Bruder Manitou 2150 - RC conversion

[ddmckee54]

This is going to be a slow build.  I've got a boat-load of other projects going on, along with that 4 letter work that starts with "W" and sounds like werk.

I got the starting point of this project in the mail a couple of weeks ago, see first attachment.  I got it used off Ebay.  It's missing a few parts, but most of those parts would have been heavily modified anyway.  At $11 plus shipping I couldn't resist it.  The missing hood and door are available from Bruder as spare parts. as is the missing extendable part of the boom.  I'll probably order the door and hood, the rest of the missing parts I may try to 3D print.

I've been working on the 3D model of this thing, I'm nowhere as good as Joules, and not nearly as fast, but it's good enough to print the parts I'll need - see second attachment for 3D PDF.  I'm using Adobe Acrobat Reader DC version 2019.021.20056 to view this and it seems to work just fine for the 3D PDF.  I'm able  to manipulate the model and turn various parts on and off in the model tree.  I can see I'll need to change how I've got the components grouped together to make it a little more user-friendly in the PDF version.

I'm planning on working on the running gear first and get that operational.  The current plan is the print 3D replacement parts that are as close to the Bruder originals as possible.  I'll print the front and rear axles, the rear axle will be fixed to the lower half of the body and the front axle will pivot up and down to follow the ground contour, I think that's the way the real thing works too.  I'll keep the 4 wheel drive and 4 wheel steering as on the original.  I'm planning on using four N20 gearboxes at 100 RPM, one for each wheel.  That will give me a scaled top speed of about 16MPH, the real thing has a top speed of about 22 MPH so I'm close-ish.  The current plan is to 3D print inner rims that will allow me to adapt the N20 gearboxes to the Bruder wheels.  These motors only pull a couple hundred milli-amps at stall, so I should be able to run all 4 motors with one 10 amp brushed ESC, at least that's the plan.

One of the big problems with Bruder conversions is that they are too light in weight, being made of plastic and mostly air. I plan on adding weight to this model wherever I can, starting with the wheels.  I'm going to fill the empty space in the Bruder wheels with BB's and silicon.  I should get some added weight, and wheels that won't collapse under load.

If the "plan" turns to crap, well then I won't feel too guilty about it since I won't be out that much.  Mostly just my time, and I work cheap - when it's for myself.

Don

[WeldingRod]

Looks like good fun, and a nice model!
Was it designed to be RC, or just a nice show model?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

[WeldingRod]

Oh, you might just machine some steel doughnuts for the wheels if you want some real weight...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

[ddmckee54]

WeldingRod:

The Bruder line of "toys" were designed to be "sort of" detailed kids toys, in 1/16 scale.  They make reasonably well detailed models and are not too fragile.  The not TOO fragile part is a necessity to be kid-safe, they are also not too expensive.  I want to build a construction fleet, but I don't want to spend mega-bucks doing it.  I've got 7 vehicles in my fleet to be converted so far, and I'm still looking for more.  I don't think I've spent more than $250 so far.

Regarding the steel donuts in the wheels, I don't have anything that size, the tires have an outer diameter of about 84mm, or about 3.3", depending on which side of the pond you are on.  I do have a 3D printer and plenty of BB's.  Silicon caulk of various colors is fairly cheap.

There won't be much traditional machining in this build, mostly it will be amputating various bits of the original model and 3D printing replacement parts.

Right now I'm tearing down the original model and making the 3D model.  An accurate 3D model will help me determine what will fit where.  It also will tell me what, if anything, needs to be removed in order for it to fit.  It also lets me design the replacement 3D printed parts at the same time.

I made some more progress on the 3D model last night, see attachment.  I did some work on the upper body and on the fenders.  I still need to split the Body components into the Upper Body and the Lower Body.  That way you'll be able to turn then off to see the inside of the model, along with the various Bits and Bob as they are added.

I got ahead of myself on the fenders, the front and rear fenders are almost the same.  I copied and pasted them into place before I should have.  As I was quitting last night I realized that I hadn't completed the design of the lower part of the fender before I duplicated them.  Now I've basically got 4 times the work to do to correct  that issue.

