Mounting solution (small ring & mill)

[rvt]

I'm using a micro-mill, the table is around 200x90 (mm) with three grooves. I'm currently using a small claming kit. I'm drilling/countersinking/counterboring into small rings, generally 65mm in diameter (max) and down to 42mm minimum diameter. These are generally 4-8 holes, which need to be countersunk or counterbored. The rings are only 1-3.5 mm max in depth, usually, and they're almost always aluminium. In order to get things lined up correctly, it can take quite a while. I have to adjust the clamps and move things around each time usually.

If I have projects where I need to do over ten of these (as well as lots of other related work) it's just very time consuming, and I generally end up breaking it up (time wise) when I believe it could all be done in one go with the correct mounting.

I've thought about a rotary table & chuck, however, I do not believe I would be able to grip the rings well enough without warping them. What do you think?

I thought about a larger table, without a chuck, and just using clamps, but I just don't think that is possible.

Is there another solution that I've not thought of?

Thanks for any advise

[jim]

sounds like a rotary table with a chuck (soft jaws bored to the size you need) and a "bung" to go in the centre would work.

the bung will allow you to hold the ring firm without squashing it, its what we do all the time at work!

[rvt]

Hi Jim, Thanks for your thoughts! Do you have any photos of this so I have a better idea of how I'd set it up myself?

[crabsign69]

how about some pics of what it is your drilling ect would be nice so to see exactly what your trying to do.
please

[rvt]

Okay, I will try, but I'm not working on anything right now so don't have anything to hand. It's pretty simple though, just a ring as described that needs to be clamped and unclamped all the time to move to the next drilling point. I will see what I can find tomorrow as an example

[Chazz]

Check this out as to how to hold and drill several 'rings', hope this helps. http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3429.0

Cheers,
Chazz

[sbwhart]

This is about 65mm dia and 5mm thick about the size you're doing,



This sounds like a commercial production run.

For the thinner sizes you can fasten them to a wooden backing board using two way tape, plenty good enough for drilling.

I'll send you the bill for my consultancy fee.

Stew

[Lew_Merrick_PE]

If cost is more of an "item" than anything else, a pair of plates with a central pivot pin (shoulder screws work well) and appropriate alignment pin (dowel pins are what I use) clocked to your position makes a quick & dirty alternative that can be quite accurate.  If you have access to a lathe of appropriate size, you could turn your pivot plate with a shoulder to mount your rings.  If you have a DRO or Trav-A-Dial, it's even easier.

One of the "accessories" I make for my rotary table is keys that fit the t-slots on it.  If all I am doing is drilling/reaming (etc.) holes, I can mount keys is with (small) dowel pins and a screw to make a "T" on the plate, mount that on my rotary table, and spin as required.  The keys are just steel bar dressed to width with screw & dowel pin holes set at some convenient (and hard to forget) spacing.  For my (8" and 10") rotary tables, I use .400 centers for (2) ø.188 dowel pins and (1) hole for a #10-24 SHCS.  I can then cut them off (1.100 long) and have them "to hand" whenever I need them.

[raynerd]

Stew

Stew, that setup on an X2 only gives me about 1cm clearance!!    Sorry     Much to my frustration!

[HS93]

that set up on my X1 would give me -5cm   I bought a realy nice 4" Rotary Table with a Chuck and Backplate which a few traders where linking to the X1 unfortunatley all I  can use it for are very thin pieces that req small short drills using on it.   http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Accessories

peter