Security Warning
« Last post by pycoed on May 25, 2026, 03:49:53 AM »Is anyone else getting the Security warning issues again? Last few days it's popping up again for me (Ubuntu22/Brave 1.90.124)
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Member Videos / Retrol SE-03 Steam Engine Plant & GF-01 Miniature Workshop
« Last post by Jim Dobson on May 21, 2026, 10:44:34 PM »Retrol SE-03 Steam Engine Plant & GF-01 Miniature Workshop working under live steam and drilling some wood.
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CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on May 20, 2026, 01:18:57 AM »Well...
Progress on this thread was slow enough already, but starting tomorrow it'll get even slower. Tomorrow work on my new garage starts, or at least the demolition of the deck where the new garage will be located starts tomorrow. It's going to be a busy summer.
Progress on this thread was slow enough already, but starting tomorrow it'll get even slower. Tomorrow work on my new garage starts, or at least the demolition of the deck where the new garage will be located starts tomorrow. It's going to be a busy summer.
25
CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on May 17, 2026, 11:28:58 PM »I went around the base leveling feet a couple more times, to get things dialed in. All the while wondering if this was a gigantic waste of tine. The more I dug into it, the wonkier the base was looking.
I thought the bottom side of my base was flat, but it's actually concave, in both the E-W and the N-S directions. The bottom of the sides are fairly flat compared to the center. And tops of the East, South, and West sides are fairly flat. The top of the North side has a noticeable hump in it. The base itself is not a consistent thickness. The West side is 0.2mm thicker on the North side than it is on the South, the East side has a similar taper. The South side is 0.2mm thicker on the East side than it is on the West. The North side is 0.2mm thicker on the East side than it is on the West. Which makes the NE corner 0.4mm thicker than the SW corner.
Just for shits and giggles I got out the float glass plate and my 1-2-3 blocks to check if the side frames were level. N-S they were level, but E-W they were not. That required 3 pieces of paper under the West leveling feet as shims. Tomorrow I cut some shims for under the West frame mounting standoff and fix that problem. From here on, everything will be aligned to the side frames - in some way.
It was my intent all along to have the base sitting flat on the bench, probably on a rubber mat for sound deadening. After I get things aligned: the X axis, the Y axis, and the bed - I plan on putting a 1-2-3 block under each corner of the base and see if any thing changes in the alignment. That'll tell me if I can go back to Plan A, or if I need to tolerate that gap under the base and everything that is going to wind up hiding in there.
I thought the bottom side of my base was flat, but it's actually concave, in both the E-W and the N-S directions. The bottom of the sides are fairly flat compared to the center. And tops of the East, South, and West sides are fairly flat. The top of the North side has a noticeable hump in it. The base itself is not a consistent thickness. The West side is 0.2mm thicker on the North side than it is on the South, the East side has a similar taper. The South side is 0.2mm thicker on the East side than it is on the West. The North side is 0.2mm thicker on the East side than it is on the West. Which makes the NE corner 0.4mm thicker than the SW corner.
Just for shits and giggles I got out the float glass plate and my 1-2-3 blocks to check if the side frames were level. N-S they were level, but E-W they were not. That required 3 pieces of paper under the West leveling feet as shims. Tomorrow I cut some shims for under the West frame mounting standoff and fix that problem. From here on, everything will be aligned to the side frames - in some way.
It was my intent all along to have the base sitting flat on the bench, probably on a rubber mat for sound deadening. After I get things aligned: the X axis, the Y axis, and the bed - I plan on putting a 1-2-3 block under each corner of the base and see if any thing changes in the alignment. That'll tell me if I can go back to Plan A, or if I need to tolerate that gap under the base and everything that is going to wind up hiding in there.
26
Member Videos / Retrol GF-01 Miniature Workshop DIY Kit Build
« Last post by Jim Dobson on May 16, 2026, 08:22:29 PM »Retrol GF-01 Miniature Workshop DIY Kit Build
This was a fun build and the quality of the components are just superb
This was a fun build and the quality of the components are just superb
27
CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on May 16, 2026, 10:16:06 AM »A couple of days ago I got the leveling feet I ordered, I got them installed and started leveling the base.
Having never used a precision level before, I just plunked it down on the base and started adjusting the leveling feet. This particular model of level has 2 bubble vials, a large vial on the long axis of the level, and a much smaller vial across the body of the level. I EVENTUALLY realized that you need to get the bubble centered in the cross via BEFORE you attempt to center the bubble in the main vial. It makes a BIG difference in how that bubble reacts. That's why you see the level sitting of a piece of paper in the above photo.
Last night I went around the base several times with the precision level, it's as level as it's going to get. I thought that I had leveled the base of the workbench when I installed it almost 20 years ago, if so - I did a really crappy job of it. The base of the machine is about 400mm x 600mm. from the NW corner to the SE corner of the base there's a 6-8mm difference in length of the adjusting stud. The workbench top is flat, it's just not level. Eventually I got the base close enough to level that the paper shim was no longer needed to have the cross vial's bubble be centered, I could just set the level directly on the base.
Next I check the to see that the frame is level, and then it'll be on to the X axis rails.
Having never used a precision level before, I just plunked it down on the base and started adjusting the leveling feet. This particular model of level has 2 bubble vials, a large vial on the long axis of the level, and a much smaller vial across the body of the level. I EVENTUALLY realized that you need to get the bubble centered in the cross via BEFORE you attempt to center the bubble in the main vial. It makes a BIG difference in how that bubble reacts. That's why you see the level sitting of a piece of paper in the above photo.
Last night I went around the base several times with the precision level, it's as level as it's going to get. I thought that I had leveled the base of the workbench when I installed it almost 20 years ago, if so - I did a really crappy job of it. The base of the machine is about 400mm x 600mm. from the NW corner to the SE corner of the base there's a 6-8mm difference in length of the adjusting stud. The workbench top is flat, it's just not level. Eventually I got the base close enough to level that the paper shim was no longer needed to have the cross vial's bubble be centered, I could just set the level directly on the base.
Next I check the to see that the frame is level, and then it'll be on to the X axis rails.
28
Wood & Stuff / Re: Quick and Dirty Router Sled
« Last post by RussellT on May 15, 2026, 03:04:39 PM »Steve, Tom
I'm glad you liked it.
Russell
I'm glad you liked it.
Russell
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Wood & Stuff / Re: Quick and Dirty Router Sled
« Last post by tom osselton on May 14, 2026, 04:22:41 PM » That?s almost cheating!30
Wood & Stuff / Re: Quick and Dirty Router Sled
« Last post by vtsteam on May 14, 2026, 12:38:14 PM »I like it! 