Don

[ddmckee54]

I made some more progress on the 3D model, I fired my shop gnome and hired a shop elf.  I swear the elf looks just like the gnome did, but he gets a lot more done - Crueby swears there's a difference between the two and I believe him.  I tried firing the shop gnome last year but it didn't take, apparently all I had to do was use a bigger cannon.  With the elf's help I made what feels like significant progress on the model.  I think I've got the model tree organized a little better, using Adobe reader you can manipulate the model and turn parts on/off.  I've made a good start on the outriggers.  The outriggers pivot/drive units are identical front to back and the extendable outriggers themselves are all identical - that's why I only show one. And I'm starting to fill in the details on the upper half of the frame - it's not just a rectangular block anymore.  The new 3D PDF is attached, it's still a WIP so it'll get better.

I haven't said yet what I want to make functional by radio control on this model, here's my wish-list:
1) 4 wheel drive and 4 wheel steering with at least the front axle able to pivot to follow the ground contours.
2) Fully functional outriggers, extend/retract and raise/lower to level the unit.
3) Functional slew of the crane/telehandler body.  (I think of this thing more as a crane than a telehandler since it rotates.)
4) Raise-lower the boom.
5) Extend-retract the boom.  The real deal has 2 or 3 sections of the boom that can be extended.  I think the single movable section that Bruder has moving will be enough trouble for now.
6) Tilt the forks.
7) Working winch for the crane option.  I REAALLLY want this one since I always picture this as a crane.
8) Lights, I'd really like all the lights to be functional, but I'd settle for head and tail-lights that light up.

I got some more of the N20 gearboxes last week, up to this point everything has been theoretical with the 3D model, but I decided to print out the gearbox covers that I've got designed so far.  I found a couple of clearance issues between the covers and the gearboxes that I corrected in the model.  I don't know how I could read 4.25mm as 3.5mm, that was probably one of the measurements that the shop gnome took before he was fired.  Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

I also printed out a test version of one of the axles and the covers for the wheel gearmotor.  I found out that I needed to put in a line-up key between the upper and lower axle halves.  I didn't have that before and when I bolted the axle halves together, they would slip around a little.  Only about 0.5mm, but it was enough to irritate me.  I also decided that I need to add a counter-bore for the bolt heads, and pockets for the nuts to press into.  I need to modify the steering arm on the wheel gearmotor covers, extending it out a bit.  All 4 wheels will steer on this model and in it's current position the steering arm will not allow enough travel before the gearmotor cover would foul the steering tie-rod.  I'll also need to print out prototypes for the other replacement parts to see how well my 3D model matches reality.

I didn't take any pictures, these are all proof of concept prints that were done with leftover partial spools of PLA that I have laying around.  At this point I still consider these printed parts as completely disposable.  Once the parts fits are verified I'll print out the parts that will actually be used.  I know I'm not lucky enough, or skilled enough, to get the design right the first try.  At least this keeps me off the streets and out of trouble at night.

Don

[ddmckee54]

Hellooo...

Is there anybody out there, besides WeldingRod?  I feel like I'm talking to myself here and II do that enough in real life - talking to the smartest person in the room and all that.

I've currently got a 6 channel programmable rig that I could use for the controls, or an 8 channel that isn't programmable - let's assume the 6 channel.  Looking at my wish list, and comparing it to what's available for transmitter and receiver channels, I can see that I'm going to have to get creative on this thing, REAL creative.

For instance, if I was to use a dedicated channel for every function, the outriggers alone would require 8 channels.  I think I've got way to do pare that down to 2 channels, along with just using a single 10 amp ESC to drive all the gearmotors.

I'll replace one of the variable position auxiliary channels on the transmitter with a multi-position rotary switch, at least 5 position.  You can get them from Allied or Digi-Key in a variety of flavors, including some that have two center poles.  The transmitter switch, using fixed resistors between the positions, would allow me to change a servo in the model to several different FIXED positions.  I could use this servo to rotate a similar multi position rotary switch to known positions.  5 positions - counting the end-points, gives me 30° between positions.  By using a 120° servo, this just happens to match the angle between the positions on the rotary switch, it's like somebody planned it this way.  I'm planning on using a single 10 amp ESC to drive whatever is attached to this switch.  The two center poles on the rotary switch would allow me to switch both poles in all 5 positions.

