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1
Gallery / Re: DIY dial test indicator holder
« Last post by celsoari on Today at 04:56:44 PM »
 
They have been reading MadModder!

its true   :lol: :lol:
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Project Logs / Re: 3D printer build log
« Last post by spuddevans on Today at 04:33:46 PM »
Well, it's amazing how life can get in the way of building a 3D printer!!!

So after quite a looooong break from this project, I've been getting back into this again. There's not a huge amount to show from the last few weeks, but I've been getting a few small items ticked off the "to-do" list.

Here's a shot of where I'm up to at the moment, I've been working on the Z-axis which is based on 3 leadscrews coupled with some 8mm smooth rods. This is a poor semi-overhead view


I made a frame consisting of an upper and lower sections of 25mm box steel, well actually I made 2 frames, one for the front and one frame for the back, and these are where the Z-axis guide rods and leadscrews will be held in.

The leadscrews have been turned down to 8mm at their ends where they go into the 25mm box-section steel, and for each leadscrew there are 2 flange-bearings (countersunk one each on the top and bottom sides of the box-section) which keeps them running smoothly, and the 40t pulleys are also 8mm bore.

I very precisely drilled and bored the 25mm box-section frames for each set of holes (for each front carriage there is one guide rod exactly 25mm centres from the leadscrew, for the rear carriage there was 2 guide rods, both exactly 25mm centres from a central leadscrew). There are 2 lengths of 25mm box section in each frame, one set for the rear, and one set for the front. Each set were drilled and bored together to ensure alignment was kept accurate.
The 25mm box-section frames were carefully milled to length to be a precise, snug fit into the main printer frame, and thus they only need a M4 screw at each end to hold them in place. (they actually hold themselves in place without the screws, but the screws make sure that when everything is moving and warmed up, nothing will move)

The Z-axis carriages are milled out of aluminium bar, here's a shot of one of the front 2 carriages taken from below (the other 2 holes are drilled and tapped for mounting the leadscrew-nut, but as it's in-progress it's not worth putting them in as they'll be dis-assembled and re-assembled a good few times before the whole thing is done)


and from above;




And the rear central Z carriage with 2 guide-rods (2 are not strictly needed, but they turned out to be useful for holding bearings for guiding the belt) from below, showing the 2 Igus bearings (held in a blind pocket) and the leadscrew nut.


and from above;


You can see on that pic the "T" piece that links all 3 Z-axis carriages, and also you can see the present fixing arrangement (a M4 screw attaching it to the carriages thru a slot in the "T" piece). This is going to be changed as I have an idea to incorporate the bed levelling into this mounting.


This is a shot of the routing of the Z-axis belt around the rear central carriage leadscrew and guide-rods. I wanted to make sure that the belt had >90 degrees of contact on each of the pulleys driving the leadscrews, so you can see that the 2 guide-rods were very handy to pop a couple of bearings on to help "wrap" and guide the belt around the 40t pulley


A wider view showing the belt-tensioning device



And a close-up view of the Z stepper mount;




Here's a closer shot of how the belt routes around one of the front leadscrews and guide-rod;



The leadscrews are 2mm pitch, and they are driven by 40t pulleys, the Z stepper has a 20t pulley on it, which will give a full-step resolution of 0.005mm (more than I need, I may put a 40t pulley on the stepper)

One of the 3 leadscrews has virtually no runout/wobble, but the other 2 need some "adjustment" to get them closer to running true. It doesn't seem to wobble the whole carriage, but there is a slight, but noticeable, increase of resistance to the belt movement. So the plan is to take them out and then find out exactly where the bend is and attempt to straighten it out.


So next up is straightening out the 2 wobbly leadscrews, and then sorting out the bed-levelling arrangements and the mountings for the bed itself.

Stay tuned for the next update (but maybe don't hold your breath, LOL!!)
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Gallery / Re: Steampunk Brushless Motor Build
« Last post by philf on Today at 04:29:22 PM »
PhilF - it's an Andonstar adsm302. I think there are a couple of variants, one of which has a longer working distance. It's worth getting this one as is it gives plenty of room for the hot air gun.

David

Thanks David.
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Gallery / Re: Steampunk Brushless Motor Build
« Last post by David Cambridge on Today at 01:32:49 PM »
PhilF - it's an Andonstar adsm302. I think there are a couple of variants, one of which has a longer working distance. It's worth getting this one as is it gives plenty of room for the hot air gun.

David
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New from Old / Re: Resurrection of a CFEI 100 KVA Induction Furnace
« Last post by awemawson on Today at 12:41:35 PM »
I decided to give the door jambs a coat of varnish so that it can dry over night and be re-fitted in the morning. I was just starting when a desperate neighbour arrived needing his 'digging spoons' welded as one spade had completely broken off.

This delayed starting the wiring but I did get the 16 amp 3 phase socket for the water chiller fixed, wired in and tested - one more to do for the kiln.
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Gallery / Re: Steampunk Brushless Motor Build
« Last post by philf on Today at 11:20:35 AM »
Thanks David.

Brilliant project and super video.

Which Digital Microscope are you using? It looks excellent.

Cheers.

Phil.
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Gallery / Re: Steampunk Brushless Motor Build
« Last post by David Cambridge on Today at 09:19:35 AM »

re: the PCB holder.

It was something I bought. If you go to somewhere like Amazon or Ebay  and search for "Circuit Board Holder" there are plenty of them about.

David

P.S. Thanks Matthew
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Gallery / Re: Steampunk Brushless Motor Build
« Last post by mattinker on Today at 09:18:36 AM »
I enjoyed that!

Thanks, you just got yourself another subscriber!!

Cheers, Matthew.
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How to's / Re: trepan tool?
« Last post by WeldingRod on Today at 09:06:10 AM »
The fancy trepanning tools are run well below centerline, if I remember correctly, and the whole insert is slanted down a lot.  Very funny looking.  I didnt see any dig in issues, even on delrin.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

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New from Old / Re: Resurrection of a CFEI 100 KVA Induction Furnace
« Last post by awemawson on Today at 06:57:16 AM »
This morning I cut the pump house door jambs and temporarily mounted them to allow me to measure the door's final size. They will come off for varnishing in due course.

Now having the door final size I trimmed the planks to give me about 1/4" to plane to final size, glued and mounted them up in a pair of sash cramps and fitted the ledges to hold them flat.

I'll give the glue over night to set before any more work on them.

Meanwhile the 16 amp 3 phase sockets have arrived so I suppose that that's work for this afternoon sorted !
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