I'm planning on attaching ALL 4 of the gearmotors that will be used to extend/retract the outriggers to one of the 5 positions.  They are teeny-tine little things, 7mmx16mm coreless motors, planetary gearboxes, and run at 200RPM.  These motors have a running current of less than 20mA, the switch is rated at 2A, and the ESC at 10A - so I should be able to get away with this.  This will ONLY allow me to extend/retract all 4 outriggers simultaneously, not accurate to full scale but I'll live with it.  I could then attach the 4 raise/lower gearmotors to the other 4 positions on the switch.  These are N20 Type 7 gearmotors.  The motors are a little bigger, but not much, they each draw about 60-80mA when running. This will let me raise/lower each outrigger independently to level the crane.  I'll have to do it one at a time, which probably isn't accurate to full scale, but again - I'll live with it.

OK, that's 2 channels down and we haven't moved this thing yet.    Each wheel will be driven by another N20 gearbox. All 4 will all be wired to the another 10A ESC and we're off to the races.  All 4 wheels are also linked together for 4 wheel steering.  Forward/reverse and Left/Right steering, that's 2 more channels down and now we've only got 2 left.

What's still on the wish-list: Slew crane, raise/lower boom, extend/retract boom, tilt forks up/down, raise/lower crane, and the lights - too much.  All right, the lights can be wired into the receiver power.  So that the lights are on whenever the receiver is on.  Not accurate to full scale, but SOME sort of working lights are better than NO working lights.

Hmmmm….  That leaves us with 5 motors that we want to control, and an already designed solution for a 5 position switch - now isn't that a coincidence?  Each of these motors can be run one at a time and then left in that position while moving something else.  I know it's not accurate to full scale, but it IS do-able.  And it won't cost me mega-bucks for a bazillion channel rig that would need at least 4 arms for accurate scale operation.

Now that I've got the gearmotors for the outriggers, I can start the 3D design for their covers and mounts.  Last night I got the re-design done on both of the N20 gearmotor types, the standard and the Type 7.  I also got the axle modifications done last night.  It was too late to try printing them out before I went to bed - so I'll try printing them tonight.

That's enough for today, tomorrow I might even be able to provide some pretty pictures.

Don

[millwright]

Following this Don, as an rc car builder and racer I have an interest in your project, just hope you have enough room in there for all the motors and switchgear. Waiting to see the pictures. carry on posting others are reading as well.

John

[Will_D]

Following this with interest, just that I don't have anything to add!!
 

[Joules]

Likewise, if its got 3D printing I'm watching the thread.  Oh, and talking to yourself comes with the territory.

[WeldingRod]

Do you have any on/off signals? 
You could set the legs up to go to fixed positions one at a time.  Or, if your insanity knob is broken off, you could make it self leveling ;-)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

[ddmckee54]

I know a lot of people have trouble opening my 3D PDF's, so I know I've got to get a handle on adding pictures to a thread.  I know there's a sticky on this site somewhere that'll tell me how to do that, just have to find it.  I'd recommend opening the 3D PDF if you can.  You can do some  pretty cool stuff with the 3D PDF using the Adobe reader, manipulate  the viewing angle, turn bits on and off to see what's behind or under them, and today I found out you can change the model rendering and lighting.

For those of you that can't open the 3D PDF, I'm working on saving different views of the model as a JPEG, which I will add to the thread, when I figure out how to do that.

WeldingRod:
My insanity knob isn't broken off - at least not yet.  I've been wondering about using an Arduino, or several of them, to control this thing.  The RC Tractor Guy has done AMAZING things with 1/32 scale die-cast tractor models using Arduinos and his own custom built control system.  But that's a whole 'nother can'o'worms that I'm not ready to kick over quite yet.

Hopefully back in a bit wiff some pix,
Don 

[ddmckee54]

This is a test, I want to see where it puts this when I insert it in the thread. That way I know what to allow for when referring to the images.  Hopefully it shows up.

[ddmckee54]

Well, since all I've got is a damned box with an X in it, I've got to back to school and figure out what I did wrong.

[ddmckee54]

Well the first try was definitely underwhelming.  I made an album in Google Photos called Bruder Manitou 2150 and added 2 JPEG files to it.  They showed up in the album, but when a added the link to one of those images we got the dreaded Black box nolinkum seen above.  When I look for the tutorial on adding images to threads I can find that Divided head made one, but either I don't have permission to view it, or it's not here anymore.

I got to wondering if the album I created was a private album.  To test this theory I created a shared album called Bruder Manitou 2150 and uploaded the same 2 images to it.  We are about to put that theory to the test.

[ddmckee54]

Well, that test was also un-inspiring.

Can I not use Google Photos?  Do I need to use some other 3rd party for image storage?

Can somebody please explain to me in small words of 2 syllables or less, grunts and smacks to the head are perfectly acceptable, how to post a photo/image in a thread?

Or maybe tell me where I get a copy of "Posting Photos in MaddModder Threads for DUMMIES"?

I've been working with these high speed morons called computers for 40 years, and they're STILL smarter than me.  Those programmers are devious people, I ought to know, I were one.

Don

[Joules]

Don, I attach photos in my post.  I used to embed them using photobucket, but that went tits up and ruined lots of my threads.  The attachment button below is used to attach upto 10 photos at the end of your post, so I name each one and refer to it in the post.   Not as nice as embedded photos, but safer to have them here on forum storage.

Hope that helps, posting 800x600 jpeg seems to be a good size these days.

[sorveltaja]

Don I'm not a specialist, just plain ordinary computer user, but don't the internet service providers on that side of the pond offer an option to host your own pictures/files?

In the past, I used Photobucket, but something went wrong with it, and most, if not all of the links to the pictures didn't work anymore. I don't remember, how temporary it was, but I remember, that a lot of photobucket users were upset by that.

Of course there is also a chance for that to happen for a local ISP. Computers here and there and everywhere...

Without knowing much about it, I wonder, why the Google Photos don't work. A company that big should have an endless resources to make their services easy to access for the end user.

I'll bet they also have a lot of 'terms of uses', which are changed many times in a year.

Perhaps the problem, that you have, has something to do with privacy(or who knows what) settings in Google Photos?

[ddmckee54]

Embed, that's the word I was looking for - thanks for reminding me.  Until somebody can clue me into a REALLY simple way of embedding images in a thread, I'll attach them.  I'm pretty sure I can do that.

The first attachment will be the overall view of the 3D model.  In this view I've changed the model's rendering to 3D Outline.  I think it makes it a little easier to see the individual parts of the model like this.

The second attachment shows the outriggers and the various Bits and Bob associated with them, also rendered in the 3D Outline format.  Most of what you're looking at in the 2nd attachment will be 3D printed.  The outrigger housing, re red part at the bottom is roughly 15mm wide by 20mm tall and about 120mm long.  The extendable outrigger, the black part on the right, is about 135mm long overall and will extend about 110mm.  The outrigger will pivot from the red block on the left.

The blue rectangle at the top is the cover for the N20 Type 7 gearmotor that will turn the screw to lower and raise the outrigger.  I've printed test examples of the covers, found Boo-Boos, and hopefully fixed same.  The entire gearmotor, with covers, will fit in a space that's 12x25x25mm.    Other people have used these gearmotors in linear actuators that seem to be handling higher loads, so I'm hoping that these will work out.  The hole that runs through the gearbox covers is for the M3 bolt that will be the pivot for the ram.  I'm a little concerned with these covers only being 1mm thick. but that's all the room I had.  Time will tell if these covers will handle the loads.  I'm not going to be lifting tons, just ounces, so I THINK I'll be OK.

The yellow part below the gearmotor is the "cylinder" of the ram.  This will be a piece of 5/16" brass tubing that will be fastened to the gearmotor's output shaft by a set screw, a grub screw if you're from the other side of the pond.  The other end of the cylinder will be threaded M3 to fit the threaded rod that will be the "piston" of this ram - the piston will be fixed.  I know, I know, the cylinder is spinning and the piston is fixed - so sue me.  I'm pretty sure that the crankshaft for the LeRhone rotary was fixed to the firewall and it worked fairly well.  I'm not the first one to get things backwards.  Back on subject, the Bruder outrigger rams move about 20mm, I've got about 25mm of travel in what I've designed.

That's enough for today, tomorrow - the axles!
Don

[ddmckee54]

I know that I said today would be the axles...  Well I lied may have stretched the truth a little.  I WAS going to print out the updated axle last night, but by the time I got all the modifications to the gearmotor covers done it was late enough that I'd have had to leave the printer on all night.  It would only need to run an hour or so after I went to bed, wasn't worth it.

I did get a little accomplished, and I can prove it.  I've got pictures so it DID happen.  I'm attaching several pictures:
1) The first attachment is all 4 gearmotor covers on the printer when it got done printing.
2) The second attachment is the gearmotor covers for what will be one of the 4 wheelmotors.
3) The third attachment is all the parts for the wheelmotor, along with a penny for a size reference.
4) The fourth attachment is the wheelmotor hiding behind a penny.
5) The fifth attachment shows how the Type 7 gearmotor fits in the cover, along with a quarter for a size reference.  It almost fit like a glove.  I've got to figure out why the pivot hole in one half of the cover fit properly while the other side was too tight.  I know that the picture is badly washed out - sue me, I'm an engineer not a photographer.
6) The last attachment shows the ram motor trying to hide behind that same quarter, and almost succeeding.

I modified the covers for both the wheel gearmotor, and the ram gearmotor.  I was concerned about how thin the covers were. in some areas the covers are only 1mm thick.  I had plenty of room around the gearmotor for the wheel, so I increased the sidewall thickness to 1.5mm and I increased the top and bottom thickness to 2mm.  The top and bottom is where to joint with the king-pin is located.  I also radiused that joint, don't want any stress-risers at that corner now do we?

The Type 7 covers are also only 1mm thick, over the motor and in other parts of the gearbox, but I absolutely cannot increase this.  The motor is 10mm across the flats.  I allowed 0.25mm clearance on both sides of the motor - because FDM printers can get a little sloppy.  When you add 1mm on each side of the motor to that 10.5mm total, you're at 12.5mm.  I've got 13mm of space that I can fit this assembly into - JUST fit it into.  From the fifth attachment you can see that I've got NO room inside the cover to add any material.  I know if I got an SLA printer that I could get away with tighter tolerances, but that is another can of worms that I am NOT going to kick over at this time.  Worst case, I just print out replacement covers if/when they break.

Maybe Monday the axles.
Don

[ddmckee54]

I made some progress over the weekend, this was the first Thanksgiving in several years that I wasn't involved in a shutdown project or two at work.  Anyway, between laundry, cleaning and the other day to day necessities at home, I got a fair amount of prototyping accomplished.  I now have usable 3D models for most of the printed replacement parts that I need to make to convert the lower non-rotating part of the Bruder Manitou 2150 frame to radio control.  I didn't take any pictures yet, these are prototype parts to test for fit and interference, and in most they will not be used on the actual model.  I printed most of these parts using left over partial rolls of PLA from other projects.  I will reprint the correct amount of these parts in the appropriate color for use on the model.  I was going to include a list of the parts I had test printed, but since I don't have pictures that would be  worthless.  I think I'll take some pictures tonight to go with the list tomorrow. 

I did model the front and rear steering servos and an 8 channel receiver.  The receiver sits under the engine cover.  At first I will be using a 6 channel receiver which will probably allow me to use the original Bruder "engine cover".  I do also have an 8 channel receiver which will not fit under the Bruder engine.  It's too wide  to fit in the engine compartment when laying on its' back, and when turned on its' side, it's too tall to fit under the original cover.  I have designed and test fitted a replacement cover that will work, but is very ugly - good thing the engine hood will hide it.

The next step is designing the switching assemblies that will allow me to control 10 functions with 4 channels. One of these switch assemblies will allow me independent control of these functions:
1) Extend/retract all 4 outrigger arms simultaneously.
2) Raise/lower the Left front outrigger.
3) Raise/lower the Right front outrigger.
4) Raise/lower the Left rear outrigger.
5) Raise/lower the Right rear outrigger.

The other of these switch assemblies will allow me independent control of these functions:
1) Left/Right slew of the boom assembly.
2) Raise/lower the boom.
3) Extend/retract the boom.
4) Tilt the forks Up/down.
5) Raise/lower the cable when the forks are replaced with the crane winch.

I won't be able run more than two of those functions simultaneously, one from each set of five, but I can live with that.  I'm not that good at multi-tasking anyway.

I've found a likely candidate for the multi-position switch in my Allied catalog.  It's less that $20 each, so it won't break the bank either.  I'll need four of these things, two for the transmitter, and two on the model.

I was going to list out the parts that I have printed and the parts that I need to design yet, but I think I'll take some crappy pictures tonight so I can show you what I've got.  After all... If you ain't got pictures it didn't never happen - right?

Don

[ddmckee54]

OK, I took a BUNCH of crappy pictures, threw the worst away and still have 15-20-ish.  Since I can only attach a limited number to each post, I'll break this up into 3 posts.

This post will cover the main frame of the beast and a little more.  The first attachment, Manitou 2150 001, shows the main frame of the model, this is split into the upper and lower frame.  The upper frame is about 30mm deep and the lower frame is about 24mm deep.  The second attachment shows the lower part of the frame.  You are looking at the engine side of the frame, and this would be on the operators right side when the cab is facing the front of the machine.  This is about 330mm long, about 55-60mm-ish wide, and 24mm deep.  The top part of the frame, because of the overhangs that support  the outriggers, is about 50-60mm longer than the lower frame.  That's a quarter for size reference.

The third attachment shows the front of the Bruder wheel.  It's a fairly well detailed wheel, on this side.  The next attachment, Manitou 2150 005 shows the back side of the wheel, my 3D printed "Inner Rim", and a quarter for size reference.  As you can see the detail on the back side of the wheel is not QUITE as good as the front.  You can also see that the wheels are hollow.  Bruder RC conversions are notorious for being "light-weight's", that's why I intend to fill the empty space between my printed inner rim and the shell of the tire with BB's and silicon seal.  That should add a significant amount of weight, and put the weight where the model doesn't actually have to carry it. The next attachment shows the assembled Bruder wheel and printed inner rim.  It's standing proud of the tire because the 6 ribs in the center of the wheel still need to be removed.  The quarter is still there for size reference.

The next attachment, Manitou 2150 008, is the two parts of the gearmotor cover that turn this into a wheelmotor.  You can see the kingpin sticking up from the part on the left, the part on the right shows the cavity printed for the gearmotor.  The gearmotor is a 6 volt 100 Rpm gearmotor which will give me a scale speed of about 16 mph.  You can also see the holes for the 2mm bolts that will hold these parts together.  The two nearest the center will hold the covers together, while the other will be the attachment point for the tie-rod.  The next attachment shows the assembled wheelmotor and the hub that will adapt it to the wheel.  The last attachment shows the wheelmotor and the assembled axle.  Both the front and rear axles will be identical.  The front axle will pivot while the rear axle will be bolted solidly to the frame.

That's enough for this post,
Don

[ddmckee54]

This post is the second in a series to three that show the modifications required for my RC conversion of the Bruder Manitou 2150 Rotating Telehandler.  This post will cover the modifications required to add my 3D printed axles to the original model.

The first attachment, Manitou 2150 014, shows the front of the lower frame.  You can tell it's the front because of the chamfer seen in the lower right of the frame, the rear does not have this chamfer.  This picture shows the front portion of the lower frame, you can see the molded in portion of the front axle sticking out.  About 16-17mm of the lower frame will be removed, including the lower front axle.  In the picture you can see the 3D printed part that will be used to bridge the front and main parts of the lower frame back together.  There will be four M3 bolts that hold these parts together.  The next attachment, Manitou 2150 023, shows the drilling guide that I have printed out to allow me to get these holes in the proper locations. Attachment 015, I'm not going to bother typing the Manitou 2150 anymore, shows the 3D printed part for bridging the lower frame main and rear parts together.  The 3D printed parts are sitting too high because I still need to cut the molded in ribs down to 3-4mm.  Then all will be  right with the world, at least with my little part of it.

Attachment 016 shows the 3D printed cover I made to hide the receiver.  I THOUHT that this one was a keeper, I was wrong.  Last night was the first time I've had both the upper and lower parts of the frame together for a while.  I've been working on this 3D model for a while and have been modeling the inside of one or the other for a couple of weeks.  If you look at the left rear part of my 3D printed part, you'll see two slots in the Bruder lower frame.  These slots are about 3mm wide and 6-8mm deep, forming a tab in the middle.  A molded in box on the upper frame fits over this tab, guess what I didn't allow for?  Yup you got it in one, this 3D printed part is junk.  I need to put a notch in the modeled part and re-print the stinkin' thing.

OK, that's it for this post.  The next one will deal with the outriggers and their attaching points.

Don

[ddmckee54]

We're almost done for the day, just the outriggers left.  But this is where it starts to get interesting, at least I think it does.

Attachment 017 shows the front of the upper frame, it's got the grill in it and the rear doesn't have the grill.  Other than the grill, the front and rear outrigger mounts are mirror images of each other.  The three parts sticking up are the outrigger ram pivots.  There should be four, but one was broken off when I got it - that's why I got this thing cheap.  Most of the sticky-up and out bits will need to be amputated anyway, so that pivot being busted off is OK.

Attachment 018 shows my 3D printed outrigger replacement parts prototypes, at least the latest versions.  I went through several iterations of just the outrigger before I got a version that I was happy with.  It's funny, a part can look just fine on the screen, but when you actually print it out you realize that either A) it looks like crap, or B) it's WAY to thin to survive for very long.

The rectangular bit just to the left of the clamp is the gearmotor that will drive the screw that will raise/lower the outrigger.  This motor is a 6 volt 100 Rpm Type 7 gearmotor which, using a portion of M3 threaded rod for the screw, will let me fully raise or lower the outrigger in about 30 seconds.  There is one of screw rams for each outrigger.  The black bit on the right hand side is the gearmotor that will drive the screw to extend/retract the outrigger arm. 

Attachment 022 shows  the outrigger arm in its' fully extended position.  The gearmotor driving the outrigger arm screw is a 6V 200 Rpm gearmotor.  The screw will again be a portion of M3x0.5 threaded rod with a total length of about 120-125mm, and a usable length of about 100-110mm.  If I'm doing the math right it should take about 30 seconds to fully retract or extend the outriggers.

Thus endth the rant for the day,
Don

[ddmckee54]

Somebody say something, I feel like I'm talking to myself here.  Which is sort of OK, at least I'm used to it.

I didn't build anything last night, but I did order a couple of things.  I ordered some translucent red filament that looks like it will be a closer match to the Bruder red plastic than the solid red filament that I've been using.  I also ordered some silver colored filament, we'll see how close of a match it is to the Bruder plastic.

And lastly I ordered a couple of 12 circuit slip rings, I need one for the Manitou and one for the Liebherr crane I got in my pile stash of future projects.  The 12 circuits will allow me to run everything I want to and still leave me with plenty of spare circuits for lights and a couple of servo channels - if I want to do that.  They are only 2 amp slip rings so I've got to watch how much load I put on them.

Don

[kayzed1]

Well i like it a lot, i have been considering getting all the hydraulic kit to do a big digger dozzer for one of the Great grand kiddies.. Plus i get time to play Eer! i mean iron out the snags